Aero leather choices - FQHH, mid-weight horse or goat

[repo]

Mid-weight all the way. The FQHH is 3.0z thick - not all that period accurate - they generally used lighter hides in the old days and heavy hide is not as versatile or comfortable as lighter hide. I get nothing heavier that 2.5oz which I have come to after 30 years of collecting and handling leathers. Goat is great because it is really tough and light.

You simply don't need the FQHH unless you're on a bike. And it's not just about it being Horween horse. I find steer and cowhide at that thickness by the other tanneires as unappealing, even when soft and flexible. Sure, you can wear thick hides and enjoy their looks, that's fine, but you don't have to and you may well find as I do that lighter is more comfortable and enjoyable.

And remember heavier hides don't keep you warmer in winter - it's the layering or the lining that accomplishes that task.

I have tended to go with FQHH which itself has quite a bit of variation in weight and thickness (at least that's what I've seen over the years). I'd definitely consider a lighter hide if / when I got another jacket. I've not seen many original jackets but from what collectors say, the very heavy stuff wasn't used.

 

[alladin]

Thank you for the suggestions so far. I was thinking of getting the premier 1930s halfbelt in a brown leather. The goatskin sample I recieved is very pliable - does goat look any different when it ages?

 

[Edward]

I still love the fqhh, but it's not the only hide in the world. Thr goat is probably closer to the sort of hides these jackets would have been made with back in the day. Fqhh breaks in quick enough if you wear it with any regularity, fwiw. The goat, in my experience, stays newer looking much longer, with less variation in shade across the jacket. This might be an advantage if you want it for a work environment, or anywhere else you want it to keep a little 'smarter'. The Italian horse is lovely, though personally I wouldn't consider it worth the upcharge for me when the goat is available. Ymmv, naturally.

 

[Rudie]

Thank you for the suggestions so far. I was thinking of getting the premier 1930s halfbelt in a brown leather. The goatskin sample I recieved is very pliable - does goat look any different when it ages?

It certainly does. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63912-Custom-Aero-1930s-Slim-Fit-Halfbelt-in-Russet-Goat-Pictures!!!&p=1799049&viewfull=1#post1799049

 

[alladin]

It certainly does. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63912-Custom-Aero-1930s-Slim-Fit-Halfbelt-in-Russet-Goat-Pictures!!!&p=1799049&viewfull=1#post1799049

Rudie, thank you.

 

[Hide'n'seek]

Sloane, are you announcing that Italian HH is now available directly through aero? Given the popularity of a leather first touted by BK I suppose that would make sense.

I think Jeff M's case was an exception, wouldn't you say? Like aero taking five (that's one two three four FIVE) goes to get Cooperson's 30s HB right. Remember that thread? If you've forgotten it I could probably dig it out for you..

At present the Italian Veg tanned is only available through Insurrection .
As far as i knew BK were a Greek operation , i'm sure they were not the first to start using Italian Veg tanned Hides ?

Yes we did take 5 attempts to get Coopersons jacket correct , we were trying out a new collar pattern and there were a couple of teething problems. The fact that we did 4 remakes to get it right is another example of the lengths Aero will go to for customer satisfaction .

 

[Fanch]

This has definitely been one of the better, more informative threads. Given current information, I would buy two jackets if I were in the newbie's shoes: either a brown or burgundy FQHH and a black goatskin. Again, my recommendation is a trip from London to Galashiels, which would be both fun and informative.

 

[Sloan1874]

To take this thread to be where it should be, if I was you, I'd think about when you want to use the jacket. If you're going for a fall/winter jacket, FQHH and a warm liner will keep you going for the duration. A spring/summer jacket, I would go with a lighter goat, with perhaps a cotton liner.
I know there's a lot of buzz about the veg tan hides just now, and they are very nice, but really FQHH looks and feels amazing, and its properties mean that takes on its wearer's character incredibly quickly. It is also incredibly utilitarian, as the best way to get it comfortable is to wear the hell out of it - rain or shine. It's the selvedge denim of leathers: the more you wear it, the better it looks. Certainly, my lhb is the one out of all my jackets that gets the most love from friends and workmates.

 

[alladin]

I like the look of worn FQHH. Does seal jerky HH develop a patina over time?
Goat is also appealing especially having seen Rudie's worn russet goat.

 

[schitzo]

At present the Italian Veg tanned is only available through Insurrection .
As far as i knew BK were a Greek operation , i'm sure they were not the first to start using Italian Veg tanned Hides ?

Yes we did take 5 attempts to get Coopersons jacket correct , we were trying out a new collar pattern and there were a couple of teething problems. The fact that we did 4 remakes to get it right is another example of the lengths Aero will go to for customer satisfaction .

'At present'. So it will be available directly through aero in the near future, correct?

They were the first on here to espouse the virtues of full grain leather over top grain. At the time, most here had no time for what they were saying. Yet now, if the current trend is anything to go by, it seems like most on here seem to choose it when given the option.

I agree that getting it right for Cooperson, eventually, was a better outcome than not getting it right for Cooperson.


Back to the OP's dilemma. Black goatskin has a quality of its own that IMO is no less valuable than that of FQHH's. As Seb Lucas has articulated the heavy horse is going to be heavy and uncomfortable and so for this reason why not enjoy the subtlety and comfort of the black goat? I'm sure you'd be very pleased with it, whereas the FQHH could go either way

 

[Edward]

It certainly does. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63912-Custom-Aero-1930s-Slim-Fit-Halfbelt-in-Russet-Goat-Pictures!!!&p=1799049&viewfull=1#post1799049

Still a great one, Rudi. I hope Alexanders are paying you a royalty for that design.

 

[Worf]

Having just gotten my first and only "lightweight" Aero hide I've yet to make up my mind on the subject. I've 2 jackets in HFQHH that I wear and feel fine in. I just purchased mid-weight horsehide "Bootlegger" from the sale page and the lack of heft is taking some getting used to. Still I know I could wear the lighter jacket and be comfortable in all but most extreme weather conditions, hot or cold. I'm not sure my desciptions help but I wish you luck.

Worf

 

[tonypaj]

To take this thread to be where it should be, if I was you, I'd think about when you want to use the jacket. If you're going for a fall/winter jacket, FQHH and a warm liner will keep you going for the duration. A spring/summer jacket, I would go with a lighter goat, with perhaps a cotton liner.
I know there's a lot of buzz about the veg tan hides just now, and they are very nice, but really FQHH looks and feels amazing, and its properties mean that takes on its wearer's character incredibly quickly. It is also incredibly utilitarian, as the best way to get it comfortable is to wear the hell out of it - rain or shine. It's the selvedge denim of leathers: the more you wear it, the better it looks. Certainly, my lhb is the one out of all my jackets that gets the most love from friends and workmates.

That's just because you are where you are I was sort of in the neighbourhood, saw Gaslight Anthem in Edinburgh last Friday. It was raining sideways, had my "A-2 seal HH leather" Stuart on. It took the rain well, but I wished I had worn FQHH. Then went to London, it rained straight down, I was happy with the Stuart... Here in the Geneva region the lighter jacket rules.

And to the one who asked whether the lighter hides develop patina, yes they do. Just in a bit different kind of way.

 

[gtdean48]

Hi,

I am thinking of placing my first order with Aero - 1930 halfbelt in brown leather

What leather would be most appropriate FQHH, mid-weight horse (seal jerky) or goat?

Aero have sent samples, but it's not the same as seeing a full jacket. Does FQHH develop a unique patina that the others don't?

The mid-weight horse gets my vote.
I have FQHH from Aero in 50s HB, a jerky HH from AL & a goat from Magnoli.
Weight & suppleness goes to the jerky HH.
Love the patina of the FQHH but it is substantial compared to the jerky HH.

 

[mendelboaz]

The FQHH really isn't all that heavy. Compared to my 4.5oz steerhide HWM, the 3oz FQHH feels thin. My Vanson jacket, made out of 3.5-3.75oz cowhide, feels thick but it would have to get a lot thicker before I would be intimidated by the heft of it. I'd call the FQHH a midweight hide (it's very pliable from the get-go, it really isn't as stiff as cardboard like some would have you believe). Anything thinner than 3oz leather just seems flimsy.

 

[repo]

The FQHH really isn't all that heavy. Compared to my 4.5oz steerhide HWM, the 3oz FQHH feels thin. My Vanson jacket, made out of 3.5-3.75oz cowhide, feels thick but it would have to get a lot thicker before I would be intimidated by the heft of it. I'd call the FQHH a midweight hide (it's very pliable from the get-go, it really isn't as stiff as cardboard like some would have you believe). Anything thinner than 3oz leather just seems flimsy.

Depends on the batch of FQHH although the very heavy stuff is not seen as much these days.

 

[tonypaj]

I'd call the FQHH a midweight hide (it's very pliable from the get-go, it really isn't as stiff as cardboard like some would have you believe).

Very pliable? From the get-go? OK...

 

[handymike]

mr. Mendelboaz is a spry lad! not an ancient lovely like most of us ;-)

 

[mendelboaz]

That is true! I do like the heavy stuff, should get a Lost Worlds at some point.

 

[IXL]

^^^Maybe some of these guys can get you hooked up with a suit of armor.