Better fit

[Matt Deckard]

As most of you know, one of my biggest gripes about modern suits is that the armholes are too big, and cause the jacket to fit awkwardly. You raise your arms and the whole jacket comes with you... feels more like a straight jacket than a suit jacket.

This photo shows one of the measurements that many tailors neglect to take nowadays.

The measurement goes under the arms and behind the neck... it is a crucial measurement if you want the suit to fit well. Unfortunately I have found that many tailors use a ratio for the armhole size, and it always seems to be several inches bigger than the size of your arm.

 

[STHill]

Hey Matt, did your tailor have you wear a tophat when he measured you?LOL

 

[Matt Deckard]

Sorry no top hat... He insisted and I had to decline.

 

[jamespowers]

How about a Homberg or a Bowler?

 

[Matt Deckard]

Nope, just the hair on my head

 

[Matt Deckard]

It's all about the armholes

http://cache.gettyimages.com/comp/3...2&ev=1&dareq=5C2974C6277A0D2B51D4A06BD99BFF25

 

[BellyTank]

Too true. Same goes for leather flight jackets Mr.D.-
the armhole/sleevehead size and the shoulder width being too big are what turns most repro leathers into Mall jobs.
When you have a double breasted suit with appropriate armholes, firm shoulders, some waist taper and wide lapels then you know what a jacket is.
Belly-

 

[Wild Root]

Matt, did you see the cutaway on the first figure? It's like the one at Polka Dots! So, do you know the year of that picture you posted?

My guess is that it's Victorian or earlier.

And yes, it is all about the armholes! I have been very blessed to find as much vintage as I have, but when I have tried on a new coat, the fit is really nasty! I want to take it off! I'm spoiled with vintage. I can't bring my self to buy new because it fits so horrid!

It would be nice to find a guy that new what he was doing along the lines of a proper fit.

Root.

PS. There is a tailor in Winnipeg Manitoba that knows what he's doing! He's not cheap, but you will like what you get! He makes the coolest suits! I can dig up his info for those who would like it.

 

[Matt Deckard]

That would require me to take a long trip.

 

[Wild Root]

Yes it would, but you will be happy with the out come. His choice of fabrics are not the best, so I would take your own fabric up to him and he would do such a sweet job! Keep it in mind when you want a really good suit made. That's when you get tired of all the guys down here that keep making the wrong thing.

Root.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Closet is full of wrong things.

 

[Wild Root]

I know! So, plan on it some time in the near future and I'll go with you to tell you how to get there! We can stay with some people I know to save cash.

Root.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'm all about saving cash!

I have the blue prints and the materials for the suit.

any local loungers in the area?

 

[Gershomite]

I had not really thought about the difference that the armhole where the sleeve meets the jacket body makes in overall fit and moveability before, but what Matt says makes perfect sense. There is a marked difference in jacket rise between some of my jackets and others, and the arm hole contributes to this in every case.

Are there no production suits and coats that do not have this oversized armhole feature?


Gersh

 

[Matt Deckard]

Originally posted by Gershomite


Are there no production suits and coats that do not have this oversized armhole feature?


Gersh

None that I have seen lately. I think the whole world believes that a bigger armhole is more comfortable. Sure it makes a jacket easier to put on but it makes the jacket much harder to wear.

Not even made to measure can do a good job in making a smaller armhole nowadays. You need to get a good custom suit if you want to have a jacket that can be worn like Connery wore his in the early Bond films... Connery could stick his arms over his head and the jacket would barely rise. Today you stick your arms out to drive a car and you have wool touching the back of your head.

The Polo line from Ralph Lauren is pretty good for having a smaller armhole... They are not small like they used to be, though they try. Make sure it has the blue label in the jacket so you know it's not one of their lower end lines.

 

[Pyroxene]

Originally posted by Matt Deckard
Closet is full of wrong things.

That's the Quote of the Centruy.

 

[Wild Root]

LOL LOL LOL Yeah, I had to laugh at that my self.

Well put my friend.

Root.

 

[farnham54]

I am occasionally in the Winnipeg area, and Kilgour is only about 5 and a half hour drive away. If you guys head that way, drop us both a line.

As for suits, I love vintage, but for something wear out with the mates to a bar or club, I go with something more modern. Now, I love the look of Jude Law's suits in Alfie--rather tighter around the midsection, but not small looking, with broader collars on the shirts. I think that's a very sharp, very modern look.

Unfortunatley, I don't have anything vintage to really compare armhole sizes with. I'll have to try a small armhole jacket on one of these days. Matt, do you have any specific name brand or model that would be easily accessable to a bloke near Toronto with this armhole feature? Vintage or new, it doesn't matter. I just want to give it a whirl, as it were.

Cheers,

Craig

 

[Matt Deckard]

The only suits I have tried lately that have a better Armhole size than most are the Polo Brand suits from Ralph Lauren.

Make sure it has the blue label and says Polo. Not just Lauren or another line made by the Ralph Lauren company. Polo and made in Italy.

They are not as small as the armholes in most vintage, though they are pretty good. Too bad they are through the roof expensive and the cut is very modern.

As for Alfie... i saw the movie and the suit hark back to the old 60's style narrow lapel and tie look. I like it. Very James Bond.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Speaking of 60's suits, i just bought a 3-piece suit on eBay. I was surprised that when it arrived, it had skeleton lining. Very cool. I just sent it out to get dry cleaned and pressed, and then I need to go to the tailor and take the shoulders in a little (I'm a small guy, give me a break. I'm 15 haha)
I was surprised about the cut, mostly. I'm too used to american sack suits, and the fit was a little more ergonomic. I'll post pics in the "show off your suits" thread when I get it.
Ray