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Bespoke Simmons Bilt

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BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
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7
hi,

I have been lurking for a while and was wondering what people's experience with custom jackets from simmons bilt, I am thinking of getting a double breasted flight jacket from them and the quote is very reasonable.

so I was wondering how much customization that people had and how it turned out

other options to consider for a bespoke / custom jacket are interesting to hear about too. particularly if experiences are shared
 

l0fielectronic

Practically Family
Messages
666
Location
UK
If you've been lurking for a while then you'll know this maybe isn't the best place to ask this question :)


I have no experience of custom jackets from them. I did purchase a jacket from their sales page quite some time ago, it was a very nice jacket for the sale price, however I never quite got on with it and a couple of the details bothered me so I sold it on. I also ordered another jacket from their sales page, that one was less well finished and had a couple of somewhat odd issues, so I returned it.

My overall impression from that, and the jackets I've seen, is that they can certainly make very good jackets, but they also seem to try to make them to a budget as much as possible. Fine if you consider the price, and more so at what they were selling things for on their sales page. That said, this was all before I read the full details of the legal case and, after that, its not really a brand I'd feel comfortable with any more personally.


The only other thing I find odd, looking now, is how a year or so(?) after re-branding their business they still have logos of the old name all over their website, that doesn't seem that confidence inspiring somehow.
 

BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
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7
I'm aware of the case but still thought that this forum would have more people familiar with the brand and had seen items in person than any other forum.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,906
Location
Shanghai
I'm currently waiting on a Simmons Bilt custom jacket copied from one I have- it should be ready fairly soon, and they seem to be a good option due to affordability (and, in my case, not being able to ship and receive one- and then two- jackets all over the planet). I found the level of customer service to be outstanding at every turn. The difficulty is that, should the end result turn out wonderfully, it may be hard to express that here without comments on the company's past (which may well have their place, but at some point past should be past).
 

samo

One of the Regulars
Messages
121
Location
Slovenia
Hi,

IMO the quality of the SB and Aero are the same, but SB jackets are a little bit affordable. Well, if You want to have Shinki leather the price of SB jacket will be on par with Aero's. I think that at SB they are also prone to any jacket customization you could ever want what is not case with Aero.
 
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Plumbline

One Too Many
Messages
1,271
Location
UK
I've had a few custom jackets from SB and all of them have been excellent TBH .... easily on a par with any of the retro manufacturers. From custom linings, trim, pocket redesigns, custom back designs to some very heavily modified jackets.

I've also designed a couple myself ( Adventurer etc. ) and had SB make them up and been delighted with the results. 13 jackets in total, 5 from the sale pages, 5 stock designs and 3 full custom designs ... ALL with custom features from the simplest sleeve shortening or inside pockets fitting to retro fitting cuffs.

I have even had custom modifications done to other manufacturers jackets to suit ( Ebay purchases from Eastman / Aero .... the Aero label from my Longshoreman, which was in to have the lining replaced with my own lochcarron lambswool blanket material, was even confiscated in one of the infamous police raids .... and Lost Worlds ........ even had the sleeves shortened on a Goodwear A2 which might have been pattern and period correct but was made for an Orangutan :) ).

As many on here know I don't have the brand loyalty of most of the FL partisans and while some find this disconcerting that's their stuff not mine. IMHO they do great work, are relatively local and a delight to deal with .... just my experience for what it's worth.
 

BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
Messages
7
Hmm...

So far working with them has been a bit of a pain, it seems it takes about a day to get a reply to any message I send, even if I reply to their message immediately. Also it has been very difficult to figure out if they will order leathers that they don't normally stock...

Anyway, Plumbline and zebedee, were you ever given an email better than the info@ when it came down to ironing out the detail?

I think I may work with my regular custom clothier even though they are notably more expensive, they have very good and fast customer service, and are willing to order the leather I really want (Color 8 in Chromexcel horsehide).
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
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2,321
Location
Germany
I don't think SB can order you a special leather for just one jacket, because usually the suppliers won't deliver such small amounts and they would be forced to order a large amount of hides which they have no use for. If you have that specific demands, I recommend you to go to that tailor of yours because I have doubts SB will be able to satisfy you in other regards, either.
 

Plumbline

One Too Many
Messages
1,271
Location
UK
I find phone is better than email as a medium for communicating ( which I then confirm with email ) ... though one day for reply is pretty good in the repro jacket world TBH !

I normally speak directly to either Debs or Steve ( both of whom I have had no issues with whatsoever )

Not sure SB would want to purchase hide for one jacket alone ... as others have said I think that would be cost and volume prohibitive.

If you have a very specific hide requirement and a specific design in mind .. I'd always go through a source you know and you know to be reliable rather than one that is unfamiliar.


Just MHO
 
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BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
Messages
7
The volume is not prohibitive (I think you need to order 20 sq. ft. of hides or more, if my tailor can get it for one jacket, it should be easy for most people to), though at low volume the cost is a bit high. I am still waiting for the official statement from Simmons Bilt.

Also I have been informed that Aero does do custom work but on a case by case basis, and they offer the type of leather I want but maybe not the color (anyone know of a link where I can see the jackets in different colors?, particularly the cordovan and cherry CXL horse), I haven't even heard if they would be willing to do my project yet.

Yeah, I am leaning strongly towards the tailor I have an existing relationship with. Though SB and Aero have more experience with this specific type of work, I have seen pictures of a double breasted flight jacket styled motorcycle jacket made of 5 oz bull hide.

Edit: Found pictures of the leather colors on the site
 
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Harris HTM

One Too Many
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1,890
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In the Depths of R'lyeh
The volume is not prohibitive (I think you need to order 20 sq. ft. of hides or more, if my tailor can get it for one jacket, it should be easy for most people to), though at low volume the cost is a bit high. I am still waiting for the official statement from Simmons Bilt.

Also I have been informed that Aero does do custom work but on a case by case basis, and they offer the type of leather I want but maybe not the color (anyone know of a link where I can see the jackets in different colors?, particularly the cordovan and cherry CXL horse), I haven't even heard if they would be willing to do my project yet.

Yeah, I am leaning strongly towards the tailor I have an existing relationship with. Though SB and Aero have more experience with this specific type of work, I have seen pictures of a double breasted flight jacket styled motorcycle jacket made of 5 oz bull hide.

Edit: Found pictures of the leather colors on the site

Have you talked to your tailor to verify that he can handle such thick leathers? A 5oz leather is more of a shoe leather so I don't know whether a normal sewing machine can do the work.
The no8 horween chromexcel is an amazing leather, I have a pair of William Lennons made out of it - great colour (depth and variation) and quite soft and easy to break in.
 

TREEMAN

Call Me a Cab
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2,568
Location
USA
Who is your tailor? Do you have any pics of his work or pics of you in a jacket the tailor made ?
 

BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
Messages
7
The tailor did make a jacket in 5 oz steer (but that was not for me), and I have talked to them about the Chromexcel horsehide

The Tailoring outfit is 'A.J. Machete and Sons "Denver Bespoke" Clothier'. They do a lot of unusual stuff. They will make pretty much anything you want in whatever materials you want it in, if it is something that can be done. The finish may not be as nice as something from a traditional bespoke maker, but the prices reflect that (suits start at about $1500).

they have some pictures at their websites:
website: http://denverbespoke.com/
etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/MacheteNSons
tumblr: http://www.denverbespoke.tumblr.com/

I can't seem to find any pictures of me wearing something at the moment, but I'm on my tablet, and my laptop is out of commission until I replace the CPU fan.
 

Plumbline

One Too Many
Messages
1,271
Location
UK
This is an SB / AL custom .... in Horween No. 8 ( Burgundy) "Warhawk" horsehide ... basically CXL without the hand glazing and with a gentle tumbling ( not my definition - Horween's)

Oakland2_zpsc5fa44ef.jpg

It started like as an Oakland ... but had the collar modified ( more peaked lapels), pockets changed ( angle and single lip), Adjusters changed ( Double D rings), Cuff Straps added , Back altered ( Single inset pleat ), length and cut front-rear altered ( 1" shorter than std ) and chest pocket removed .... and a few other minor mods done ( two inside pockets, custom lining, leather wear strip at bottom inside etc. etc. ) done

The No. 8 dye did bleed very very slightly when hot and sweaty ( collar of white T-shirts ) .... but it's aged really well.

I have no idea how to make it the right way up :)

Oakland1_zpse8d4b903.jpg
Oakland1_zpse8d4b903.jpg


Oakland2_zpsc5fa44ef.jpg
 
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BenjaminLeLoup

New in Town
Messages
7
nice jacket, I guess I should consider warhawk.

Anyway as for as for whoever said 1 day reply time is good, is right. I have been waiting a while to hear from Simmons Bilt. didn't know I had it good.
 

MRB1248

Familiar Face
Messages
86
Location
Hopewell, NJ
I've had good luck with Simmons Bilt. They made serious adjustments to my Roadster to get it to fit. It's probably about the same as my HWM, but I got the veg tanned HH so it's still so stiff.
Anyway, Debs is usually really good at answering, and if you don't hear from her, she may be traveling. In which case, you may send a reminder. She's usually really good. But, given the time of year, could also be swamped. Much like Aero is. When I sent them an email, it took about a week to hear back.
 

K-Pants

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I am waiting on a slightly customized Detroit model from SB. I was in contact with Debs via email and for the most part she responded quite promptly to all of my queries. At one point Steve, the general manager, answered a question I had about a particular type of horsehide.

I will post pics of my jacket when it arrives.
 
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