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aha! Got one.

dr greg

One Too Many
20 years ago I had one of these coats stolen, and have never seen another one since, but I got this on EBAY for $70 advertised as a "WW1" coat, no way to my thinking, possibly WW2 Coastwatcher issue from the southern coast, but bloody nice, I slept rough in my old one on some brutal cold nights on the road and it's good to have one again. It drank about a pint of neatsfoot oil at first lick, and will be given some more when I make it down to the produce store. It looks particularly good in tandem with a Featherweight Squatter, which was my look way back when, and still is I spose....because it's a perfect fit. Just the thing for when you're setting up your market stall in the dead of winter and hanging around for the sunrise and the punters to arrive.
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Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
Very nice coat Dr Greg.

It seems that any full length brown leather belted coat has a tendency to be called WWI on auction sites everywhere!

In very good nick as well. But be careful with the straight neatsfoot oil, it tends to bugger leather up in the long run. I'd just give it a good going over with RM Williams Saddle Dressing next time, it does a great job and easy to get hold of in Oz.

Enjoy the coat!
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
It'll weaken and rot stitching over time and it can also increase the oxidisation of leather as well. It'll also darken leather but that's not a bad thing if you want that.

Most seem to steer clear of pure neatsfoot oil now for those reasons.
 

Charlie Noodles

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Melbourne, Australia
SIMPSONS GLOVES PTY. LTD.
488-469 Victoria Street building.

History and Description

This brick industrial building wasconstructed in 1920 for A. Bamford Proprietary
Limited, furniture manufacturers. This first occupancy continued until 1925,
when the building was occupied by Beckford Furniture Proprietary Limited. By
1931 Simpsons Gloves Proprietary Limited were occupiers, and this association has
continued to the present.

The building is a finely detailed and executed, early twentieth century industrial structure.
Notable architectural features include brick soldier courses and windows with contrasting render detail. A recessed central entrance is articulated by a drip mould. The trabeated structural system is attractively represented by piers broken by a projecting cornice with supporting consoles and brackets. A simple parapet completes the building.

Statement of Significance

This industrial building has been associated with the manufacturing industry in
Richmond since its construction in 1920. The building is prominently situated in
Victoria Street at the eastern entrance to Richmond. It is a well designed
example ofan early twentieth century industrial building.

References

Sands and McDougall, Melbourne Directory 1915-1931.


17839.jpg
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
Vintage examples of Simpsons gloves turn up- I had a pair similar to RAF gauntlets at one stage.

Neatsfoot- I've had some bad experience with it and heard similar problems from others.
But as I understand it, "Pure Neatsfoot Oil" should be good*- other "Neatsfoot Oils", can contain mineral oil, or other non-organic substances, which WILL, eventually destroy stitching and glues. It will also oxidize over time, leaving the leather, perhaps worse than when treated.

This is actually confirmed* in a Wikipedia entry:

"Prime neatsfoot oil" or "neatsfoot oil compound" are terms used for a blend of pure neatsfoot oil and non-organic oils, generally mineral oil. Although the "Prime" is marketed as "the saddlemaker's choice", many saddle makers actually recommend pure neatsfoot oil for leather goods, particularly saddles. Pure neatsfoot oil has superior softening and preservative properties, the addition of mineral oils often leads to more rapid decay of stitching and speeds breakdown of any adhesive materials that may have been used.

Neatsfoot oil, like other leather dressings, should not be used on important historical objects, as it will oxidize with time, and embrittle the leather even more.[4] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it will inevitably darken the leather, even after a single application, and thus is not a desirable product to use when maintaining a lighter shade is desired. However, for routine use on working equipment, particularly in dry climates, it is a powerful softening and conditioning agent that few modern synthetic alternatives can replace."





http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil

Another bad one is Castor oil- it'll soften tough, or time-hardened leather a treat, miraculously, but the stitching will eventually go.

Nice coat- interesting, a leather coat with a Raglan sleeve.
It does seem military.


B
T
 

Madcap72

One of the Regulars
Messages
156
Location
Seattle WA
At the dive school we go to, neats foot oil is the only thing they use of the leather of the Mk-5 rigs. These things are in the water everyday all day, and most of the leather is original from the 40's. So, as a protective, it works grand!
And yes, the leather is almost black from using it.

As far as stitching? no clue, just throwing my .02 in.
 

dr greg

One Too Many
time will tell

I've used neatsdfoot oil for years as I said, and seen no ill effect of any kind, I have one old jacket that has been given at least 6 coats in 25 years and still holds together...another 25 might be a different story?
Amazing the size of that factory! I expected a huge building.
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
dr greg said:
I've used neatsdfoot oil for years as I said, and seen no ill effect of any kind, I have one old jacket that has been given at least 6 coats in 25 years and still holds together...another 25 might be a different story?
Amazing the size of that factory! I expected a huge building.

Actually Dr Greg, if you have used it for that long without any problems and you're happy with it, I'd say keep on with it.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Great looking coat. Reminds nme a bit of a beautiful, brown leather trenchcoat I tried on in a shop in Belfast years ago, when I was still a student. Told the asking price was £350 (probably equivalent to £800 or so to me nowadays, given that that was about 1997 and I was'nt working at the time), I somehow managed to straight-facedly tell the guy I'd think about it, and maybe come back at the end of the month... lol

I do have a really nice black leather trenchcoat of European origin, probably horsehide, which I bought about ten years ago in Camden Market for £30 (days of that sort of bargain round there are now long gone, sadly!). I'd still love a good brown one for wearing with a suit in the depths of winter - ideally with a blanket lining and a shearling collar.... Very much a WW1 / early days of the RAF look...
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
BellyTank said:
Another bad one is Castor oil- it'll soften tough, or time-hardened leather a treat, miraculously, but the stitching will eventually go.

Castor oil. One of the major reasons that authentic WWI flying coats are probably so rare today.

And Edward, are you going to splash out on that Cirrus one eh ;)
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
That wouldn't be bad at all, but finding original examples and taking them apart to make patterns would be very, very pricey, not to mentioned almost a travesty! If in good condition with authentication they go for vast sums.
 

Atterbury Dodd

One Too Many
Messages
1,061
Location
The South
I don't think John would have to take one apart to make a pretty good pattern. I asked him if he had ever considered making WWI flying jackets, and he said he hadn't, but if a market develops for them he might. He didn't mention having to take one apart to make a copy though. He said since WWI flying jackets are so hard to find, he would probably have to copy one from a museum-- I'm sure they wouldn't let him take their priceless jacket apart!
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
Atterbury Dodd said:
I don't think John would have to take one apart to make a pretty good pattern. I asked him if he had ever considered making WWI flying jackets, and he said he hadn't, but if a market develops for them he might. He didn't mention having to take one apart to make a copy though. He said since WWI flying jackets are so hard to find, he would probably have to copy one from a museum-- I'm sure they wouldn't let him take their priceless jacket apart!

If he can do this without pulling them apart brilliant. But I'd imagine that they would still be horrendously expensive for the punter in the end due to the sheer amount of leather that is required. The majority were lined as well and this will also add to the cost.

I am sure though that if John set his mind to it, he would do a sterling job!
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
I'm no clothing manufacturer but I'd imagine a bit. The majority of WWI flying coats were full length so that means a substantial amount more leather than say, an A-2. Many were lined with a wool blanket lining so there's that, plus further leather for pockets including the largish map pocket which most had and buttons.

John is charging around $US900 for his A-2s so hypothetically speaking and this is just a guess, but if he decided to make a full length WWI flying coat, I'd imagine it wouldn't be for under $US2,000 and maybe even quite a bit more.
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
Also- full length vintage coats and jackets, which were made when there were no shortages of hide, used large, full panels, which means large hides, or pieces thereof.
Contrast this to a late-War Irvin jacket, for example, made from many panels.

Flight -jackets- have smaller panels anyway- consider the back and fronts of an A-1 compared to a full length coat.


When there is the necessity to use large hides or part hides, for the sake of authenticity it will cost.


B
T
 

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