Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[willyto]

I think that's the extra material you need on top of the actual chest measurement. It allows you to move your arms.

What we would know as drape in tailoring I guess.

 

[Viking752]

I reached out to Jerri at Schott NYC inquiring about alterations on my jacket, in particular making the sleeves shorter. Has anyone used this service ? and if so, how did it turn out.

 

[Pandemic]

I’m thinking about ordering a black Aero Rockafella soon. My question is about length. I can see this looking cool a bit shorter or longer than a normal jacket. What do you think? Where should this be landing? Same as my other jackets? Or should I focus on the halfbelt and not the opening - getting that to sit around the true waist? Thanks!

 

[3.14nche]

Mine is 63.5cm / 25" long and I'm 1.72m / 5'7
It's an OTR jacket but if I had to have one made I would shave maybe 2 cm to get rid of that wrinkle at the bottom.

 

[Damon141]

Looking for a place to purchase new old stock zippers.

From reading I found a place for the main zippers from that Mash site in Japan but I’m looking for a website that has actual NOS zippers for the chest pockets and sleeves. I’m looking for 30’s zippers for one build (a 30’s sport jacket). and 50’s or 70’s for the cafe racer idea.

The main zipper on the sports jacket will probably be a Talon M-39

The main zipper on the cafe racer will be either that big pull Aluminum Talon you see on Brooks or Beck CR’s or a Paperclip #10 from Crown, Conmar, Scovill, or Talon depending on what I can find.

I was curious if you could point me to a reputable reseller online where I can find some Ball & Chain pocket zippers and a pair of 50’s-60’s zippers for the sleeves.

 

[handymike]

Here is someone selling the sliders with pulls:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185353228155

Here’s a zipper
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756001210

This one is costly, but 43” long
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756002730

 

[Damon141]

Here is someone selling the sliders with pulls:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185353228155

Here’s a zipper
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756001210

This one is costly, but 43” long
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756002730

Thank you.
I’ve seen this guy but I was wondering if his prices are reasonable, truth is I’m not sure what makes some so expensive.
Like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/323994820593?hash=item4b6f989ff1:g:6FEAAOSwaTtd4U3M

I was also wondering why no maker uses these that were standard on most chest pockets on many different brands

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133740493445?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110011&algo=HOMESPLICE.DISCLISTINGS&ao=1&asc=20191002092920&meid=d330f62d0f694f9ebd561a92e081bdb1&pid=101096&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=323756002730&itm=133740493445&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2332490&algv=default&_trksid=p2332490.c101096.m3021&amdata=cksum:133740493445d330f62d0f694f9ebd561a92e081bdb1|enc:AQAHAAAA4OF5%2BpTTB9eWzF1iVTnQDCvNR%2Bj5zLboPRFORXtsw8rjlNftRJ3CKzcVEK4sui2MT3fwlQJ9Wx33I2iXMAQfkTCx5dLrlVITPeGbC%2BD%2FHWmsIpvXrCkUIDHHm4Lv1vJ6nISjzHVLtkBFvqA8W%2BPaybSZRM2wi%2BnKN6M3tzgagaJHrXVv5m16Su904pQuyMPmv51Ff41WCwioKQx4piIaaPiOT7p2RNiwRdfNYirc6OQkAelW9qRliUY6Ugga2x%2F3sj31nTHPHteLAaSMq8ydf9Z0G5UZajkwZ9ZNiH1ba8Nw|ampidL_CLK|clp:2332490

I was going to buy this for a 30’s sport coat

https://www-mash--japan-co-jp.trans...l=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

Then either this https://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/cgi-bin/prd-eng.cgi?itemno=95-03-6030&ck=
Or this for the cafe racer https://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/cgi-bin/prd-eng.cgi?itemno=95-03-6110&ck=
That will depend on the design I go for. If o go with the big pull talon I do wonder which will be more reliable, the one above or one of those crazy expensive ones on eBay. I just don’t have the proper knowledge to know what makes one more expensive than the others. Beside the M39 talon which I read up on.

And if I go with the paperclip style for one jacket, for reliability im trying to figure out which to go with between the Scovil, Crown, Talon etc.

Edit: and Ofcourse I haven’t lost my mind to consider putting a $300 zipper on a repro jacket but I wouldn’t mind spending $50-100 on the main zipper if it makes it more special atleast to me. Still have not seen ball and chain old stock

 

[handymike]

I used a MASH M-39 on my GW Imperial.

 

[Damon141]

I used a MASH M-39 on my GW Imperial.

Was it worth it to you?
I would love to see the link to your Imperial, beautiful jacket. If I keep this hobby after the 3 jackets I’m waiting on, a Hercules or Monarch half belt will be my next.

The more I read the more I turn into a nerd on this stuff but i figured if I am going to build my ultimate jackets then I might as well go all the way and furnish NOS zippers even if nobody will know but us.

I’m going to modify an Idaho into a 30’s sport coat and the M—39 will be perfect for it.

Then since the Route 66 is a cafe racer and will see time on the bike I was going to go with a beefier zipper for the main pull.


I still want to find a set of ball & chain NOS zippers and good sleeve zippers, I don’t have a problem mixing brands just as long as they are old.

 

[JMax]

@photo2u may have some to sell you.

Another way to source the zippers is to find cheap old jackets with the zips you want. Tape strength may vary.

 

[handymike]

Was it worth it to you?
I would love to see the link to your Imperial, beautiful jacket. If I keep this hobby after the 3 jackets I’m waiting on, a Hercules or Monarch half belt will be my next.

The more I read the more I turn into a nerd on this stuff but i figured if I am going to build my ultimate jackets then I might as well go all the way and furnish NOS zippers even if nobody will know but us.

I’m going to modify an Idaho into a 30’s sport coat and the M—39 will be perfect for it.

Then since the Route 66 is a cafe racer and will see time on the bike I was going to go with a beefier zipper for the main pull.


I still want to find a set of ball & chain NOS zippers and good sleeve zippers, I don’t have a problem mixing brands just as long as they are old.

I love having a special zipper on my only custom jacket.
Go for it!

 

[Damon141]

I love having a special zipper on my only custom jacket.
Go for it!

Is 15,000 JPY or $110 usd plus shipping an acceptable price for the M39?

To your knowledge, is aluminum an acceptable material for the Talon #5 with the big pull tab?
He has brass too, trying to pick the safer option. I’ll also have to contact him to have him explain the price differences for seemingly the same 1970’s zipper as they range from $35 to over $300. (Don’t worry I’ll definitely let him keep those $300 ones)

 

[handymike]

I have both a brass Talon and an aluminum one- both good. I scored the brass on dark green tape for my Brooks if ever I change it out. I wouldn’t pay over $40 for those. The Mash ones are more expensive than in 2014...I think I paid around $75-80 shipped back then.

 

[photo2u]

Here is someone selling the sliders with pulls:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185353228155

Here’s a zipper
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756001210

This one is costly, but 43” long
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323756002730

I will not use the repro sliders in any jack due to quality.

The second link with the Aluminum teeth should never be use in a leather jacket. Terrible plastic tabs and man made fabric.

The last cotton tape is the best of the bunch.

Friend, all zipper sellers know what they have. They will not sell a good zip for cheap. Sometimes you might find a "regular" none zipper or fabric seller that will sell you a nice zip for cheap.

A "bell" shaped talon zipper is to me a good choice for 50-80s jackets. When choosing a good zip, the tape's fabric is a good indicator of the quality. Buy the type that is made out of WOOL. When possible, stay away from aluminum. In some light jackets, #10 aluminum will do the trip, but I personally will not use them.
These days, it is expensive to have a zip replace.

 

[handymike]

I bow to your zipper knowledge and experience.

What do you think of this seller's offerings?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...sa&_dmd=2&_oac=1&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562

 

[Damon141]

Has anyone ever considered using vintage fabric for lining a new jacket?

You can’t help but notice it the numerous 70 year old jackets with intact linings. Then you see jackets just a few years old with linings starting to show holes.

I know there are countless variables to consider when making that comparison, like whether that vintage jacket was hidden away for most of its life, many new jackets that have linings that may look nice but not be appropriate for a long life in a heavy leather jacket. Like the flannel and blanket type linings.
But it’s obvious from just the vintage clothing market and even as early as 80’s where T-shirt’s are still prized due to their construction. I’m sure good fabric is available today at a price but it seems that older fabric was universally good quality.

So for the cost of refining a jacket would it be worth it to look into something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323777118738?hash=item4b629ec212:g:FYYAAOSwFJBZQnVI

 

[handymike]

The MASH M-39 is beautiful.

 

[MrProper]

Was it worth it to you?
I would love to see the link to your Imperial, beautiful jacket. If I keep this hobby after the 3 jackets I’m waiting on, a Hercules or Monarch half belt will be my next.

The more I read the more I turn into a nerd on this stuff but i figured if I am going to build my ultimate jackets then I might as well go all the way and furnish NOS zippers even if nobody will know but us.

I’m going to modify an Idaho into a 30’s sport coat and the M—39 will be perfect for it.

Then since the Route 66 is a cafe racer and will see time on the bike I was going to go with a beefier zipper for the main pull.


I still want to find a set of ball & chain NOS zippers and good sleeve zippers, I don’t have a problem mixing brands just as long as they are old.

My thoughts on zippers:
A zipper is a part that primarily has to work well over a long time. There is nothing more annoying than fumbling around for minutes and threading so that the zipper closes well and / or does not break.

The best zippers I have had over the years are/were YKK, RiRi and those of my Lewis Leather jackets.
Also the Fake Talons of fivestar fulfill their purpose quite well. The durability must still prove, but have there little doubt.

The most beautiful zipper was on my Field Leather jacket. Visually and also from the feel of a dream. From threading and close a nightmare. Get stuck, rough-running and if that was not perfectly threaded to the stop, there was a risk that he opens from below.
Did not matter because I wore the jacket anyway only open.
But with something like this, the most beautiful zipper does not help. Functionality is king.

I would only worry about repro zippers if I was aiming for 100% reproduction. In all other cases, I want a pretty, quality, functional zipper. In 50 years this is then also vintage ;-)

But I'm certainly not a specialist on this subject and I'm just sharing my perspective.

Edit: But if someone knows where to get these pullers in brass or nickel individually, I'll gladly take the tip

 

[Pandemic]

I’m finalizing specs for an Aero Rockafella order. It’s been fantastic being able to talk directly with Julie on Insta to get her advice!

Before I hit the button, I just want to run it past the Lounge to see what you think about the measurements and details.

Blackened brown Vicenza with a satin or cotton lining. Brown thread. Inside pocket on the lining (not leather). Request extra grainy hide.

Here is a reference pic of the Rockafella, worn by our own @Canuck Panda:

The stock 38 pattern measurements are:

Body 25.5”
Sleeve 25.5”
Shoulder 19.5 “
Pit to pit 20.75”

And for reference, here is me in a Field jacket with the following numbers:

Shoulder 17.5
Pit to pit 20.5
Hem 18.5
Back 25.5
Sleeve 24

(The jeans are a bit low-rise and have since been ditched for higher waist jeans)

Based on this and the different style of the Rocka, I’m thinking:

Bring the shoulders in an inch to 18.5”. They do have some padding for structure, but Julie can use a slimmer pad if I request it.

Add an inch to the body, to 26.5” for a longer length to match this style.

Reduce sleeves to 24” or 24.5”. This will still be a little longer than the FL due to longer shoulder, but is in keeping with the style maybe?

What do you all think?

 

[handymike]

Sounds good on paper. I would go very thin or lose the padding all together and maybe go to 18” for the shoulders. I think the surcoat length would suit this style well. Just watch the halfbelt height and maybe add an extra button on the front.
Will Aero agree to making it a surcoat? Maybe they could also soften the hide a little pre-assembly. This design looks great in a more pliable hide. Never underestimate the benefit of a little front dip (about 1.5”).