Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[jojothenorthstar]

If your waistline goes up, it'll hold up a hem, but I wouldn't expect the smoothing out of the wool to have a perceptible effect on length.

okay so even if i didn't gain, it would be just fine? It's perfect as is but i am just worried about it post-break in

i could of course get it altered but that's expensive

 

[jojothenorthstar]

i ended up buying a Schott b3 one size up from my chest. question about break in, is it normal to not really be able to cross my arms? Also my sleeve rides a bit high when i move my arms to drive or something

additionally, the back feels a bit stiff and pulls a bit, Is that normal for a new jacket?

 

[spectre6000]

Here's one I've been trying to wrap my head around along the same lines as the gusset question. I've seen reference on multiple occasions to the "height" of arm holes affecting mobility.

Does this refer to where the arm holes are within the body of the jacket? In other words, the top is dictated by the angel across the shoulders from the collar, and then the bottom would be distance from the hem? In which case, the length of body of the jacket would make that figure something of a percentage.

Or does it refer simply to the length of the sleeve opening? Would that be measured in a curve along the seam, or more commonly in a straight line from the top to the bottom as laid flat?

Once this is disambiguated, how does this figure affect mobility?

 

[VansonRider]

Here's one I've been trying to wrap my head around along the same lines as the gusset question. I've seen reference on multiple occasions to the "height" of arm holes affecting mobility.

Does this refer to where the arm holes are within the body of the jacket? In other words, the top is dictated by the angel across the shoulders from the collar, and then the bottom would be distance from the hem? In which case, the length of body of the jacket would make that figure something of a percentage.

Or does it refer simply to the length of the sleeve opening? Would that be measured in a curve along the seam, or more commonly in a straight line from the top to the bottom as laid flat?

Once this is disambiguated, how does this figure affect mobility?

Hello!
I'm not sure if anyone can answer these questions or if there is a designated Keeper of the Thread, but here is my understanding of arm hole height.
It refers to the height of the armpit, the height bottom of the hole. The closer the armpit of the garment is to your actual physical armpit more mobility you have.
As the armpit hole gets larger, the sleeve of the jacket will pull up on the torso and it gets akward to raise your arm.
Take an exagerated example, imagine a jacket with an arm hole that was so big it went down to your elbow.
You'd barely be able to lift your arm because of how it would both pull at the body of the coat, and cause bunching of material at the top of your shoulder.
So the "height" is how high up into your armpit the hole is. You could also say how small the arm hole is, but if the hole is small but still low and away from your armpit, then you still wouldn't have good mobility.

 

[VansonRider]

And I had my own question!
I have had really great experiences with two Etsy sellers and I’d like to share them as a solid source for vintage coats.
I don’t have any affiliation with them, I’ve just bought a really nice whipcord cruiser from one, and the other has a bunch of legitimate US Navy issue Pea Coats. I was able to find a 1969 Dale Fashions model in the UNHEARD of Extra large size of 46
Is there a thread for like "I had a great experience with such and such a seller”?

 

[KBlake]

What’s with Japanese sellers on eBay that don’t include any sizing
Information at all? Link

 

[spectre6000]

I'm looking for inspiration. I've scrolled through the "jackets" tag on vintagehaberdashers.com looking for inspiration. Can anyone suggest any other similar blogs with lots of great photos and information?

 

[navetsea]

why do docMart, always crease this ugly on the side, that horizontal line from the vamp all the way to the top of heel cap, what might be the root of the cause? combat boots with similar pattern rarely have this problem

they crease a lot more natural and doesn't look unnatural like on doc marts

 

[cbez]

thinner cheaper leather

 

[navetsea]

seems like something pulling, maybe the shape of the shaft on doc mart is angled certain way that made that pull once worn perhaps? because it always happen, seems like pattern oriented but I'm not sure why

 

[navetsea]

the tall version docmart is not affected by it, there they
develop similar natural looking creases like on combat/ jumper boots

 

[Nykwil]

I'm looking for inspiration. I've scrolled through the "jackets" tag on vintagehaberdashers.com looking for inspiration. Can anyone suggest any other similar blogs with lots of great photos and information?

There's a what jacket are you wearing today thread...and celebrity and vintage jacket picture threads all on here if you utilize the search.

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Simple idea, post pics of the jacket you are wearing today, hence 'What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?' This thread may have legs, it may fizzle, either way I am sitting here waiting for my wife & loving my Aero Goat modified half belt. Have fun people!

www.thefedoralounge.com

Photos of cool jackets owned by others (non-brand specific)

So I got to thinkin . . . I often come across photos of cool jackets owned by others, and I struggle to find an appropriate thread to post the photos. Sometimes there is a brand specific thread, but other times there is not. Sometimes I am forced to start a thread for a particular jacket...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

I've been thinking about this thread for some time. Hopefully this thread can capture discussion of Vintage Outerwear without derailing other threads. While writing this I thought of several other topics. This Peters is a good place to start as it is currently for sale on ebay. I have...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Thurston Italian Vicenza Horsehide Full Grain Veg.-Tanned Horsehide for Aero Jackets

I just received a sample of Insurrection's new Italian, full grain, veg tanned horsehide for Aero jackets. It is spectacular! Fantastic grain and incredibly pliable. A couple of weeks ago, I received samples from Aero of the Horween front quarter Chromexcel, front quarter tumbled Chromexcel...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Thurston Bros. - Official Affiliate Thread

The Fedora Lounge (TFL) has proven itself over the years to be a tremendous resource for individuals looking for the very best in leather outerwear. Consumers who visit TFL concern themselves with getting the finest quality leather outerwear by diligently researching hide selection, fit, liner...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[tmitchell59]

I'm looking for inspiration. I've scrolled through the "jackets" tag on vintagehaberdashers.com looking for inspiration. Can anyone suggest any other similar blogs with lots of great photos and information?

The blog you referenced and this forum is pretty much it. Much of what you are looking for is here, in threads as listed above. There are threads dedicated to particular jackets and companies, vintage and new.

The Vintage outerwear thread contains a fair amount of inspiration.

In response to your request I posted several back shots of vintage jackets, including the ones you were most interested in. I got now feedback, no questions. I took them down so they would not clog the thread.

check out the instgram links people post. There are a ton of pictures, many posted by TFL forum members.

I have a significant archieve of Vintage jacket pictures, mine and others. If you can narrow down your want I, and others here, can help you.

 

[handymike]

Yes, this is my favorite one:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vintage-outerwear-threads-of-the-past.102621/

 

[spectre6000]

View attachment 586072
why do docMart, always crease this ugly on the side, that horizontal line from the vamp all the way to the top of heel cap, what might be the root of the cause? combat boots with similar pattern rarely have this problem
View attachment 586073 View attachment 586074
they crease a lot more natural and doesn't look unnatural like on doc marts

Looks like Doc Martin uses a taller last (the shoe equivalent of a pattern) than the combat boots. Look at the angle of the laces relative to he heel cap as you go toward the back of the boot. More obtuse. Less likely to feel "tight" to a mass market audience.

There's a what jacket are you wearing today thread...and celebrity and vintage jacket picture threads all on here if you utilize the search.

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Simple idea, post pics of the jacket you are wearing today, hence 'What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?' This thread may have legs, it may fizzle, either way I am sitting here waiting for my wife & loving my Aero Goat modified half belt. Have fun people!

www.thefedoralounge.com

Photos of cool jackets owned by others (non-brand specific)

So I got to thinkin . . . I often come across photos of cool jackets owned by others, and I struggle to find an appropriate thread to post the photos. Sometimes there is a brand specific thread, but other times there is not. Sometimes I am forced to start a thread for a particular jacket...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

I've been thinking about this thread for some time. Hopefully this thread can capture discussion of Vintage Outerwear without derailing other threads. While writing this I thought of several other topics. This Peters is a good place to start as it is currently for sale on ebay. I have...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Thurston Italian Vicenza Horsehide Full Grain Veg.-Tanned Horsehide for Aero Jackets

I just received a sample of Insurrection's new Italian, full grain, veg tanned horsehide for Aero jackets. It is spectacular! Fantastic grain and incredibly pliable. A couple of weeks ago, I received samples from Aero of the Horween front quarter Chromexcel, front quarter tumbled Chromexcel...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Thurston Bros. - Official Affiliate Thread

The Fedora Lounge (TFL) has proven itself over the years to be a tremendous resource for individuals looking for the very best in leather outerwear. Consumers who visit TFL concern themselves with getting the finest quality leather outerwear by diligently researching hide selection, fit, liner...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Perfect! Thank you.

In response to your request I posted several back shots of vintage jackets, including the ones you were most interested in. I got now feedback, no questions. I took them down so they would not clog the thread.

Kinda funny, I saw them, saved them to my "inspiration folder", but similarly didn't want to clog the thread. Your posts are exactly what I would expect to see in this thread. Thank your for posting those. That jacket (the brown one specifically) is almost exactly what I would like to see exist in a size I can wear.

 

[cbez]

A few years ago rainbow country did this run of 'busted shrink' horsehide. Looks sick. Reminds me of the honeycomb shinki horsebutt but more shrunken in the tanning process obviously.

Anyone know of similarly tanned horsehides? I know bison and water buffalo often get tanned like this but haven't seen it in hh besides this.

 

[navetsea]

Looks like Doc Martin uses a taller last (the shoe equivalent of a pattern) than the combat boots. Look at the angle of the laces relative to he heel cap as you go toward the back of the boot. More obtuse. Less likely to feel "tight" to a mass market audience.

you are right seems like the pattern give a spacious room for a very high foot bridge no human will ever have, I think a wedge insole could lessen this problem

 

[tmitchell59]

Looks like Doc Martin uses a taller last (the shoe equivalent of a pattern) than the combat boots. Look at the angle of the laces relative to he heel cap as you go toward the back of the boot. More obtuse. Less likely to feel "tight" to a mass market audience.

Perfect! Thank you.

Kinda funny, I saw them, saved them to my "inspiration folder", but similarly didn't want to clog the thread. Your posts are exactly what I would expect to see in this thread. Thank your for posting those. That jacket (the brown one specifically) is almost exactly what I would like to see exist in a size I can wear.

What size do you wear?

 

[spectre6000]

What size do you wear?

Depends on many things, but in general terms a small to medium in the torso and large to x-large in the shoulders. 22" p2p, but 23" back. I'm almost a square.

 

[jr30]

What are the benefits of brushing leather jackets?

I achieve a shine on shoes, but this is not always desired on leather jackets.

My horse leather jacket is dirt-free but a bit dull in some places, especially on the collar. I have a brand new horsehair brush. How do I proceed? Fast brushing like when polishing shoes to a high shine, or slow movements (maybe only in one direction?)?

What actually happens with the leather when brushing it? Thank you for a tip on a perhaps stupid question

Regards, Roman