Aero Seven Custom - Recommendations

[BisonT4R]

Hi All,

Very excited to post here for the first time after putting down a deposit for custom Aero Seven with Thurston. I’ve always wanted to go the custom route given my appreciation for craftsmanship and that I’ve had a hell of a time finding a jacket that fits (6’4 190bs with a long torso). I want a lighter weight jacket that eventually conforms to my body (I live in LA) and am looking at three types of leather: Vicenza (in russet), Kelpie (dark green), and unfinished horse. I’m going to do a lighter color contrast stitch and the cotton sateen liner. Given the level of expertise and experience in the forum I would appreciate any thoughts on the leather choices above in terms of best option for a coat that will eventually shape to my body and would be better for mild temps.

A few other notes:

I’m going with angled front pockets and zippers on the hand warmers.

The Wayfarer was my first choice, but I wanted a very trim fit so I ended up going with the Seven.

Has anyone supplied Carrie with custom labels or custom lining for Aero (or Thurston) to add?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Will Zach]

@MrProper is the master of trim fits in Aero products, perhaps he can give you some advice.

 

[BisonT4R]

Thanks a bunch, @Will Zach

A penny for your thoughts, @MrProper !

 

[MrProper]

Thanks a bunch, @Will Zach

A penny for your thoughts, @MrProper !

Very trim fit means p2p also really tight.
I have e.g. fully inhaled around the 45" but my jackets have only 23.75" p2p. Ok for me because I don't walk around fully inhaled all the time. lol
For my stature (6.5/200 lbs) the aero jackets are often too short in the front or too long in the back. I have therefore since come to take my measurement in the back and increase the front drop. This worked well for my PHWM and hopefully will also work for my Boardracer, which will eventually change status to "in production".
Otherwise, I still have the maximum taper that Aero allows, which is about minus 4".
That is it.

Kelpie I do not know, but Vicenza and unfinished HH.
Although unfinished is a bit thinner than Vicenza, it is a bit stiffer. So I would say Vicenza fits the shape of the body better.
Nevertheless, unfinished is a cool leather, if you do not have the requirement that it always remains clean

 

[Jasonindenver]

I have a Seven in Vicenza. I ended up with a 44 (normally 42 in a tailored fit jacket) and added about an inch to the body and 3/4 inch to the sleeve length. It is a snug fit, especially in the armholes and sleeves. This adds to the very clean look of such a slim jacket but does mean that it takes longer to mold to your body. After two years, mine is finally at the point that I do not feel it bind forward arm motion underneath the pits. For this reason alone, I would avoid anything stiffer than Vicenza. Carrie did say Kelpie conforms even faster.

On another point, zippers on the handwarmers look great, but I would advise against it if you are the type that likes to stuff your hands in your pockets when it gets chilly. Too rough. My zipperless pockets still lay perfectly flat.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The boardracer Seven is very slim, literally like a shirt, not a jacket. I have one in green Kelpie with olive stitching. And tartan cotton lining. Kelpie has an oil finish that may feel rubbery to some but it drapes really well. The Vicenza is the one that would actually need the most break in. I would opt for the Badalassi if you are looking at the Vicenza already. If you are going through Thurston they send you a fit jacket to nail the size before ordering.

 

[MrProper]

The Vicenza is the one that would actually need the most break in. I would opt for the Badalassi if you are looking at the Vicenza already.

That's interesting. With me, it's exactly the opposite. Vicenza is "soft", if you want to call it that, and Badalassi is significantly firmer and thicker. Apparently there seem to be major differences there. Or it is all very subjective.

 

[Aloysius]

Is there a reason you've ruled out the goatskin?

 

[Canuck Panda]

That's interesting. With me, it's exactly the opposite. Vicenza is "soft", if you want to call it that, and Badalassi is significantly firmer and thicker. Apparently there seem to be major differences there. Or it is all very subjective.

I do have one Vicenza jacket that is very soft and drape very well, seal brown Aeromarine. But all my other Vicenza jackets (navy, black, blacken brown, olive) have been on the stiffer and thicker side. So I do believe batches matters. However everything breaks in, just matter of time.
The current chestnut badalassi is a bit thinner and requires no break in. That is the case of my recent cafe racer. But the previous Badalassi, black, russet and tobacco are too on the heavier and stiffer side. Although still softer than most of my Vicenza experience. Again batches may give different experience but everything breaks in.
The two kelpie jackets I have green and black are on the lighter side in thickness and requires no break in at all. But the oil finish may feel rubbery to some, and the leather markings shows through more on the kelpie leather.
The Badalassi is only £25 more than the Vicenza, but imo there is more return on investment.

Is there a reason you've ruled out the goatskin?

Everyone always overlook goatskin. We just need a big name tannery to stand behind them and get the word out. Easily the best everyday leather, just no big tannery name.

 

[Aloysius]

Everyone always overlook goatskin. We just need a big name tannery to stand behind them and get the word out. Easily the best everyday leather, just no big tannery name.

I think it feels the most ‘luxurious’ of Aero’s leathers.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think it feels the most ‘luxurious’ of Aero’s leathers.

I like my Aero russet goat. Nice finish and very easy to wear. One thing to keep in mind is OP is very tall. Goatskin aren't very big, there is limitation on sizing, especially if the panels are big and long.

 

[Aloysius]

I like my Aero russet goat. Nice finish and very easy to wear. One thing to keep in mind is OP is very tall. Goatskin aren't very big, there is limitation on sizing, especially if the panels are big and long.

He's 2.5" taller than me so it could be doable since I have a goat Aero, but you might be right; I noticed that the Long Half Belt isn't available in goat for example.

 

[Canuck Panda]

He's 2.5" taller than me so it could be doable since I have a goat Aero, but you might be right; I noticed that the Long Half Belt isn't available in goat for example.

I've tried to get a barnstormer in goat and it was no go. I say under 27" length would be safe.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I've tried to get a barnstormer in goat and it was no go. I say under 27" length would be safe.

Aero really need a blacken brown goat... TEACORE~!

 

[Aloysius]

Aero really need a blacken brown goat... TEACORE~!

I wonder how hard it would be to get a russet goat Aero and give it the “depot redye seal” treatment that was done on wartime A-2s (and some Eastman repros). Would look cool on civilian jackets too.

 

[BisonT4R]

Very trim fit means p2p also really tight.
I have e.g. fully inhaled around the 45" but my jackets have only 23.75" p2p. Ok for me because I don't walk around fully inhaled all the time. lol
For my stature (6.5/200 lbs) the aero jackets are often too short in the front or too long in the back. I have therefore since come to take my measurement in the back and increase the front drop. This worked well for my PHWM and hopefully will also work for my Boardracer, which will eventually change status to "in production".
Otherwise, I still have the maximum taper that Aero allows, which is about minus 4".
That is it.

Kelpie I do not know, but Vicenza and unfinished HH.
Although unfinished is a bit thinner than Vicenza, it is a bit stiffer. So I would say Vicenza fits the shape of the body better.
Nevertheless, unfinished is a cool leather, if you do not have the requirement that it always remains clean

Thanks a bunch for the fit recs, @MrProper. I wear a 40 long in an Italian cut suit (mostly Canali) and will try a 42 in my fit jacket from Thurston. I will also make sure to work off my back measurement and increase the front drop.

In terms of leather for a SoCal jacket, Carrie just recommended the Vicenza in Russet since I'm looking for a rich whiskey/cognac/brandy color for my first custom jacket. I'm trying to incorporate some western aesthetics so I'm looking to get a pointed yoke. I plan on doing a contrast stitch in cream or mint with an olive sateen liner (if I can't send them a Southwestern sateen to use).

For my next jacket (I know you can't just have one) I want to step out and do something different. Per your rec and some additional Fedora browsing it will most likely be the unfinished horse or the dark green Kelpie with some green shade of contrast stitch.

 

[BisonT4R]

I have a Seven in Vicenza. I ended up with a 44 (normally 42 in a tailored fit jacket) and added about an inch to the body and 3/4 inch to the sleeve length. It is a snug fit, especially in the armholes and sleeves. This adds to the very clean look of such a slim jacket but does mean that it takes longer to mold to your body. After two years, mine is finally at the point that I do not feel it bind forward arm motion underneath the pits. For this reason alone, I would avoid anything stiffer than Vicenza. Carrie did say Kelpie conforms even faster.

On another point, zippers on the handwarmers look great, but I would advise against it if you are the type that likes to stuff your hands in your pockets when it gets chilly. Too rough. My zipperless pockets still lay perfectly flat.

Great stuff on measurements for lengthening, and noted on the break-in time. And I do like using handwarmer pockets, but was thinking they wouldn't lay as flat over time if I didn't include zippers. Thoughts here?

 

[Aloysius]

I'm looking for a rich whiskey/cognac/brandy color for my first custom jacket.

Then forget Vicenza (I have and like Vicenza, to be clear) and get Badalassi. The depth of color is unmatched by the other leathers, by a wide margin.

 

[BisonT4R]

The boardracer Seven is very slim, literally like a shirt, not a jacket. I have one in green Kelpie with olive stitching. And tartan cotton lining. Kelpie has an oil finish that may feel rubbery to some but it drapes really well. The Vicenza is the one that would actually need the most break in. I would opt for the Badalassi if you are looking at the Vicenza already. If you are going through Thurston they send you a fit jacket to nail the size before ordering.

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View attachment 511080

Great looking jacket - you smashed the fit. And good to see your shirt comment - that's what I'm looking for. I am getting samples of Vicenza, Unfinished, Kelpie, and Jerky, but will ask Carrie to also send Badalassi.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm trying to incorporate some western aesthetics so I'm looking to get a pointed yoke.

Aero already makes a jacket that’s basically a collared, western take on the Board Racer design. Check out the Wilderness. I absolutely love mine.