Can someone please help me find this type of leather jacket?

[El Marro]

Why not go for it? You have the drawing, and you can send the extra info. You will never be guaranteed 100% accuracy, so don't expect it. But you will end up with a jacket very close to what you want.

You seem to be overthinking everything, so getting your feet wet with a first custom order might just be what you need.

I agree with red devil here, it seems a shame to put this much time and work into this and then stop short at the very end. No matter what you order for you first custom jacket there is almost certain to be a little disappointment because you have put so much thought and anticipation into receiving the “perfect” jacket. In time you will come to realize there is no such thing and that is when it becomes fun again. I say go for it!

 

[Formeruser012524]

I agree with red devil here, it seems a shame to put this much time and work into this and then stop short at the very end. No matter what you order for you first custom jacket there is almost certain to be a little disappointment because you have put so much thought and anticipation into receiving the “perfect” jacket. In time you will come to realize there is no such thing and that is when it becomes fun again. I say go for it!

Damn guys, you are really going to make me seriously consider this. Ah...

But there is one major problem: Since the creator of the drawing does not wish to communicate with me any longer even though I profusely apologized for everything I messed up, I have no idea if he'd be against me sharing the drawing in this public thread with others for additional input, or, if I decide to compile the final PDF to submit for production... to simply post it here for everyone to see and provide some insight.

That is, indeed, a major issue. Is it not? I mean I have no way of knowing if the person I paid for the drawing would be totally against me posting it right here, since he does not reply to me even after three pages of apologies.

But then again, on the other hand, it is something I paid for... it would be a bit weird for the person to take issue? I don't know. You guys have 1000x more experience in this, so... how likely is it for that person to be offended if I shared the drawing and/or my final PDF? I simply do not want to offend him any further.

 

[El Marro]

I would take this persons silence as an indication that they do not wish to participate any longer, not that you are forbidden from using or showing their drawing. I also think it is perhaps time to take the drawing as it stands and all of your notes and measurements and submit them to 5 Star for production. You have reached the point where it is time to build the jacket and see if it is what you are imagining.
At that point fit and design issues can be further modified using the jacket as a reference point. That’s what I think anyway.

 

[ton312]

In other words….

 

[JMax]

You just have to decide. Go for it. You’ve done more planning than most. No such thing as perfection. You should come close. If not, then go for it again…or don’t. That’s the rabbit hole point.

 

[Formeruser012524]

Update:

1.) I took your advice. While the forum was down, I finalized the PDF-File (took me a long time) and sent it to Five* for production. The goal is to first get a prototype test-jacket from non-leather material to see if adjustments should be made, before the final product gets created. Shawn said, I quote: "It will be done with Honor and Pleasure. So don't worry".

2.) In the meantime, the person in question, who did the drawing (whom I greatly respect) also began communicating with me again, although non-project related. There were primarily other reasons they did not communicate, meaning there is no animosity between us, for which I'm glad.

Now, thinking back, it's good this thread didn't get deleted or closed after all! Thank you for your advice and motivating me not to stop after getting this close.

 

[Formeruser012524]

"please God just let this end"

Simple but helpful advice:

Ignore this thread as if it doesn't exist, and your issues shall be resolved.

Best wishes.

 

[red devil]

Update:

1.) I took your advice. While the forum was down, I finalized the PDF-File (took me a long time) and sent it to Five* for production. The goal is to first get a prototype test-jacket from non-leather material to see if adjustments should be made, before the final product gets created. Shawn said, I quote: "It will be done with Honor and Pleasure. So don't worry".

2.) In the meantime, the person in question, who did the drawing (whom I greatly respect) also began communicating with me again, although non-project related. There were primarily other reasons they did not communicate, meaning there is no animosity between us, for which I'm glad.

Now, thinking back, it's good this thread didn't get deleted or closed after all! Thank you for your advice and motivating me not to stop after getting this close.

Good to hear you went for it, I was going to write a message about how you were at the edge of the pool and just needed to jump... you jumped, good. The water might be colder than you expect, but that is fine.

My advice is to now forget about the jacket and focus on something else. When the prototype is done, you can get back into it. You have already done more thinking and planning than most of us as @JMax said. So let the professionals handle your case for now.

 

[Formeruser012524]

Good to hear you went for it, I was going to write a message about how you were at the edge of the pool and just needed to jump... you jumped, good. The water might be colder than you expect, but that is fine.

My advice is to now forget about the jacket and focus on something else. When the prototype is done, you can get back into it. You have already done more thinking and planning than most of us as @JMax said. So let the professionals handle your case for now.

Thanks. I agree with you to stop thinking about it temporarily, because at this point it's not up to me how the test version turns out, but I didn't know this stuff is so addictive. For example, I'm now looking at various vintage stuff (other leather jacket styles) that I might order. And I also have some other pieces of clothing (not just jackets) in the back of my head that I might want to reproduce... but maybe in a year or so, lol.

 

[red devil]

Thanks. I agree with you to stop thinking about it temporarily, because at this point it's not up to me how the test version turns out, but I didn't know this stuff is so addictive. For example, I'm now looking at various vintage stuff (other leather jacket styles) that I might order. And I also have some other pieces of clothing (not just jackets) in the back of my head that I might want to reproduce... but maybe in a year or so, lol.

Yes, it is addictive and this is the fun part! I never stopped at the first project lol

 

[Formeruser012524]

Update:

It took quite a while, lots of time, patience and effort, but the pattern by FiveStar is finished. Jacket is now going into production.

Several points...

1.) During the pattern creation there were lots of questions, but Shawn said this is normal with any jacket, not just mine. There were also issues on my side that I needed to fix / clarify. He said even though this jacket is indeed unusual, they have worked on much more complex jackets, including PDF files of up to 100 pages.

2.) Shawn appears extremely (!) professional and also very kind.

3.) Communication was quite good, although it is sometimes difficult to reach him because he is very, very busy, but despite that we have talked many times on the phone as well as exchanged E-Mails and WhatsApp messages. The different time zones (Germany vs. Pakistan) also play a role when it comes to communication. Aside from that, sometimes when I'm at work, he's available to talk, or the other way around.

4.) He told me I should expect some great results, and not to worry at this point at all.

5.) We have both decided to ditch the idea of a cheaper fabric prototype, because it would not save me much money, and the fabric, whatever is used, cannot emulate/imitate the behavior of leather that well. So the first jacket will be in leather, as close to the original as possible, basically an attempt to make the first jacket the final jacket. A second one, if adjustments are needed at all (there probably will be, I assume), will of course also be leather. But I get to keep the first version too, of course.

That's it for now.

Thank you all for motivating me to keep going with this, or else I would've stopped a few weeks ago.

 

[Formeruser012524]

Update - project completed:

My first post was on Dec 13, 2021. Today I'm proudly posting an update that my jacket by Five* has FINALLY been completed (!) and will be in my hands soon, perhaps even by Saturday if I'm lucky.

Prior to posting the images below (sent to me by Five*), there are several comments, or ten points to be made. So here comes really lots of text below, before we get to the pictures. Although you are of course free to skip the whole text and just go to the pictures.

1.) A huge thank you not only to the Fedora Lounge in general, but specifically forum member Monitor who created the drawing which has ultimately helped me create the initial PDF file (and many more after that), as it was his impressive work on the drawing that has led to the jacket's creation. Him and I had some disagreements near the finalization of the drawing - which was entirely my fault - but those issues have been resolved shortly afterwards, and we have a great communication now. The pictures I am posting in this thread I have already showed him privately per E-Mail, and well... if he wishes he can tell you what he told me after seeing them... or at least a version of it.

2.) I greatly appreciate the decisions of the administration and/or moderator team who have cleaned up the thread by removing some of the ridicule in it. You know who you are.

3.) Thank you all who prevented me from giving up. I was about to completely drop the project and many of you guys motivated me to continue, and it finally paid off. Interestingly enough, there was also a post that (unintentionally) had a strong motivating impact on me, from a particular member who, after I said I am going to drop this and that I feel this thread should be deleted, mentioned that this thread "must remain" to serve as a "prime example". He obviously did not intend to motivate me, but actually achieved the opposite effect and made me really go for it. So thank you, you know who you are as well.

4.) The jacket itself was MUCH more complex than we had initially thought. Monitor and I were able to figure out some things that were completely missed during the initial analyzing on this forum. For example, when watching the relevant scenes, blink for less than a second during some parts and you'll miss those details. The jacket has an extremely unusual and perhaps even completely unseen of the "Epaulette" shoulder part. As most of you (and all leather jacket fans) know, in a regular jacket with such a feature, this is a leather layer that goes from the shoulder up to the collar, and has the "X" seams in squares. On this particular jacket however, the Epaulette is only used to "fasten" the semi-full action back, so that the shoulder gussets can only be raised "below" that square. Very unusual, but Monitor figured it out, and Five* made it into reality. It basically prevents the shoulder gussets from being raised at the beginning. And speaking of shoulder gussets (or back pleats), unlike on a G-1 jacket, they do not extend completely down to the kidney panel on this one, but end slightly above it. Another interesting feature is not only the lack of a real mid-panel, but also the difference in height between the kidney panel seam and the seam that is running through the front pockets. Really, a very unusual jacket, to say the least, yet Monitor was able to make sense of all of it, and Shawn from Five* made it happen.

5.) Communication with Five* was superb. Shawn is more than just a professional. He is very kind and makes sure your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. We communicated for hours basically, if you add everything together, via phone calls, WhatsApp messages, and also Video Calls. I also saw my jacket worn on a real person approximately my height on a video call today. In other words, the service is outstanding.

6.) The jacket is 1,3 mm steerhide, originally a deep seal brown which has then been custom distressed, but not an overboard extreme distressed look. It is pretty much how I wanted it to look. Regarding thickness, I initially wanted 1,0 to maximum 1,1 mm, but Shawn kept insisting that choosing 1,3 mm of a soft / non-stiff steerhide type was the best way to go, and I listened to him. For inner lining I chose their "very high quality 100% cotton" version, in plain beige color without any lines/shapes. I also added two inside pockets, one with a small zipper, and the other without any closure method.

7.) I did not get the "YKK size #10" zipper because it would have taken some additional days for the jacket to be finalized, so I told Shawn to use another zipper. He used another very high quality one. It's high quality was also confirmed by Monitor as well.

8.) Creating this first jacket took longer, not only because it's unusual, but more because it's the "first" of this type that has he created. It took a long time of back and forth communication to create a pattern, then make adjustments, then triple-check certain aspects, getting feedback from his team, then checking back with me, and so on and so forth. The best advice I can give to anyone dealing with Five* or any custom maker is to be absolutely as specific as possible regarding everything you can think of. Because anything you leave up to them to decide, leads to a higher chance of that particular element turning out not the way you hoped. So specificity is the key, and double if not triple or even quadruple-checking your most critical measurements. In my PDF file I even had specific tolerances, some "plus/minus", some "plus only", and others "minus only", as low as 0,5 cm in several areas. The more specific you are, the better results you will get... but only IF you've done your research right, or in my case, if you had someone do most (if not all) of the research for you, like forum member Monitor.

9.) Now if I want to get a second jacket like this one with some adjustments, whether it's different measurements, some design differences, different color, or all of the above, it would be - according to Shawn - basically a piece of cake, fairly quickly made, and would not cost me much at all. Because it's always the first jacket that is the problematic/challenging one.

10.) And speaking of which, I have already decided now, even before getting this jacket in my hands and wearing it, that I will most definitely order a second version of it with some minor differences and a different color, just so that I have two variations of my favorite jacket. Maybe it sounds insane, but yeah, I'm just being honest.

Right below here are the (17 different) photos... so please feel free to give me your thoughts. But while analyzing them, also keep in mind that 100% accuracy is nearly if not definitely impossible to achieve, especially with a mystery jacket no one can find anywhere, where most of the measurements and determinations were based on screenshots in weird positions, plus checking out other ("somewhat" similar) jackets and making educated guesses regarding dimensions and functionality elements. But despite not having 100% accuracy... words cannot express how satisfied I am with how this turned out. And the second version will be fun to do as well. I also have a totally different project in mind with Five* for the future, but that would come after summer, and there would be a separate thread for it, if any thread at all.

Finally, the photos begin now...

 

[Aloysius]

This looks truly beautifully made.

I have my own ridiculous costumey product in mind for Five Star at some point.

 

[Formeruser012524]

I have my own ridiculous costumey product in mind for Five Star at some point.

Not everyone needs a ridiculous costume in order to be/appear absolutely ridiculous.

That's a fact.

 

[Aloysius]

Not everyone needs a ridiculous costume in order to be/appear absolutely ridiculous.

That's a fact.

I realize now that you're hell-bent on attacking me, but my own post there wasn't sarcastic either. What I have in mind is ridiculous. But if it's done right it could be a lot of fun.

 

[Formeruser012524]

I realize now that you're hell-bent on attacking me, but my own post there wasn't sarcastic either. What I have in mind is ridiculous. But if it's done right it could be a lot of fun.

OK, cool, that's awesome. Please open your thread about your project when you are ready to work on it.

As for myself, I too will be replicating some of Kanye West's oversized leather jackets in the future as well. I might post threads about it in the future. If so, I hope you (and some other folks, you know who you are) won't freak out about it.

Be as it may, none of that discussion belongs in this particular thread, because this is about one jacket, and similar jackets, but quite specifically one particular project that went through a long journey and ended positively. So yeah... it's awesome you want to create costumes. Maybe Batman or Spiderman would be good options? Regardless, open your thread(s) when you're ready, and I'm sure you will get help from other members with suggestions and drawings. Although I'm not sure if Five* does such costumes, you will surely find other persons/companies that can assist.

Best wishes.

 

[Marc mndt]

It does look extremely well made and the leather looks beautiful. One thing I notice though is that the overall dimensions seem to be quite different from the original. As you can see in the pic on the lower left the original has those droopy shoulders which were typical for the late 80s / early 90s. From the shoulders down to the bottom hem of the body the jacket actually shows somewhat of a v shape (the shoulders are wider than the bottom hem).

The shoulders on the repro seem to follow the natural shoulder (they're much more narrow) and the body looks to be much wider than the shoulder. I could be wrong though, it's difficult to assess with the jacket laying flat. Do you have pics of Shawn wearing the jacket? What's the weight of the jacket? That much steerhide must weigh a ton.

 

[Formeruser012524]

It does look extremely well made and the leather looks beautiful. One thing I notice though is that the overall dimensions seem to be quite different from the original. As you can see in the pic on the lower left the original has those droopy shoulders which were typical for the late 80s / early 90s. From the shoulders down to the bottom hem of the body the jacket actually shows somewhat of a v shape (the shoulders are wider than the bottom hem).

The shoulders on the repro seem to follow the natural shoulder (they're much more narrow) and the body looks to be much wider than the shoulder. I could be wrong though, it's difficult to assess with the jacket laying flat. Do you have pics of Shawn wearing the jacket? What's the weight of the jacket? That much steerhide must weigh a ton.

View attachment 406150

Thank you very much. It is indeed hard to assess based on a jacket laying flat on a table. On the other hand, like I said in one of the points, we did the best we could based on several images. Even 90% accuracy is difficult when you don't have enough information, but I have seen the jacket worn by someone my size (and the actor's size) on a video call, and it looked fine in many ways. Of course it can never be an exact replica. And yes... it wears about 5 kg LOL. (serious)

 

[JMax]

It really looks like 5* hit it outta the park for you. Nice enough to get you a date with Scully.

 

[Guppy]

Trying on will really be the test. If you're happy with it and your goals were met, that's what matters, not anyone else's opinion. So enjoy your new jacket, and wear it in good health.