Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[tmitchell59]

Oh that's cool information. Thanks Terry!

all the catalogs had this style in their line up post war. Most are just like this one, brown horsehide with big mouton collar with quilted lining.

CSC may have made some for the catalogs, I have suspected Fried-Ostermann as a major supplier in this style. They were sold with their Albert Richard label. the outlined pockets was all the thing in the 1950s.

 

[tmitchell59]

Thanks, Terry. That's what I thought too.

So this jacket is 70 years old, hey. The leather does feels old when I first got it. I'm surprised that it still holds together well. I just wiped and put several coats of Lexol on it. It's back to action now.

Btw, do you mind if I ask about the differences between the green and red Monarch label? Are they from different eras? Or indication of one better than the other?

without diving into the archives and comparing labels/jackets I can't say that the color meant anything. This is the popular post-war Monarch label.

Monarch made as good of outerwear as any maker. they are more tailored than most, of course they are famous for their WWII military jackets.

 

[AHP91]

all the catalogs had this style in their line up post war. Most are just like this one, brown horsehide with big mouton collar with quilted lining.

CSC may have made some for the catalogs, I have suspected Fried-Ostermann as a major supplier in this style. They were sold with their Albert Richard label. the outlined pockets was all the thing in the 1950s.

It's a great look. Doing some reading on these companies now. The mouton collar and dark horsehide against the red lining - they sure knew how to make a nice looking jacket!

 

[Nacho]

without diving into the archives and comparing labels/jackets I can't say that the color meant anything. This is the popular post-war Monarch label.

Monarch made as good of outerwear as any maker. they are more tailored than most, of course they are famous for their WWII military jackets.

I see. Thanks again, Terry.

Here is a pic of the jacket.

It's a civilian bomber. Very similar to your green CSC with the yellow liners you had for sale a while ago. Minus the fur collar. The leather smells really good on this one. Nice and clean designs with nothing extra. Simple yet elegant.

Man, I love these vintage jackets. There's just something cool about them.

 

[tmitchell59]

I see. Thanks again, Terry.

Here is a pic of the jacket.

View attachment 512559

It's a civilian bomber. Very similar to your green CSC with the yellow liners you had for sale a while ago. Minus the fur collar. The leather smells really good on this one. Nice and clean designs with nothing extra. Simple yet elegant.

Man, I love these vintage jackets. There's just something cool about them.

Love that collar!!

 

[KBlake]

The collar looks fine. Great looking jacket!

Thanks!

 

[Monitor]

It's a long shot but anyone capable of ID-ing this German made coat? Astonishingly high quality of both leather and built. Legit 4 kilograms in it.

 

[Nacho]

It's a long shot but anyone capable of ID-ing this German made coat? Astonishingly high quality of both leather and built. Legit 4 kilograms in it.

It looks similar to vintage German police leather coats, with the top 2 front pockets replaced by the 2 handwarmers. I don't know the maker though. German police force probably contracted out to some German/European makers.

OR

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1428596714/80s-german-police-black-leather-peacoat

 

[Observe]

Any way to keep the lining of a jacket from sagging down like this? I have another jacket that does this but not to the extent of this one. Any easy home remedy fix or is this a tailor's job?

 

[semolina_pilchard]

It's a long shot but anyone capable of ID-ing this German made coat? Astonishingly high quality of both leather and built. Legit 4 kilograms in it.

I’m no expert, but it looks similar to a Kriegsmarine coat, I think used by submariners. There’s a wartime one here for reference: https://kriegsmarine-shop.de/en/p/kriegsmarine-leather-jacket-ww2

 

[Canuck Panda]

Any way to keep the lining of a jacket from sagging down like this? I have another jacket that does this but not to the extent of this one. Any easy home remedy fix or is this a tailor's job? View attachment 513455

I get this a lot, especially on the jackets with bigger cuffs. Lining hemorrhoid...

Add two tacking stitch at the top of the inside sleeve where the bodice connects to the sleeve will do the trick. It's not that the lining is too long, just prolapse...

Below jacket doesn't have the prolapse yet just showing the location where the tacking stitch will go to hold up the inside sleeve lining.

There are cases where the sleeves are shortened and the tailor forgot the lining. In those case, you would need to shorten the lining as well.

 

[mumpy]

Anybody know anything about the Japanese brand Klootch Leather Jackets?

I watched this video and did a quick search on this forum but nothing came up.

EDIT: Found the website https://www.klootch.jp/

 

[calvin006]

What is the purpose of kidney panels? I'm learning there are both internal and external. I assume the internal is to prevent lining wear. So what is the purpose of an external? Just aesthetics?

 

[Observe]

I get this a lot, especially on the jackets with bigger cuffs. Lining hemorrhoid...

Add two tacking stitch at the top of the inside sleeve where the bodice connects to the sleeve will do the trick. It's not that the lining is too long, just prolapse...

Below jacket doesn't have the prolapse yet just showing the location where the tacking stitch will go to hold up the inside sleeve lining.

View attachment 513695

There are cases where the sleeves are shortened and the tailor forgot the lining. In those case, you would need to shorten the lining as well.

Thanks. The jacket was a recent acquisition (got it yesterday) and it's not really doing it for me, so I'm probably gonna move it along without bothering to alter it myself.

Those reading who may be interested in a Schott P213 size L, keep your eyes peeled on the classifieds in the coming days.

 

[Monitor]

I’m no expert, but it looks similar to a Kriegsmarine coat, I think used by submariners. There’s a wartime one here for reference: https://kriegsmarine-shop.de/en/p/kriegsmarine-leather-jacket-ww2

Looks a LOT like it! Definitely a repro or something as the details are the exact match, though the one that I got definitely has military feel to it.

Thank you very much for this excellent info.

 

[AHP91]

Anyone have any ideas as to what jacket this might be? Just to note - the main zipper might be a replacement. Thanks!

 

[Observe]

Think I can fix this myself? Got a lot of layers of leather bulking up the inside of my sleeve right at my elbow which I find annoying. I was thinking I could turn the sleeve inside out, open the lining, trim down the excess and then stitch the sleeve lining shut again. Anyone know if this would be a simple home fix or should I take it to a tailor? Issue doesn't happen on other sleeve.

Note I would not actually be doing anything with the leather besides cutting off the excess, no leather sewing, only the sleeve lining.

Pics show the problem area from the outside, where the multiple pieces of leather join up, from the inside, and a pic to show how thick it is where all the layers join up.

Update: I dropped it off at the local tailor who said it would be a quick and easy fix.

 

[newtojackets]

Does anyone have an experience with Falcon Garments? What is their quality like?

I first heard of this brand before my Fedora Lounge days, where people on other forums would rave about the brand. But how would this compare to the higher standards set here on TFL?

 

[Mrkurtz]

Jacket Stretching
I recently got a cross zip, which has a 22 inch pit to pit which is very reasonable for me. I know people say the shoulder measurement is not very important in a jacket but this has a 17 inch shoulder. It leaves me feeling pinched on my upper body when I move . so I’ve decided to enlarge it. I just want a17.5 to 18 inch shoulder.
I have read the threads on getting the leather good and wet and wearing it while wet and stuffing it with towels. The talk is about the water lubricating the fibers in the leather to allow it to stretch. However, when I have something to lubricate so one surface can slide across another I use oil or grease, not water. Do you think it would be better to hit it with a good dose of Obenaufs leather oil to get it to stretch? Would the oil work better than water? I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this approach before I jump in the swimming pool.

 

[AHP91]

Jacket Stretching
I recently got a cross zip, which has a 22 inch pit to pit which is very reasonable for me. I know people say the shoulder measurement is not very important in a jacket but this has a 17 inch shoulder. It leaves me feeling pinched on my upper body when I move . so I’ve decided to enlarge it.
I have read the threads on getting the leather good and wet and wearing it while wet and stuffing it with towels. The talk is about the water lubricating the fibers in the leather to allow it to stretch. However, when I have something to lubricate so one surface can slide across another I use oil or grease, not water. Do you think it would be better to hit it with a good dose of Obenaufs leather oil to get it to stretch? Would the oil work better than water? I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this approach before I jump in the swimming pool.

don't jump in the pool with the jacket on. maybe someone has alternative methods, but don't jump in the pool unless you're prepared you might ruin it