Better fit

[Tony in Tarzana]

Fearing the worst, I dragged my cheapo Men's Whor... I mean Wearhouse suit jacket (the one in my avatar) out of the closet. Boy, if it had a name, it'd be "Mr. Bad Example." No wonder I had to take it off when I got in the car, which is fun when it's 39 degrees and the car's cold.

Here's my problem: Unless someone finds a secret stash of Roscoe Arbuckle's or Sidney Greenstreet's old clothes, vintage is out for me. Matt mentioned a Jorge in Long Beach (California?) who may be able to get the armholes right, are there any others? And how much money are we talking about, I feel silly driving around wearing a suit that cost more than my car.

Any other tips for the broad of beam among us? I know, diet and exercise. :rage: Given my frame, though the best I can hope for is to get down to around 250, and that's still big.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

You could always try these guys: http://clothiers.indyprops.com



Kind regards,
Magnoli

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Hey, thanks!

Here's a quote from their measurement form:

"JACKET ARMHOLE MEASUREMENT
For an authentically vintage-styled suit,
a small armhole is preferred."

I think they get it!

EDIT:

Sorry, my powers of obervation aren't always at full-strength. I think you get it, Indy, and you may just have yourself a new customer. Frankly, I want to lose at least a little weight first, but it's definitely something I want to do sooner rather than later.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Quick Sizing Question

Hello All-

A quick question:

I was browsing the Salvation Army thrift yesterday on 17th and 8th Ave here in NY and found one helluva suit - three piece notch lapel, fully lined pants, hand finished collar... just quality. I tried it on and found it to be my size... well almost. I have the feeling that the jacket may be too long. It hangs maybe half an inch below my thumb. Am I just being overly sensitive? Is it acceptable for a suit jacket to hang this long? Thoughts?

Thanks,

Fu Manchu

 

[scotrace]

You're going to quibble over a half-inch in a bargain-priced well-made suit?


Would you like some more hyphens? lol

 

[Fu Manchu]

You're going to quibble over a half-inch in a bargain-priced well-made suit?


Would you like some more hyphens? lol

Point taken. It should still be half off, which should come out to $20. I'll post pictures soon.

 

[Matt Deckard]

There is a balance with the eye on the length of your jacket, not your thumb.

When I was heavier I required a longer jacket to cover my rear... maybe I didn't, though I was very self concious and wanted it longer. The lenght is up to you... earlier styles going closer to the 1920's were shorter jackets when compared to many you see in 1940's films.

 

[tallyho]

the guide I use for jacket length is the end of my fingers when I am standing naturally. what this means is when you are just standing there your fingers curve in towards your body, they dont point straight down.

As far as jacket sleave length, it depends on if you want your shirt cuff showing or not. I never show more than a 1/4 inch when my arms are at my side. I never have a shirt sleave shorter than my wrist bone or longer than where my thumb starts to curve out from my hand.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

depends how tall one is. I've found that taller folks can get away with longer jackets. As a short arse, my jackets need to be very close to perfect in length or they make me appear even shorter. This is something i try to avoid. (Though 1/2 inch i suspect wouldn't make much difference.)

bk

 

[tallyho]

I agree. I am 6'1" so I can get away with longer length. unfortunaly when it comes to vintage, I have a very hard time finding stuff. I think I read somewhere that the average heigth of a man bak then was 5'9" and wore a 38 jacket

 

[Baron Kurtz]

From the data i've seen, there is little difference between now and then as to height. The idea that people were smaller in the golden era appears to be something of a myth. From this article:

http://observer.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,6903,1185387,00.html

"around 1850, Americans - blessed with Western technology that allowed its citizens to spread unstoppably across the United States - lived relatively fine lives that let its menfolk reach an average height of 5ft 9in. By contrast, Dutchmen were only able to reach about 5ft 7in.

By the early 20th century the average American man was still about the same height as his predecessor. But the average Dutchman had nearly caught up and was only about half an inch shorter.

But in the 20th century Americans were overtaken. The average US male is now about 5ft 10in. The average Dutchman is just over 6ft.

More importantly, the latter is continuing his rise in average height. The Americans have long since stopped growing and, according to some measures, may actually be getting smaller. 'In relative terms, Americans are certainly shrinking in comparison with Europeans,' says Komlos. "

I have no idea, at all, why suits for taller chaps are so apparently rare. Probably because very tall people were as rare (relative to number of average size people) then as they are now. All the data i've seen indicates very little generational difference in heights. It's also quite difficult to find verrry small suits (34R-35S), like i need

bk

 

[tallyho]

great info! you know the vintage clothes store by me has racks and racks of 35-36 suits. I bet the one by you has racks and racks of 46L suits! LOL!

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

I wouldn't be so quick to discount immigration as the reason for the US lagging in average height. I am in El Paso for the summer, and at 5' 9" I tower over a large percentage of the Mexican-American population here even though I am not tall compared to the average person.

 

[CharlieH.]

Regarding the oversize armholes - is there a way a tailor can fix this on a new jacket?


(I haven't read all the posts in this thread, so I don't know if this has already been answered)

 

[Matt Deckard]

They say there is, though in reality NO!

I have had this procedure tried by two different tailors with the same result... BAD!

If the armholes are too big put it back.

 

[jamespowers]

They say there is, though in reality NO!

I have had this procedure tried by two different tailors with the same result... BAD!

If the armholes are too big put it back.

I would figure putting back what they already cut out too much of could be difficult.

Regards,

J

 

[CharlieH.]

Ah well, I guess I'll have to keep my arms down whenever I wear it because I really like that jacket. (Got it for my birthday a few years ago)

 

[Matt Deckard]

MK is in the process of getting a suit custom made, so I'll be following up on this section with some pics of the man himself.

 

[ideaguy]

Great. After reading about armholes ad infinitum, and learning quite a bit in
the process, I ventured into the deep recesses of my closet and managed to
pull out a suit and two sports jackets. Suit is modern, Bill Blass finest wool
I've ever had,wonderful dark charcoal grey; put it on, pants first, they're fine,
after four years of hibernation,super drape, fit & look perfect. The jacket comes next-pulled it on, admired myself in mirror, stretched my arms out and WHAT???
I look like Frankenstein!! sleeves shoot up a foot, shoulders knock my hat off,
and back threatens to abort. What the heck??This is what the armhole thing is
about? I put my arms back at my side, human again (and handsome, albeit a
tad wobbly in the eyes), suit relaxed and looking good. Great. Expensive suit is
good for standing still in. Period.
Cashmere sports jacket next in line, soft as a baby's smile...and same result!
superb Navy Blue cloud turns into straight-jacket when I shoot my cuffs-ready
to shoot myself. Off with it's brass buttoned good fer-nuttin'-next and last
is a camel's hair number, early Ralph Lauren, exquisite drape,color,feel,and same
darn thing-stand up straight-look great; do any movement typical to human
activity and I scare the birds out the window, no chance of driving in these
schmattas,or anything else...back on hangers, back in the back, and many hours later I get to the very end of this thread, hoping to find the "cure"-
and our armhole expert says nada,fuggettaboutit, get outta here, nutz.
Are you kidding? Have we all been duped all these years into buying good goods only to have this embarassment jump outta the breast pocket and
slap our face? Has to be a way to fix this-has to...can't just put on jackets
and stand stock still, afraid to even extend hand to shake; gotta be a way...:rage:

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you want to have more seems and search for the wool that will take the place of the extra sleave length under the arm.

Vintage has the high Armholes. Modern made by a tailor who's workroom you can see can make the high armholes. Off the rack like Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers oxxford, or Penny's or Sears, or Land's End... Low armholes.