Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Marc mndt]

I owned one of these. The pattern / sizing was kind of weird. Even though the ptp was spot on for me, everything else was too big / too long. But maybe that was because it was an OTR Levi's and Levi's made weird sizing decisions?

 

[Pandemic]

I owned one of these. The pattern / sizing was kind of weird. Even though the ptp was spot on for me, everything else was too big / too long. But maybe that was because it was an OTR Levi's and Levi's made weird sizing decisions?

View attachment 437064 View attachment 437065

Those stock sizing numbers are definitely weird - big shoulders, slim chest, short jacket with long sleeves. I think maybe that’s why Julie has been very generous in offering to modify the stock pattern to my needs.

 

[Damon141]

My thoughts on zippers:
A zipper is a part that primarily has to work well over a long time. There is nothing more annoying than fumbling around for minutes and threading so that the zipper closes well and / or does not break.

The best zippers I have had over the years are/were YKK, RiRi and those of my Lewis Leather jackets.
Also the Fake Talons of fivestar fulfill their purpose quite well. The durability must still prove, but have there little doubt.

The most beautiful zipper was on my Field Leather jacket. Visually and also from the feel of a dream. From threading and close a nightmare. Get stuck, rough-running and if that was not perfectly threaded to the stop, there was a risk that he opens from below.
Did not matter because I wore the jacket anyway only open.
But with something like this, the most beautiful zipper does not help. Functionality is king.

I would only worry about repro zippers if I was aiming for 100% reproduction. In all other cases, I want a pretty, quality, functional zipper. In 50 years this is then also vintage ;-)

But I'm certainly not a specialist on this subject and I'm just sharing my perspective.

Edit: But if someone knows where to get these pullers in brass or nickel individually, I'll gladly take the tip

View attachment 437048

You mean just the puller/slider?

#10?

 

[MrProper]

You mean just the puller/slider?

#10?

Just the puller... this paper clip thing.
I have never seen this for sale anywhere. I think if you have them, you can easily make them on any zippers, if the size fits.

 

[handymike]

RiRi makes this version

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1059270410/riri-draht-puller-with-3-piece-bata-body

In my limited experience, the RiRi #8 is by far the smoothest zipper I've handled. A real piece of beautiful engineering- if zippers count for that.

 

[Damon141]

Just the puller... this paper clip thing.
I have never seen this for sale anywhere. I think if you have them, you can easily make them on any zippers, if the size fits.

Maybe check with this person because they seem to sell sliders only.https://www.ebay.com/itm/185353228155

I have a fairly expensive order going in with the before mentioned eBay seller, I will contact him and see if he has one laying around. I would not be surprised as he has 100’s of vintage zippers.

 

[JMax]

RiRi makes this version
View attachment 437110
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1059270410/riri-draht-puller-with-3-piece-bata-body

In my limited experience, the RiRi #8 is by far the smoothest zipper I've handled. A real piece of beautiful engineering- if zippers count for that.

I have a RiRi 8 and 10 zip laying around. I’m kinda hoping for zipper failures on two of my jackets with OG vtg 5 talons so that I can have Dena install them lol. Awesome zips.

 

[Damon141]

Help me out please guys.

Do I use #3 or #5 chain pulls for front pockets?

Also for a cafe racer that I’m trying to make unique
I was thinking this #10 brass Conmar Paperclip (about $50)
Or on eBay there is a #5 large tab Conmatic
But it’s really expensive $120

Then lastly I’m trying to decide between these two for the sleeve zippers, I know they will have to be shortened and dyed.

 

[Tec]

Anyone ever come across shoulder gussets that curl/twist? It’s only on the right shoulder, almost seems like the gusset material was either sewn in crooked or it warped over time.

The gusset leather seems to want to push itself out, which is what’s causing the seam to curl up (jacket is not too small — no pulling on the back/chest/shoulder/etc).

It’s a Johnson Leather’s jacket.

 

[Monitor]

Anyone ever come across shoulder gussets that curl/twist? It’s only on the right shoulder, almost seems like the gusset material was either sewn in crooked or it warped over time.

The gusset leather seems to want to push itself out, which is what’s causing the seam to curl up (jacket is not too small — no pulling on the back/chest/shoulder/etc).

It’s a Johnson Leather’s jacket.

View attachment 437317
View attachment 437318
View attachment 437319

Often but I don't have a cure for it.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Could be a couple factors.

Elastic band is losing tension. Basically the elastic pulls those parts in, giving it a tuck. As you expand your back/shoulders, the elastic is supposed to give some so you get further extension.

Could just be the leather curling up. Either normal wear and tear, or the gussets were over stressed over time.

Could be human error in sewing in originally. I had to deconstruct a Cal jacket I had once that had same issue. It was way off when comparing one side symmetry to the other. Again, the goal is to have the elastic perfectly taut so it's keeping everything tidy in a natural hanging position. As you move around, the elastic is supposed to give within limits of course and then return everything in order. But that resting state is trickier than you think and more importantly, the elastic over time just wears down.

 

[handymike]

Looks like the elastic might be too tight/ or loose. You gotta open up the seams in the armpit to adjust/ fix it. Then sew it back up.

 

[Will Zach]

I

Help me out please guys.

Do I use #3 or #5 chain pulls for front pockets?
View attachment 437136 View attachment 437137

Also for a cafe racer that I’m trying to make unique
I was thinking this #10 brass Conmar Paperclip (about $50)
Or on eBay there is a #5 large tab Conmatic
But it’s really expensive $120
View attachment 437139 View attachment 437140
Then lastly I’m trying to decide between these two for the sleeve zippers, I know they will have to be shortened and dyed.
View attachment 437141 View attachment 437142

I have never seen a #3 zip anywhere on a jacket - that is just 3 mm wide zipped, too narrow imo. I'd go with #5. #3 is good for a fly - maybe...

For main zip, I like beefy #10s. The one with paperclip looks cool. Others like #5 for main - feel #10 is overkill and attracts attention away from the jacket. In any case, I hope you are talking to @photo2u about your project - guy has lots of zippers and experience to match.

 

[photo2u]

Maybe check with this person because they seem to sell sliders only.https://www.ebay.com/itm/185353228155

I have a fairly expensive order going in with the before mentioned eBay seller, I will contact him and see if he has one laying around. I would not be surprised as he has 100’s of vintage zippers.

Those are Bad quality reproductions

 

[photo2u]

My thoughts on zippers:
A zipper is a part that primarily has to work well over a long time. There is nothing more annoying than fumbling around for minutes and threading so that the zipper closes well and / or does not break.

The best zippers I have had over the years are/were YKK, RiRi and those of my Lewis Leather jackets.
Also the Fake Talons of fivestar fulfill their purpose quite well. The durability must still prove, but have there little doubt.

The most beautiful zipper was on my Field Leather jacket. Visually and also from the feel of a dream. From threading and close a nightmare. Get stuck, rough-running and if that was not perfectly threaded to the stop, there was a risk that he opens from below.
Did not matter because I wore the jacket anyway only open.
But with something like this, the most beautiful zipper does not help. Functionality is king.

I would only worry about repro zippers if I was aiming for 100% reproduction. In all other cases, I want a pretty, quality, functional zipper. In 50 years this is then also vintage ;-)

But I'm certainly not a specialist on this subject and I'm just sharing my perspective.

Edit: But if someone knows where to get these pullers in brass or nickel individually, I'll gladly take the tip

View attachment 437048

Excellent zippers can be made. However, not everyone is willing to pay for the price of the product. During the ww II and Korea, quality zippers was a necessity. In the late 60s and trough the 80s there were some excellent nickel plated #10 zippers being produce. I have some in some vansons. The function good but the finish turns black from handlining. Also the tape is weak and they fail mainly due to user carelessness.
Please pm me, I might be able to help.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I’m finalizing specs for an Aero Rockafella order. It’s been fantastic being able to talk directly with Julie on Insta to get her advice!

Before I hit the button, I just want to run it past the Lounge to see what you think about the measurements and details.

Blackened brown Vicenza with a satin or cotton lining. Brown thread. Inside pocket on the lining (not leather). Request extra grainy hide.

Here is a reference pic of the Rockafella, worn by our own @Canuck Panda:

View attachment 437053 View attachment 437054

The stock 38 pattern measurements are:

Body 25.5”
Sleeve 25.5”
Shoulder 19.5 “
Pit to pit 20.75”

And for reference, here is me in a Field jacket with the following numbers:

Shoulder 17.5
Pit to pit 20.5
Hem 18.5
Back 25.5
Sleeve 24

(The jeans are a bit low-rise and have since been ditched for higher waist jeans)

View attachment 437056 View attachment 437058

Based on this and the different style of the Rocka, I’m thinking:

Bring the shoulders in an inch to 18.5”. They do have some padding for structure, but Julie can use a slimmer pad if I request it.

Add an inch to the body, to 26.5” for a longer length to match this style.

Reduce sleeves to 24” or 24.5”. This will still be a little longer than the FL due to longer shoulder, but is in keeping with the style maybe?

What do you all think?

Rockafella is a great choice!

Blacken brown vicenza is a good choice. Basically Italian teacore. The one I have is a bit stiffer than the similar teacore leather from Japan though. Like denim.

The Rockafella pads are sewn into the leather shell. And I would suggest to use thinner pads like you mentioned.

This is a very slim jacket. Will fit different than FL X-zip. Goodfellas vibes!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Anyone ever come across shoulder gussets that curl/twist? It’s only on the right shoulder, almost seems like the gusset material was either sewn in crooked or it warped over time.

The gusset leather seems to want to push itself out, which is what’s causing the seam to curl up (jacket is not too small — no pulling on the back/chest/shoulder/etc).

It’s a Johnson Leather’s jacket.

View attachment 437317
View attachment 437318
View attachment 437319

Hopefully it's just an elastic wear and tear, then it's an easy fix.

 

[Pandemic]

Rockafella is a great choice!

Blacken brown vicenza is a good choice. Basically Italian teacore. The one I have is a bit stiffer than the similar teacore leather from Japan though. Like denim.

The Rockafella pads are sewn into the leather shell. And I would suggest to use thinner pads like you mentioned.

This is a very slim jacket. Will fit different than FL X-zip. Goodfellas vibes!

I’ve nailed down the details pretty much now. The length for this one could work in a wide range - some have suggested going much longer so that it’s more of a sports coat, but I’ve decided to go fairly short to give it more of a Cossack look.

 

[RustyAl]

Hi Guys

I'm new here, I need to ask you guys for your advice and knowledge about these 2 brands Les Hommes and Giuseppe Zanotti. There is not as much info to go on these brands such as other brands. My previous experiences with leather jackets has been with Boda Skins (have 4 leather jackets from them) and Officine Generale (suede jacket from them).

Are these brands any good? How's the quality of these brands?

 

[Al 916]

Welcome Al!

Don't know those I am afraid.

Guys, I have a Vanson chest zipper (pull) problem. It only closes a few teeth then fails. Might be a bit mucky, I will give it a clean however it feels like it is worn/loose. Any wear issues on the model A zip's?

Thanks
Al