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[dh66]

I think the major difference between a trilby and a stingy is which side of the Atlantic you are on.
Although, the majority of hats I've seen that were called trilbys had brims that were flanged a little weird and wouldn't snap up in front, like the sides were rolled a little higher or something to prevent this from happening smoothly.

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[RBH]

Ask a question????

Does no one see the ASK A QUESTION thread anymore?

Do I need to remove it from the sticky's ???

 

[DougC]

I think this should be posted in the "ask a question thread"...

 

[RBH]

Thanks for your answer.
I will remove the sticky.

 

[ManofKent]

Thanks for your answer.
I will remove the sticky.

I quite like it as a sticky

 

[RBH]

Thanks Richard, it just seemed as if not many used it.

 

[Phteven]

I just used it and appreciated the quick answer.

 

[OT1899]

Howdy folks, I posted this in one of the sweatband repair threads a couple of days ago and didn't have any takers, so I thought I would try this thread. Specifically, I'm trying to figure out how to get the nice bell shape in a replacement sweatband like in a factory Stetson hat. It seems the factory sweatband has a bend in it that keeps the smooth part of the sweatband in touch with your head instead of the threaded part (if that makes any sense). I read an old post in the archives that said to cut the sweat on a 20 degree angle before sewing and to use a ferrule to hold the monofilament reed. It also mentioned "flanging" the sweat and referred to some pics that are no longer available. I understand the concept of flanging a hat, but have not heard that phrase in reference to a sweatband. Any ideas, suggestions, or speculations in this regard? Many thanks!

 

[dnjan]

From your description of the shape, it sounds like what a lot of mine do if I wear them on a hot day and I sweat. When the sweatband dries, it has the shape you describe.
So, if you want that shape before wearing, could you do it with water?

 

[Brad Bowers]

Flanging is how you get the nice bell shape to which you're referring. It's achieved by cutting the monofilament reed longer than the sweatband by ½" or so (various hatters will use more or less, depending on the flange they want). That way, when the ferrule is inserted into the reed tape and the ends of the sweatband are joined, the extra length of the reed forces the outer circumference to bell outward. Here, cyanoacrylate glue is your friend.

Brad

 

[OT1899]

Flanging is how you get the nice bell shape to which you're referring. It's achieved by cutting the monofilament reed longer than the sweatband by ½" or so (various hatters will use more or less, depending on the flange they want). That way, when the ferrule is inserted into the reed tape and the ends of the sweatband are joined, the extra length of the reed forces the outer circumference to bell outward. Here, cyanoacrylate glue is your friend.

Brad

Okay, that makes sense. I will give it a try. Many thanks for the prompt reply and words of wisdom!

 

[Roan]

Hey, has anyone here tried using lighter fluid to spot clean a felt hat? If so, what were the results? Does it leave any residue?

 

[TheDane]

Here, cyanoacrylate glue is your friend.

But beware! "Sticking to the old sweatband" may turn out to mean something quite unexpected

Looking at some hats from the 20s-40s, you'll see that the stitching-edge of the sweatband furthermore was compressed by rolling it in a special tool/machine. Thereby the edge was made longer than the rest of the leather, which made the belling even more pronounced. Without the right tools, you'll have to do with the reed-extension, mentioned by Brad. It's not ideal, but it's what contemporary custom hatters do - and indeed better than doing nothing to make the leather bell.

 

[TheDane]

Hey, has anyone here tried using lighter fluid to spot clean a felt hat? If so, what were the results? Does it leave any residue?

That works really fine, and it leaves no odors or residues. The hat can be generally and evenly soiled, though - and then your spot cleaning may leave clean spots.

 

[gtdean48]

Hey, has anyone here tried using lighter fluid to spot clean a felt hat? If so, what were the results? Does it leave any residue?

I used it to remove the hat size written in felt tip marker from a hat that I flipped inside out. Used a white cloth & blotted, no residue, basically same as naptha/white gas.

 

[ManofKent]

Hey, has anyone here tried using lighter fluid to spot clean a felt hat? If so, what were the results? Does it leave any residue?

I found you could get minor variations in colour (some areas end up cleaner than the rest on mid-grey felts) if you just spot cleaned so now I soak the whole hat, and brush it whilst damp. One of the standard sized tins (125ml in metric measurements ) is about right for doing an average sized hat and can be picked up for £1 if you don't care about the brand.

 

[viclip]

Hey, has anyone here tried using lighter fluid to spot clean a felt hat? If so, what were the results? Does it leave any residue?

In my experience the lighter fluid or naphtha will often leave a ring, if the spot cleaning is attempted from above. It seems that the liquid follows gravity combined with absorption & spreads the substance of concern, leaving a ring. However if I hold the hat up high & gently dab the dirty spot from beneath the area of concern, oftener than not there is no ring resulting from the exercise ~ it seems that the effect of gravity now is to draw the substance down into the cleaning rag rather than spreading it concentrically. No guarantee that my upside down technique won't leave a ring, but generally I'm quite pleased with the result.

 

[Roan]

Thanks guys, I'll probably try the spot cleaning tonight and see if I end up with light spots. I suppose I'll just go for the full-on naptha bath if that's the case. I just figured I already have the lighter fluid so I can at least try that out first. I'm looking to clean what appears to be a nearly unworn, mint condition Penney's Marathon that has what the guy I bought it from called "water spots" and I'm a little apprehensive of doing the naptha bath since I don't know how the cardboard "water repellent treated" tag will react.

 

[Historyteach24]

I know I am late to the party here but is the hat really in that bad of shape? I honestly have had a ton of success just giving it a bath in hot water and dawn soap.

 

[TheDane]

A very old trick I learned from my father is to soak the stain with naphta - and then put a small mount of starch on top (potato or maize flour). The starch will suck up the naphta together with the dirt - and can be brushed off in a short time ... after 10 - 15 minutes. My dad learned it from his tailoring grand dad, so the method has probably been in use from around the middle of the 1800s, and it was still widely in use when I was a kid in the 50s and 60s