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Well I s'poze this is the spot to both ask for, and maybe even receive, advice...
Mr. deadlyhandsome, you appear to have amassed a sizeable collection of felts over your tenure in this joint. Ive been looking at going the custom route for a new hat, and would love your take on the makers out there, such as the quality v price ratio.
Here's some context:
I currently live in my modified akubra fedora (size 60), a regency fawn coloured one that was a replacement that was made for me by Akubra. ( I had the brim trimmed to 2 1/4, as it suits my profile better) I initially bought one new in the fall of 2019, but had a severe fault in the structure of the sweat (it was stitched in askew and off center, to the point that after a month of wearing the hat warped)
I love the replacement hat, and wear it all the time. Like pants for the head, and would feel naked without it.
I have been looking to get a similar hat for warmer weather travel, and been seeking a lighter weight felt. My living in Canada, I started by looking to Leon Drexler as a starting point. I reached out to Stephen but he has since retired this year. So I have to look further afield, and I know of no other canadian custom hatters.
Basically I am looking for a felt hat that is strong enough for travel, robust enough to handle the elements, and light enough for summer wearing or hot climates. Mikael at hufvud wrote to me that a beaver blend would be best suited, as its dense enough, but more flexible than pure beaver.
Well, you have some recent detailed opinions of some of the custom hatters (Hufvud, Hornskov, Agnoulita, or others...)
How do you find they all compare? I am partial to the idea of the 50x re-shapable felts I saw online for Hornskov, but I am unsure of the ribbon work. Im not fond of the rough scalloped trim of petersham.
Likewise, I've been looking at Hufvud, as he too uses a 50x fepsa blend, but I am less keen on the stove-pipe blocking. He does have a vintage 52s block, though) And then there was Agnoulita, who has listed both a hat named in your honour, and one named in honour of this site, though he does not appear to carry that 50x felt, rather rabbit or hare.
Anyhoo, I know it's long missive, but I would love to hear your perspective in comparing these makers. Likewise, if you know of any comparable hatters more local...(i just read further up that belfastboy from vancouver hats folk)
Cheers
Welcome to the rabbit hole!
I think you are on the right track with the 50X FEPSA. I believe Hornskov can make you a hat with non-petersham ribbon for a reasonable up charge. I believe they have some Japanese silk ribbon, but make certain that they know exactly what you want and what you will not accept. If Hufvud offers a 52 block in your size that’s also a great option and no worry about the ribbon. Aside from the ribbon issue, there isn’t much to choose between the two.
Agnoulita is a whole different matter. His hats can be decent, but even his best have small issues. His ribbon is a woven edge (good), but it’s all synthetic (not so good). They are more like customizable Akubras rather than fine custom hats. I have a place for them in my collection, but I’ve also sold half of the hats I commissioned as their faults outweighed other considerations.
For a fine 100% beaver fedora I’d go with Gannon with Winchester felt over the others using FEPSA. I like lots of other hatter too, but Gannon is at the top of quality and less than the top of price. I don’t know if Gannon can get 50X FEPSA, but that’s a thought. If you want to try out a new hatter from The Great White North you should send a PM to @belfastboy his work has been solid and as he is learning the trade his prices are outstanding.
Back to felt, the FEPSA 50X is outstanding. It’s not as clay-like as some videos show it, but mine’s close. I’m seriously considering another. This felt is better than Winchester’s at taking knocks and tumbles without showing the abuse and would make a great travel hat. I think that for stiffer western felt the 100% beaver or nutria is the way to go, but aside from the 50X not being as thin as the 100X the I prefer the 50X for a fedora. The wildcard is the 100% nutria felts in dress-weight. I think it’s going to be an outstanding option, but my first custom using it is still in the works with @belfastboy
I asked Art before he retired if he had any more of his lightweight felts left and he said they were long gone. I don’t know that Winchester is offering them anymore. David’s work at VS is great, and he has some 100X FEPSA, but I don’t know that he has access to 50X.
Good luck, and let us know what you decide. I’m thinking hard about a Gannon in dress-weight nutria for my next commission.
Brent