Another AERO 1930s Slim Halfbelt/Luftwaffe Hybrid - Suggestions?

[Rudie]

I'd love to hear your opinion about the jacket I'm about to order.

My first jacket didn't turn out quite like I had envisioned it. The fit was off, resulting in a pronounced batwing effect. So here I go again...

The first one was in brown HFQHH. This is it:

This time I am going for a lighter jacket for warmer weather.

Here's what I have in mind:
- Size 40/38 hybrid. Shoulders size 40, tapered from below the armholes to a size 38 (My first jacket is a 40 and much too wide below the armholes and at the hem)
- Russet goat
- Back length from the collar seam down 65cm/25.5“
- 2 G-1 style pistol pockets in the facing with stud closure (left and right)
- Collar pointier than default with dynamic curve (my first jacket already has a pointier collar than the standard collar, but I'd like it even pointier)
- Arado style collar strap with press stud closure
- A-2 summer cotton lining
- Double leather (leather lined) cuffs
- Two angled chest pockets (1" little lower on the medial side than on the lateral side)
- Two flapped lower waist pockets with horn buttons like on my first jacket
- Nickel Aero zippers, main zipper with leather strap, chest pockets with ball and chain zippers
- All pockets lined with brown cotton drill
- 2“ leather strip at bottom hem to protect the liner.

I am still considering two modifications: First, a collar stand, and second, I am not sure about the sleeves. I think about going for the standard sleeves with a button but I'm not sure how practical they are. If they are so narrow that I have to unbutton them each time I want to don the jacket or take it off I'd rather find a different solution. My first jacket has sleeves like this:

I like them, but I would love a bit variety for my second jacket. So if I can stick my hands through without unbuttoning the sleeves I'll opt for the standard sleeves this time. Can you do that?

 

[volleykinginnc]

I can't help answer any of your questions......all I can say is daaaaamn that is a nice jacket you have in the pics....

 

[mrc]

the batwing effect is just a reality with the Aero Slimfit jackets. You can mitigate the effect through proper sizing (I agree your 1st jacket was too large on you), but you'll never truly get rid of it. Nice specs. on the new one!

 

[Rudie]

I know there will always be some batwing effect. The real bummer for me is the way it's not fitting at the hips, giving the impression of a fat belly.

 

[Tony B]

You Could try asking aero if they could drop the shoulder seams back behind the shoulder like the coat here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330649009331?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&clk_rvr_id=306521978399

It seems a very common feature of german jackets and coats of all types of that period.

Regards Tony

 

[Rudie]

Thanks for the suggestion Tony. I'd rather not experiment too much this time and have them get the fit right. This is getting quite expensive...

Could anybody of the 30s Halfbelt owners tell me if you can put the jacket on and take it off without having to unbutton the cuffs each time?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks for the suggestion Tony. I'd rather not experiment too much this time and have them get the fit right. This is getting quite expensive...

Could anybody of the 30s Halfbelt owners tell me if you can put the jacket on and take it off without having to unbutton the cuffs each time?

I have several '30 HalfBelts...and no..the button cuffs are not so tight that you must unbutton them to put the jacket on. In fact my Stuart has the same button cuffs that slip off and on easily.
HD

 

[John Lever]

I have several '30 HalfBelts...and no..the button cuffs are not so tight that you must unbutton them to put the jacket on. In fact my Stuart has the same button cuffs that slip off and on easily.
HD

When I designed the Radjacke I wanted button cuffs. As Van said, they are easy to operate.

 

[Metatron]

On a related note, is there any price reduction associated with using goatskin instead of heavy front quarter horsehide?

 

[Rudie]

Thanks HD and John. I'll go with the standard button cuffs then.

Metatron, unfortunately not. I asked Amanda and the price is the same.

 

[John Lever]

Thanks HD and John. I'll go with the standard button cuffs then.

Metatron, unfortunately not. I asked Amanda and the price is the same.

I would also advise to go for a thin leather such as capeskin. Having handled an original German 1930's jacket, they are are not made of heavy horsehide. The skin is too thick for the design and they are uncomfortable to wear.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Aeros goatskin is extraordinary. Its so thick and perfect, mine is in many ways better then the FQHH - more even and very strong. Its no surprise to me that the price is the same.

 

[tonypaj]

I have a 30s half belt in FQHH and a Stuart made of the A-2 horsehide. I wear the FQHH with cuffs buttoned, the Stuart with the cuffs unbuttoned. No problem with either, either way. Just wanted to confirm .

 

[Rudie]

John, are you saying goat is too heavy for a comfortable 30s Halfbelt or for a Luftwaffe style jacket? The goat samples I have from Aero are sturdy but much thinner than the FQHH. I don't want a faithful German war time jacket, though. I just love some features like the two breast pockets and the little Hartmann style flap pockets, and I think they go well with the 30s Halfbelt style.

Griff, strangely enough, some A-2s are cheaper in goat than in FQHH. That's why I asked Amanda.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

But doesnt the A2´s have thinner hides? I always got that impression from Amanda when talking about "summer jackets", she told me the tan steerhide "is as thin as the A2 horse" for one thing, but someone who knows should chime in here.

I cant see a jacket like that made in the heavy goat I have in my Cheyenne. The A2 has that "bomber style" back where the jacket need to make a nice "fold" above the waistband...I cant imagine my goatskin would work.

But as I said, i know nothing about A2´s.

It should work sweet for a halfbelt tho. My Cheyenne has gotten very soft and pliable in the areas I use alot, like the collar (I change it up and down often) so I would imagine a halfbelt in goat would be very nice - thick, but the more its used the more soft it would get, and at the same time it will hold its shape in the areas that doesnt get much bend, like that top back and so on.

My Cheyenne has 1.5mm thick hide.

 

[Rudie]

The goat samples I have are only about 1mm thick.

The A-2s are certainly not made from FQHH. My bad, I meant the mid-weight horse. Judging from the samples the mid-weight horse is pretty substantial, too, though.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Maybe there is a midweight goat too. Im very confused about all the different hides

Yes the midweight horse feels like a good piece of lether, but its too soft for my taste. I was planning my next jacket to be midweight horse but when I got the sample I had the feeling that the pocket panels would show through too much for my taste. I might be wrong tho, but even tho its actually quite thick, its very flimsy. Its not for me

Personally I rather have a stiff thinner hide, than a thicker flimsy one. This is why Im gonna use the old oilpull, its thinner then the midweight horse (and doesnt have all the fluff underneath) but stiffer, so it will crease, and Im positive it will get soft after alot of use. My Highwayman is FQHH and after 2 years it has gotten really soft in the area near the bottom wich gets alot of "use" when reahing for your jeans pockets, and its almost butterysoft here, so I think the FQHH will get a m a z i n g after enought wear. Ok this is offtopic and Im rambling, sorry

 

[Edward]

Aeros goatskin is extraordinary. Its so thick and perfect, mine is in many ways better then the FQHH - more even and very strong. Its no surprise to me that the price is the same.

It'd be a fair question to ask, given they list different prices on the website for FQHH and steer, but I can well imagine that most of the cost of any Aero lies in the labour required to make it, and that isn't going to change with hide.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

It'd be a fair question to ask, given they list different prices on the website for FQHH and steer, but I can well imagine that most of the cost of any Aero lies in the labour required to make it, and that isn't going to change with hide.

Yeah offcourse. I understand. Im just saying - owning both I understand it can cost the same. My steerhide jacket I had was also extremely extraordinary and I would gladly have payed the same as for horse for that thickness I had. (i did ask for a tough hide in both the steer and the goatskin)

 

[John Lever]

John, are you saying goat is too heavy for a comfortable 30s Halfbelt or for a Luftwaffe style jacket? The goat samples I have from Aero are sturdy but much thinner than the FQHH. I don't want a faithful German war time jacket, though. I just love some features like the two breast pockets and the little Hartmann style flap pockets, and I think they go well with the 30s Halfbelt style.

Griff, strangely enough, some A-2s are cheaper in goat than in FQHH. That's why I asked Amanda.

Similar jackets like the A-1, just don't work in thick horsehide. They don't hang correctly are are uncomfortable to wear. Break in periods can be decades. I like my Radjacke but hardly ever wear it because it feels like a straight jacket. I can't bend my arms or lift them above shoulder height. My Eastman Cape A-1 is so comfortable it's the jacket of choice. If you look at period photos, they all show wrinkles and folds of thin leather. These jackets were military workwear and had to be practical.