Ask a question, get an answer

[Wyldkarma]

There are way too many variables. Having a large head I’m sensitive to pricing by size. At 7 5/8 I’m lucky if I don’t have to pay more than a 150-200% premium over a size 7.

What size are you? Perhaps the best way is the put hats on your watch list just to see what they sell for and do that for a while before bidding?


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I'm a 7 1/4 or 58. I see your point, the bigger the size, the rarer it is to find one. I think my size is fairly average

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I'm a 7 1/4 or 58. I see your point, the bigger the size, the rarer it is to find one. I think my size is fairly average

6 7/8 to 7 1/8 is the best size range, but at 7 1/4 you will find lots of superb vintage hats at reasonable prices. I’d say go slow, look for something made in the 1950s or earlier (lots of threads here on dating hats), and look for examples that are without flaws or damage. The biggest trick is to have patience. I hate having patience.

Also check the classifieds section here on the Lounge daily and see the hats that are getting interest and what they sell for. I’ve picked up a few great hats on our classifieds.

 

[Joao Encarnado]

I’m looking at this hat. Seller has no idea what it is and the sweatband appears to be unmarked. No idea of its provenance.

Does anyone feel comfortable stating that the hat is fur felt and not wool/buffalo?

Thanks, Brent

Hard to tell. Would need (much) better pictures.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I’m looking at this hat. Seller has no idea what it is and the sweatband appears to be unmarked. No idea of its provenance.

Does anyone feel comfortable stating that the hat is fur felt and not wool/buffalo?

Thanks, Brent


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It's a factory second sold thru the Outlet store. See the hole punched in the sweat. The sweat is not embossed because it was probably stock for Amazon which means it is probably buffalo fur.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

It's a factory second sold thru the Outlet store. See the hole punched in the sweat. The sweat is not embossed because it was probably stock for Amazon which means it is probably buffalo fur.

Thanks Jack, that was exactly what I needed to hear. I’ll give this one a pass.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hard to tell. Would need (much) better pictures.

I agree. Since this is all I have to go on I’m going to pass. Thank you.

 

[Jerry Probst]

Ok this is a technical question not a fashion question.

I do outdoor work and I recently bought a Frogg Toggs Bonnie hat to throw in my suitcase for rainy or uncertain days.

Frogg Toggs uses a very lightweight polypropylene fabric as an alternative to goretex.

The question with rain hats of course is breathability. Fabrics that keep water out are very poor at letting heat out and fresh air in

So I’m considering punching a few holes in the crown and adding grommets for airflow.

I know that will compromise the hat as being waterproof.

My question is: How much?

I’m wondering if somebody who wears hats with grommets in the crown can tell me.


Do they leak to the point where they destroy the hat or are they acceptable?

I’m only talking about 10 or 15 minutes in a rain shower, not a full day in a hurricane.

 

[Zombie_61]

Ok this is a technical question not a fashion question. I do outdoor work and I recently bought a Frogg Toggs Bonnie hat to throw in my suitcase for rainy or uncertain days. Frogg Toggs uses a very lightweight polypropylene fabric as an alternative to goretex. The question with rain hats of course is breathability. Fabrics that keep water out are very poor at letting heat out and fresh air in. So I’m considering punching a few holes in the crown and adding grommets for airflow. I know that will compromise the hat as being waterproof. My question is: How much? I’m wondering if somebody who wears hats with grommets in the crown can tell me. Do they leak to the point where they destroy the hat or are they acceptable? I’m only talking about 10 or 15 minutes in a rain shower, not a full day in a hurricane.

In my experience, grommeted vent holes don't make much of a difference (if any) with regards to waterproofing. First, as the rain water runs down the crown it seeks the path of least resistance as water tends to do, and the raised grommets channel it away from the hole. Second, they're almost always placed on the sides of the crown so the rain drops would have to be blown horizontally to make a direct hit, and even then the diameter of the hole is usually so small that it would be a "one in a million" shot. I have a hat made from recycled truck tarps with two grommeted vent holes on each side of the crown. The holes are 3/8" in diameter--larger than most--and I've worn that hat in light and heavy rain without my head getting wet.

I have zero experience with installing grommets in anything, so my first thought would be whether or not the material was sturdy/durable/thick enough to hold them without ruining the hat. If it is, do it. If you're going to be in heavy rain long enough you're going to get wet no matter what, but for the conditions you describe you should be fine.

 

[1967Cougar390]

Ok this is a technical question not a fashion question.

I do outdoor work and I recently bought a Frogg Toggs Bonnie hat to throw in my suitcase for rainy or uncertain days.

Frogg Toggs uses a very lightweight polypropylene fabric as an alternative to goretex.

The question with rain hats of course is breathability. Fabrics that keep water out are very poor at letting heat out and fresh air in

So I’m considering punching a few holes in the crown and adding grommets for airflow.

I know that will compromise the hat as being waterproof.

My question is: How much?

I’m wondering if somebody who wears hats with grommets in the crown can tell me.


Do they leak to the point where they destroy the hat or are they acceptable?

I’m only talking about 10 or 15 minutes in a rain shower, not a full day in a hurricane.

I have three Safari hats with grommets in the sides of the crown. I’ve never had any rain issues at all. As you stated I have not been in hurricane type rain events but my hats have seen plenty of rain showers.

Steven

 

[backstagejack]

I have 2 quick questions.

1. I want a decent Bogart/1940s style fedora (no taper) that won't break the bank, something very noir. Thoughts?

2. I have an Akubra Federation that I've had for 9 years. It was large on me when I got it, had to put foam in it.... then after a few years had to take the foam out and now it's stupid tight unless I have a ridiculously short hair cut. If I bought a new Federation, should I go a size up? I just feel that would be way too big.

 

[Tukwila]

Ok this is a technical question not a fashion question.

I do outdoor work and I recently bought a Frogg Toggs Bonnie hat to throw in my suitcase for rainy or uncertain days.

Frogg Toggs uses a very lightweight polypropylene fabric as an alternative to goretex.

The question with rain hats of course is breathability. Fabrics that keep water out are very poor at letting heat out and fresh air in

So I’m considering punching a few holes in the crown and adding grommets for airflow.

I know that will compromise the hat as being waterproof.

My question is: How much?

I’m wondering if somebody who wears hats with grommets in the crown can tell me.


Do they leak to the point where they destroy the hat or are they acceptable?

I’m only talking about 10 or 15 minutes in a rain shower, not a full day in a hurricane.

I will say, when the wind is blowing the rain sideways some rain can come in through the grommets. I had that happen to me.... coooooooooooooold rain, too.

 

[scottyrocks]

Ok this is a technical question not a fashion question.

I do outdoor work and I recently bought a Frogg Toggs Bonnie hat to throw in my suitcase for rainy or uncertain days.

Frogg Toggs uses a very lightweight polypropylene fabric as an alternative to goretex.

The question with rain hats of course is breathability. Fabrics that keep water out are very poor at letting heat out and fresh air in

So I’m considering punching a few holes in the crown and adding grommets for airflow.

I know that will compromise the hat as being waterproof.

My question is: How much?

I’m wondering if somebody who wears hats with grommets in the crown can tell me.


Do they leak to the point where they destroy the hat or are they acceptable?

I’m only talking about 10 or 15 minutes in a rain shower, not a full day in a hurricane.

I spend July and August outside all day, and sometimes we get some real frog stranglers. I have a couple of hats with grommets, and my head gets wet. This is not a problem when it's hot and raining, but when it cools down and rains, a wet head for me is misery. I wear my grommeted hats only in dry heat.

10 or 15 minutes? You might very well get away with it.

 

[scottyrocks]

I have 2 quick questions.

1. I want a decent Bogart/1940s style fedora (no taper) that won't break the bank, something very noir. Thoughts?

2. I have an Akubra Federation that I've had for 9 years. It was large on me when I got it, had to put foam in it.... then after a few years had to take the foam out and now it's stupid tight unless I have a ridiculously short hair cut. If I bought a new Federation, should I go a size up? I just feel that would be way too big.

We have a few Fed IV threads, but the short answer, for me, is that I have three Fed IVs in my actual size. They were a tad big when I got them, but they fit perfect now.

You will not hear it this way from everyone who has Fed IVs. Lots of us have different experiences. Zombie has about as many IVs as I do, and will probably jump in here soon.

 

[andrew_AU]

We have a few Fed IV threads, but the short answer, for me, is that I have three Fed IVs in my actual size. They were a tad big when I got them, but they fit perfect now.

You will not hear it this way from everyone who has Fed IVs. Lots of us have different experiences. Zombie has about as many IVs as I do, and will probably jump in here soon.

I have 5 Fed IV's. All in my size. All a bit big when I got them but within weeks shrunk to fit perfectly and have not shrunk at all since.

 

[M Hatman]

I fully agree with your thinking Richard. We often speak of hats for absolute quality standards that do not exist in the historical-productive reality. All hat producers have had high and low moments, different models and qualities that have adapted to the times. To believe that everything that comes from the past is covered with gold is a blank thought. Regarding Borsalino and its production we can write a few chapters that, here in Italy, were made by a historian of hats. It remains an irrefutable fact that even in the so vilified current production there are some fabulous hats, not all, in fact very few, but there are. Is the price exaggerated? Yes. The uninteresting shapes? Yes. But some are really magnificent. So it has always been. This also applies to other Italian production hats such as Barbisio-Cervo, Panizza, Tesi and some others. Of course if a hat is judged by how high the crown or the width of the brim, or by its fold, we are on the wrong path. The same discourse of assorted banalities can be applied to wool hats. Now I'm sick of hearing the usual stories about the superiority of one material compared to another, the divide between Europe and the States is total about what has been used to make the hats. It is part of the working tradition, of the materials, of the intrinsic capabilities of those who treat the materials. Opening the mind and training eyes and hands is an imperative for those who want to collect and wear hats, often the words without experience are just words and nothing but words.

+1 Hear Hear!

PLUS 1

 

[Zombie_61]

...2. I have an Akubra Federation that I've had for 9 years. It was large on me when I got it, had to put foam in it.... then after a few years had to take the foam out and now it's stupid tight unless I have a ridiculously short hair cut. If I bought a new Federation, should I go a size up? I just feel that would be way too big.

We have a few Fed IV threads, but the short answer, for me, is that I have three Fed IVs in my actual size. They were a tad big when I got them, but they fit perfect now.

You will not hear it this way from everyone who has Fed IVs. Lots of us have different experiences. Zombie has about as many IVs as I do, and will probably jump in here soon.

Well, if you insist... My apologies to those who have read this before.

Given my personal experience with Akubra hats (I currently own three Fed IVs and three Campdrafts) I'd say the conventional wisdom applies--if your head measures close to an exact size order that size, and if you're between sizes order the larger size. My head measures so close to 60 cm that the difference isn't worth mentioning, so I've always ordered size 60 and after the expected "shrink to fit" period my hats fit comfortably. I've had my "oldest" Fed IV for almost 10 years and it still fits me the same as my "newer" Feds. The Campdrafts shrunk a bit more than the Feds, but using a Hat Jack to stretch them out just a little fixed that. Actually, I'd recommend you get a Hat Jack if you don't have one already--with a little patience and some slow, cautious stretching, you should be able to change your current Fed IV from "stupid tight" to "comfortable". If the sweatband shows any signs of dehydration (dry and/or inflexible), it's recommended to treat it with a leather conditioner first so that it will stretch rather than tear.

It's worth mentioning that Akubra uses different leathers for the sweatbands on their regular/Imperial Quality hats and their deluxe/Heritage Quality hats, and they each have a different rate of shrinkage. To we consumers, this means their deluxe/Heritage hats won't shrink quite as much as their regular/Imperial hats, but they both shrink somewhat.

I think it's also worth mentioning that my head is also nearly a dead-on "regular oval" so I've never had to deal with the issues that someone with a "long oval" or "extra long oval" head has. I think the general advice there is to go up one size and pad the sides behind the sweatband if necessary, but someone with a "long oval" head would have to confirm or refute that.

If you're still uncertain, contact the vendor you're buying the hat from, provide your head measurement and explain the fit issues you have with your current Fed IV, and ask for their recommendation. They'll usually advise you to simply go up one size, but sometimes they'll offer to go through the hats they have in stock to find a "large 60" or a "small 61" to try to send you a hat that will fit at least a little better. That being said, hat sizing seems to be more "art" than "science", and in my experience getting a hat that fits exactly the way you want it to off of the shelf is mostly "luck of the draw".

 

[Cisco Kid]

So .... to jump in here with a related topic, I wear a 61 / 7 5/8 hat perfectly. Out of the box, most 61s or 7 5/8s fit me just right. (I've always been in bewteen a "XL" & "XXL" but that's a different conversation, mostly being up to the hatmaker.) My related question: I've always bought 61 / 7 5/8 sz hats, but after reeading of shrinkage, should I go up to a 7 3/4 on, say, fur felt fedoras to account for the shrinkage. Just something I've been wondering, again mostly as I've been reading these boards (and thinking about my Stratoliner and if it's going to shrink up).

 

[scottyrocks]

Well, if you insist... My apologies to those who have read this before.

I think it's also worth mentioning that my head is also nearly a dead-on "regular oval" so I've never had to deal with the issues that someone with a "long oval" or "extra long oval" head has. I think the general advice there is to go up one size and pad the sides behind the sweatband if necessary, but someone with a "long oval" head would have to confirm or refute that.

I can confirm.

I'm a long oval. I padded the sides of my IVs, and when the hats shrunk down I removed the padding, and the hats fit me fine with no pressure points.

 

[scottyrocks]

So .... to jump in here with a related topic, I wear a 61 / 7 5/8 hat perfectly. Out of the box, most 61s or 7 5/8s fit me just right. (I've always been in bewteen a "XL" & "XXL" but that's a different conversation, mostly being up to the hatmaker.) My related question: I've always bought 61 / 7 5/8 sz hats, but after reeading of shrinkage, should I go up to a 7 3/4 on, say, fur felt fedoras to account for the shrinkage. Just something I've been wondering, again mostly as I've been reading these boards (and thinking about my Stratoliner and if it's going to shrink up).

Just for clarity, sweatband shrinkage can be an issue only on new hats. Vintage, used, or new to you hats should not shrink, as whatever shrinking they have done occurred long ago.

 

[Zombie_61]

So .... to jump in here with a related topic, I wear a 61 / 7 5/8 hat perfectly. Out of the box, most 61s or 7 5/8s fit me just right. (I've always been in bewteen a "XL" & "XXL" but that's a different conversation, mostly being up to the hatmaker.) My related question: I've always bought 61 / 7 5/8 sz hats, but after reeading of shrinkage, should I go up to a 7 3/4 on, say, fur felt fedoras to account for the shrinkage. Just something I've been wondering, again mostly as I've been reading these boards (and thinking about my Stratoliner and if it's going to shrink up).

Just for clarity, sweatband shrinkage can be an issue only on new hats. Vintage, used, or new to you hats should not shrink, as whatever shrinking they have done occurred long ago.

I agree, but remember any fur felt hat can shrink if it hasn't been properly cared for throughout it's life--left in a hot car on a summer day, dried incorrectly after being soaked in a rainstorm, and so on. Many of us have read the stories here from members who bought a vintage/used hat online that was smaller than it's size tag suggested.

@Cisco Kid, if you're buying new I'd stick with your known size since that seems to be working for you. Don't let the discussions about shrinkage associated with Akubra hats rattle you--that's a known quality that, so I'm told, is unique to Akubras and hasn't been experienced with other modern hat manufacturers.