Art Fawcett VS Hall of Fame

[MikeU]

To all thx for the compliment on the milan boater! It's like one of a kind hat because it's made in milan straw, Art did an exceptional job on the weaving an the ribbon work is different also with the big knot anybody getting one done wont be disappointed spring an summer is coming....

 

[Denton]

I love the look of natural milan straw with an optimo crown shape. Dinerman sold a couple of early examples maybe two years ago. I own one from Optimo in Chicago . . . and now I am thinking seriously about ordering one from VS.

In any case I am enthusiastic about Art's new milans! Looking forward to seeing more pictures.

 

[Rabbit]

Great designs - I also like the centered pugaree dip. But I would be curious on Art's response to the Milan/Leghorn parity. Leghorn is a straw weave in the family of panamas and buntals. The milan radial construction seems much less versatile when it comes to shaping. I can't imagine a milan weave holding a tight optima blocking.

cheers,
Alan

Good point, Alan, that's quite possible. Or perhaps it depends on the specific type of weave of the Milan. I only thought of the similarity in color options - both Leghorn straw and Milans are (were) often made in darker colors than the ivory of Panamas. The challenges of blocking I didn't consider...

Here's one Optimo Milan that Dinerman sold, as Denton just mentioned. Thanks for the reminder, by the way. The weave (or the sewing) looks different from the currently available Milans, as if the hat was sewn of narrower braids, perhaps.

 

[hatsRme]

Here's one Optimo Milan that Dinerman sold, as Denton just mentioned. Thanks for the reminder, by the way. The weave (or the sewing) looks different from the currently available Milans, as if the hat was sewn of narrower braids, perhaps.

Almost all of the vintage Milans I have seen from earlier days (pre-1960's, I believe) are of that much finer weave. And, they started the weave with more with a circle, not an oblong first course as is done today. I love the Milans; contemporary ones and vintage ones...perhaps my favorite casual lid style. I hope the current suppliers of the braid can eventually achieve the same quality as those SO fine vintages. Right Mikespens?!?!

And in the meantime, Art, get out my band block for the next Boater hat order. Or maybe an optimo. Or a mid-century flat top. As I said, I love them ALL!

 

[MikeU]

heres an Ad about 1929

 

[MikeU]

My Grandfather in 1929 holding his hat

 

[alanfgag]

I've not handled a milan weave hat from before WWII, nor have I handled the contemporary versions from Optimo or Vintage Silhouettes. I have quite a few post-war milans. They seem to be a finer pitch than the current variety. They did come in a variety of colors and tones including the painted silver well known from a Frank Sinatra album cover. I went back to look at them and a few do have a fairly tight formed shape that suggests a nice optimo crease might be possible. Probably the best quality I have handled is the Knox Premier Milan shown below. It would be great to see one of these 1920s milans. In the 1950s, the milan hat was quite heavy - good for a San Francisco summer.

 

[Rabbit]

Almost all of the vintage Milans I have seen from earlier days (pre-1960's, I believe) are of that much finer weave. And, they started the weave with more with a circle, not an oblong first course as is done today. I love the Milans; contemporary ones and vintage ones...perhaps my favorite casual lid style. I hope the current suppliers of the braid can eventually achieve the same quality as those SO fine vintages. Right Mikespens?!?!

And in the meantime, Art, get out my band block for the next Boater hat order. Or maybe an optimo. Or a mid-century flat top. As I said, I love them ALL!

That's the spirit.

I must say, the new, thicker braid with the "oblong-first" pattern at the top suits the new VS Boater very well.

 

[mikespens]

Almost all of the vintage Milans I have seen from earlier days (pre-1960's, I believe) are of that much finer weave. And, they started the weave with more with a circle, not an oblong first course as is done today. I love the Milans; contemporary ones and vintage ones...perhaps my favorite casual lid style. I hope the current suppliers of the braid can eventually achieve the same quality as those SO fine vintages. Right Mikespens?!?!

I haven't handled an Optimo milan or one of Art's new ones but like you say Charlie, the genuine vintage milans are in a different league than modern hemp based hats being called milan. From the pixs I've seen, Optimo's and Art's new hand made certainly look like the real deal. It's too bad most of this discussion didn't end up here:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?30949-Milan-Mania

That thread could use some more life. Hint, hint

 

[Denton]

I seem to recall that Carouselvic has an interesting milan hat made by Knox, with a shape somewhere in between an optimo crown and a boater. Like a very tall boater with a flat top and an optimo ridge running over it. I think it had a pug ribbon, but I don't know if the design was related to the one that Rabbit is envisioning. There should be a picture somewhere in the "post new hats here" thread, but I couldn't find it when I searched for it.

 

[Rabbit]

I seem to recall that Carouselvic has an interesting milan hat made by Knox, with a shape somewhere in between an optimo crown and a boater. Like a very tall boater with a flat top and an optimo ridge running over it. I think it had a pug ribbon, but I don't know if the design was related to the one that Rabbit is envisioning. There should be a picture somewhere in the "post new hats here" thread, but I couldn't find it when I searched for it.

The additon of an Optimo ridge is an option for many crown shapes, including Fedoras. The 1920s especially saw lots of odd designs in that respect.

I think hatters can use a cord strung over a normal block to create the ridge, thus adding the optimo ridge to pretty much any straw hat block. I'm not sure whether or not an optimo block is supposed to have a tipper to set in the ridge with more pressure, though.

What I'm planning to have made is a "normal" Optimo block. A very straight block shape, too.

 

[emigran]

HALL OF FAMER'S QUESTION

Time for a new VS Spring topper... I'm guessin DOVE...
Here's the question: What's the difference between dress weight and Artlite fur felt,,,???
Does the liteweight flop, does it hold a crease or does it need to be tweaked regularly......??
Thanks for any input, folks....

 

[gtdean48]

HALL OF FAMER'S QUESTION

Time for a new VS Spring topper... I'm guessin DOVE...
Here's the question: What's the difference between dress weight and Artlite fur felt,,,???
Does the liteweight flop, does it hold a crease or does it need to be tweaked regularly......??
Thanks for any input, folks....

Artlite is the closest thing to vintage felt I have held.
I have 4 of them. They hand crease & brims hold a dry shaping as well.
2 of mine are vented & are worn in Spring, Summer & early Fall.

 

[Rogera]

Artlite is the closest thing to vintage felt I have held.
I have 4 of them. They hand crease & brims hold a dry shaping as well.
2 of mine are vented & are worn in Spring, Summer & early Fall.

+1. I only have one Artlite but I love it. The felt definitely feels and creases like vintage felt and holds a crease nicely. I will be getting another eventually.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

I would give Art a call and see what Artlite bodies he has in stock. When thinking about colors of the hat.

 

[Brian Niebuhr]

I'm thinking of giving VS a shot. For the last few years I've been wearing mostly Akubra hats and have been happy with them but they've cut the models I like best and I wasn't able to "stock up". I like a larger brim. 3 1/2" raw edge is best for me and I wear a 7 1/2 so we're talking a fairly big hat with no brim edging. I was wondering if a nutria blend would be my only option as far as the wide brim goes or would the century be ok as well? I do like a thin, borderline floppy brim. I know this has been asked before but any additional detail would be very helpful. Also, I wear my hats pretty hard. (the reason I wear Akubras) Does the nutria blend hold up well to rain? Do they shrink any when new like Akubras tend to? I am aware that they are custom fitted but I'm still worried about shrinkage. I'm used to getting my Akubras huge and letting them to shrink to fit. Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get a better understanding before I make my purchase. Thanks for any help!

 

[gtdean48]

I'm thinking of giving VS a shot. For the last few years I've been wearing mostly Akubra hats and have been happy with them but they've cut the models I like best and I wasn't able to "stock up". I like a larger brim. 3 1/2" raw edge is best for me and I wear a 7 1/2 so we're talking a fairly big hat with no brim edging. I was wondering if a nutria blend would be my only option as far as the wide brim goes or would the century be ok as well? I do like a thin, borderline floppy brim. I know this has been asked before but any additional detail would be very helpful. Also, I wear my hats pretty hard. (the reason I wear Akubras) Does the nutria blend hold up well to rain? Do they shrink any when new like Akubras tend to? I am aware that they are custom fitted but I'm still worried about shrinkage. I'm used to getting my Akubras huge and letting them to shrink to fit. Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get a better understanding before I make my purchase. Thanks for any help!

I have 2 of Art's nutria blend hats, one is my Go-To hunting hat. I also have quite a few Akubras. I have not noticed shrinkage with the nutria blend like I do with the Imperial Akubras.
These are durable felt bodies, exactly what Art was shooting for. I would suggest getting a band block from Art with your hat, best hat tool I have. They do shed water well but sweating from active use is what causes the sweatband to draw & shrink a hat more than water from rain. All felt will want to return to its cone shape, why re-blocking was & is needed over time.
My band block is in constant use with all types of lids, new, vintage, custom, factory, fedora, western, etc...

 

[navarre_au]

I also have two of the Nutria blends - my size is about the same as you and the brims are around that size - - one has been worn very consistently - through all sorts of weather and places. It should have its own frequent flyer card for all the places and planes its been in

I cant say I have noticed any shrinkage - I do use a band block just as Gtdean mentions.

The Felt is quite different to Akubra's - in feel and appearance - but it holds up well to daily use.

They (Art's hats) are very comfy - i've forgotten I was wearing them more then a few times.

Art can also do western weight bodies - if you wanted to consider a heavier felt

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Beautiful job, a million thanks to you Art.

 

[ManofKent]

Lovely!