Are online bespoke shirts worth it? Yes!

[Tzedekh]

Jovan, how is the construction? Are the collar and cuffs topstitched a quarter inch from the edge?

Yes. Isn't this standard even with the cheapest dress shirts?

Not always. A lot of collars -- even on custom and MTM shirts -- are now stitched near the edge. I think it's a European style.

Also, it looks as if your shirt has a French (ie, unplacketed) front. How is side with the buttonholes finished -- is the raw edge turned under and then the front topstitched about a quarter of an inch from the edge?

I'm not sure what you're asking, but the side with the buttons is clean underneath with no raw edges. It's stitched.

I'm sorry I wasn't clearer. On virtually all men's dress shirts, the raw edge on the button side is turned under and topstitched about an inch from the edge of the shirt to hide the raw edge. Then the buttons are sewn on.

I was referring to the other side of the shirt front, the buttonhole side. Some French front shirts have the raw edge on this side turned under, and the buttonholes themselves sort of hide the raw edge. Unfortunately, when washed, threads can still work loose and find their way out. Other French front shirts will "seal" the raw edge with a row of topstitching about a quarter inch from the edge of the shirt. This also has the effect of picking up the topstitching style of the collar and cuffs.

Thanks for your detailed reply.

 

[Fletch]

Are the side seams single-needle (with the raw edges turned under and stitched) or flat-felled (cheaper, with two visible rows of stitches on the seams)? Serged seams are the least desirable.

Undefined term: "serged."

 

[Miss Neecerie]

Undefined term: "serged."

the process of overcasting the raw edges of a piece of fabric (as a carpet) to prevent raveling

 

[Fletch]

Thanks. Still wondering why someone would carefully define 2 technical terms and then just throw out a third.