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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,354
Location
Mexico City
Trust me, I've caught that grief too, especially from one particular Lounger who doesn't post much here anymore. Every time I did a conversion he would chime right in and try to shame me for converting Stagecoaches. I had to remind him, a few times, who those hats belonged to. On the other hand, with some nice older vintage hats that come my way and that definitely need a lot of work, I think more about refurbishing and restoring them to as close to original as I possibly can rather than converting. With that said, it's nobody's place to tell someone else what to do with their own property.
Gracias, Terry. Keep 'em going!
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,835
I'm not going there, but I believe the real grief you got was from the big heads for downsizing a couple larger sizes of vintage hats.

Plus, I don't believe I came out to play during that discussion. You were getting beat up enough w/o me joining in!
Exactly.
IMO most times it’s best to let sleeping dogs lie and don’t pick at a bandage.
It only took me one ex-wife to figure that out. YMMV
B
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,789
Location
Central Ohio
I concur. I lose brim width when I use my very square shouldered, straight sided (Boss o t Plains)block where as I am not likely to lose it using my domed/tapered block.
Yes. Definitely. Everyone's seen the block shape I use, which is literally vertical and tall. Completely changing out the original open crown profile is going to make changes in the brim width.
 

JamesC

Familiar Face
Messages
59
Location
Arkansas
I am looking at a hat Stetson 4" crown 2 3/4" brim the size tag is square black with hat size gold my understandings these tag were somewhere between 1960 to 1971? Is that correct
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I am looking at a hat Stetson 4" crown 2 3/4" brim the size tag is square black with hat size gold my understandings these tag were somewhere between 1960 to 1971? Is that correct


No. The exact dates have not be determined as far as I know, but Stetson continued to use a version of the keyhole size tag, albeit with complete sizing and not just the fraction, well into the 1960s. The black rectangular size tag with just US sizing (no metric sizes) was used well into the 1970s and possibly even later.
 

Larry Kurucz

New in Town
Messages
2
Newbie here with a question. I can't find any info on this hat company HummingBird Felt Hats. This hat is my wife's grandfather's hat he was born in 1876. Any info would be appreciated.
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Newbie here with a question. I can't find any info on this hat company HummingBird Felt Hats. This hat is my wife's grandfather's hat he was born in 1876. Any info would be appreciated.

Welcome to the Lounge! I hope someone comes up with some info on these. I've seen maybe three in my short time in the hat game. I think @Michael R. has a Humming Bird.

I know I sure wish this one would have fit me:

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Bkdodgers

New in Town
Messages
11
I generally like to wear my hats with the brim snapped down. I have noticed that, I think on all the hats I currently own, the brim in front looks like a beak, essentially - it curves downward in the front. I'd really like it to look like a sharp line and point, if that makes sense, like the hat below. Do I need to look for something different in hats, do something different in my snap? What am I missing? Thanks!

il_fullxfull.1076143949_4ph3.jpg
 
Messages
10,580
Location
Boston area
I generally like to wear my hats with the brim snapped down. I have noticed that, I think on all the hats I currently own, the brim in front looks like a beak, essentially - it curves downward in the front. I'd really like it to look like a sharp line and point, if that makes sense, like the hat below. Do I need to look for something different in hats, do something different in my snap? What am I missing? Thanks!

il_fullxfull.1076143949_4ph3.jpg

Without a photo of the misbehaving hat it’s even more of a guess.

I’m thinking you might prefer a slightly less radiused flange, flatter brim. It’s very current, style-wise.
 
Messages
10,839
Location
vancouver, canada
Without a photo of the misbehaving hat it’s even more of a guess.

I’m thinking you might prefer a slightly less radiused flange, flatter brim. It’s very current, style-wise.
Hard to say without pictures of the offending hats. But as you say it is consistent with your hats perhaps it is a fit question. You could be buying regular oval hats and you are a long oval or even an extreme ov
I generally like to wear my hats with the brim snapped down. I have noticed that, I think on all the hats I currently own, the brim in front looks like a beak, essentially - it curves downward in the front. I'd really like it to look like a sharp line and point, if that makes sense, like the hat below. Do I need to look for something different in hats, do something different in my snap? What am I missing? Thanks!

il_fullxfull.1076143949_4ph3.jpg
Hard to say without pictures of the offending hats but as you say it is consistent with all your hats perhaps it is a fit issue. An ill fitting hat can distort the brim. Do you know if you are a regular oval, long oval or extra long oval? Are your hats regular oval? Once in a while I will get a hat that does not snap down in the way I want it too. I then use steam to shape it how I prefer and then store it in a manner does leaves the brim in that shape. Not preferable to a nicely snapped brim but do what works.
 
Messages
18,185
I generally like to wear my hats with the brim snapped down. I have noticed that, I think on all the hats I currently own, the brim in front looks like a beak, essentially - it curves downward in the front. I'd really like it to look like a sharp line and point, if that makes sense, like the hat below. Do I need to look for something different in hats, do something different in my snap? What am I missing? Thanks!

il_fullxfull.1076143949_4ph3.jpg
What you are describing sounds like what is commonly called a hawksbill & the brim is flanged that way. You see it more commonly is brims 2-3/8 & narrower but can be in brims of 2-1/2 & 2-5/8. The flange is the most common reason unless you have misshapen brims from hats that have been stretched up a size or more.

You didn't say what brim width you prefer but I would recommend a brim at 2-1/2 or up to 2-3/4 with a flatter flange to the brim.
 
Messages
19,413
Location
Funkytown, USA
What you are describing sounds like what is commonly called a hawksbill & the brim is flanged that way. You see it more commonly is brims 2-3/8 & narrower but can be in brims of 2-1/2 & 2-5/8. The flange is the most common reason unless you have misshapen brims from hats that have been stretched up a size or more.

You didn't say what brim width you prefer but I would recommend a brim at 2-1/2 or up to 2-3/4 with a flatter flange to the brim.

The exception proves the rule, I guess. I have a Mallory Dallas with a 2 3/4" brim w/ a pretty good hawksbill.
 

Jacora

Familiar Face
Messages
51
Location
Providence, RI, USA
I am considering using some Red Mahogany shoe polish to slightly darken and change the tone of the Barramundi skin (it's a fish) hat band that came on my Akubra Banjo Peterson. Anyone have a reason why I shouldn't do this? Will the polish bleed on to the felt in the rain? I don't want to hide the light/dark variations in the band - will polish inadvertently make it more uniform?
 

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