Cal-Leather

[Lebowski]

Sorry, i have no idea.
I would ask Stuart, he might sell you some.

Thanks, have thought about him too, just hoped there might be any other options to find those pins anywhere else.

 

[Chevalier]

I thought I should post an update on my Star Glove jacket. With all the time on my hands these days, I figured out how to mimic the machine stitch by hand to fix the pocket stitching. Luckily, the lower thread from the previous stitching was still intact. I could loop around it with every hand stitch through the existing holes in the leather. I realized I would not have trusted a machine repair not to leave a visible second row of stitching.

I think it looks pretty good. I used upholstery thread, which may be too strong. I have realized it is better for the thread to fail but permit repairs through the existing holes. If the thread saws apart the leather in the gaps between stitches, it can ruin that section of the jacket.
I did some stopgap liner repairs myself.

One section still needs a spliced-in patch.

I will probably get that done when things open back up again.

I could use some advice on the zipper.

I bought two replacement repro zippers. One in case the whole zipper needs replaced. A second repro to try to reconstruct just the zipper pull. Not sure about the best way to swap pulls from the sacrificial repro zipper. I would like to preserve as much of the original pull of the zipper mon the Star jacket as possible, in case other, better repairs become possible.

 

[JMax]

I thought I should post an update on my Star Glove jacket. With all the time on my hands these days, I figured out how to mimic the machine stitch by hand to fix the pocket stitching. Luckily, the lower thread from the previous stitching was still intact. I could loop around it with every hand stitch through the existing holes in the leather. I realized I would not have trusted a machine repair not to leave a visible second row of stitching. View attachment 234114 View attachment 234115
I think it looks pretty good. I used upholstery thread, which may be too strong. I have realized it is better for the thread to fail but permit repairs through the existing holes. If the thread saws apart the leather in the gaps between stitches, it can ruin that section of the jacket.
I did some stopgap liner repairs myself. View attachment 234116 View attachment 234117 One section still needs a spliced-in patch.
View attachment 234118 I will probably get that done when things open back up again.

I could use some advice on the zipper. View attachment 234119 I bought two replacement repro zippers. One in case the whole zipper needs replaced. A second repro to try to reconstruct just the zipper pull. Not sure about the best way to swap pulls from the sacrificial repro zipper. I would like to preserve as much of the original pull of the zipper mon the Star jacket as possible, in case other, better repairs become possible.

Very cool. I’ve always liked the character simple home repairs add to vintage jackets. I just purchased a sewing machine for my wife and made sure it could handle leather, so I could have a go from time to time. I have hand stitched little lining repairs a few times.

If you would, a picture of the entire jacket please. Star Glove is on my short list of must have jackets.

 

[Chevalier]

I borrowed a pic from when I first got the jacket and posted about it. The light now is too dim for a photo to do the jacket justice. I have since repaired most of the liner tear you can see near the collar.

I also found this pic that shows how I mimicked the machine stitching.

It was a pain to do, but I worth it once I figured it out.

 

[Chevalier]

I’m hoping for some advice regarding repairing the lining of this jacket. Is there any value to keeping the “original” lining to these jackets? I put original in quotes because I am not sure that the current lining IS the original. I am weighing a choice between a spot repair of the lining in the area shown below and a replacement of the body lining of the jacket. The price difference is sizable, but I want to do what is best for keeping the jacket in the best condition possible for the long haul. Don’t worry, I am keeping the Star Glove label even with a new lining

 

[Guppy]

It looks like an original lining, from what I can see in the photos.

I don't have any advice on whether to replace it or not. You could consider patching. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how nice you want it to be.

Cal is still around, so probably the best place to go.

 

[jonbuilder]

I would say it depend how much you plan to wear the jacket. I took a Buco J100 to Johnsonleathers for a patch at the neck of the linning. Johnson mistakenly replaced the body linning for the patch price. 12 years later and 1000 plus wearing the replacement linning looks worn and original.

 

[jonbuilder]

Also, I think Johnson Leathers will do as good a job as Cal Leather with a lot less trouble. Placing a patch over the neck of a jacket lining is not rocket science.

 

[jonbuilder]

Does the front zipper on your Star Gove look original? My two Star Gloves have spring-loaded number 10 crown zippers.

 

[Chevalier]

Does the front zipper on your Star Gove look original? My two Star Gloves have spring-loaded number 10 crown zippers.

Hi jonbuilder,
Here is a pic of my front zipper. It is a hefty Talon. It may not be original, but it looks to be vintage, if it is a replacement.

 

[Chevalier]

I would say it depend how much you plan to wear the jacket. I took a Buco J100 to Johnsonleathers for a patch at the neck of the linning. Johnson mistakenly replaced the body linning for the patch price. 12 years later and 1000 plus wearing the replacement linning looks worn and original.

Did they have to sew into the exterior leather at all to replace the lining? It may end up being the deciding factor for me about whether to patch or re-line. I am talking to the people at Johnson online, but we haven’t made it to that level of detail yet.

 

[Chevalier]

It looks like an original lining, from what I can see in the photos.

I don't have any advice on whether to replace it or not. You could consider patching. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how nice you want it to be.

Cal is still around, so probably the best place to go.

The tag also looks like it is in its original spot (and not re-sewn into a replacement lining). If it is original, I think I would patch rather than replace.
I have not had any luck contacting Cal Leathers by email. I need to try calling. There is an appeal to sending the jacket to the original maker for a fix.

 

[ksozay]

The main zip is a replacement. Star Glove (now Cal Leather) didn't use Talon zippers until later (60s). So Conmar would have been the typical main zip.

I've got a few Star Glove jackets and some of the sentimental attachment I have is from the hand repairs I've made on them. Adds to the character, charm, and history of the jacket (IMHO).

For more significant repairs, I'd only trust Gwen at Cal. She has done a fantastic job on repairing a number of leather jackets for me and she is able to source many of the original bits to keep the jacket period correct.

If you need help getting connected with her, please let me know. Happy to assist.

 

[jonbuilder]

Your zipper looks like a replaced zipper in an early Cal of mine. Here are pictures of the lining in my Star Glove. The jacket is in pristine condition obvious very little use and all original
I plan to post my Star Glove and three Cals need to take the time

 

[JMax]

Your zipper looks like a replaced zipper in an early Cal of mine. Here are pictures of the lining in my Star Glove. The jacket is in pristine condition obvious very little use and all original
I plan to post my Star Glove and three Cals need to take the time
View attachment 242105 View attachment 242106

Please do. I need to see the Star Glove!

 

[jonbuilder]

here a picture of the zip. I had a straight zip Star that I sold due to leather issues. That jacket has the same zip and it failed rotten tape at the insection pin. I was lucky and found a pair of similar spring-loaded number 10 Crown zips on ebay from the Philippines for about $30 for the pair. My straight zip Star had been worn hard the leather at the shoulder was flacking and the end of the cuffs the leather has rotted. I had the cuffs shorten at Johnson's.
In my opinion, I get badass feel when I wear a heavy straight zip Star or Cal police jacket that the cross zips do not deliver

 

[jonbuilder]

Please do. I need to see the Star Glove!

jmax I am on it by the end of the week I do not have pictures saved of the star it is one of my early purchases before I documented. I have a few Star= pictures saved on my computer I will share also

 

[Chevalier]

The main zip is a replacement. Star Glove (now Cal Leather) didn't use Talon zippers until later (60s). So Conmar would have been the typical main zip.

I've got a few Star Glove jackets and some of the sentimental attachment I have is from the hand repairs I've made on them. Adds to the character, charm, and history of the jacket (IMHO).

For more significant repairs, I'd only trust Gwen at Cal. She has done a fantastic job on repairing a number of leather jackets for me and she is able to source many of the original bits to keep the jacket period correct.

If you need help getting connected with her, please let me know. Happy to assist.

Thanks for the info about the main zip replacement. Do you think it was done in the 60s or later than that? I had a tough time dating that Talon main zipper. Also, do you think the pocket zippers are also replacements? It has been hard to find a replacement pull, and I am not entirely happy with the one I did manage to track down.
I’m going to try calling Cal Leathers this week to see if they are back in the workshop.

 

[Chevalier]

Your zipper looks like a replaced zipper in an early Cal of mine. Here are pictures of the lining in my Star Glove. The jacket is in pristine condition obvious very little use and all original
I plan to post my Star Glove and three Cals need to take the time
View attachment 242105 View attachment 242106

It is a really nice lining on that jacket. Cool pattern in the fabric! Looks like it might also reinforce the fabric. There are a few spots n my lining where the wear of taking the jacket on and off has worn out the fabric.

 

[navetsea]

I imagine it would be a lot easier to emulate machine stitching if you use leather needle, or modify sewing machine needle with a handle. needle with hole near the tip.