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[Peckinpah]

Planning to place an order for a Motorcycle jacket from Aero. I really like the Indian Ranger. Just curious as to the thoughts on having it made without the epaulettes, would it take the look away from the jacket? I'm on the fence about them. Also, would anyone have any recommendations on what would be the best hide for the Ranger? I was thinking of possibly going with Tumbled Black FQHH. However, when I proceed to customisation it doesn't have an option for that. Is this possibly because the hide would be too stiff for the style of the Ranger jacket?

Thank you.

 

[Aloysius]

Planning to place an order for a Motorcycle jacket from Aero. I really like the Indian Ranger. Just curious as to the thoughts on having it made without the epaulettes, would it take the look away from the jacket? I'm on the fence about them. Also, would anyone have any recommendations on what would be the best hide for the Ranger? I was thinking of possibly going with Tumbled Black FQHH. However, when I proceed to customisation it doesn't have an option for that. Is this possibly because the hide would be too stiff for the style of the Ranger jacket?

Thank you.

I think the Indian Ranger without epaulettes would be a very bad idea. Some imbalanced soul online bought one and cut them off, lol. Looked awful.

In any case, because the Indian Ranger is an exact replica of the 1947 model, they don’t allow changes to its details–the hide counts as one of them, because 1940s/50s motorcycle jackets were just not made in that kind of thick leather except for Cal. (And if you want a CHP, that is available in CXL.)

I got blackened brown Vicenza on mine but if I were doing it again, I would go for the Jerky horsehide.

 

[Peckinpah]

I think the Indian Ranger without epaulettes would be a very bad idea. Some imbalanced soul online bought one and cut them off, lol. Looked awful.

In any case, because the Indian Ranger is an exact replica of the 1947 model, they don’t allow changes to its details–the hide counts as one of them, because 1940s/50s motorcycle jackets were just not made in that kind of thick leather except for Cal. (And if you want a CHP, that is available in CXL.)

I got blackened brown Vicenza on mine but if I were doing it again, I would go for the Jerky horsehide.

Thank you for the reply, mate!

I'm happy to go with a jacket with epaulettes, then. I actually worry about them maybe tearing as I had an off the peg leather cowhide jacket years ago and one of the epaulettes got torn on something.

I'm going to go for a black jacket this time around, my previous two purchases from Aero were a Tumbled Brown and Battered Tan.

 

[Aloysius]

Thank you for the reply, mate!

I'm happy to go with a jacket with epaulettes, then. I actually worry about them maybe tearing as I had an off the peg leather cowhide jacket years ago and one of the epaulettes got torn on something.

I'm going to go for a black jacket this time around, my previous two purchases from Aero were a Tumbled Brown and Battered Tan.

These are really robustly stitched so I wouldn’t worry about it!

Go with black Jerky horsehide if you want it to be a rich black jacket that wears through at points to a brown core, the way most 1930s-50s examples did; go for goatskin if you want a dyed-through black with a luxurious drape from the get-go. Those two would be my choices for a black Aero at this point.

 

[Peckinpah]

These are really robustly stitched so I wouldn’t worry about it!

Go with black Jerky horsehide if you want it to be a rich black jacket that wears through at points to a brown core, the way most 1930s-50s examples did; go for goatskin if you want a dyed-through black with a luxurious drape from the get-go. Those two would be my choices for a black Aero at this point.

That's good to hear! I actually should have suspected that they would be more robust on an Aero.

Do you have a preference with regards to Jerky Horsehide and goatskin? The drape on the goatskin does sound good, but I do like the whole process of breaking the jacket in. Is there much of a break in with goatskin?

Thanks for your patience here!

 

[Aloysius]

That's good to hear! I actually should have suspected that they would be more robust on an Aero.

Do you have a preference with regards to Jerky Horsehide and goatskin? The drape on the goatskin does sound good, but I do like the whole process of breaking the jacket in. Is there much of a break in with goatskin?

Thanks for your patience here!

No break in with goatskin, though it is substantial in hand. (Many assume it‘ll be very delicate.) Jerky will have beautiful drape too; it feels very much like actual midcentury horsehide to me.

Between the two I’d go Jerky for this jacket.

 

[Peckinpah]

No break in with goatskin, though it is substantial in hand. (Many assume it‘ll be very delicate.) Jerky will have beautiful drape too; it feels very much like actual midcentury horsehide to me.

Between the two I’d go Jerky for this jacket.

Dude, thank you so much!

Jerky it is, and no cutting of the epaulettes lol

 

[TartuWolf]

Question about sizing / fit:
In terms of upper body with we usually talk about pit-to-pit and shoulder width. But recently I've been realizing just how important is actual chest width, which is above the armpits and below the shoulders.

My Vanson B from Japan has 36cm there and it is definitely restrictive in terms of pulling my arms and shoulders back a bit when zipped.
My Aero is 38cm there and feels much better.
Both have basically same shoulder and pit to pit, Vanson had shoulder gussets and feels great reaching forward.

So it's a case where both pit to pit and shoulders are great, but the actual chest is too narrow.

How do you folks think about chest vs the usual pit to pit? Do you take it into account when buying/measuring?

 

[Marc mndt]

Question about sizing / fit:
In terms of upper body with we usually talk about pit-to-pit and shoulder width. But recently I've been realizing just how important is actual chest width, which is above the armpits and below the shoulders.

My Vanson B from Japan has 36cm there and it is definitely restrictive in terms of pulling my arms and shoulders back a bit when zipped.
My Aero is 38cm there and feels much better.
Both have basically same shoulder and pit to pit, Vanson had shoulder gussets and feels great reaching forward.

So it's a case where both pit to pit and shoulders are great, but the actual chest is too narrow.

How do you folks think about chest vs the usual pit to pit? Do you take it into account when buying/measuring?
View attachment 583916

Good observation. It's not something that I take into account when buying a jacket because most must patterns provide sufficient chest width.

Some exceptions :

1) Field leathers old pattern.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers.100211/post-2770770

2) some racing shirts / suits are designed to fit perfectly for a leaning forward position on a motorcycle. Those jackets aren't necessary a good fit when standing straight. Here's an example, a 70s Luda racing shirt.

 

[TartuWolf]

@Marc mndt
Yeah the racing suit or moto jacket in general explanation makes sense as it is designed for you to lean forward.
But I think Vanson Model B is specifically designed to be a bit more casual (as opposed to Model A/AR).

I have contacted the folks in Poland that were recommended here on TFL about altering my Model B.
Mainly I want the waist taken in (47cm->44cm) and they said ~90eu for that.
I also asked if they could actual make the chest and the sleeve width at elbow level a bit wider and they said sure. Extra ~20eu for that.
I'm very curious how they will widen them. I can easily imagine how it works when altering something to make narrower/smaller, but I don't really understand how can they make something 1-2cm wider/bigger.
Will report when I get the jacket back.

 

[Marc mndt]

I'm very curious how they will widen them. I can easily imagine how it works when altering something to make narrower/smaller, but I don't really understand how can they make something 1-2cm wider/bigger.

It might be wise to double check with them before they start working on it. One thing you really don't want is empty stitch holes showing.

 

[TartuWolf]

I guess I'd sacrifice having empty stitch holes if the fit improves, but I'll ask them how exactly would they widen the chest and would it leave empty stitch holes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

P2P is not THE measurement I look for. I have jackets with smaller P2P measurements that fits bigger than jackets with bigger P2P measurements. Big shoulder and big upper sleeve determines how roomy /mobility the jacket fits for me, or the three holes up top, neck hole, two arm holes. The rest are just for aesthetics, P2P, hem, lengths...etc. The bigger measured jackets usually has contouring panels in the front to make them look fitted.

 

[spectre6000]

I've been "studying up" on jacket design, and I noticed that buttoned cuffs always point the same direction, and have the buttons on the bottom of the wrist. Why is this?

The buttons always end up irritating me when I'm working on a laptop or writing. Why would they not face upward? Why would the cuff... flaps(?) not open the other way?

 

[Marc mndt]

I've been "studying up" on jacket design, and I noticed that buttoned cuffs always point the same direction

There are exceptions to the rule.

 

[spectre6000]

There is always an exception. But why is it a thing in the first place? Obviously, pattern designers weren't thinking about comfort while using laptops in the 30s, but surely there's a reason...

 

[cjrl98]

Wanted to clarify something, does the Joe McCoy leather jackets like Nelson or Mobster use the same custom/proprietary Shinki as The Real McCoy’s leather jackets?

 

[MickeyPunch]

I’d like to find a vintage denim jacket that’s both fitted (including sleeves) and short/cropped (say 23 inch length), and ideally not a type III, as I’ve got type III overload. Any idea what brand/model/decade should I look for?

 

[Aloysius]

Wanted to clarify something, does the Joe McCoy leather jackets like Nelson or Mobster use the same custom/proprietary Shinki as The Real McCoy’s leather jackets?

Joe McCoy isn't a separate brand. It's just the label for their workwear line.

 

[KBlake]

Is it fairly simple to remove the ribbed cuff inside my jacket sleeve on a leather jacket? I really dislike that feature.

Thanks!