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Am I correct that his hat is made out of felt ?
Yes, fur felt.
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Am I correct that his hat is made out of felt ?
When installing a sweat, it should be drummed prior. So the sweats in all our hats should be drummed. Whether further drumming would reduce the size I don't know.That Tapatalk post, and the fact I never came back with a question, was to some degree a joke that fell flat. My connection did fail three times that day, and I am going to move on to another question, but it's because I've moved on to something else, not as a raised finger to the Tapatalk app as if that would teach them to drop MY connection.
Drumming sweats. Does anyone here do it?
Is it frowned upon here, because it alters a vintage hat? The only place I ever saw it mentioned was in Ermatinger's Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating book until a few days ago. I stumbled on a blog about buying a top hat. I wasn't shopping for one, but read the article anyway. The writer mentioned having a band drummed when he was discussing used and vintage to hats.
I haven't liked the feel of any hats that I've tried to size down with felt or foam. I also have a Royal Stetson with a wonderful felt. I shaped it last night with a completely different crease, and now I REALLY like it, even though the brim is smaller than I lean toward. It's a size big. This seems like a prime candidate for drumming, and I don't see why I couldn't do it with the sweat in the hat.
Does anyone have feedback?
I know that's the view here from discussions in threads I found even before I registered. You might be the first fellow lounger I heard use that term though. I know I've seen it called "belling", descriptively, and I believe "flaring", but can't remember anyone using the technical "drumming" term. If I did, it was before I read the book so it went right by me.When installing a sweat, it should be drummed prior. So the sweats in all our hats should be drummed. Whether further drumming would reduce the size I don't know.
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Drumming is the word I read assigned to the leather of a sweat being pulled tight, cut shorter than the reed and it's ferule, then stretched around it. I think it was an engineering advancement in hatmaking, like a reeded sweat, but it wasn't used by all hatmakers. I'm using it as a way to reduce the size of a hat by stretching a bit less leather around the same reed.^^^ok i’ll bite. What the heck is “drumming” a sweatband?
B
Here are three of the stores and the brand they sold. I’m sure there are others.
- Brent was the Montgomery Ward brand.
- Marathon was the J.C. Penny brand.
- Pilgrim was the Sears-Roebuck brand.
When installing a sweat, it should be drummed prior. So the sweats in all our hats should be drummed. Whether further drumming would reduce the size I don't know.
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I believe the answer to that Jim is that it depends on the crown you hope to achieve. I thin slipstick is usually the best way to get the felt off, even with a significant taper.This is probably a dumb question, but whattheheck. I'm in the process of making an open crown hat block. How much taper should it have from bottom to top? From past experience doing some patternmaking for casting patterns, it seems like it should have "some"--but how much is enough? I don't want to get it all done, stretch a hat over it, and wind up unable to remove the hat without cutting it off.
How much of a presence was Neiman Marcus beyond the commercial centers? As a middle American, I grew up believing Sears was the standard of trustworthy, reliable retailing. Craftsman tools, for example, were guaranteed for life. How many people actually shopped Marcus West of the Allegheny?Also Churchill Ltd. Hats, while they were available in a limited way in a few men's wear and hat stores (most notably Capper & Capper) were largely exclusive to Neiman Marcus Stores.
M
^^^ok i’ll bite. What the heck is “drumming” a sweatband?
B
Also Churchill Ltd. Hats, while they were available in a limited way in a few men's wear and hat stores (most notably Capper & Capper) were largely exclusive to Neiman Marcus Stores.
M
And Churchill was made by Resistol, no?
Churchill was a part of Byer-Rolnick Hat Corp as was Resistol & Kevin McAndrew.And Churchill was made by Resistol, no?
Can a straw hat be re-blocked?
Or is this an excuse to buy a new hat?
Yes, my understanding is Churchill Hats was bought by Byer-Rolnick in the 1950's. They later added the "Ecuadorean" label to the line by the early 60's ......so that busines card would predate that acquisition. Image is from a 60's stock certificate image online......Churchill was a part of Byer-Rolnick Hat Corp as was Resistol & Kevin McAndrew.
View attachment 174122
View attachment 174123
Pics originally posted by Landman.
Who needs an excuse?Can a straw hat be re-blocked? My straws, like my felts, live in a hat box with wads of tissue paper stuffed inside them. All keep their shape with the exception of one hat. It's got a pregnant bulge around the hat band, like someone has sat on it. My missus made a polystyrene block that she fitted into the hat, left it for a month, took the block out and back came the bulge. Is there anything on the market that could treat the straw in order to make it less flexible? Or is this an excuse to buy a new hat?