Aero Roughout Jerky Horsehide Type III, Size 42: "The Roughneck Brawler"

[Feliksas]

Howdy all,

So, two jackets and a waistcoat in, I decided to trade in my size 38 unfinished Type III and waistcoat towards a roughout size 42 type Type III. The goal of the build was to eliminate points of failure in my other jacket builds, and to permit me to wear the Roughneck Type III in the fall and winter, along with a shirt and sweater, hence the size 42.

Happily, when I wrote in to Aero, our old friend Denny was on the other end of the line, and knowing how I abuse my jackets, offered that I consider some old "teacore" Jerky HH that Aero had at hand. To make for a bomb-proof build, I opted to go lining-free, and to use the traditional buttons; since suede is "weaker" than true roughought, it was a big win to have the option for a "true" roughout vs suede build; we all know that Aero will only make jackets that it "agrees" with (*cough cough* like that time I wanted a Type III with handwarmers), so I was particularly happy that I got the green light:

I call this build the "Roughneck Brawler" because I reckon it it one of the potentially hardest wearing builds that Aero has ever made--it's meant for trouble.

As you can see from the pictures, I begin to suffer abuses upon the jacket today; the photos were taken before the soaking to show what the Jerky HH looks like prior to treatment (I had the jacket built before even receiving samples--with the abuses it will suffer, there's not much use to getting samples ahead of time; also, I trust Denny). I've worn the hot-water soaked jacket now for 7 hours to start to form it, and will take pictures tomorrow to show how it's fared--the sleeve fit is already much improved, and if it's not shrunken, then it's at least better fitted to me. Also, I've mixed up a batch of an improved leather balm, of my own invention: beeswax, neatsfoot oil, and birch pitch, which is common to Eastern Europe, but hard to source elsewhere. Once the jacket is dried and broken in, I'll fully wax it, while also treating the inside with plain-old neatsfoot oil, and post the results.

(QC Sheet when my Roughneck Type III was made)

Style: Type III Jean Jacket
Size: 42"
Leather: Jerky Seal HH (Label says FQHH, fwiw)
Additional Info: Reversed / rough out Jerky
Hardware: Buttons: Copper
Stitch: Olive
Lining: Unlined
Pit to Pit 23"
Shoulders 19.75"
Back 24.25"
Sleeve 25.5"
Hem - At Widest: 20.5"

Lining Cutter: Diego Castiblanco
Leather Cutter: Derek Angelis
Machinist: Amy Burt

Other than that - the hat is a leather Kodiak 1356 from the Outback Trading Company; the shirt is a Helikon Tex "grey-man" shirt; the trousers are 32-32 Varusteleka tactical jeans; and the boots are Meindl Super Perfekt Boots; I'm 182cm, 85kg.

Facta non verba,

Feliks

 

[cbez]

cool. love roughout, especially in this style.

neatsfood on a brand new jacket is probably overkill, but will be interesting to see how it takes the wax treatment.

 

[Will Zach]

Can't wait to see it properly abused.

 

[Olumin]

Can't wait to see it properly abused.

That sentence feels wrong on so many levels.

 

[Bennarion]

It will be interesting to see the result. I think it will be cool

 

[Feliksas]

cool. love roughout, especially in this style.

neatsfood on a brand new jacket is probably overkill, but will be interesting to see how it takes the wax treatment.

I have a "system" that I've grown to like and trust--it's not that the jacket needs the neatsfoot oil, rather, this soaking, drying, and the "anointing" with my balm is it's baptism into a life with me

More to report as the reports come!

F

 

[photo2u]

Love what you guys to the jackets. It is hard for me to bring my self to take such measures. No guts no glory...

 

[barnabus]

Howdy all,

So, two jackets and a waistcoat in, I decided to trade in my size 38 unfinished Type III and waistcoat towards a roughout size 42 type Type III. The goal of the build was to eliminate points of failure in my other jacket builds, and to permit me to wear the Roughneck Type III in the fall and winter, along with a shirt and sweater, hence the size 42.

Happily, when I wrote in to Aero, our old friend Denny was on the other end of the line, and knowing how I abuse my jackets, offered that I consider some old "teacore" Jerky HH that Aero had at hand. To make for a bomb-proof build, I opted to go lining-free, and to use the traditional buttons; since suede is "weaker" than true roughought, it was a big win to have the option for a "true" roughout vs suede build; we all know that Aero will only make jackets that it "agrees" with (*cough cough* like that time I wanted a Type III with handwarmers), so I was particularly happy that I got the green light:

View attachment 629373 View attachment 629374 View attachment 629375 View attachment 629376
View attachment 629378
View attachment 629377 View attachment 629379 View attachment 629380 View attachment 629381

I call this build the "Roughneck Brawler" because I reckon it it one of the potentially hardest wearing builds that Aero has ever made--it's meant for trouble.

As you can see from the pictures, I begin to suffer abuses upon the jacket today; the photos were taken before the soaking to show what the Jerky HH looks like prior to treatment (I had the jacket built before even receiving samples--with the abuses it will suffer, there's not much use to getting samples ahead of time; also, I trust Denny). I've worn the hot-water soaked jacket now for 7 hours to start to form it, and will take pictures tomorrow to show how it's fared--the sleeve fit is already much improved, and if it's not shrunken, then it's at least better fitted to me. Also, I've mixed up a batch of an improved leather balm, of my own invention: beeswax, neatsfoot oil, and birch pitch, which is common to Eastern Europe, but hard to source elsewhere. Once the jacket is dried and broken in, I'll fully wax it, while also treating the inside with plain-old neatsfoot oil, and post the results.

(QC Sheet when my Roughneck Type III was made)

Style: Type III Jean Jacket
Size: 42"
Leather: Jerky Seal HH (Label says FQHH, fwiw)
Additional Info: Reversed / rough out Jerky
Hardware: Buttons: Copper
Stitch: Olive
Lining: Unlined
Pit to Pit 23"
Shoulders 19.75"
Back 24.25"
Sleeve 25.5"
Hem - At Widest: 20.5"

Lining Cutter: Diego Castiblanco
Leather Cutter: Derek Angelis
Machinist: Amy Burt

Other than that - the hat is a leather Kodiak 1356 from the Outback Trading Company; the shirt is a Helikon Tex "grey-man" shirt; the trousers are 32-32 Varusteleka tactical jeans; and the boots are Meindl Super Perfekt Boots; I'm 182cm, 85kg.

Facta non verba,

Feliks

Rock n roll!

 

[Feliksas]

Day Two, after soaking and wearing until dry:

In person, definitely darker; indeed, after soaking, the water was coloured brown, so probably some of the brown "tea-core" dye ran out; all the better. Sleeves have "shortened" nicely, along with decent creases; jacket continues to "stand up" to the Aero HH standard

We've talked about it before here, but again: nice to have a short jacket paired with a high-waisted trouser; the fad of low-rise trousers makes me fear for my future offspring, because I keep trying to hike them up, to disastrous consequence!

Tomorrow, will post waxed photos, and then will go dormant until next year when I give a year's update on the jacket break-in.

-F

 

[cbez]

sleeves really came together

 

[Feliksas]

sleeves really came together

I reckon the soaking-and-wearing method is about the equivalent of 3-4 weeks of daily wear, minus the dirt; certainly when breaking in boots in the army, that's how much time was saved. I guess for the average Aero wearer, who might not wear his or her jacket every day, it might be as much as a few months "sped up" break-in time...

 

[Feliksas]

The first oiling is done. I'm very pleased with the result, but I under-estimated how much product I'd need; usually, when I mix up a 100g batch, it's good for 2-3 jackets+ grain-side, but with this roughneck brawler, I used all 100g and had to ration it, just doing a first pass in most areas. I'm also very pleased with the darkening brought about by the birch-pitch--wow, this is turning into a beauty already!

Here, you can see how I prioritised the seams; for now, it leads to a cool effect of symmetrical dark areas.

At the hem and at the cuff, I gave full wax - this is, eventually, how the whole jacket will look, but I'm travelling and visiting my folks, and don't have the product or the means to make more balm now.

I also did a decent application on the back, as it was easy to do.

A cut in the leather! I didn't find it until I waxed, and QC wouldn't have, either, especially since the grain-side looked fine. It is what it is - the cut doesn't go all the way through, and whatever, it adds to the ruggedness of the jacket. Also, it will soon be even more abused, so...par for the course

A few more shots where you can see how much darker it is, and where;

Not sure if I'll post more pictures until next year - have to wax some more, but you get the gist.

Any questions?

Cheers!

-F

 

[Observe]

Looks good; definitely finish the job to get that more evenly burnished effect. I'd like to see the whole jacket look like the back panel.

 

[Guppy]

Howdy all,

So, two jackets and a waistcoat in, I decided to trade in my size 38 unfinished Type III and waistcoat towards a roughout size 42 type Type III. The goal of the build was to eliminate points of failure in my other jacket builds, and to permit me to wear the Roughneck Type III in the fall and winter, along with a shirt and sweater, hence the size 42.

Happily, when I wrote in to Aero, our old friend Denny was on the other end of the line, and knowing how I abuse my jackets, offered that I consider some old "teacore" Jerky HH that Aero had at hand. To make for a bomb-proof build, I opted to go lining-free, and to use the traditional buttons; since suede is "weaker" than true roughought, it was a big win to have the option for a "true" roughout vs suede build; we all know that Aero will only make jackets that it "agrees" with (*cough cough* like that time I wanted a Type III with handwarmers), so I was particularly happy that I got the green light:

View attachment 629373 View attachment 629374 View attachment 629375 View attachment 629376
View attachment 629378
View attachment 629377 View attachment 629379 View attachment 629380 View attachment 629381

I call this build the "Roughneck Brawler" because I reckon it it one of the potentially hardest wearing builds that Aero has ever made--it's meant for trouble.

As you can see from the pictures, I begin to suffer abuses upon the jacket today; the photos were taken before the soaking to show what the Jerky HH looks like prior to treatment (I had the jacket built before even receiving samples--with the abuses it will suffer, there's not much use to getting samples ahead of time; also, I trust Denny). I've worn the hot-water soaked jacket now for 7 hours to start to form it, and will take pictures tomorrow to show how it's fared--the sleeve fit is already much improved, and if it's not shrunken, then it's at least better fitted to me. Also, I've mixed up a batch of an improved leather balm, of my own invention: beeswax, neatsfoot oil, and birch pitch, which is common to Eastern Europe, but hard to source elsewhere. Once the jacket is dried and broken in, I'll fully wax it, while also treating the inside with plain-old neatsfoot oil, and post the results.

(QC Sheet when my Roughneck Type III was made)

Style: Type III Jean Jacket
Size: 42"
Leather: Jerky Seal HH (Label says FQHH, fwiw)
Additional Info: Reversed / rough out Jerky
Hardware: Buttons: Copper
Stitch: Olive
Lining: Unlined
Pit to Pit 23"
Shoulders 19.75"
Back 24.25"
Sleeve 25.5"
Hem - At Widest: 20.5"

Lining Cutter: Diego Castiblanco
Leather Cutter: Derek Angelis
Machinist: Amy Burt

Other than that - the hat is a leather Kodiak 1356 from the Outback Trading Company; the shirt is a Helikon Tex "grey-man" shirt; the trousers are 32-32 Varusteleka tactical jeans; and the boots are Meindl Super Perfekt Boots; I'm 182cm, 85kg.

Facta non verba,

Feliks

I like this. Rough out leather beats suede for this style of jacket in my opinion. Waxing the outside is a good plan. If Aero would do handwarmers on their Type III, I would order this, with a natural ecru shearling lining.

 

[Feliksas]

I like this. Rough out leather beats suede for this style of jacket in my opinion. Waxing the outside is a good plan. If Aero would do handwarmers on their Type III, I would order this, with a natural ecru shearling lining.

What you describe would be the classic rancher/trucker/Logan jacket, and also what I had in mind when I was putting together this one. Pity about the hand warmers, I don't get why everything else can be mixed and custom, but the handwarmers are somehow anathema to them...

 

[Hide'n'seek]

I like this. Rough out leather beats suede for this style of jacket in my opinion. Waxing the outside is a good plan. If Aero would do handwarmers on their Type III, I would order this, with a natural ecru shearling lining.

Sorry neither option would be a possibility. Handwarmers are simply a no for us, they were only added in the 80's and totally spoiled the look.
Shearling isn't an option due to the way it's constructed. Our Troy Mills blanket is a great option.

 

[Feliksas]

Sorry neither option would be a possibility. Handwarmers are simply a no for us, they were only added in the 80's and totally spoiled the look.
Shearling isn't an option due to the way it's constructed. Our Troy Mills blanket is a great option.

I love that Aero is on it And OK, I (we?) appreciate the explanation...I'm still an Aero man, and still have many jackets in mind for the future...

 

[Guppy]

Sorry neither option would be a possibility. Handwarmers are simply a no for us, they were only added in the 80's and totally spoiled the look.
Shearling isn't an option due to the way it's constructed. Our Troy Mills blanket is a great option.

I know Aero draws a hard line at 1960 for what styles they are interested in producing
But as an 80s kid I always thought the added pockets made the jacket. They added practicality and the way they were constructed created two very useful inside pockets too, just very ingenious and practical, and I loved the look.

I wish I could understand why shearling isn't possible, because they've made sherpa fleece lined truckers for decades, and they are fantastic in the cold months. Real shearling under rough out horse would be amazing. The pinnacle.

 

[Will Zach]

Type III should be short and boxy (like Marc has been saying forever). Some denim makers have been elongating and slimming down Type IIIs to accommodate handwarmer pockets. They look awful on every level. I had a couple of denim jackets like that (before I knew better), hated them, and had them shortened by the width of the hem band. Phew, much better...

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not to hijack the thread, but I too have been fantasizing about a ”real” sherpa look Type 3.

In theory, the inside facing panels can be done in shearling, front, hem, inside cuff, and collar outside facing,

And then the actual lining can be anything to fit your local climate. I always found quilted to be just as warm and can be better than fur on leather in terms of mobility.

So the outside of the jacket will have that “sherpa look” but not necessary a shearling lined jacket which has its own ups and downs. Really only works well in the 6mm length but then why not just go blanket or quilted.

As for the pockets, the OP jacket has inside pockets for storage and I find those sufficient for this pattern. I have hand warmer pockets on Type 3 jackets but I rarely use them because how high they are. And if I add 2” to length it really isn’t a type 3 jacket for me no more.

Also another thing to keep in mind is that the original type three jacket had comparably very slim torso with very wide sleeves. If you upsize the torso to accommodate the shearling then the sleeves will look baggy by compariso.

I have many type 3s, Aero is one of the best imo, you get the original cut, copper buttons and endless leather options, except cxl which is a shame. And don’t go any shorter than their stock length, it’s already short like the original, 1961 I think, 24” length with the shirt collar position it really fits like 23” back length.