danofarlington
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Doesn't seem overly ugly to me. Just my two cents' worth.
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splintercellsz
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Ok. I just don't want it to fall apart on my head! That would be a nightmare!
Do you think the more I wear it, the better it will be if it absorbs some sweat and whatnot? It's already conforming to my noggin, and it seems to make the leather look crumpled, so I may want to condition it soon, but I don't want to use a lexol, since I heard it can eat the band.
Do you think the more I wear it, the better it will be if it absorbs some sweat and whatnot? It's already conforming to my noggin, and it seems to make the leather look crumpled, so I may want to condition it soon, but I don't want to use a lexol, since I heard it can eat the band.
splintercellsz, you can always re-condition the sweat and see if the leather gets better over time. Use a neutral (colorless) leather conditioner, preferably a water-based one, ideally a product that has a good smell to it. I use an almond oil based cream/conditioner, but you can use just about anything non-aggressive as long as it doesn't have a bad smell to it.
While traveling I have used all kinds of fats to re-condition leather straps and leather stuff in general.
Without going too deep into it, there are also petrol based, and turpentine oil based conditioners and hard wax products as used for shoe shining (petrol based products like Kiwi are cheaper, while turpentine oil based products like Saphir or Burgol are better and more expensive). For shoes, turpentine oil based products are generally the preferred choice; for sweatbands, you can use just about anything although it wouldn't make any sense to use a hard wax, of course.
Water-based creams/conditioners will penetrate the leather very quickly, the remnants can be polished off very soon.
While traveling I have used all kinds of fats to re-condition leather straps and leather stuff in general.
Without going too deep into it, there are also petrol based, and turpentine oil based conditioners and hard wax products as used for shoe shining (petrol based products like Kiwi are cheaper, while turpentine oil based products like Saphir or Burgol are better and more expensive). For shoes, turpentine oil based products are generally the preferred choice; for sweatbands, you can use just about anything although it wouldn't make any sense to use a hard wax, of course.
Water-based creams/conditioners will penetrate the leather very quickly, the remnants can be polished off very soon.
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Hi everyone, I am looking for some advice, tips, words of wisdom, and what have you on general hat cleaning. Im new to the world of hats (outside of baseball hats) and am wondering how I can clean my hats without having to send them out for cleaning. What type of tools/equipment shall I need, etc. Thank you all in advanced.
DJH
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JonnyO, if your hat is pretty dirty, you can treat it to a naptha bath, as described in this thread.
If just a little dirty, I've found that a good steaming and brushing usually does a good job. I think there are some hat spot cleaners out there, but I have no personal experience of them.
If just a little dirty, I've found that a good steaming and brushing usually does a good job. I think there are some hat spot cleaners out there, but I have no personal experience of them.
jlee562
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Felt hats need a proper hat brush. If you have dark and light colored hats, you'll need a separate brush for both (as fibers from lighter hats can be transferred to darker felts and vice versa).
You can find hatbrushes on any number of sites, I've seen them on Amazon, Baron's hats has a kit, Sheplers would have it, Penman hats has really nice ones made out of real horse or boar hair.
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This is what I use for steaming....you can do same with a pot & aluminum foil....
For brushes, get a good shoe brush. Make that 2 & label 1 for dark hats. I get mine a Kroger where you find polish & laces.
Thank you both gentleman, you were both of great help. Now here is a naive or dumb question, what is the purpose of the steaming? Is it just for cleaning/steralizing purposes or is there more to it?This is what I use for steaming....you can do same with a pot & aluminum foil....
For brushes, get a good shoe brush. Make that 2 & label 1 for dark hats. I get mine a Kroger where you find polish & laces.
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Steaming releases the felt & shellac making the hat flexible. Brushing gets the dirt out of the now open felt fibers.
Perfect, thank you again, you were of much help!
Hi all. Looking for my next hat. Have a Silverbelly Campdraft and a graphite/carbon Stetson Downs. Had the Stetson first as a "dress" hat; got the Campdraft to wear "all the time" intending that it get that worn in look. The Akubra is a delight, but it is so nice that I wear it to work and now kind of hate to let it get too much "character". So, I'm looking for a soft felt (in the same league as the Campdraft at least) open crown, every day (casual, hiking, travel, no fear about ruining) dark brown, not western hat. I am considering a dark brown Fed IV, an akubra Fedora and an akubra CEO. I like that the CEO has a turned down rear brim, which I associate with a more country or casual look. Is the CEO going to be too formal? I've searched and tried to read all I can about these choices. What do I really need to know?
Thanks. Bob.
Thanks. Bob.
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I have never associated the turned down brim in the back with formal. It usually has more of a snazzy, almost sporty conotation. In films of the 30's & 40's the wearer of the turn down in the back brim was rarely the banker or businessman.
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To me, the wider ribbons make the Fed4 & CEO more dressier than a thin ribbon Campdraft (more of a country hat than a city hat).
doctorjhandy
New in Town
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- Alabama
Info on my new Fedora - From a fedora neophyte
I've been wanting a Fedora for a long time but never had the money for one. I bought one today at an Estate sale for $20, can anyone tell me anything about it? It looks like it has hardly been warn and kept in the box for its entire life. The brand is "Lewis & THoS. Saltz - Washington" which I believe was a high end menswear store in Washington D.C. that is no longer around. The liner of the Hat is White silk with the brand in black lettering. The inside brim is black leather with gold lettering. It has the brand name, "Beaver twenty seven fifty", and "LCA" written on the sweatband. I'd say the ribbon was 2/2.5 in. wide with a triple pleated ribbon (if that is how to describe it?). The entire thing is black, except for the white lining.
I like how it looks and it is certainly worth $20 to me, I was just wondering if it could be worth more. Any response would be greatly appreciated!
I've been wanting a Fedora for a long time but never had the money for one. I bought one today at an Estate sale for $20, can anyone tell me anything about it? It looks like it has hardly been warn and kept in the box for its entire life. The brand is "Lewis & THoS. Saltz - Washington" which I believe was a high end menswear store in Washington D.C. that is no longer around. The liner of the Hat is White silk with the brand in black lettering. The inside brim is black leather with gold lettering. It has the brand name, "Beaver twenty seven fifty", and "LCA" written on the sweatband. I'd say the ribbon was 2/2.5 in. wide with a triple pleated ribbon (if that is how to describe it?). The entire thing is black, except for the white lining.
I like how it looks and it is certainly worth $20 to me, I was just wondering if it could be worth more. Any response would be greatly appreciated!
jlee562
I'll Lock Up
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Hard to say anything based on text alone. But in general assessing the value of a vintage hat is hard. eBay prices can fluctuate based on size, and the brim dimensions can make a difference too.
danofarlington
My Mail is Forwarded Here
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Probably is worth more unless it's in rough shape. Probably minimum of $50, with a high end toward $100, sight unseen. I bought a very nice suit from Lewis & Thomas Saltz in Washington in the early 1980s, and it was a really nice store. I wasn't in Washington in older days, but I could believe it was the highest end store in town previously.
Bob
New in Town
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- Rhode Island
Hats cleaned?
I live in Rhode Island and need to find a place to have my hats cleaned and blocked ect.Does anyone know of a place in my area that provides this type of service? Thanks in advance for any help . Robert E. Bradford
I live in Rhode Island and need to find a place to have my hats cleaned and blocked ect.Does anyone know of a place in my area that provides this type of service? Thanks in advance for any help . Robert E. Bradford
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Cleaning and blocking
Hi, Robert, and welcome to the Lounge. There are plenty of resources with web presence that can clean and service your hats. However, if you want to drop off at a "brick and mortar" store, my guess is that you are closest to Salmagundi, on Centre Street, in the beautiful, sunny Jamaica Plain neighborhood of Boston. They're probably slightly less than half an hour from Providence, being more on the southern part of the city.
And, you may even find something new that catches your eye. If you do go there, wish them a happy 5th birthday, and maybe you'll catch the anniversary sale, too!
P.S. They were recognized as Hat Retailer of the year this year!
Hi, Robert, and welcome to the Lounge. There are plenty of resources with web presence that can clean and service your hats. However, if you want to drop off at a "brick and mortar" store, my guess is that you are closest to Salmagundi, on Centre Street, in the beautiful, sunny Jamaica Plain neighborhood of Boston. They're probably slightly less than half an hour from Providence, being more on the southern part of the city.
And, you may even find something new that catches your eye. If you do go there, wish them a happy 5th birthday, and maybe you'll catch the anniversary sale, too!
P.S. They were recognized as Hat Retailer of the year this year!
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Mystic
Practically Family
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- Northeast Florida
Living in Florida I have more straws and milans than fur felt hats. More hats than hat boxes.
My question is about storing straws and milans. What would be the best way to store the ones without boxes?
Being they would be sitting up for a couple of months...should they be set on the brim or crown? with brim up or down all the way around the hat?
I am thinking about getting some thick, but, flexible poster board and cutting sections 6" or 6 1/2" wide and about 23" long to make a circle such as hat box inserts. And, put the hat in the mock insert and set them on a shelf out of the way?
any input about storing straws?
thanks guys.
My question is about storing straws and milans. What would be the best way to store the ones without boxes?
Being they would be sitting up for a couple of months...should they be set on the brim or crown? with brim up or down all the way around the hat?
I am thinking about getting some thick, but, flexible poster board and cutting sections 6" or 6 1/2" wide and about 23" long to make a circle such as hat box inserts. And, put the hat in the mock insert and set them on a shelf out of the way?
any input about storing straws?
thanks guys.