Lol exactly. I want a jacket, not a filing cabinet.
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Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear
- Thread starter Marc mndt
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Jin431
Call Me a Cab
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My brown cxl is at 2.75". You're much taller than I am so, it might look better to make it around 3.5-4" to make it more proportioned.
Now i always carry a deck of playing card
And measurement tape on the outer pockets to make the pockets ghosting over their shape.
Mrfrown
One Too Many
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Anyone store glasses or sunglasses in a jacket pocket?
I’m considering either a deep interior pocket or a single long vertical chest pocket to hold my prescription sunglasses (or my plain prescription glasses)
If not pockets, how do y’all do it?
I’m considering either a deep interior pocket or a single long vertical chest pocket to hold my prescription sunglasses (or my plain prescription glasses)
If not pockets, how do y’all do it?
I don't carry much - keys, a small wallet, phone, pocket knife, glasses. Generally the pockets of my jacket are empty. Glasses in shirt pocket or inside jacket pocket, next to a phone. I also put my phone in my back pants pocket. If I have to carry gear I use a bag.
Don’t think your supposed to see the threads like that ..
never a glasses, I always wear them, I carry pocket tissue, phone, menthol inhaler thing (to block unpleasant smell), some lozenges or coffee candies, and currently alcohol hand sanitizer gel in small pump bottle, I put most thing in my jacket's pocket, inside pocket preferably or outside if must, front jeans pocket is mostly useless in slim fitting raw denim pants, I put wallet and pocket tissue in jeans back pockets.
it looks fine, if the jacket is a bit tight, the stitches will dig in into the hide to a point, and then they will stop and sink there it will not continue to stretch of break the stitches once the jacket felt nice, beside it is probably poly core thread, pretty hard to break.
I don't need jacket pockets. I have everything i need in the pockets of my pants.
Left front pocket smartphone, right front pocket money and cards and car keys, in the coin pocket are my keys and in the back pockets a few skilltoys or nothing. I've been doing this for as long as I can remember
Left front pocket smartphone, right front pocket money and cards and car keys, in the coin pocket are my keys and in the back pockets a few skilltoys or nothing. I've been doing this for as long as I can remember
itsallgood
One of the Regulars
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The older I get, the more crap I have to carry around. I took several jackets over to Johnson's Leather and Alan added deep vertical inside pockets; Rx sunglasses on the left inside, clear bifocals on the right inside. I find the most plain, flat as possible, eyeglass cases work best. If I'm wearing one of my jackets that have the two outside vertical pockets, cell phone in left outside, misc in right outside. If I'm on a motorcycle, eyeglass case and ring for the keys on the left inside, garage door opener on the right inside. I like simple lines and prefer to not have zips, snaps, buttons, etc - I'm not doing handstands and everything stays where it's supposed to. When driving, I really like having the four vertical pockets. Day or night I've got the proper eyeglasses, I know where the cell phone is, my butt sits more comfortably in the seat without all of the stuff in my jeans, and there's easy access to all four pockets while wearing a seat belt. Highly recommend!
It depends is the answer to that.
Pic one is a single stitch seam, you would expect to see some thread in that one as it has nowhere to hide.
Pic two is a folded seam with a top stitch.
IMO if the machinist is good you should not really see the thread from the first seam.
The thread will only be visible if the leather was pulled too tight when it is folded.
I have this issue all over my Himel, IMO it doesn't look great.
You won't see much (if any) of it on a Field Leathers, or Freewheelers,or a Lost Worlds, or a maker that really pays attention to the details.
IMO this kind of detail tells you how skilled the maker was...
In this case, good but not great, maybe not used to working with heavy Horween leather.
Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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I can confirm on Field Leathers. I don't see any of it on my FL Idaho. Also checked my ELMC's, don't see any.
Funny. I think I've read somewhere that Himel uses cotton thread instead of nylon like most other makers do. Because it's period correct plus it wouldn't cut into the leather like nylon does when sewn under high tension.
Can't find the source anymore though so I could be mistaken.
I don't think's it's a problem of nylon vs cotton thread, i think it happens when the person making the jacket doesn't try to get things 100% perfect...
I have LW jackets stitched with cotton and others stitched with nylon and both are perfect and don't show any visible stitches from the first stitch line.
If you think about how a jacket is stitched, it's clear it happens when the first stitch line is folded over and pulled tight before doing the top stitch. If you pull too hard on the first stitch line when folding over the leather you will expose the thread.
My Himel is without a doubt the worst jacket i own for that, Vanson depends on which one, some are perfect, some are not good. Aero and Schott are OK, the only "perfect" ones i have are LW, FW and RMC. From what i have seen in pics Greg also nails it perfectly....
I'll try to take pics of my Himel showing it later today.
Edit: @Marc mndt i didn't make it clear that this issue was visible on my Himel before i ever wore it. It's not something that was done by wear, it left the workshop that way.
You could also see these things on HH's 5Star in the first pics he posted before he wore it.
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Cornelius
Practically Family
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Yes, I recall reading this somewhere as well, with Himel claiming that not only was using cotton thread "period-correct" but, more importantly, made it possible to repair failed seams by using the original holes in the leather. As cotton thread will snap before tearing through leather, but nylon thread will tear through leather before breaking itself.
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Harris HTM
One Too Many
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I own a Long Half Belt (Aero) lined with shearling. I had asked for the thickest shearling available but I now regret if for a series of reasons.
I would consider a relining but maybe I'd try to trim the shearling myself first.
Does anyone have any experience on how to trim shearling?
Thanks!
I would consider a relining but maybe I'd try to trim the shearling myself first.
Does anyone have any experience on how to trim shearling?
Thanks!
Harris HTM
One Too Many
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- In the Depths of R'lyeh
haha, I miss the special trimmer, luckily my jacket will be more steady than the sheep on the video!
something like this works. best to hold a vacuum cleaner next to it. https://www.wahl.shop/en/clippers/
I have been using the same Wahl Super taper on my head every other week for around 10 years, they are unkillable.
I don't think i would feel very confident having a go at a fleece lined jacket though, it sounds like a bad idea waiting to happen...
I think the pulled thread at the seams is also a compromised balance between wanting the top stitching as close as possible to the edge (probably looks better for small stitching like Himel) resulting in pulled seams when thicker hide is used, and vice versa ala Aero's top stitches with huge margin to the edge of any seams. somewhere in the middle is the sweetspot, and probably have to be adjusted for different kind of leather thickness, but they are making so many jackets so they decide a margin a compromise they see most fitting to them and just go with it. I dont think skill is the factor there just different kind of foot (or whatever the name of that ski blade like thing to pin down the material and guide the needle) on the sewing machine, maybe one with 2mm gap to the edge, another with 4mm gap to the edge just my guessing.
some of those feet have bumper to feel the edge of the material, so as long as the person is sober enough to feel it basically guide the stitching at fixed distance to the edge so no super skill needed. probably a skilled person would do it a lot faster, but a complete newbie won't end up with wavy sewing either although probably a lot slower to do the same thing.
some of those feet have bumper to feel the edge of the material, so as long as the person is sober enough to feel it basically guide the stitching at fixed distance to the edge so no super skill needed. probably a skilled person would do it a lot faster, but a complete newbie won't end up with wavy sewing either although probably a lot slower to do the same thing.
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