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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
I have a civilian A2 Deck jacket with cotton jersey lining. If there was a shearling/quilted/alpaca lined one I'd get one already. That's the main thing between the A2 Deck and N-1 for me. The N-1 comes with better quality material by default. Where as most of the A2 Deck jacket went the full synthetic lining route. Personally I prefer the design of the A2 Deck jacket better.
Buzz Rickson made a horsehide version. A bit overpriced for new one. Still waiting for an used one to show up.
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hieu

A-List Customer
Messages
369
Location
Hanoi, Viet Nam
Hey guys, I recently picked up this unlabelled half belt and wanted to ask for some help dating and identifying the maker. The leather is very light and pliable (typical of vintage jackets). To me it looks like a 50s Sears Hercules but the sleeves are a bit different. Let me know what you think!

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zips:

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The bottom of the liner is not sewn onto the leather (possibly for airflow?). I've seen this on a couple other members' Hercules jackets of this style.

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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,324
Hey guys, I recently picked up this unlabelled half belt and wanted to ask for some help dating and identifying the maker. The leather is very light and pliable (typical of vintage jackets). To me it looks like a 50s Sears Hercules but the sleeves are a bit different. Let me know what you think!

View attachment 492170
View attachment 492171
View attachment 492172

zips:

View attachment 492175 View attachment 492176

The bottom of the liner is not sewn onto the leather (possibly for airflow?). I've seen this on a couple other members' Hercules jackets of this style.

View attachment 492177

I'd say it's a 50s sears Hercules made by CSC.

Looks like a combination of these two :

565AFE64-B548-42D0-B396-58E62B7607FD.jpeg
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E10215B0-5E6F-4B79-A749-F24C99D2E300.jpeg
 

lm93

New in Town
Messages
1
I'm new here, and to higher end leather jackets as well. I've a question about biker style leather jackets: How well does a proper fitting one work with layering underneath, like a sweater or fleece hoodie? Not for riding, just love the cross-zip look.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
Hey guys, I recently picked up this unlabelled half belt and wanted to ask for some help dating and identifying the maker. The leather is very light and pliable (typical of vintage jackets). To me it looks like a 50s Sears Hercules but the sleeves are a bit different. Let me know what you think!

View attachment 492170
View attachment 492171
View attachment 492172

zips:

View attachment 492175 View attachment 492176

The bottom of the liner is not sewn onto the leather (possibly for airflow?). I've seen this on a couple other members' Hercules jackets of this style.

View attachment 492177
The lining is very much like a late 40s Hercules, such as Marc posted. These linings faded away with the use of Nylon in the early 1950s

Sears used many suppliers through the year, California Sportswear, Appalachian Tanned and tailored are two that stand out. CSC was producing jacket for Sears from the 30s through the 60s. Appalachian was a major supplier from the late 40s through the 60s. No doubt there were other producers, one in particular I am investigating.

The description of light/pliable leather is apparent in the pictures of this jacket. This is not the leather that California Sportswear ever used to my knowledge, just does not look like their work.

It does look like the work of Appalachian. They used a lighter lower quality leather

This odd ball Hercules is very unusual. The leather is light weight Horsehide and a very Unique back style. It is odd because I do not see this weight of leather in a 50s jacket.


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hieu

A-List Customer
Messages
369
Location
Hanoi, Viet Nam
The lining is very much like a late 40s Hercules, such as Marc posted. These linings faded away with the use of Nylon in the early 1950s

Sears used many suppliers through the year, California Sportswear, Appalachian Tanned and tailored are two that stand out. CSC was producing jacket for Sears from the 30s through the 60s. Appalachian was a major supplier from the late 40s through the 60s. No doubt there were other producers, one in particular I am investigating.

The description of light/pliable leather is apparent in the pictures of this jacket. This is not the leather that California Sportswear ever used to my knowledge, just does not look like their work.

It does look like the work of Appalachian. They used a lighter lower quality leather

This odd ball Hercules is very unusual. The leather is light weight Horsehide and a very Unique back style. It is odd because I do not see this weight of leather in a 50s jacket.
Thanks for the detailed response Terry! That is a really interesting back as you said. How does it affect the fit?

I've been trying to get my hands on a wide variety of jackets to feel out the different makers. So far I haven't gotten the chance to handle a California Sportswear jacket. Appalachian Tanned and Tailored are interesting to me because I've seen many jackets made by them (Oakbrooks/Fieldmasters) but rarely one with their tag.

In terms of jackets that I've handled I probably compare the leather on this Hercules to this Brent Windward G1 I had briefly. Both very soft with a similar texture.

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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
Appalachian labeled jackets came in a variety of styles. They don't show up that often.

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No one produced as many interesting, high quality civilian jackets as California Sportswear. I believe they were the largest producer. Other than the jacket, I know nothing about the company and found nothing so far. They were sold nationwide with private store labels.

You will find a Californian, contact me if you find one or have question. What size do you wear?

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hieu

A-List Customer
Messages
369
Location
Hanoi, Viet Nam
Appalachian labeled jackets came in a variety of styles. They don't show up that often.

View attachment 492984
That Appalachian police is really cool, I've never seen a jacket like it. Feels like it mixes a bunch of different styles together (I especially like the CHP laces). Also that box, wow! I didn't realize jackets were packaged so well back then.

No one produced as many interesting, high quality civilian jackets as California Sportswear. I believe they were the largest producer. Other than the jacket, I know nothing about the company and found nothing so far. They were sold nationwide with private store labels.

You will find a Californian, contact me if you find one or have question. What size do you wear?
I'll definitely shoot you a message when I find a jacket I suspect to be a Californian. I usually wear a sz 36/38. Actually I was in the bidding for your 1930s Californian Goatskin till the end but I was hesitant because I already have a 30s/40s goatskin which I like and wear a lot.
 

ChrisDamned

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
Brittany
Anyone familiar with Lewis Leathers heard of the 'roadfarer'. Seems to be a sub-brand?

Came across it in this listing:

I asked Lewis Leather directly. Good Lewis Leather label but not made in London. Not a 90's look but directly inspired by the "Twin Bronx" model of the 50s.

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And Mine (sheepskin) :
IMG_20230301_204323296~2.jpg
 
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Goel

A-List Customer
Messages
339
More of a general question about vintage wool coats, I've been through a couple different double breasted coat styles (a 1950s peacoat, some kind of danish great coat great coat and most recently a bridge coat). What I've noticed is that all of them seem to have extremely low arm holes, and by extension very baggy sleeves. Even my undersized peacoat that was too tight in the body had this, is this something common on these coats? I was hoping to stick with a vintage coat but I'm not sure if something like that can be adjusted by a tailor.
 
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Khilij

One of the Regulars
Messages
276
Does anyone know if Vanson's custom department is a bit more... put together these days? My previous custom order from them a couple years ago was a bit of a headache so I'm wondering if I should go direct again or if Thurston Bros as a go-between would offer a smoother experience.

Note: The previous jacket I ordered was for my brother, so I would have to take and submit my own measurements. or go through Thurston's fit jacket program.

Thank you for any advice y'all can provide.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
You'd have to go through one of their retailers to get better results. So more expensive. The only thing I was able to get direct from Vanson was for them to custom build me a stocking model that is currently out of stock. Swapping leathers on stocking models didn't get me anywhere on the direct basis.
 

Khilij

One of the Regulars
Messages
276
You'd have to go through one of their retailers to get better results. So more expensive. The only thing I was able to get direct from Vanson was for them to custom build me a stocking model that is currently out of stock. Swapping leathers on stocking models didn't get me anywhere on the direct basis.
Thank you, I appreciate the advice.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,356
Location
claremont california
Friends, I was wondering if any one has a 50's original buco bridle leather belt. I want to see which type of rivet caps were used to hold the belt loops to the belt. Here are some samples I have seen from the net.
Excellent sample original buco belt.JPG
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,868
Location
East Java
do I understand right from this video that Schott japan has a license to produce MTO jacket in wide array of leather options and hardware color, zipper tape color and even option to remove chest pocket or epaulette?
 

Gypsymoth82

A-List Customer
Messages
341
Location
Ottawa
Friends, who makes custom Mouton Collars? I want to have one made for my 50's Buco. I think I want to do Black. I know that the RMC aren't compatible, which is good because they are bloody expensive.

So maybe custom? Anyway, any help is appreciated.

Cheers
 

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