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[Bamaboots]

Well thought out and informative response to a difficult to answer question, Jim. Especially without filling it with a lot of subjectivity. And when I thought about responding when I read his question earlier was “it’s kinda like porn, you know it when you see it, or feel it in this case.”

 

[jlee562]

I am kind of new to using finer fedoras and am learning a lot on the lounge. In many threads I see guys describing a hat as having "nice felt".

What are some concrete components of a great felt? When looking at two hats how would you tell if one has good felt and one is not as good?

For me, I kept having my definition of "clay-like" malleability redefined as the hats got older and older. My VS Stetson refurb has the most incredible felt.



No steam needed to put that Diamond in. You push the felt and it stays. My 7xCB is likewise very malleable and can easily be manipulated and re-creased. The ease at which it shapes is the most apparent difference, I think.

We also talk about the tactile feel, or hand of the felt. A hat can feel smooth and plush but not necessarily crease very well. Ideally, you want both. The slightly more coarse texture of Akubra felt becomes more apparent compared to vintage, for example.

Then there's the thickness of the felt. There were many more felt grades available historically, but they were generally thinner and more dense than their modern equivalents. Western weight felts especially.

I think this helps illustrate a little bit of the difference. Watch Wayne's hat in the famous final shot of The Searchers. The right side of the brim is folded up by the wind almost like a slouch hat, but then falls back right into place. Even if you worked a bunch of the stiffener out of a modern felt, the brim is not going to flop in the wind like Wayne's hat does.

Related to thickness is density. It seems more time was spent on the actual felting process back in the day. Mercury processed felt allowed the individual barbs of fur to felt tighter, which resulted in a better end product.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

What are some concrete components of a great felt? When looking at two hats how would you tell if one has good felt and one is not as good?

Can it take creases like this dry, seconds apart?

 

[drmaxtejeda]

1. Quality. Is it dense? Evenly felted? Is the color saturation even and with good depth?
2. Hand. "Hand" is the quality of the felt as it feels in your hand. Is it soft, smooth, evenly pounced? (Pouncing is the act of sanding the hat to achieve it's finish)
3. Response. How does it respond to manipulation? This is especially true of open crown hats, as most new hats have a pressed crown. Quality vintage felt is often described as "molds like clay." Easy to put a crease in or manipulate. Great felts from vintage hats will often do whatever you want without steam or anything to assist in the process.

To understand these in detail, you will have to handle many hats, newer and vintage, and compare them with each other. Most of us develop an appreciation for the felt qualities over time as we acquire and experience different hats. It's just one of those things that, "you'll understand when you get there," I guess.

Very well put, Jim

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[Frunobulax]

Well thought out and informative response to a difficult to answer question, Jim. Especially without filling it with a lit of subjectivity. And when I thought about responding when I read his question earlier was “it’s kinda like porn, you know it when you see it, or feel it in this case.”

Very well put, Jim

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

Thanks. All good answers and even some good illustrations by HJ and Jared. It really is an experience thing though, isn't it?

Probably my first "molds like clay" hat was an early 50s Stetson 3X dress hat I found on the bay. It's thick and dense, with a nice velvety hand. Creases like a dream. But then later, I've gotten my hands on some felts that are dense, responsive, and tissue thin (although I don't consider thin better, just different). Some of them are just bloody amazing.

 

[Headpatrolman]

I have just had this experience with a 50's era stingy brim Portis I've acquired. The felt is velvety smooth and a good density. It came to me with a center dent but it looked like it had been crunched up a couple of times. I opened the crown back up, smoothed it out and easily put a telescope crease into it. The hat now looks almost like a pork pie and it was easily converted with no steam.

 

[Headpatrolman]

Does anyone have any information on L.T. Muench hats? I got one today at an antiques store and don't know much about them. I did a search here and nothing comes up. A google search turns up some entries in the american hatter from the early 1900's but this hat does not look like it can be that old. Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Still looking for any information on L.T. Muench hatters. Again all I can find are some entries in the American Hatter from 1916 and an early Philadelphia business listing from 1893. I can't find any information on the business itself or the hats it produced. Thanks

 

[Frunobulax]

I thought Munch was a Sergeant, not an LT.

 

[Headpatrolman]

I thought Munch was a Sergeant, not an LT.

View attachment 205796

I think he did retire as a Lieutenant, if I am not mistaken.

 

[SteveFord]

Is there an actual reason for storing a fedora brim up?

Never mind, I think I got the answer: the brim can develop some sort of weird, mutated shape.

 

[Bill Hughes]

Is there an actual reason for storing a fedora brim up?

Never mine, I think I got the answer: the brim can develop some sort of weird, mutated shape.

Many people store their hats brims down.

 

[David Hill]

I know the consensus most people on here have of Stetsons, but I have a question about one. Does anyone have a Stetson Bogie? I have two Fed IV and was looking for something different.

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[jlee562]

I know the consensus most people on here have of Stetsons, but I have a question about one. Does anyone have a Stetson Bogie? I have two Fed IV and was looking for something different.

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I personally prefer open crown hats, but the Excellent quality felt is the best stuff Stetson has produced in years.

 

[ConnorRundell]

Hey everyone,

I've just came across this forum and decided to join. Mainly because I am becoming more and more facinated with the Fedora hat. I only have one, which you can see in my profile photo. Ive alwasy tried hats on my head in shops and theyve never interested me, maybe its because they feel or look cheap?

So anyway I managed to find a hat that i just felt fantastic wearing, found in a Glasgow vintage shop for £15. I dont know a lot about it, howver I would like to know how to look after the leather sweatband. I bought a vintage hat brush on ebay. And Ive had a go at steaming it into a better shape. Maybe you guys can identify this hat and tell me more about it?

Many thanks,
Connor.
From a freezing Scotland.

 

[belfastboy]

Hey everyone,

I've just came across this forum and decided to join. Mainly because I am becoming more and more facinated with the Fedora hat. I only have one, which you can see in my profile photo. Ive alwasy tried hats on my head in shops and theyve never interested me, maybe its because they feel or look cheap?

So anyway I managed to find a hat that i just felt fantastic wearing, found in a Glasgow vintage shop for £15. I dont know a lot about it, howver I would like to know how to look after the leather sweatband. I bought a vintage hat brush on ebay. And Ive had a go at steaming it into a better shape. Maybe you guys can identify this hat and tell me more about it?

Many thanks,
Connor.
From a freezing Scotland.

There is a very recent thread on treating leather sweatbands. Check back a few days in the 'Hats" section. It contains a ton of great information based on experience with leather sweats in various conditions of health.

Welcome to the Lounge, it is a great place (I know of no better) to learn about the world of fine fedoras.
I was in Glasgow for a week in mid October of last year....loved it. Along with Drumbeg it was the highlight of the trip.

 

[Frunobulax]

Hey everyone,

I've just came across this forum and decided to join. Mainly because I am becoming more and more facinated with the Fedora hat. I only have one, which you can see in my profile photo. Ive alwasy tried hats on my head in shops and theyve never interested me, maybe its because they feel or look cheap?

So anyway I managed to find a hat that i just felt fantastic wearing, found in a Glasgow vintage shop for £15. I dont know a lot about it, howver I would like to know how to look after the leather sweatband. I bought a vintage hat brush on ebay. And Ive had a go at steaming it into a better shape. Maybe you guys can identify this hat and tell me more about it?

Many thanks,
Connor.
From a freezing Scotland.

To give you any insight into your hat, you would need to post some information about it. Like the brand, for starters. Also, you're avatar is about 1.5" x 1.5" so we really can't tell anything about it.

 

[Steve1857]

Hey everyone,

I've just came across this forum and decided to join. Mainly because I am becoming more and more facinated with the Fedora hat. I only have one, which you can see in my profile photo. Ive alwasy tried hats on my head in shops and theyve never interested me, maybe its because they feel or look cheap?

So anyway I managed to find a hat that i just felt fantastic wearing, found in a Glasgow vintage shop for £15. I dont know a lot about it, howver I would like to know how to look after the leather sweatband. I bought a vintage hat brush on ebay. And Ive had a go at steaming it into a better shape. Maybe you guys can identify this hat and tell me more about it?

Many thanks,
Connor.
From a freezing Scotland.

Welcome Connor.
Post photos of your hat from all angles. Post photos of the inside of the hat, too. Sweatband, liner, and any lables. Lots of knowledgeable folks here who can help you out. They just need more to go on.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

 

[ConnorRundell]

There is a very recent thread on treating leather sweatbands. Check back a few days in the 'Hats" section. It contains a ton of great information based on experience with leather sweats in various conditions of health.

Welcome to the Lounge, it is a great place (I know of no better) to learn about the world of fine fedoras.
I was in Glasgow for a week in mid October of last year....loved it. Along with Drumbeg it was the highlight of the trip.

Thank you for this info! Ahh thats great, I'm glad you had a good time

 

[ConnorRundell]

To give you any insight into your hat, you would need to post some information about it. Like the brand, for starters. Also, you're avatar is about 1.5" x 1.5" so we really can't tell anything about it.

Its CR Cooper

 

[ConnorRundell]

Welcome Connor.
Post photos of your hat from all angles. Post photos of the inside of the hat, too. Sweatband, liner, and any lables. Lots of knowledgeable folks here who can help you out. They just need more to go on.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Thanks Steve, I just replied to a comment with 6 photos uploaded! also there is a paper tag inside the sweatband that has printed "Dallas, Norfolk 501"