Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[livioli]

Don't worry, your jacket will survive everything you throw at it. There is a clear coating on top, water will bead it doesn't penetrate right away, and it doesn't leave a stain. It's really good horsehide.
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Oh wow, u got a Ponyboy as well? I thought Dublinpremium was the only person who owned one.

Would you mind telling me more about the top coat? My understanding was that it was an exposed naken hide, since it's aniline finished. (I never understood what aniline meant because if it's translucent then how it the color black etc.?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Oh wow, u got a Ponyboy as well? I thought Dublinpremium was the only person who owned one.

Would you mind telling me more about the top coat? My understanding was that it was an exposed naken hide, since it's aniline finished. (I never understood what aniline meant because if it's translucent then how it the color black etc.?

The only naked hide I have from RC is their nume horse, the raw one that will patina from scratch. All the other RC jackets, black or brown are all finished. So the water will bead and not stain. He sometimes posts his horsehide making photos at the TMY factory in tokyo, all very tiny batches. Check out his instagram.

For certain models he would use completely finished hides from the Shinki factory in Himeji, you have to go and see which one uses what hides from the multiple different blogs. But from the looks of things, he uses only the chrome tan Shinkis for the thinner stuff. All the thicker stuff he does it himself at TMY with the additional softening.

 

[discoganya]

In the spirit of "ask a question" ...

Can someone recommend a leather jacket to me? Specific link please, new or used. Budget say $500

I ride motorcycles and have dedicated adv and commute jackets, but looking for "an around town" jacket that I can wear to a coffee ride

Would rather get something from a Vanson or Langlitz or Aero rather than a moto brand like Revit or Alpinestars

At 6' 2" 190lbs I have a 44 / XL chest and a dad belly

I like dark browns or deep reds over black

 

[Canuck Panda]

Vanson Enfield or Oxford
Langlitz Crescent or Timberline
Aero Highwayman or 1930s Half Belt

Keep searching for these jacket on the used market, one will come up in your size sooner or later.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

I got a brand new tailor made g1 style cowhide jacket with removable collar via zipper and buttons.

I love it, BUT maybe i'm just paranoid but i feel like it kind of hurts my neck. the collar feels really hard. I've never had a 100% brand new jacket, everything prior was a hand me down. will it break in over time? I have a heavier b15 with a removable collar too, but with just buttons. I got it already broken in but it's always been too big so i wanted something more form fitting

will it be comfortable over time?

 

[Khilij]

How is the quality of Cathcart clothing? Some of their stuff looks pretty neat. I searched and found some old positive reviews, but I wanted to see if those still held true.

 

[ton312]

How is the quality of Cathcart clothing? Some of their stuff looks pretty neat. I searched and found some old positive reviews, but I wanted to see if those still held true.

I didn’t love my last purchase:

It felt like the cheap wool 5 Star uses. This jacket from years prior was amazing though, and 3 times as thick:

 

[Khilij]

Thank you for the info!

 

[ton312]

Thank you for the info!

I think the quality probably varies from year to year and they do have good sales. I would buy again but ask some questions first.

 

[Khilij]

I think the quality probably varies from year to year and they do have good sales. I would buy again but ask some questions first.

Will do. Thank you again. I really appreciate you taking the time.

 

[livioli]

What type of leather finishing is the most durable, and water resistant?

I have a horsehide jacket coming from Shinki, but it's full-aniline so it's naturally more prone to scratches, stains, rain, etc. compared to other finishes. I got it because of the beautiful ageing potential.

For my next jacket, I'd love to have a jacket that is both durable and ages well. What is the compromise? I need a jacket that I can wear on hiking trips under bad weather conditions, like an adventure jacket.

 

[ton312]

What type of leather finishing is the most durable, and water resistant?

I have a horsehide jacket coming from Shinki, but it's full-aniline so it's naturally more prone to scratches, stains, rain, etc. compared to other finishes. I got it because of the beautiful ageing potential.

For my next jacket, I'd love to have a jacket that is both durable and ages well. What is the compromise? I need a jacket that I can wear on hiking trips under bad weather conditions, like an adventure jacket.

Chrome tanned

 

[livioli]

Chrome tanned

It is my understanding that chrome-tanned doesn't age as beautifully as veg-tanned. Am I wrong? The ageing/patina is probably what I care about the most. Although, I would also love to act like Indiana Jones and beat the hell out of my jacket.

 

[ton312]

It is my understanding that chrome-tanned doesn't age as beautifully as veg-tanned. Am I wrong? The ageing/patina is probably what I care about the most. Although, I would also love to act like Indiana Jones and beat the hell out of my jacket.

I suppose it depends on a multitude of things but generally chrome tanned leather is more resilient to the elements and age. But it will age.

 

[livioli]

I suppose it depends on a multitude of things but generally chrome tanned leather is more resilient to the elements and age. But it will age.

I see, so it ages, but slower. Last question: do you have any specific tanneries you'd recommend for chrome-tanned leather?

 

[Aloysius]

I have a Schott 685 that Is a heavier leather with I believe a cotton or canvas lining With a light Poly fill. Around the cuffs it is shredded and in need of replacement. I have reached out to Dena for a quote to replace the sleeves or the entire liner. I would like to replace the lining with a lighter material, nylon, polyester or whatever the terminology is. Question is, with heavy leather do you need to use the heavier lining for whatever reason ? I do not need insulation.
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You don't. I'd suggest reaching out to Schott's repairs department; they're quite reasonably priced.

I see, so it ages, but slower. Last question: do you have any specific tanneries you'd recommend for chrome-tanned leather?

I dare say you're best off leaving that to the jacket maker; a good maker will source good materials.

 

[Viking752]

You don't. I'd suggest reaching out to Schott's repairs department; they're quite reasonably priced.



I dare say you're best off leaving that to the jacket maker; a good maker will source good materials.

Good idea, to be clear. You are saying it’s not a good idea to use a light weight liner on a heavy leather? Or better to have OEM replace liner?

 

[MrProper]

I see, so it ages, but slower. Last question: do you have any specific tanneries you'd recommend for chrome-tanned leather?

Of the leathers I know myself, Horweens Chromexcel is the most robust. Unfortunately, I don't know Vanson or Schott.

 

[Aloysius]

Good idea, to be clear. You are saying it’s not a good idea to use a light weight liner on a heavy leather? Or better to have OEM replace liner?

I'm saying you don't need a heavy insulated liner for a thick jacket. However you probably want (even if uninsulated) a somewhat substantial one because I would think you'd feel all the seams pressing against you through a very thin liner. Something like the cotton drill Schott uses in Perfecto sleeves would work for the full body.

I just mentioned the OEM repairs department because they're very good and reasonably priced. They do lining replacements pretty often including replacing the quilted lining for cotton on fairly new jackets for people who live in hot states.

 

[tmitchell59]

How is the quality of Cathcart clothing? Some of their stuff looks pretty neat. I searched and found some old positive reviews, but I wanted to see if those still held true.

I was very surprised at the quality vs my vintage wool half belts. I would tone down the collar and shorten the sleeves. The wool on this jacket is fine and a lot less $ than a vintage jacket.