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[belfastboy]

Welcome to the FL Granville. Wonderful photos of Irish Republicans from way back then. Interesting to see them from a hat perspective.

Firstly, who knows how the police, press, or others would term a hat back then. Fedora / Trilby could well be interchangeable. However, I think it safe to say, a Fedora has a wider brim than a Trilby.

Secondly, I agree with Robert @belfastboy that Michael Collins appears to be wearing a Lord's Hat style of Homburg.

Thirdly, I doubt very much that De Valera would have put pinches in his Bowler unless it was to cock a snoop at the Brits. In which case it could be likely.

I don't own any bowler/derby hats but wouldn't it be hard to place pinches in the hard shell of most bowlers?

 

[Steve1857]

I don't own any bowler/derby hats but wouldn't it be hard to place pinches in the hard shell of most bowlers?

Hard, but not completely impossible. Some hard shell Bowlers are softer than others. Believe me, I have about 20 of them. However, I have never tried, nor never would try to put a pinch in any of them. If I did, it wouldn't be a Bowler/Derby.

 

[Granville]

Re: Dev's hat. I don't think it's a pinch/dent so much as, assuming it is a bowler, that the hat has been knocked about. In the short story "The Hoplologist" by Maurice (The Quiet Man) Walsh, a character looking to go on a drinking spree in a disreputable neighborhood first removes his collar and tie, wraps a handkerchief loosely around his neck, and "knocked a dent in his respectable bowler hat." If the men had been fooling about on the field at Croke Park, which is where I believe the photo was taken, it wouldn't be too much of a stretch to imagine Dev's hat taking a hit. Or what I am looking at is simply a mark on the photograph, perhaps the most obvious answer.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Thanks for your insights, sir! Interestingly, the Hats & Guitars guy says the Premier Strat actually has a higher crown. But yeah, the brim width seems to be the main difference. I think I'll be okay with that...though of course it's hard to say before actually putting the dang thing on my head and seeing how stupid I look.

The Stratoliner is also know for a brim with a lot of flange. It’s one of the things that really makes it a Stratoliner. I guess I was comparing the crown heights using vintage hats and not the current production run. The reason that even the nicer Royal De Luxe and Pure ORs aren’t more populate here is their relatively low crowns.

Kevin from JJ Hat Center is a salesman and his tastes and recommendations have been known to change based on what the store has in stock. Still, some good information in his videos if you can watch them (I can’t watch him for more than a minute without developing a twitch).

I’ll second what @belfastboy said and suggest getting a custom hat. You can specify crown height, shape, brim width, colors, etc. You can probably get into a 100% fur felt (rabbit) hat for close to what a modern production Stetson costs.

 

[Steve1857]

Re: Dev's hat. I don't think it's a pinch/dent so much as, assuming it is a bowler, that the hat has been knocked about. In the short story "The Hoplologist" by Maurice (The Quiet Man) Walsh, a character looking to go on a drinking spree in a disreputable neighborhood first removes his collar and tie, wraps a handkerchief loosely around his neck, and "knocked a dent in his respectable bowler hat." If the men had been fooling about on the field at Croke Park, which is where I believe the photo was taken, it wouldn't be too much of a stretch to imagine Dev's hat taking a hit. Or what I am looking at is simply a mark on the photograph, perhaps the most obvious answer.

What makes you think the photo was taken at Croke Park? Doesn't look to me like they were fooling around on a Gaelic football pitch.

Furthermore, I don't believe it's a Bowler that Éamon de Valera is wearing.

 

[Blare]

I have a Scala fur felt Fedora that I stopped wearing several years ago. I thought Mrs Aahzz had donated it, but I have discovered that it was in fact shoved in a corner. So, I'd like to restore it to wearable shape. What is my best technique for cleaning the hat itself, definitely cleaning the sweatband, and getting the brim back into shape? The crown doesn't seem to bad, but if I'm reshaping everything I'll go there too. Pics for reference...thanks!! View attachment 399717 View attachment 399718

Robert gave some good advice for a real serious cleaning. Only thing I would add is you may want to start with just giving it a real good brushing with a horse hair brush. You would be surprised how much it can help… not only releasing dirt and dust. But in awaking the fibers of the felt. If it is still not to your liking you can go further with a hat sponge ect. But always start with a brushing before adding any water. You don’t want to turn the dirt and dust to mud.

 

[Granville]

What makes you think the photo was taken at Croke Park? Doesn't look to me like they were fooling around on a Gaelic football pitch.

Furthermore, I don't believe it's a Bowler that Éamon de Valera is wearing.

Looking closer at the background, I'll concede it doesn't look like a ballfield; I'd thought so because of the informality of the shot, and the other photos of the men in various combinations at the park (there are quite a few of Harry and Mick fooling around with hurling sticks, greeting the players, and sitting on the sidelines). I'll also agree that it is only a guess at Dev's hat, because of the apparent open crown. Anything about the Long Fellow was just an aside and not well considered (although I did have fun quoting Maurice Walsh), my real interest was in Mick's hats. I'm fairly convinced now (thanks to the mavens here) that Mick is wearing a Lord's Hat in the pics where he has an upturned brim, and the one shot where it is turned down is a different hat, presumably a fedora.

 

[Norm DePlume]

Once you have honed in on your sweet spot in terms of style don't rule out a custom hat. For the full list price of a Stetson Strat for a few dollars more you can commission a custom hat from a number of hatters. Better felts, better fit & finish, better sweats etc and you get to choose.

Totally into getting a custom hat made at some point, but pretty sure none of the fine masters around here will do it for anywhere near the 160 I’m paying for the Premier.

 

[Rmccamey]

Totally into getting a custom hat made at some point, but pretty sure none of the fine masters around here will do it for anywhere near the 160 I’m paying for the Premier.

The whole of the hat group here on TFL is discussion of vintage, custom and modern manufactured hats. If the style, color, construction and price are what you like, it's a win-win!

Welcome to the Lounge.

 

[belfastboy]

Totally into getting a custom hat made at some point, but pretty sure none of the fine masters around here will do it for anywhere near the 160 I’m paying for the Premier.

Yes, as I mentioned - the full retail - one can get a custom hat. $160 is a good deal.

 

[glider]

When I clean a used hat, I start with packing tape, I wrap it around my hand sticky side exposed and pat the hat down. You will need to change the tape a few times probably. You will be surprised how well that works. then I will go with a hat sponge and cleaning powder, you can order that, and a real hat store will probably have it in stock. You may or may not need a stain/spot remover at this point. The last thing I do is steam and shape the hat and give it a good brush. I'm going to be the devil's advocate when it comes to custom hats, I think there are some very nice production hats available, and you can usually try them on before you purchase to see how they look and fit. Of course, you do need access to an actual hat store. I suppose it comes down to how deep your pockets are and your location.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

When I clean a used hat, I start with packing tape, I wrap it around my hand sticky side exposed and pat the hat down. You will need to change the tape a few times probably. You will be surprised how well that works. then I will go with a hat sponge and cleaning powder, you can order that, and a real hat store will probably have it in stock. You may or may not need a stain/spot remover at this point. The last thing I do is steam and shape the hat and give it a good brush. I'm going to be the devil's advocate when it comes to custom hats, I think there are some very nice production hats available, and you can usually try them on before you purchase to see how they look and fit. Of course, you do need access to an actual hat store. I suppose it comes down to how deep your pockets are and your location.

Good points. Right now, there isn’t a hat in the Stetson, Resistol, or Dobbs catalogs that I’m interested in at anywhere near their prices. The couple open crown hats still around are nice, but they are either too small (brim and crown), or too expensive (western open crown hats). If you can get a fur felt custom hat for the same or nominally more than a mass produced hat…well, that’s what I do. Of course you have to know what you want and know your size to make a long distance custom hat work, but I’ve ordered custom hats from at least eight hatters and I haven’t met one of them in person yet.

 

[belfastboy]

In my time here in The Lounge it seems to me there is a common arc to one's hat experience. A beginning with the more accessible price wise hats, Akubra, etc, perhaps lower crowns, narrower brims. Then a step up in quality/price to a Stetson and/or even a step into the world of vintage. Taller crowns, wider brims become part of the exploration as we become more comfortable wearing hats. Then at some point the next step is taken into the world of custom hats. Once we get a clearer idea of our 'sweet spot' of hat dimensions/proportions a move into a custom is logical in order to get exactly what we want. The range of price points for a custom hat is very wide...from $225 up to/over $1200.....depending on what the market will bear for that particular hatter.....even more $$$ if we include the western hat makers.

We are all using much the same raw product as there are not that many felt producers left in the world so our choice of felts is limited. I think the world of hats is diverse. Having such a wide range of choices gives us all a place to land somewhere in the big world of hat choice.

 

[glider]

Well not only do folks have different taste that changes with time. I'm happy with some of Stetsons Royal Deluxe hats and they are usually between 2 and 2 fifty, is it possible to order a custom hat for that? My taste in felt may not be as refined as some guys and maybe that's not a bad thing. I might be better off not knowing what I'm missing LOL.

 

[belfastboy]

Well not only do folks have different taste that changes with time. I'm happy with some of Stetsons Royal Deluxe hats and they are usually between 2 and 2 fifty, is it possible to order a custom hat for that? My taste in felt may not be as refined as some guys and maybe that's not a bad thing. I might be better off not knowing what I'm missing LOL.

Yes, in that price range a custom hat can be had......for just a few dollars more....stretch it to $275 and you have a choice from a larger number of custom hatters. The price points for custom hats is very broad.....materials pretty much the same but like most creative endeavours it is what the 'name' of the hatter can command price wise.

 

[Norm DePlume]

Well not only do folks have different taste that changes with time. I'm happy with some of Stetsons Royal Deluxe hats and they are usually between 2 and 2 fifty, is it possible to order a custom hat for that? My taste in felt may not be as refined as some guys and maybe that's not a bad thing. I might be better off not knowing what I'm missing LOL.

You've actually hit on one of my biggest fears, i.e. that once I learn a little more about the characteristics of "quality" hats, I'll no longer be able to enjoy hats that I'm currently pretty happy with. I've already gone through that with other obsessions, such as vintage brass instruments and gourmet sneakers, and the result is always the same: spending irresponsible amounts of dough. Fortunately I'm a pretty good at spotting a deal once I know what to look for. But I'm not nearly there yet with hats. On the other hand, if anybody wants to know if that minty $3,000 1949 Martin Committee trumpet is a good buy, I'm your guy.

 

[Mighty44]

Did it belong to Miles?

 

[Norm DePlume]

Did it belong to Miles?

That would be the $50,000 Committee. The $3,000 one belonged to Mickey "Da Lip" Shmendrickson of Muskegon, Michigan.

 

[ProfCharles]

Hey y’all

Does anyone still use a wind trolley/cord?

I’m contemplating removing it from my Sand CD since I wouldn’t be wearing it with a suit where it could go on.

Has anyone removed theirs? Is there a specific way to do so?

thanks

 

[Norm DePlume]

The Stratoliner has different blocking and a narrower brim and a different flange. It’s a great hat in its own right, but it’s quite a bit different that the OR or Campdraft. I think the narrower brim is your biggest obstacle as you can steam in more brim width If can look great with a cattleman’s crease, but it doesn’t have a lot of crown height so you might need to adjust it. Of course this now gives you the perfect excuse to add an OR sometime in the future.

Turns out I probably won't be going that cattleman route with the Premier Strat after all. OR in my size magically reappeared on the Outland site at the very low price of 139, so I nabbed one before they vanish again. I'm still getting the Strat too, but I'll do something more typically Stratlike with it. Looking forward to developing some rudimentary bashing skills playing around with the open crown.