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As if we didn't chat about pin curls enough. . .

Tenuki

One of the Regulars
Messages
202
Location
Seattle
I, too, have a cowlick, Clabbergirl. I part my hair just at the edge of the curl and set the cowlick curl in the direction it goes, which happens to be away from my face. It could be you are working against your cowlick curl. I've been working on pin curl sets on and on for the past year and like anything else, it takes time and while I love having the Lounge to get advice, it's been a hit and miss project for me, learning from each set and then coming back to the hair threads and looking at everyone's 'dos. Each time I sit and watch my hairstylist set my hair, I think women must have worked in pairs and set each other's hair. It's got to be easier to set pin curls on someone else.

I was initially skeptical of this talk of brushing, but my results are always better with more brushing. Ten minutes of brushing which seems like a lot, is about how much time I can spend on it, depending on how much sculpting it needs and patience I have. I think, too, hats were invented just to cover up bad pin curls days!

Most days however, I'm lazy with the brushing, like today's photo (sorry, my attire is not vintage). I am ot particularly careful with my pin curl set, although if I was prepping for an event, I would take more time. I find my hair is frizziest the day I shampoo and set it, although the frizz factor is just as dependent on Seattle weather. By day 2 or 3, my hair as calmed down or possibly has been beat into submission with product.

5368449849_4b642748e9_z.jpg
 

Clabbergirl

One of the Regulars
Messages
227
Location
Nashville, TN
Tenuki, thanks for the encouragement. I will have to consider parting my hair on the opposite side to see if that works better with curling the bang area. I don't know if the rest of my hair will cooperate, as I have tried the opposite part when wearing my curls natural and it's unnerving to me! It's worth a try though, and it does seem that pin curling and any kind of setting takes some practice. I am making discoveries as I go, but it's almost like they only confuse me more. For example, I'm learning brushes. Boar bristle or plastic? I bought several (I haven't brushed my hair since oh, 1981 when I tried to have 'wings') and am realizing a brush can make a big difference in the smoothness of the hair. I have a $5 paddle brush I got at Walmart that claims it's for 'smoothing', and has nylon bristles with balls on the end, plus shorter bristles with no ball at the base of each - it works better than anything. Forget the $10 Denman styling brush. A boar hair brush smooths, but only the top layer and doesn't get down into the hair so it feels like I'm 'pushing' the hair with a wooden paddle instead of brushing it.

Also, the first few swipes blends everything together and I get bouncy, puffy curls, turning in all different directions with medium-shine, meaning I have a little fuzz but not like when you immediately take the pins out. Curls are still very tight and form the most fullness at the jawline. I keep brushing because a) I want all the frizz gone, and b) everyone says it's the ticket to groomed, shiny waves. As I brush (against my hand), the curls straighten and become bigger messes of frizz along with the entire length of hair, losing a lot of bend in the process. Continued brushing reduces the frizz and the curl. by the time I've got the frizz tamed a little bit, the fullest part of my hair is about 2" lower and down around the neck. I've tried lottabody lotion, gels, smoothing creams, protein gel from the African-American aisle, Lay-rite pomade, silicone drops, Lay-rite setting spray, and various other things to get the hair to smooth and the curl to stay.

Once I get to the place where all I have is moderate curl at the ends and I've formed it into waves I can live with, I run over it all with a tiny bit of Vo5 hairdressing - which is a godsend. Smooths a lot of things. But I never get rid of the 'fuzzies' that reside around my hairline and in the part - it's like I rubbed a terry cloth towel over my head. My silhouette has a halo of frizz at all times.

Many use shine sprays to smooth things out, but if it's a spray, I don't use it once my hair is dry. Liquid = kink for me, even in the form of a pump hairspray and I'd rather not ruin the set I just let dry all night with one spray. I love all the tutorials on YouTube, but so far none of them I've seen are done by women with naturally curly, baby fine hair like mine - the kind that frizzes when touched. I am beginning to wonder if it's just not possible for me to have this kind of style unless I goop product in, slick it down like a greaser, and then wash/set every single night. I can't face that. If anyone knows of tutorials for vintage hair on fine frizzy hair, please, please let me know. It is a different animal. Everything people suggest here works on my daughter's fine, straight hair wonderfully. But on me? It's like a fro unless I weigh it down with junk.
 

Tenuki

One of the Regulars
Messages
202
Location
Seattle
Hi Clabbergirl,

I feel your frustration and have ended up with a 'fro several times. Looking at your photo, it looks like we have similar hair: fine, thick, wavy. Any time I put my hair up, pony tail, hair combs, what have you, in about 10 minutes, the halo starts then keeps spreading until the hair tool inevitable falls out of my hair unless I've glued it in place with hair spray.

We've been hosting The Traveling Hat (the men's Akbura) and I'll be posting more photos in that thread. There's a photo of me in front of the Space Needle wearing the Hat. On that day (which was a shampoo/wet set from the previous night), I ended up with a 'fro but he wanted me to don the hat. I now believe he's torturing me by saying it's the best photo of the bunch because he knows I hate the way my hair turned out.

I have a couple of brushes, including an el cheapo paddle and boar bristle. The paddle works best for me. The boar brush is all but useless to me, as is the round ceramic brush.

I'm a product minimalist and use Dudley's Conditioning gel (from the ethnic hair section), Fruictis Modeling jelly, and, rarely, hair spray. I also use the product sparingly, since I'm using gels and my hair takes product so well, I use between a nickel and quarter's worth of each.

Perhaps you are washing too often? If you're shampooing every day, that will dry your hair and scalp. I shampoo and wet set with setting gel twice a week. On the non-shampoo days, I use a spray bottle filled with rose water to mist my hair until it feels damp but not dripping then reset the pin curls overnight. My frizz factor is considerably less on the 2nd day and gone the third. Since the Fruictis jelly doesn't always tame the frizz, I'm going to try the V-05 hairdressing - thanks!

I think someone mentioned getting a trim earlier in the thread and it is very helpful, especially when your hair is shorter. If your hairstylist is keen to do a pin curl set, I highly recommend having it done, even if you have to seek someone out. My stylist ends up with different results and I like my sets better, but I get to watch her work the set and the brushing.

Pictures help too, even if you don't post them here, but randomly take some just to check your progress. I can't say my set turns out the same twice and on those rare days I manage to remember to set the curls in opposite directions and get that distinctive 30s look, I take a photo just to prove I've done it. I probably achieve it 1/4 of the time that I attempt a purposeful 30s look.

I don't have any tutorial links to share but here is a terrific thread, if you haven't yet been: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?38594-Everyday-Women-of-the-Golden-Era
 

Tatum

Practically Family
Messages
959
Location
Sunshine State
Clabbergirl, I didn't even think of suggesting that you change your part, but it might be a really good idea... My sets never turned out the way I wanted, and one day, I flipped everything to the other side....that was it. Changed my hairstyles from decent to great! Rolls, which had completely eluded me before, were suddenly easy. Most of my cowlicks are in the back, but maybe I have one in the front as well!

Edited to add...The only reason I parted my hair on the one side for so long is because I have a large beauty mark on my scalp near where I part my hair on the "successful" side. My hair likes to part right there, and I protest :)
 
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Tenuki

One of the Regulars
Messages
202
Location
Seattle
Until I read the latest posts here, it would not have occurred to me to switch sides, but I can't hurt to try. The Travelling Hat pics are scaled and nearly posted to my flickr account. The photo was taken in mid-December, on a typical cold yet humid Seattle day. Thankfully, my hair was mostly covered with the Traveling Hat. When not covered by The Hat, I covered it with my vintage Adams Executive.

Enjoy my 'fro!

5374861748_7e7e322001.jpg
 

Clabbergirl

One of the Regulars
Messages
227
Location
Nashville, TN
Thanks again

I decided to wear my hair natural for a few days after this post. I just let it air dry and form its natural curls after my shower those days, and the break may have helped. My next attempt at a set turned out like this:




I took several shots in different lighting to try and capture the curl pattern on my darker hair. This set was the least frizzy to date - I used lottabody setting lotion + a smidge of Tresemme smoothing cream (has dimethicone in it :() + a teeny teeny smidge of Vo5 Hairdressing (in the black/gold tube) sprayed on and combed into dry hair, section by section, and then wrapped with end papers around sponge rollers.

Instead of brushing for ages like I have been, I ran the brush through in sections to separate and get tangles out, then brushed all over about 4 or 5 times. I was afraid to keep brushing in fear the dreaded frizzies would show up again. Then I hit the whole thing with Frizz-ease hair spray (supposed to combat humidity?) and left for the day. It pretty much stayed like this except that the curls got bunchier so I used a comb to smooth them a little bit. This is more of what I'm going for, but still more 30s finger wave than 40s. Am I getting close?

I'm going to try parting my hair on the other side next time to see if that makes a difference.
 

I Adore Film Noir

A-List Customer
Messages
480
Location
U.S.A.
I decided to wear my hair natural for a few days after this post. I just let it air dry and form its natural curls after my shower those days, and the break may have helped. My next attempt at a set turned out like this:




I took several shots in different lighting to try and capture the curl pattern on my darker hair. This set was the least frizzy to date - I used lottabody setting lotion + a smidge of Tresemme smoothing cream (has dimethicone in it :() + a teeny teeny smidge of Vo5 Hairdressing (in the black/gold tube) sprayed on and combed into dry hair, section by section, and then wrapped with end papers around sponge rollers.

Instead of brushing for ages like I have been, I ran the brush through in sections to separate and get tangles out, then brushed all over about 4 or 5 times. I was afraid to keep brushing in fear the dreaded frizzies would show up again. Then I hit the whole thing with Frizz-ease hair spray (supposed to combat humidity?) and left for the day. It pretty much stayed like this except that the curls got bunchier so I used a comb to smooth them a little bit. This is more of what I'm going for, but still more 30s finger wave than 40s. Am I getting close?

I'm going to try parting my hair on the other side next time to see if that makes a difference.

That's pretty near perfect, I'd say!
 

Clabbergirl

One of the Regulars
Messages
227
Location
Nashville, TN
Thank you - I'm trying to learn what my hair can take and what it can't. Brushing is something it can't take for long without frizzing. There's a brushing sweet spot somewhere in between taking the rollers out and a final blast of hair spray. If I can learn where it is, this will be easier. I rolled my daughter's hair (baby fine too but has a little wave) over the weekend and hers turned out gorgeous! Her bangs are longer and she got that Lauren Bacall wave in them. I think I will like my sets better as my bangs grow out. I cut them just before I went and got a middy cut - and immediately regretted them (like I always do when I cut my bangs). The difference in textures and their reaction was very eye-opening to me - her hair was a frizzy mess straight out of the rollers, but repeated brushing calmed everything down into smooth waves that had a great 40s silhouette. It really was a case of more brushing = smoother hair. But for me? Once I get past that 'spot' where everything's blended together, it seems like more and more frizz shows up. Hmmm. This stuff really is trial-and-error!

To address past comments - I had a cut about 2 weeks ago where a good 4" came off, better than a trim to remove dead ends. Over the years, I've learned how to keep my curls frizz-free so that they look like I just stepped out of the Devachan Salon for curly girls, but this rolling-setting-styling thing is all extremely new to me, and I'm struggling with the frizz all over. Off to search for African-American vintage style techniques...
 

Clabbergirl

One of the Regulars
Messages
227
Location
Nashville, TN
Thank you too, Berlin. You wouldn't envy this mop if you had it day in, day out. But I sure do appreciate the compliment - very encouraging. If I can get the roller set down, I'm going back to pin curls. But I wonder if that will have a new learning curve with frizzy ends. I don't know how to really roll a pin curl with end papers.
 

beth

Familiar Face
Messages
72
Location
Houston
Brushing is one of the hardest things to figure out. I'm still trying to learn the best way. I always got so frustrated because I'd end up with an 80's style afro whenever I brushed it. The last time I tried it, however, I did have to do a lot of brushing, but the biggest difference was forming the curl while brushing the hair over my hand, if that makes sense. In the future, I want to experiment with different brushes, also.
 

Tenuki

One of the Regulars
Messages
202
Location
Seattle
Beautiful, Clabbergirl!

When I started this adventure, the last problem I expected was that hair brushing was a hard skill to master. I can't even type that sentence with a straight face.
 

I Adore Film Noir

A-List Customer
Messages
480
Location
U.S.A.
Thank you - I'm trying to learn what my hair can take and what it can't. Brushing is something it can't take for long without frizzing. There's a brushing sweet spot somewhere in between taking the rollers out and a final blast of hair spray. If I can learn where it is, this will be easier. I rolled my daughter's hair (baby fine too but has a little wave) over the weekend and hers turned out gorgeous! Her bangs are longer and she got that Lauren Bacall wave in them. I think I will like my sets better as my bangs grow out. I cut them just before I went and got a middy cut - and immediately regretted them (like I always do when I cut my bangs). The difference in textures and their reaction was very eye-opening to me - her hair was a frizzy mess straight out of the rollers, but repeated brushing calmed everything down into smooth waves that had a great 40s silhouette. It really was a case of more brushing = smoother hair. But for me? Once I get past that 'spot' where everything's blended together, it seems like more and more frizz shows up. Hmmm. This stuff really is trial-and-error!

To address past comments - I had a cut about 2 weeks ago where a good 4" came off, better than a trim to remove dead ends. Over the years, I've learned how to keep my curls frizz-free so that they look like I just stepped out of the Devachan Salon for curly girls, but this rolling-setting-styling thing is all extremely new to me, and I'm struggling with the frizz all over. Off to search for African-American vintage style techniques...

I'm a straight haired girl myself, but must you brush? I don't brush my hair, I style with a wide toothed comb. I think brushing whips the hair around, makes it snap and gives you split ends.
Have you tried tipping your head over and combing it out with a wide toothed comb? This will loosen some of the curl and give you more body than if you brushed or combed it flat. Just a thought.
 

Tatum

Practically Family
Messages
959
Location
Sunshine State
Thank you too, Berlin. You wouldn't envy this mop if you had it day in, day out. But I sure do appreciate the compliment - very encouraging. If I can get the roller set down, I'm going back to pin curls. But I wonder if that will have a new learning curve with frizzy ends. I don't know how to really roll a pin curl with end papers.

*laughs* I can't do it without them! I am so inept when it comes to traditional pincurls...
 

BettyMaraschino

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
London, UK
Random question, How many pin curl clips on average do you all use?
I want to finally get round to getting some, but not sure how many. I know they come in packs of 10 or 12 in Supedrug.
(sorry if its been mentioned before, couldnt find it if it has been.)
 

Tatum

Practically Family
Messages
959
Location
Sunshine State
Random question, How many pin curl clips on average do you all use?
I want to finally get round to getting some, but not sure how many. I know they come in packs of 10 or 12 in Supedrug.
(sorry if its been mentioned before, couldnt find it if it has been.)

A lot more than 12! Well, that's me. It really depends on the set you are doing. I would get three sets and go from there. I just counted how I would do my "regular" set and was over thirty.
 

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