Can someone please help me find this type of leather jacket?

[Guppy]

Is there a big difference between Cowhide and Steerhide? Because the Indiana Jones Replica I posted earlier in this thread, which in terms of color and "surface" almost exactly resembled the original jacket, is actually Steerhide according to the website.

Thoughts? Or would this be insignificant?

There's not much difference. They're both bovine leather, same species of animal. Bulls might have slightly thicker skin than cows, but it gets split down anyway to whatever thickness is ordered.

Steer hide will have less stretch marks than cow, around the belly, but that's only if the cowhide came from a cow that was bred. And all that means really is less waste from each hide.

 

[Formeruser012524]

There's not much difference. They're both bovine leather, same species of animal. Bulls might have slightly thicker skin than cows, but it gets split down anyway to whatever thickness is ordered.

Steer hide will have less stretch marks than cow, around the belly, but that's only if the cowhide came from a cow that was bred. And all that means really is less waste from each hide.

Alright, thank you.

Now, in regards to thickness... another forum member said that this appears to be at least 1.3mm thickness... but for some reason - although I really have zero clue to be honest, it's just a hunch - to my eye it appears to be significantly thicker. Isn't 1.3mm fairly thin?

 

[El Marro]

No, 1.3mm is not fairly thin when it comes to leather. It is what most of us consider medium weight leather, many actually find it too thick and prefer lighter hides. What might be throwing you off is areas such as the cuffs and windflap where the leather is often doubled up or folded over to make a seam. These areas are obviously thicker and they give the appearance that the jacket is heavier than it really is.

 

[Guppy]

Is there a big difference between Cowhide and Steerhide? Because the Indiana Jones Replica I posted earlier in this thread, which in terms of color and "surface" almost exactly resembled the original jacket, is actually Steerhide according to the website.

Thoughts? Or would this be insignificant?

There's not much difference. They're both bovine leather, same species of animal. Bulls might have slightly thicker skin than cows, but it gets split down anyway to whatever thickness is ordered.

Steer hide will have less stretch marks than cow, around the belly, but that's only if the cowhide came from a cow that was bred. And all that means really is less waste from each hide.

Alright, thank you.

Now, in regards to thickness... another forum member said that this appears to be at least 1.3mm thickness... but for some reason - although I really have zero clue to be honest, it's just a hunch - to my eye it appears to be significantly thicker. Isn't 1.3mm fairly thin?

1.3mm is fairly thick for jacket leather, but I think it looks heavier to me. 1.6-2.0mm would be a good guess.

 

[navetsea]

I said the jacket from the movie looked like 1.6mm , i also included a sleeve pic of my 1.6mm cow.

Looking at your other jackets leather weight and how you want the fit however, i suggested at least 1.3mm to get similar enough creases but not too heavy.

Here is 1.3-1.4 mm vegtanned cow

This is pressed 1.4mm chrometanned cow

This is 1.5mm -1.6mm pebbled chrometanned cow

This is 1.6mm pressed vegtanned cow with 2mm pressed vegtanned cow cuff and patch pockets

Pressed leather is denser and characterless when new, also have almost smooth on the suede side. Vegtan is crisper than chrometan in the way they crease.

 

[navetsea]

1.3mm is to me my favorite weight right now, in my own opinion it looks the most balanced between drape and creases and still looking thick (doesn't wrinkled around the stitchings like thin jacket does). So i don't underestimate you based on your other lighter weight jackets (ranged from 0.9mm to 1.2-1.3mm perhaps?) to down grade the thickness from what appear to be 1.6mm in the movie to 1.3mm. Since if you buy from new 1.6mm can be an "experience" to break it in, depending on leather and tanning method of course.

 

[Formeruser012524]

I'll admit the whole pressed/vegtanned/pebbled/chrometanned descriptions confused the hell out of me... but the photos of the various thicknesses are great to see. You guys are awesome. The thing is I have no idea what to request from a maker now regarding the whole vegtanned/pebbled etc., haha.

 

[Formeruser012524]

1.3mm is to me my favorite weight right now, in my own opinion it looks the most balanced between drape and creases and still looking thick (doesn't wrinkled around the stitchings like thin jacket does). So i don't underestimate you based on your other lighter weight jackets (ranged from 0.9mm to 1.2-1.3mm perhaps?) to down grade the thickness from what appear to be 1.6mm in the movie to 1.3mm. Since if you buy from new 1.6mm can be an "experience" to break it in, depending on leather and tanning method of course.

I'd really love it to be as screen accurate as possible, so if the original appears to be around 1.6mm, I'd really go for it.

Was it you who had suggested South Asian creators? If so, could you please tell me how to contact them? If not here in the thread, feel free to private message me. (Unless that's against forum rules, of course.)

 

[Formeruser012524]

I also did some more searching, and the original really does seem like a combination of the following (all of the below), with some additional, unique design/details added:

https://www.orvis.co.uk/p/cockpit-oil-driller-tab-leather-jacket/6k6l
https://classic-kontor.com/brands/cockpit-usa/3226/cockpit-usa-vintage-roughneck-oil-driller-jacket
https://cockpitusa.com/collections/a-2-flight-jackets/products/mustang-a-2-jacket-©
https://www.noble-house.eu/indiana-jones-jacke/indiana-jones-jacke.html
https://www.jacketsexpert.com/product/indiana-jones-leather-jacket/

Unfortunately, none of them are satisfying enough, so it'll definitely need to be custom made. It must be at around 90% close to the original, and none of the above can pull it off.

 

[navetsea]

I think 5* is your best route, they also own tannery.

 

[Formeruser012524]

I think 5* is your best route, they also own tannery.

"Five Star Leather"? I just sent an e-mail to them a couple of minutes ago. Hoping they'll reply in the coming days. I also saw some fantastic custom made stuff on their Facebook page, if that's the company we are talking about.

 

[Guppy]

I also did some more searching, and the original really does seem like a combination of the following (all of the below), with some additional, unique design/details added:

https://www.orvis.co.uk/p/cockpit-oil-driller-tab-leather-jacket/6k6l
https://classic-kontor.com/brands/cockpit-usa/3226/cockpit-usa-vintage-roughneck-oil-driller-jacket
https://cockpitusa.com/collections/a-2-flight-jackets/products/mustang-a-2-jacket-©
https://www.noble-house.eu/indiana-jones-jacke/indiana-jones-jacke.html
https://www.jacketsexpert.com/product/indiana-jones-leather-jacket/

Unfortunately, none of them are satisfying enough, so it'll definitely need to be custom made. It must be at around 90% close to the original, and none of the above can pull it off.

That's very typical of the 90s fashions. They borrowed elements from different types of designs and mashed them up. To purists who like the originals they borrowed from, it's something like a Frankenstein's monster. If the original designs were built to a purpose, the amalgam of different purposes looks like an incoherent, conflicted, directionless non-design. Which coupled with the era's trend of oversize clothes is what sets some of us off.

But such a design can work - - the Indiana Jones jacket is such a design, being an early 80s impression of a 1930s jacket design that never was, but could have been.

Hopefully you can find what you're after, and be satisfied. Knowing what it's like to be on the hunt for the perfect jacket in your mind's eye, that's really all but impossible. And that's what gets expensive about this pursuit. If you really can live with 90%, then maybe you can find it. Good luck and happy hunting.

 

[Guppy]

Very early on in my jacket hobby journey, I happened to pick up this Schott jacket. It's a size 46, but the measurements were close enough that I could wear it even if it was labeled two sizes bigger than I normally would wear. It was roomy but it worked.

It was a model 146, and was a half-belt design in heavy cowhide leather that reminds me a lot of the leather from this jacket you're trying to re-create.

I sold it on years ago when I decided that I didn't need it anymore. But I could just about see sewing on some patch pockets like an A-2 style, take away the chest pocket, and it'd be pretty close to the 90% mark of what you're going after. It's certainly different from the jacket you're seeking in a number of ways -- yours doesn't have a half-belt in the back, and this one doesn't have the storm flap that yours has. But that's probably near enough to be considered 90%

So maybe try looking for some vintage 80s-90's non-motorcycle Schotts?

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ I kind of dig this idea Guppy, as I have read through all these posts, I have admittedly been at a "loss" as to how to help this fellow proceed. Clearly Zangy you know what you want and are determined to make it happen. I guess I just lacked the "starting point". Maybe this jacket suggestion may provide that type of thing - if you can find one.

There are indeed folks here such as @iknowleather who would be able to make many of the modifications Guppy has suggested. This is her busy season, so it may take a bit for her to respond.

 

[Formeruser012524]

To the previous two posters above...

It's almost 5AM here and I'm typing from my phone in bed about to sleep lol, and I hate writings lots of text on the phone... but regarding what you wrote/suggested: Please take a look at page 3, post #51 in this thread. I posted some of the jackets I own. Please take a look at the first two pictures. I always thought that maybe that one could be modifiable. Thoughts?

 

[Guppy]

To the previous two posters above...

It's almost 5AM here and I'm typing from my phone in bed about to sleep lol, and I hate writings lots of text on the phone... but regarding what you wrote/suggested: Please take a look at page 3, post #51 in this thread. I posted some of the jackets I own. Please take a look at the first two pictures. I always thought that maybe that one could be modifiable. Thoughts?

I don't think modding an existing jacket produces good results, unless the modifications are tiny. Anything that would involve adding new panels requires matching leather to what's there, and that's all but impossible to do.

I would suggest modifying the existing design to produce a new jacket based on the design of something close, and making whatever changes or tweaks are needed to get you to your ideal goal. This might mean borrowing features ABC from jacket 1 and XYZ from jacket 2, or it might mean just making some small modifications. Any major changes, and you are probably better off doing a completely new pattern from scratch.

 

[Monitor]

Why do you need the jacket to be exactly the same? Everyone has told you already that the jacket is just a generic 90's military styled A-2 knockoff without any significant features or details that make it unique or special and short of finding it piled up at the bottom of a clothes-bale, where it probably sits right now, on its way to Tajikistan, you're out of luck.

Look, I understand you like this jacket, we can't help liking things we like but perhaps you should consider taking an advice from people who really do understand what constitutes a good leather jacket and pursue a similar piece that isn't, to be blunt, trash - And please don't take this as an insult to your character or person as you admitted yourself you know little about leather jackets thus it is understandable your fashion choices at this point will be all over the place and often misplaced. Everyone on this board had to go through the same thing. Everyone.

I had a whole list of jackets I thought are the coolest ever but once I began researching, I quickly realized most of them were embarrassingly imbecilic. I grew out of them, mostly thanks to this place & later on thru other platforms that continue to enrich my understanding & appreciation of fashion.

Tl;dr - Listen to what people tell you, buy a similar looking but much better alternative that actually fits and look good, something everyone here will very happily help you with. 'cause if your style isn't like purely early 2020 ironic revival of the 90's (and you aren't 21), spending money on this, in any shape or form - you won't look good.

Take it from people who know.

I always thought that maybe that one could be modifiable. Thoughts?

No.

The thing is I have no idea what to request from a maker now regarding the whole vegtanned/pebbled etc., haha.

Show them the screenshots from the episode, ask them you want leather like that and that you want it to be heavy. That's it. They'll either have the leather or they won't.
Don't get into leather thickness business & all that crap as it's just a complete waste of time.

 

[navetsea]

my last suggestion is just hang around a bit, open other threads like
WJDYWT, or find and deal thread, or other threads, who knows it might gives you inspiration beyond this jacket is all.

 

[Formeruser012524]

Major Update: Five Star Leathers has replied to me this morning via E-Mail. They are interested and say it is not a big problem getting this made. They need specific measurements and more details as to what is very important to me. Additional photos would help, which in that case I can only provide photos of similar jackets that have characteristics I would be satisfied with. They say that this is distressed leather and they can artificially distress the leather for me to look the same as the original, but they also provided several images in the e-mail of already available steer hide and goatskin leathers, asking if I would prefer any of those.

And as far as thickness goes, they say that they would work with 1,3 mm. Unless you guys tell me that the original looks thicker? I believe some people said so. Another thing they need to know is how I want it to be inside, especially the lining, but inside pockets perhaps as well. It would require 10 days to develop a pattern after I submit all necessary information, and another 3 to 5 days to complete the project. Then they would ship via DHL or FedEx Tracked Services. But before I start gathering specific measurements etc., I need to find out approximately how much it could cost, just so that I know an approximate "range", if possible. I've sent them another message regarding that.

I also took a look at their Facebook page and they've done some great if not extraordinary work IMO, including this jacket right here: https://www.facebook.com/fivestarleathershop/photos/pcb.837007897174798/837007857174802

Now this "justification" part of the whole thing is very unnecessary, but I will do it one more time and prefer not to discuss it further...

Why do you need the jacket to be exactly the same?

Because I like it a lot, 50% because I'm a big fan of the series, and 50% because the jacket does not look like a "plain" similar jacket but is more complex, even perhaps even odd, but odd in a good way as I'm concerned, personally. As much as I appreciate you trying to point me in a different direction, I do feel weird needing to justify myself to people as to "why?". I have said thank you tons of times to everyone who helped me out, but the whole "why?"-thing I feel is unnecessary, because I know it will not change my mind nor the mind of the person(s) who are asking. No offense whatsoever.

Look, I understand you like this jacket, we can't help liking things we like but perhaps you should consider taking an advice from people who really do understand what constitutes a good leather jacket and pursue a similar piece that isn't, to be blunt, trash - And please don't take this as an insult to your character or person as you admitted yourself you know little about leather jackets thus it is understandable your fashion choices at this point will be all over the place and often misplaced. Everyone on this board had to go through the same thing. Everyone.

I really appreciate your advice and know what you are trying to tell me, but this has not *entirely* to do with fashion but more with owning something that caught my attention and made me really interested and intrigued into getting something similar. I have tons of leather jackets which would not be considered "trash" by most people. I only posted a small portion of them earlier in the thread, and I don't think anyone called a single one of them trash. In fact one member specifically mentioned that he liked them. Now as far as this custom made jacket is concerned, while I do take (slight) offense at the word trash, I also do not really get angry about it, because tastes are different. At the same time however, I do not see how - assuming you were to take that same jacket and make it normal size / shoulder seems where they should be - it can be automatically labeled as "trash". Perhaps we shouldn't go into this discussion, because no one's mind will be changed, and because it might lead into an entirely different and unnecessary direction/discussion... but honestly, if the same jacket were a normal fit, I don't see one reason whatsoever why it is trash. There are so many similar looking ones out there that look extremely plain and less appealing. It is a matter of taste as far as I'm concerned. A matter of taste *not* regarding the "oversized / shoulder seems out of place thing", but in terms of look/design.

I had a whole list of jackets I thought are the coolest ever but once I began researching, I quickly realized most of them were embarrassingly imbecilic. I grew out of them, mostly thanks to this place & later on thru other platforms that continue to enrich my understanding & appreciation of fashion.

Tl;dr - Listen to what people tell you, buy a similar looking but much better alternative that actually fits and look good, something everyone here will very happily help you with. 'cause if your style isn't like purely early 2020 ironic revival of the 90's (and you aren't 21), spending money on this, in any shape or form - you won't look good.

Take it from people who know.

That's a fashion thing though. And it's only 50% of what my project is about. It's like I explained earlier. No need to write again about the shoulder seems and oversized look thing. I came here specifically for help finding something very similar or getting it custom made. I didn't come for fashion advice. I have plenty of clothes that are fashionable. And if I didn't trust you guys, I wouldn't stay five pages into this thread reading every post and updating the thread regularly. It's just that the "why" thing should really not be part of this discussion. Please don't take this the wrong way. I think I've been respectful in the way I've expressed myself so far, and I believe, and really kindly ask, that the whole "why" discussion does not continue further. Again, no offense whatsoever.

 

[Monitor]

@Zangy003

I'll make this brief... Ish.

Actually, it is me who should be apologizing for even doubting the reasons behind your quest to find this jacket but consider it nothing more than a quirk that comes with the occupation. People often come here for advice and advice is often given even when uncalled for because it is what we do here. So for instance, a lot of people will come here for an advice about fit and most members will agree on what looks good and what doesn't and in most cases, everyone walks off happy.

Trash comment was uncalled for. Again, my apology for being over-opinionated but this is also something stemming from the same source as my opinion on fit - Having invested this much time into this hobby, I can no longer look favorably on pieces that aren't up to my own standards, regardless of how subjective they may be (and they are, 100%); So same as many other members of TFL, I try to steer people asking for an advice toward what I believe is the "right" way. And right it often isn't.

At the end of the day, I just don't want to see anyone wasting their money on something they might learn isn't really what they had hoped it will be, if it can be helped. But that's irrelevant. If you dig the jacket as much as you do, you've then obviously done your research and in my opinion, there's no substitute to getting you an original! And I can only respect your desire for absolute screen authenticity.

Besides, who am I to say what something should or shouldn't be worn. I'm considering dropping $5K on a pair of leather pants at this moment for the exact same reason you're looking for the X-files jacket, so to cut this short...

Gotcha 100%.

Let's get back to tryna find you that damn jacket; As for the 5* thing; I'm not 100% sure they'll do it the way you want. They're kind of struggling with getting their jackets fit the contemporary way, which is pretty straightforward and just the matter of getting the wearers size right while this jacket would require someone with a very precise understanding of the 90's over-sized fit to pull it off correctly and in the exact manner as seen on the screen.

5* makes a quality jacket but they're not exactly fashion designers, which is what you might need. . .

Suggestion worth pursing is for you to go through Etsy where most of these 90's jackets turn up eventually and I'll do some digging as well so maybe something turns up.

I wanna find it as well now. Can't be only one was made, right?