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Bound vs. Raw Edge Brim?

TiltRotorFlyer

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
New York
Thanks!

So what I gather from the the link is that the issue is not so much about durability as it is a matter of taste. Any other thoughts? The reason I ask is that I am in the market for a Campdraft but thought a raw edge and wider ribbon would be more suitable for me. Hats Direct can do this but it would be a special order and push delivery to November. Perhaps I should order the stock hat and have a local shop here make the modifications?
 

jwalls

Vendor
Messages
741
Location
Las Vegas
I always liked the bound edge, but as I looked over some of my hats hanging on the wall the one I wear most Fall and Winter is not bound. I do believe that the bound edge offer a more polished look.
 

Rick Blaine

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,958
Location
Saskatoon, SK CANADA
Can't go wrong with a Campdraft

In my opinion. And out where you are, Cowboy, I would think you would see many Or type hats, although likely in a cattlemans' crease. My wife is from Beef country and her eighty year old father wears one to this day... my .o2
 

James71

A-List Customer
Messages
447
Location
Katoomba, Australia
The campdraft is a fine hat. Ive got two of them.

Compare1.jpg
 

TiltRotorFlyer

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
New York
Thanks Rick, James and jwalls. I own two Akubra Fed IV deluxe lids but really want a wider brim hat for the sun out here, especially while fly fishing. I like the look of the Fed but wonder if the CD might be too large a hat?

If I do get one I am leaning toward purchasing a stock hat and having a local hattery modify it for me.
 

James71

A-List Customer
Messages
447
Location
Katoomba, Australia
The CD can be very high with a bash in it like my silverbelly one. With the tear drop its not that high at all. A good teardrop or a diamond bash uses up a lot of felt and brings the crown down a fair bit.

The high one took some getting used to, but now I love it.
 

Neophyte

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,445
Location
Chattanooga, TN
I've had both a Squatter and a Campdraft, and they both have pretty big brims. Thing is, the Campdraft's crown is tall and voluminous enough that, despite the size of the hat, it really doesn't seem that big after a while. This wasn't the case with my Squatter because I bashed it too low.

Me in my Squatter. Looks pretty big, doesn't it (though I loved the hat):
WillowGreenHat-1.jpg


Here's the Campdraft. About the same brim width, but better proportions:
CampdraftSquattin.jpg

I think you'll very happy with the Campdraft, I'm actually getting a second one. I also love my bound brim hats versus the raw, the bound brim adds a very lively snap to the brim. It adds life, that's the best I can describe it.
 

Lloyd

A-List Customer
Messages
451
Location
Los Angeles
For durability I think a welted brim is the best.
Most of my hats have welted brims and most of the rest have bound brims.
 

Mav

A-List Customer
Messages
413
Location
California
TiltRotorFlyer said:
So what I gather from the the link is that the issue is not so much about durability as it is a matter of taste. Any other thoughts? The reason I ask is that I am in the market for a Campdraft but thought a raw edge and wider ribbon would be more suitable for me. Hats Direct can do this but it would be a special order and push delivery to November. Perhaps I should order the stock hat and have a local shop here make the modifications?
GAH!!! No. Let a Campdraft be a Campdraft. It's a peculiar style of hat that just needs to be left alone. Like the other guys here, I have one and love it as it is.
I think the whole bound vs. raw edge thing is largely a matter of taste, rather than durability. If you prefer a hat with a wider ribbon and a raw edge, there's no need to butcher a CD; there's plenty o' hats out there that will fill this application.
 

coble

A-List Customer
Messages
432
Location
houston
i think it deals with use. What are you doing, where are you going and how rough are you with wearing your hats. Both of mine are bound and have held out wonderfully, except for my 1950's stetson selv edge, its sweat band needs to get sewed back on, its the one in my avatar, i wear it everyday. I like both raw and bound, but i feel raw is more casual while bound gives a more dressy look. I have been having the problem of deciding what kind of edge i'l like when i get Art to make my hat. I also feel it depends on the style of the hat. On hats that i'm going to go hiking or camping i'd rather have a raw edge, because i just like it that way, it looks more natural. I personally feel that if the edge starts to rip it gives it more life, and character, if it happened to a casual hat that i love to wear hiking or camping or fishing it gives it history. But thats how i feel, your hat should show your character, and personality, and i like the idea of it taking on its own character even if that means if the raw edge is ripped. Even a dressier hat, if it gets worn in a lot, it shows the love you have for it. So i think it deals with preference, and what your activities are on how long your hat is going to last as a whole. I dont know if this helps, but in the end your hat should tell a story.
 

Hereward

One of the Regulars
Messages
246
Location
London, England
I like bound edges so much that he only hat I have without one I just hand sewed an edge onto; and while I was at it, I gave it a 2" band with a ribbon too.
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
One of my most durable, longest lasting lids is a raw edge Stetson 25. It, a trimmed Squatter & now a couple of Fed4's are only raw edge fedoras I have, excluding westerns. It seems to be more of style than substance, IMHO.
 

BanjoMerlin

A-List Customer
Messages
477
Location
New Hampshire, USA
In reading the old patents for edge treatments like the "Cavanagh" and the various fold-over methods one finds consistent statements that the bound edge is necessary for proper brim shape. The fold-over and felted-in treatments were all invented as cheaper alternatives to the bound edge. The much thicker felt typically used in western hats doesn't need any extra edge stiffness in order to hold shape - the stiffener product is enough - so binding was mostly decorative.

As far as which is more durable... A bound edge will show wear (fraying and such) much more than a raw edge. Of course the binding can be replaced (a very common repair way back when) while a raw edge can only be trimmed back and sanded to restore appearance if it becomes worn enough to notice.

It really is a matter of preference.
 

zetwal

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,343
Location
Texas
TiltRotorFlyer said:
So what I gather from the the link is that the issue is not so much about durability as it is a matter of taste. Any other thoughts? The reason I ask is that I am in the market for a Campdraft but thought a raw edge and wider ribbon would be more suitable for me. Hats Direct can do this but it would be a special order and push delivery to November. Perhaps I should order the stock hat and have a local shop here make the modifications?

Rather than buying to modify, I would recommend that you buy a hat with the characteristics that you want right out of the box. And yes, I think you are correct in concluding that it's primarily a matter of taste. ;)
 

dwebber18

One of the Regulars
Messages
216
Location
Hoboken
I like the look of a bound edge, I really think it brings the whole hat together. That being said, I just started the process with Art and for how I dress I think a bound edge will be too dressy, so I'm going to go with welted. Seems like it might hold up better, but still not be as dressy as a bound edge.
 

Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
In my experience with vintage hats, the sweatband and front of the pinch are likely to fail before the brim edge ever would.

There may be a difference in durability, but brim edge damage is so far down the road as to be something I wouldn't even consider an issue.

Get what you think looks best.
 

TiltRotorFlyer

A-List Customer
Messages
309
Location
New York
Just Pulled the Trigger

On a Taupe Fawn CD as described by Hats Direct. I'll see if I like it with the bound edge and thin ribbon. Who knows, maybe it will suit me just fine as is. I do find it odd that most people here describe the CD as a country hat but enjoy the fact that it has a bound brim and laud this feature as "more formal". What gives?

As for me, this hat will be used for outdoor activities, namely fly fishing; so the country hat feel/look and functionality is what I am after. We'll see if the bound edge complements my future use of this hat. Thanks again to all for the information and opionions.

Incidently Neophyte, you need a name change. You seem more like an expert than a novice!
 

Neophyte

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,445
Location
Chattanooga, TN
No matter how much knowledge and experience I gained during these few months, there will always be something more to learn. This is a life lesson, a yummy piece of humble pie, and as such, I will always remain a neophyte.

Thank you for the compliment, though. I am simply a student eager to share newly acquired knowledge :D.

As far as a bound brim making a hat more formal, I'm not sure that always applies. I barely notice it on the CD, as it's the same color as the hat and ribbon. It just gives the brim more snappiness, more life. Now, take one of HarpPlayerGene's Mallory's or JTL's Knox Premier's, the one's with wide binding of contrasting color, now THAT is more formal.
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
I really haven't developed my preference yet, but my next fedora is going to be a bound-edged Akubra Stylemaster, most likely. I'm just not convinced the look that comes with the Federation series of hats, raw-edged mind you, is working as well as it can be on me, although I have received many compliments on it. However, the raw-edge itself is not the issue I have in mind... bound-edge, raw-edge, for my next hat, that's nearly irrelevant, although I'll almost certainly develop my tastes as I buy more hats. :cool2:


TiltRotorFlyer said:
Incidently Neophyte, you need a name change. You seem more like an expert than a novice!

Are name changes even possible on this forum? There's another member here with a nearly identical name to mine, so I'm just wondering...
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
One member pulled it off - MattJH - after what he described as a long and difficult time in contact with whomever has such powers. He had a really good reason for doing it, so I think an exception was made.
 

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