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Attic find - "dads fishing coat" style U-boat / Dr.Who

BigHairyFinn

One of the Regulars
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137
Location
Kemptown
Thought I'd share as someone might have an interest in this holiday-clean attic find. I vaguely remembered my dad's old "fishing coat" being brown and worn out, and after cleaning out during the holidays I finally found it again.

So, what do you gentlemen say - vintage feel enough? (pictures just snaps off the phone) I wish I'd been more inquisitive in the attic in the 80's as this'd been quite wicked when I was 16-18 and fit me. Though my mother had hid it extremely well so my dad wouldn't wear it in public.
ajuri_etu.jpg

ajuri_taka.jpg


Yes, definitely *tattered*. Both of the rear belt buttons are still there, but the cuff bits have been removed - you can still see their shadows though. The right lower pocket has a hole as if something chewed through. The lining is surprisingly well intact, checkered brown cloth.

The leather is very thin and I'd assume this would be a "coupon time" 1940's - early 50's coat as the leather has lost its original coloring almost all over. The original is a chockolate/reddish brown color. The label is of a locally famous leather factory in Kokkola, Finland, that was operating all through the 1930's to 1950's, and the model is what we here call a "chauffeur coat" and as you can see its still being made. No sizing marks, but it just about fits me, so I'd say a US 48 maybe. I wear a 50/52 and this is a wee bit snug in the chest.

Dunno what to do with it myself. If someone is into mannequins and displays this could well fit for an U-boat coat... or then if some tailor wants to figure out the model. I wouldn't wear this daily without repairs, and the leather being thin it also got the nasty "dry rot" in places... not to mention it stinks of... hrm... attic... had a few tackles and ice fishing weights in the pockets still.
 
Nice! I love the scalloped yokes. And the handwarmer pockets are great. I would give it a bit of leather treatment (I recommend Pecards antique leather dressing) and see how it looks then. I'll bet there's life in the old girl yet.

This should be an imensely sellable jacket, depending upon size. If it's truly a US 50/52 it will be desireable.

bk
 

BigHairyFinn

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Kemptown
Yes I love the design too. It feels as if it has "soul" compared to my leather "pea-coat" I got when I was in my 20's which weighs a ton. Now we talk about "leather" with the pea-coat as its thick as anything...

Problem with this coat is the leathers not only wafer-thin all the "white bits" means the top layer has worn off so thats suede - so I don't know if I'd dare apply anything on it. I know this phenomenon in the older coats here, the coloring they used made the leather steel-rigid with age and it crackled off after a while. The leather material is really rigid in the places like under the pockets or on the inside of the jacket where the original color stands and has been exposed to elements, but like in the inside seams its quite soft.

I need to get the better camera out during the holidays and do some measuring. As for size I'd say its closer to an US 48... but yeah, I guess I'll put it up for grabs, I rather someone who has better use of it than keeping it in the attic has it.
 
Hmm, yes that's unfortunate (bad damage to leather). I had noticed the bits on the sides, down near the hem.

This makes it almost unsaleable, i'm afraid, even at the large size. The only people who'd pick it up would be someone out to make a pattern (i.e. rip it apart). If you care about the jacket, the memories, etc. might be best to keep it.

bk
 

BigHairyFinn

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Kemptown
Thats what I was thinking as well - its fit either for a display dummy or something for a tailor. And as far as memories go it'd end up being burnt for the stink after I'd store it another 20 years in some obscure place rotting away - so I'd rather pass it on to someone who still would have some practical use for it.
 

feltfan

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,190
Location
Oakland, CA, USA
BigHairyFinn said:
The leather is very thin and I'd assume this would be a "coupon time" 1940's - early 50's coat as the leather has lost its original coloring almost all over. The original is a chockolate/reddish brown color. The label is of a locally famous leather factory in Kokkola, Finland, that was operating all through the 1930's to 1950's, and the model is what we here call a "chauffeur coat" and as you can see its still being made.
Congratulations on your find.
The site you list is interesting. Are you familiar with
their products and are they any good?

Oh, and what is läpivär jätty and kuluva? :rolleyes:
The online translation systems don't seem to know.
 

BigHairyFinn

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Kemptown
Oh, can't say being too well acquainted, its "out west" from my regular haunts. I just stumbled upon the site googling for the model off the local auction sites. They do make tailored specials, and its local industry, so they should be quite good been able to keep going 19 years. Personally their prices are a bit steep for my budget - well, *everything* here is overpriced so I'm not surprised (can you imagine gas just dropped to 5,28 USD / gallon ;) ).

Anyways, the mysterious wordings: heres their "explanation of leathers"
läpivärjätty = through colored
pintavärjätty = surface colored
kuluva = will fade
nopeasti kuluva = fast fading
hitaasti kuluva = slowly fading

BTW what size are you looking for - if you are? I've been toying with an idea of a vintage 3/4 (I have a peacoat but I'd want something a bit longer and with side pockets but not a full-length trench... a barnstormer/uboat/NYPD/German police general style) and found one just like mine in German ebay pretty good looking but alas, too small for me.
 

DocMustang

One of the Regulars
Messages
144
Location
Michigan, USA
BigHairyFinn said:
BTW what size are you looking for - if you are? I've been toying with an idea of a vintage 3/4 (I have a peacoat but I'd want something a bit longer and with side pockets but not a full-length trench... a barnstormer/uboat/NYPD/German police general style) and found one just like mine in German ebay pretty good looking but alas, too small for me.

Check these links:
http://magnolic.ipower.com/catalog/...d=143&osCsid=5e6c780eeffa281fc32d3cee117d43e6

http://www.ekmpowershop4.com/ekmps/shops/westedcom/dr-who-jacket-20-p.asp

I have the Wested Jacket and love it. It is well constructed and keeps me warm. I get complaments on it at least once a week.

Doc
 

BigHairyFinn

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Kemptown
Yes, for new ones that'd be the thing. Theres also say Wearwolf which has got a longer reefer and the shorter I'd call a "DrWho". But I guess shelling out for a *new* one is less fun than stalking the ebay... then theres the cheaper replica places and the tailor-made in India which aren't necessarily all bad...

Nothing wrong with my peacoat, except I've lost a half dozen pairs of mittens as the side pockets don't keep them in. :rage:

The thing is on the one hand I'd like to have a blazer type single row a bit to the "Fight Club" cut - or like Magnolis "Life on Mars" repro style. And then for winter something double breasted... now if I had money I'd get this one from Cirrus, but then again with the global warming theres not much use for the shearling... I have one old B-9 I'm selling - its just too hot to wear and haven't worn it maybe a dozen times and its getting a bit tight.

I remember back in the day I was visiting New York the first times there was an army&navy selling an NYPD 3/4 patrol coat... now *that* style hit... I think Schott made something to the lines as well, their current "military" is a bit like Aero's "mariner"...
 

dr greg

One Too Many
make do

If it's at all salvageable, then it'll respond to some basic treatment: I've got one that once looked worse than that,
just clean it with vinegar, give it a good soaking with neatsfoot oil, and leave it in the sun for a couple of weeks, that might be enough to get it back to a wearable proposition for your own use, if not, it was doomed anyway.
 

feltfan

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,190
Location
Oakland, CA, USA
BigHairyFinn said:
BTW what size are you looking for - if you are? I've been toying with an idea of a vintage 3/4 (I have a peacoat but I'd want something a bit longer and with side pockets but not a full-length trench... a barnstormer/uboat/NYPD/German police general style) and found one just like mine in German ebay pretty good looking but alas, too small for me.
Thanks for the translation and the suggestion.
I'm a US 48 or 50... I've spent a fair amount of time on
German eBay, but haven't found much by way of quality
vintage in my size.
 

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