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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Which brands had a "100" hat?
I know that Dobbs, Stetson, Knox, Churchill, MacLachlan, Cavanagh, Resistol, and Bailey did.
Were there any others?

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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
On some hats the brim goes out straight from the crown while others have quite a curl(?) to them. What is the proper term for that curl?

Depends.

Older bowlers might have a D'orsay curl. See Brad Bower's in depth history at: http://www.thehattedprofessor.com/derbydeconstruction.html

Other than just calling it a "curled brim" the most common terms are pencil roll and kettle curl. The former being a smaller curl where the edge of the brim points upwards. The latter curling the brim over until the edge points back to the crown.
 
Messages
12,017
Location
East of Los Angeles
On some hats the brim goes out straight from the crown while others have quite a curl(?) to them. What is the proper term for that curl?
Jared/jlee isn't wrong, but I think he might be referencing brim curls that are more specific than what you're thinking of. In general, that upward "curl" as you get closer to the outer edge of a hat's brim is formed on a wood forming block known as a "flange":

Wc8UH1S.jpg


The crown of the hat goes through the hole in the center (upside down), the brim is formed to the shape, then it's usually covered with some type of cloth and tied with string/twine to hold it in that position until the felt takes the shape of the flange. These flanges are made in varying sizes and shapes so hatters can create a variety of brim shapes. As such, that upward curl on a hat's brim is often referred to as "the flange" and, depending upon the amount of upward curl, can be referred to as having a "shallow flange", a "deep flange", or anything in-between. On a fedora with a deeper flange it's easier to snap the front of the brim down because the shape puts a bit of tension on the felt, which helps to hold it's shape. Shallow flanges equal less tension, so the brim on a "shallow flange" hat won't snap down or stay in that position as easily.
 

drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Jared/jlee isn't wrong, but I think he might be referencing brim curls that are more specific than what you're thinking of. In general, that upward "curl" as you get closer to the outer edge of a hat's brim is formed on a wood forming block known as a "flange":

Wc8UH1S.jpg


The crown of the hat goes through the hole in the center (upside down), the brim is formed to the shape, then it's usually covered with some type of cloth and tied with string/twine to hold it in that position until the felt takes the shape of the flange. These flanges are made in varying sizes and shapes so hatters can create a variety of brim shapes. As such, that upward curl on a hat's brim is often referred to as "the flange" and, depending upon the amount of upward curl, can be referred to as having a "shallow flange", a "deep flange", or anything in-between. On a fedora with a deeper flange it's easier to snap the front of the brim down because the shape puts a bit of tension on the felt, which helps to hold it's shape. Shallow flanges equal less tension, so the brim on a "shallow flange" hat won't snap down or stay in that position as easily.
Jeez, Z, thank you!

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Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,454

drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Last edited:

Bcraig

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
West Memphis ,Arkansas
I cant imagine not wearing a hat or a cap when outside as I have been doing so for over 50 years.
Helps to keep the sun out of a mans eyes and off his head and rain off the head and out of the eyes as well.
Plus if you have to take your hat off you may have hat hair but that is better than looking like you combed your hair with a firecracker because of the wind.


Thanks for the links[/QUOTE]
I got the Sunbody hat Saturday ,I got the ventilated open crown 5 1/2 inches tall and had them cut the Brim down to 3 inches and put a Khaki edge on it and a light blue 5/8 hatband.
I put a center crease on the hat with a crown pinch about 2 inches wide.
I first tried a height of 5 inches for the front of the crown,too high ,next I tried a 4 3/4 inch height and looked pretty good,then I tried a 4 1/2 inch crown height and my wife liked that the best so for now anyway that is where it will stay.
fairly shallow dents.
I am to get several different colored bands.
Thinking about trying a 7/8 band.
What do you think ? View attachment 156954 IMG_0968[1].JPG
VkN1zGg.jpg
53HcgrL.jpg
 

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Xylophile

One of the Regulars
Messages
132
Location
Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
From my reading about the Sunbody Hats it seemed as though the main gripe about the hats were that it was somewhat warm to wear in the heat,so I figured I would try the vented hat to get around that issue.

When Making the Pugs what material do most like to use?

And I see that some use pins to hold them to the hat,some use hooks and some just tie on.

I wonder which method would best serve the purpose of being able to quickly and easily change to a different color band?
Here's an observation about the vented crown: if the crown pushes down on your hair then the venting may not be as effective as you'd like. My hair stands up straight and i had to steam a pushed up crown in my Akubra Country Club, after that the breeze would go through the hat and through my hair which I noticed was more comfortable as I could then feel the breeze go over my scalp. And, when its hot its just hot and that's that regardless of the hat!
 
Messages
10,585
Location
Boston area
is it faded? It hasn’t seen a lot of sun. I just wear it backpacking. It’s seen snow and rain. Is it possible to get it back to be more brown?

https://imgur.com/gallery/ufKt57Q

Of course Vic is right! It looks like it needs a good cleaning, but it should be fine then. From your description, my bet is you might have broken a sweat, that is beaded up on the brow a bit there, bro, resulting in salt deposits in the felt. Like this one!

Looks almost broken in!
 
Messages
10,854
Location
vancouver, canada
Is that how ppl clean these? I’ll look up hat sponges
Depending on the level of clean you desire...the sponge will get out the dust and some surface but to really clean it this hat will need a full naptha bath. I just cleaned a 1950's era brown hat that was fairly clean but had a few dark spots. It cleaned up beautifully and now the felt has its lustre back and the brown now pops. Lengthy threads on the Lounge on the 'how to's' of naptha bathing a hat.
 

Bcraig

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
West Memphis ,Arkansas
I cant imagine not wearing a hat or a cap when outside as I have been doing so for over 50 years.
Helps to keep the sun out of a mans eyes and off his head and rain off the head and out of the eyes as well.
Plus if you have to take your hat off you may have hat hair but that is better than looking like you combed your hair with a firecracker because of the wind.


Thanks for the links
I got the Sunbody hat Saturday ,I got the ventilated open crown 5 1/2 inches tall and had them cut the Brim down to 3 inches and put a Khaki edge on it and a light blue 5/8 hatband.
I put a center crease on the hat with a crown pinch about 2 inches wide.
I first tried a height of 5 inches for the front of the crown,too high ,next I tried a 4 3/4 inch height and looked pretty good,then I tried a 4 1/2 inch crown height and my wife liked that the best so for now anyway that is where it will stay.
fairly shallow dents.
I am to get several different colored bands.
Thinking about trying a 7/8 band.
What do you think ? View attachment 156954 View attachment 156956
VkN1zGg.jpg
53HcgrL.jpg
[/QUOTE]
I decided to play around with the hat and gave the hat crown deeper dents on the sides,put more of a pinch, pulled the Brim down more in the front,took the back of the crown more and reshaped the top of the crown from the center dent I had originally put in it.
I like the way the hat looks now a lot better.
3mxY202.jpg
acxekzu.jpg

z9Df9H8.jpg

GFCM1id.jpg
Gor6h71.jpg
 

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