Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[torfjord]

Why would there be any “games” about it?
Someone could just post about said tanning in northern Italy and what it’s like without trying to fling shit.

Well, you know, because what does “best” even mean? Anyone using that term is either trying to promote their own products in some way or they simply don’t know what they’re talking about. Why? Because there is no “best leather”. It all depends on what you want from it and your subjective preferences. Some like cxl as heavy as they can get it. Others prefer thinner and more supple leathers. Some like variation in grain and colour and for leather to show wear. Some prefer uniformity in colour. I can go on. But i think I’ve got my point across.

 

[Mich486]

Talking of jerky...I’ve got my Hooch Hauler in 2019 in seal from what I understand was one of the first few batches using the “new jerky formula”. I assume this is the one they are still using. At the time I was told this was engineered to fade faster although I find the process not silly fast. After 1 and half year the areas that lost the top coat are just the edges on the cuffs and a few seams.

I like it. It’s thicker than the Vicenza I handled (~2017) but more supple, as in less crispy and a touch more spongy. Think about a leather where creases are hard to set. The grain is pretty good and I like the shade of brown more than the brown CXL Aero has on offer (it’s a touch darker). It’s a solid option although rarely seen.

 

[dlite90]

Well, you know, because what does “best” even mean? Anyone using that term is either trying to promote their own products in some way or they simply don’t know what they’re talking about. Why? Because there is no “best leather”. It all depends on what you want from it and your subjective preferences. Some like cxl as heavy as they can get it. Others prefer thinner and more supple leathers. Some like variation in grain and colour and for leather to show wear. Some prefer uniformity in colour. I can go on. But i think I’ve got my point across.

I actually agree (and that applies to everything, not just leather), just thought it was an irrelevant word to get hung up on and I was surprised how much the substance of the post got ignored.

 

[Fonzie]

Talking of jerky...I’ve got my Hooch Hauler in 2019 in seal from what I understand was one of the first few batches using the “new jerky formula”. I assume this is the one they are still using. At the time I was told this was engineered to fade faster although I find the process not silly fast. After 1 and half year the areas that lost the top coat are just the edges on the cuffs and a few seams.

I like it. It’s thicker than the Vicenza I handled (~2017) but more supple, as in less crispy and a touch more spongy. Think about a leather where creases are hard to set. The grain is pretty good and I like the shade of brown more than the brown CXL Aero has on offer (it’s a touch darker). It’s a solid option although rarely seen.

^ This explains my experience with it too, I couldn’t have said it better.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I actually agree (and that applies to everything, not just leather), just thought it was an irrelevant word to get hung up on and I was surprised how much the substance of the post got ignored.

Don't be surprised... you've made an assumption that we ignored the substance of your post. That would depend on which bit you consider to be the 'substance'. I personally can't get past 'the absolute best leather in the world' which is far more arresting that how many Northern Italian villages the leather travels to on its journey to your torso. None of us here seem to run leather tanneries, we sometimes struggle to agree even on what full grain leather actually means. But quality is something we all have an interest in. Someone here may well have heard of this Italian process. I don't recall it ever coming up.

 

[handymike]

I lived for awhile in a Northern Italian town, and my host family owned a tannery. Beautiful stuff, but I don't believe that every step was outsourced.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Newbie searching for confrontation doesn't play very well although it happens from time to time. Thankfully it is most often short lived or nipped in the bud....

 

[Peacoat]

Newbie searching for confrontation doesn't play very well although it happens from time to time. Thankfully it is most often short lived or nipped in the bud....

Yes, I am watching this thread. If it goes off the rails, someone please let me know by PM as I also have a life outside of the Lounge and may miss something. PC

 

[Monitor]

I read online that the absolute best leathers in the world don’t come from a tannery, but each part of the tanning process is sourced to different specialists in northern Italy. That made me raise an eyebrow, I wonder if it’s true and if anyone has experience with such leathers.

There are some great tanneries in Italy, that part is true but mostly all articles and videos using such grandiose proclamations as "best leather" are pure nonsense which I find somehow scary, since these days there are so many platforms where real information can be shared, yet all the research people have done seems to get either ignored or once again, diluted with nonsense.
Best leather for who? Welders? Shoe makers? Saddle makers? Leather gets used in a million different ways. There's no best. There might be a good story to be told, as with anything in fashion and I'm completely down with that. It's what makes it fun.

 

[Mrfrown]

@Superfluous I rode my bicycle wearing my very moto Bates crosszip.

It functioned very well from a position and coverage standpoint.

However, I was biking vigorously and started sweating. The leather of course didn’t breathe. I had to open the jacket up but still got pretty damp in high heat areas.

Which brings me to the point- motorcycle riding is more “sedentary” than bicycling. Depending on how much you’re planning to push yourself on the bike, you should adjust your choices accordingly. Next time I consider the Bates it’ll have to be a more leisurely cruise.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

I need some advise... Are there any good arguments against choosing a cotton liner for a Cafe racer style jacket made to measure?

 

[Monitor]

I need some advise... Are there any good arguments against choosing a cotton liner for a Cafe racer style jacket made to measure?

Why would there be? In my opinion and experience, cotton lining is the most perfect choice for a cafe racer.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

Why would there be? In my opinion and experience, cotton lining is the most perfect choice for a cafe racer.

Good to hear... I couldn't really find any good argument against either, but most manufacturers seem to choose a viscose/silk lining... Made me second guess myself.

 

[handymike]

I prefer sateen or another slippery fabric on a tight fitting jacket.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

I prefer sateen or another slippery fabric on a tight fitting jacket.

Arrgh... Now I am all confused again How about cotton trunk lining for durability with sateen arms for smooth movement?

 

[handymike]

That would be optimal. I have drill in the arms of my Premier Highwayman, but would much prefer a smooth fabric. The lining on my vintage CR is silk or something like it, and it’s heavenly to slip on. I suppose it really depends on what you value more- durability or feel. I live in California, so I often wear short sleeve t shirts with my jackets. The feel of my sleeve lining is important to me.

 

[Jin431]

@Superfluous I rode my bicycle wearing my very moto Bates crosszip.

It functioned very well from a position and coverage standpoint.

However, I was biking vigorously and started sweating. The leather of course didn’t breathe. I had to open the jacket up but still got pretty damp in high heat areas.

Which brings me to the point- motorcycle riding is more “sedentary” than bicycling. Depending on how much you’re planning to push yourself on the bike, you should adjust your choices accordingly. Next time I consider the Bates it’ll have to be a more leisurely cruise.

Looks like @Superfluous was using an ebike so that might have helped a little.

That's actually a pretty cool way to wear a leather jacket

 

[jglf]

Arrgh... Now I am all confused again How about cotton trunk lining for durability with sateen arms for smooth movement?

My favorite combo was cotton drill in the body and sateen in the sleeves.

 

[oskar]

New question: Does himel bros send out leather samples and what is the best way to reach out to them?
I asked them for samples via mail (2 times) and on instgram (1 time) and they did not respond at all.

 

[Kubatu]

For those who have used Great Leather, how long has it typically taken for your jacket to start being worked on? My jacket arrived there two weeks ago and Dena let me know she would reach out once it was closer in the queue. I'm fine with the wait and am in no hurry, but I was also curious what the general turnaround usually is since this is my first time actually using a leather service.