Bound vs. Raw Edge Brim?

[BanjoMerlin]

I think the ribbon has a lot more to do with the formality than the brim. A Stetson Open Road or Stratoliner with a thin ribbon and bound brim seems much more informal to me than an unbound hat with a 2" ribbon.

 

[dwebber18]

I think the ribbon has a lot more to do with the formality than the brim. A Stetson Open Road or Stratoliner with a thin ribbon and bound brim seems much more informal to me than an unbound hat with a 2" ribbon.

Agreed

 

[AlterEgo]

The presence or absence of binding on a hat's brim is unrelated to its formality. On thin felt, it does impart additional snap to the brim; binding has no effect on that property in medium to thick felt hats. Binding is primarily a style preference.

As for durability, generally other parts of the hat will wear out long before the binding shows wear, but there are exceptions, depending on what you do in the hat.

For example, there is an old craftsman I know who always wears a wide-brimmmed hat because his work is almost exclusively outdoors. He specializes in "re-pointing" brick and stone structures--building back the mortar. I noticed that the binding along the front and sides of his otherwise fine Akubra Bushman was somewhat buggered. Watching him work for a while showed why: The hat occassionlly scraped against the rough brick.

I think the most durable type of brim, if that's important to you, is a welted one because it's double thickness and creates a roll that withstands the elements, though it may require a restitching, which is easy. I have a 15-year-old Dorfman-Pacific crushable--the only wool hat I've ever owned--whose underwelted brim has withstood that many years of trimming brutally abrasive holly trees despite that the brim rubs harshly against their stickers.

In fact, I've tried my best to wear that hat out (in order to acquire a nice fur felt for yard work), but it refuses to show hardly any wear, much less die. Hmmm, what if it were to 'accidentally' fall off my head when I'm grilling and burn up?

 

[dwebber18]

In fact, I've tried my best to wear that hat out (in order to acquire a nice fur felt for yard work), but it refuses to show hardly any wear, much less die. Hmmm, what if it were to 'accidentally' fall off my head when I'm grilling and burn up?

Or under the lawn mower, but that may be a bit harder to explain lol

 

[Bebop]

I think a bound edge ads a slight touch of formality and "class", for lack of a better word, to a hat. I don't really have a preference for either. If I like the hat, I like the hat. Sometimes the whole package looks better one way or the other but not always.

Is that vague enough..........lol

 

[Woodfluter]

Not sure if bound edge ever conveyed more formality in my eyes...
Do think it adds some stability (for want of a better term) to the edge.

Some medium-weight felts I have, both newer and vintage of good quality, sometimes show a bit of "waviness" on the edges but none of the bound-edge ones do. I suspect binding is an antidote to that. I plan on getting some of mine bound. Besides, I just like the look.

Cowboy weight felts...nope, not needed there except for style reasons.

Not sure about underwelt and overwelt, but I understood Cavanagh edges (felted in) were definitely more expensive to produce, requiring different bodies for each size, no chance to square up irregularities in the brim at the end by trimming, etc. So perhaps not a cheaper substitute for binding.

- Bill

 

[TiltRotorFlyer]

Felt Density

I'm just wondering.....but since I lean towards a raw edge, does the felt of an Imperial quality Akubra lend itself to trimming? How thick must a felt be to have a neglible effect on the brim if one chooses to trim the binding?

OK! before I get the comments concerning the alteration of perfection......it was only a hypothetical question. From what I have read here, there are many differences with regard to felt quality and thickness. I merely submit a conjecture to the court that the Imperial quality may be too thin to trim......any agreement from those who own this particular quality felt? Those who feel otherwise? Many thanks in advance!

 

[Neophyte]

I'm just wondering.....but since I lean towards a raw edge, does the felt of an Imperial quality Akubra lend itself to trimming? How thick must a felt be to have a neglible effect on the brim if one chooses to trim the binding?

OK! before I get the comments concerning the alteration of perfection......it was only a hypothetical question. From what I have read here, there are many differences with regard to felt quality and thickness. I merely submit a conjecture to the court that the Imperial quality may be too thin to trim......any agreement from those who own this particular quality felt? Those who feel otherwise? Many thanks in advance!

I've trimmed the brim on my Akubra Squatter with a pair of scissors...normal scissors...so yeah lol.

 

[TiltRotorFlyer]

Thanks Neo! Was the squatter imperial felt?

 

[Neophyte]

Thanks Neo! Was the squatter imperial felt?

Indeed it was, ordered from HatsDirect. Glad to help.

 

[frussell]

Brim Cutter

TRF - while others have had success with the scissors method, I prefer to use a brim cutter. The one I have trims 1/8" I believe, and is perfect every time, which I can't say for the few I've trimmed with scissors. It cost $40 or $50 bucks from Hawkeye Tack, but has been worth every penny. I've used it on hats that I would have been really nervous about cutting with scissors, including 100% beaver. Just a thought. Frank

 

[TiltRotorFlyer]

Keeping it as is.....almost

Received my new CD today. I actually like the bound edge and the only change I made was to remove the wind trolley. I really like the hat and it will be perfect for the sun out here!

 

[BanjoMerlin]

the only change I made was to remove the wind trolley.

AWWKKK!!!

 

[Nick D]

My gray fedora has a Cavanaugh edge. My black one is raw. The brim on the black tends to get wavy after a while, necessitating some hard work getting it back in shape. The black hat is of a lesser quality than the gray, so I don't know if it's the felt or the rawness of the edge.

 

[Jeff M]

May be an moot point if Akubra doesn't offer it.

I prefer a welted brim to a raw brim. and generally to a bound brim also.
Clean look. Allows for more "brim control" when creasing the brim.
Looks good both formal and relaxed settings.

 

[carldelo]

I like welted

I think edge treatments can help avoid brim waviness as mentioned above. I plan to have a slightly wavy-brimmed Stetson bound as some others on the lounge have done already.

Of the hats I own, I prefer a welted edge, as my first hat was a Cavanagh and I really liked it. Aside from reinforcing the edge a bit, a welted edge makes the hat easier to manipulate and hold while wearing gloves in the winter - you can feel the brim edge through the gloves.

 

[MCrider]

Personally I've had a hard time warming up to bound brims. Like many others, it just seems to lend an air of formality to a hat that seldom matches the rest of my attire. I have about 10 raw or welted edges and only one bound older Stetson Open Road, which doesn't get worn very often.
Having said all that, last week I pulled the trigger on a Moonstone Stylemaster from EA. But luckily I have three months :eusa_doh: to get used to the idea!

 

[James71]

I dont know how you guys keep up the enthusiasm with a 3 month wait for hats. I dont have that level of patience.

At least half of my hats are impulse buys from the Hattery when I go in there for a coffee....

My hat is off to you.

(today its a black akubra bogart)

 

[MCrider]

I dont know how you guys keep up the enthusiasm with a 3 month wait for hats. I dont have that level of patience.

LOL Well here's a few hints on how I do it.

1) If it's going to be a long wait, always order in the summer while you're wearing a straw (or in my case Akubra Capricorn)

2) If it runs over into felt wearing season, always have more hats than you can wear at one time to choose from

And most importantly
3) Order it and forget it until you get the email saying your hat is being shipped. Then the enthusiasm builds up to almost unbearable levels until the hat shows up!

These three simple rules have helped me. Feel free to use them if you have to

 

[SALMAGUNDI]

OK I am frustrated....searched for a long time to ascertain the answer to this question. I like a raw edge but is a bound brim more durable? Please weigh in with your thoughts or at least a link for me to educate myself! Many thanks indeed!

One of my favorite questions!
My personal preference is a bound edge every time, as a hat wearer, and I think it holds it's brim shape better personally.
As a hatter, I can say that at least half of the gentlemen I fit prefer a raw edge. I can also say that I spend as much time reshaping crowns for folks as I do re-flanging and reshaping raw edge brims.
That would personally drive me nuts if I had my brim getting the wiggles every year or so, but I can understand the appeal to a raw edge brim as well, as it is a very clean look and no one can argue that. You'll have to post what you ended up going with if you haven't already (I'll be sure to check). Cheers!
-Jessen