Feraud
Bartender
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- Hardlucksville, NY
Cute children aside...
worthlesswithoutpics
Let's see many and detailed photos!
worthlesswithoutpics
Let's see many and detailed photos!
Marc Chevalier said:That's this thread's entire premise.
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GBR said:Hopefully all the areas mentioned "The fit, fabric, construction, silhouette, lining, buttons, buttonhole work, and dozens of minute details are just outstanding" can be seen. I'll add the suit being worn without the coat so all the details of the trousers can be seen - pockets, back formation etc etc and the full inside of the coat showing pockets and other features. Let's see the lot that only a personal examination could reveal.
This was good info. I have learned something, no small feat for a closed mind.Tomasso said:It appears that you are unfamiliar with the Matching Myth.
GBR said:Then tell us when you are coming to the UK!
Tomasso said:It appears that you are unfamiliar with the Matching Myth.
Matt Deckard said:She's right /\
And this is a great subject that I think doesn't get enough discussion and clarification.
Lapels can match pretty well depending on the stripe width... shoulders can rarely match.
Lapels are easier to work with than shoulders. There are three pieces that are visible with the lapels (collar and right and left lapel) and if they are cut correctly and the stripes are at a workable distance apart you'll get a good match, often you see stripes just all over the place, I like them even on both sides and if possible, perfectly meeting at the seams. So even if the angle of the seam on the lapel makes it hard for certain types of stripes to meet, I want the stripes to at least be mirrored on both sides... and that is also not easy.
For the shoulders it depends on the separation of the stripes. It's a bigger distance to cover over a curved shoulder, this means a curved seam and two pieces of fabric meeting not head on, but at angles. I've had this talk with tailor after tailor... Asked Andrew Ramroop and Angus Cundy on Savile Row, talked to a few New York tailors and tailors out here in California as well.
Matching shoulder stripes? I don't do that, though I am getting my cutters to match the leading stripes at the end near the sleavehead when they can, and that is a cutting feet in itself to mirror the front and back panels... like on the gray suit in the pic.
There are examples of vintage suits with the stripes matched on the shoulders and it took some skill on the tailors part and a heavier fabric to pull it off... The match often required stretching (manipulating) part of the fabric. It didn't harm the fit or the wear, but it is rarely done nowadays. My opinion is that it's just another skill that isn't trained or learned and fabrics today being thinner on average don't take well to being stretched out.
I'm okay with just the lapels since it's easy and doesn't require special manipulation.
If you think being fitted will be difficult, wait till you try wearing it. As a midwesterner myself, I know how very difficult it can be for a well-dressed male not to appear pretentious and foolish.Rhabryn said:Sadly, I'm also in the mid-west - so doing that will, in itself, be a feat (re: fittings, etc.)
Agreed. I am a fan of Deckard's black three piece shown below.scotrace said:Having also seen Matt in one of his suits, and getting a chance to have a close look at it... Marc is not stretching the truth at all. Matt has gone and done what so many of our members have dreamed of or unsuccessfully attempted.
Fletch said:If you think being fitted will be difficult, wait till you try wearing it. As a midwesterner myself, I know how very difficult it can be for a well-dressed male not to appear pretentious and foolish.
I don't want to discourage you, but we do need to be aware of the codes our clothing carries when, and where, it's worn. It's nothing you can read in a book, either. Most men's clothes officially have no codes, but they're there. They're just unwritten.