Aero Horsehide stain transfer

[Mike K.]

Is anyone having trouble with the spray dyes or is this just on the oil-pull leathers and aniline dyes? Many of Aero's leathers are tanned/dyed specifically to age rapidly in order to achieve the coveted broken-in look really fast. Finish that ages quickly equals finish that rubs off easily.

From somebody with leather crafting experience, any raw finish will allow the dye to rub off or bleed. You need to seal the finish...it's like putting a coat of polyurethane over stained wood. Leathers often appear very shiny because of a varnish sealant. One can purchase a good water-based sealer (with a matte finish if you don't like the shine) and most likely fix this problem!
http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?number=2270-03

Hope this helps.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Is anyone having trouble with the spray dyes or is this just on the oil-pull leathers and aniline dyes? Many of Aero's leathers are tanned/dyed specifically to age rapidly in order to achieve the coveted broken-in look really fast. Finish that ages quickly equals finish that rubs off easily.

From somebody with leather crafting experience, any raw finish will allow the dye to rub off or bleed. You need to seal the finish...it's like putting a coat of polyurethane over stained wood. Leathers often appear very shiny because of a varnish sealant. One can purchase a good water-based sealer (with a matte finish if you don't like the shine) and most likely fix this problem!
http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?number=2270-03

Hope this helps.

Exactly! If a pigment is designed to 'rub off' (to simulate age rapidly) and the hide is 'pulled up' heavily (so it will show grain quickly) then you are asking for transfer without any form of finish.

Just to add that Aero has responded to customer demand (if evidence on a number of other forums is anything to go by) in providing this feature in their jackets.

Alan

 

[Mike K.]

For anyone interested...
While I don't own a vast collection of leather jackets, I do own sample swatches of just about every leather that Aero sells, as I'm sure some other Lounge members do also. I specifically requested these samples to determine how each leather/finish will wear and age (in addition to seeing color & grain first hand). Want to know how a particular leather/finish will respond to wetness, rubbing against clothing, repeated wear and flexing, gasoline spills, etc.? Amanda at Aero will gladly provide samples of the most current leathers. Sure beats spending big bucks on a jacket with unwanted surprises attached.

 

[Mr. 'H']

I got some samples from Amanda and I am torn between the brown and the vintage brown - would the vintage brown bleed more easily?

What about wearing in?

 

[Kevin Popejoy]

Mr. H,
I think that's what Mike was getting at. If you have samples of the leather in question, submit it to some tests. Rub it on a piece of light colored cloth. Maybe get it a damp and try the same. See what happens. If the leather is going to bleed this should give you an indication.

Kevin

 

[jake431]

I had an Aero Cafe Racer in black FQHH and it had the tag mentioning that since it was tanned like horsehide in the 20's, some staining might result, but I never had a problem. Of course, it was their standard FQHH, not the "vintage" stuff, and I liked it enough that when I can afford it, I'll likely order another jacket in their standard FQHH rather than anything else.

My 2 cents.

-Jake

 

[Alan Eardley]

Is there any real evidence that leather clothing used to lose its pigment in the 1920s?

Alan

 

[jake431]

Is there any real evidence that leather clothing used to lose its pigment in the 1920s?

Alan

I have no idea; frankly I doubt it. But - that claim Aero makes was mentioned earlier in the thread, so I wanted to mention that my jacket also had that tag when I got it. Not that it actually did bleed color that I remember.

-Jake

 

[Markbcvg]

Solutions?

My black Barnstormer has also faded on a few shirts - especially when damp due to weather or perspiration.

If we want the bleed to stop it seems a coating of some sort is the answer. Not doing so, sending it back, etc. won't address the problem, if you want to keep the jacket...

So, the solution that seemed the best was to use Tandy Sheen to "coat" the leather to prevent color bleed. Has any tried this? Did it work/not work?

I have some Sheen and may experiment by putting some on the inside front at the waist to see if that helps prevent bleed on clothing. Anyone else attempting to find solutions?

Mark

 

[jacketquest]

If you apply a coating to the leather will that prevent the absorbsion of conditioner later on? And is there a possibility that the coating will harden and cause cracking/crazing?

 

[perrins57]

colour transfer

I've had problems with colour transfer on a Brown Highwayman, not to clothes, but to the seat (cream leather) of my Car. If its pouring down with rain (which it does often here in Wales) you don't want to take your jacket off every time you enter your motor! I've treated my Aero the same way as my Seal Eastman A2, using Pecards to cover up scratches and help with the initial loosening up of the jacket, but I've had no colour transfer with darker coloured Eastman.

Any suggestions of how to remove the dye from the seat of my Honda much appreciated

 

[jacketquest]

I've had problems with colour transfer on a Brown Highwayman, not to clothes, but to the seat (cream leather) of my Car. If its pouring down with rain (which it does often here in Wales) you don't want to take your jacket off every time you enter your motor! I've treated my Aero the same way as my Seal Eastman A2, using Pecards to cover up scratches and help with the initial loosening up of the jacket, but I've had no colour transfer with darker coloured Eastman.

Any suggestions of how to remove the dye from the seat of my Honda much appreciated

I've had the same problem. If anyone can suggest a leather cleaner that will get this out, please let me know.

 

[birddog]

I've had leather jackets since my original Navy goatskin G2 issued in 1971. Also, I used to be an amateur leather worker, turning out bags, sandals etc.

Good leather should never lose dye. If the jacket stains, return it regardless, demand your money back & threaten to tell the world about their lousy product.

Also, I have never used anything except a small amount of neasfoot oil for restoration. I don't believe Picard or anything else will do much good in the long run.

I have 6 jackets, some over 45 yrs, old that are as supple & comfortable as new, all with only a minimum of cleaning & care.

If you buy a new jacket, goatskin will give the longest life. Horsehide will distress the fastest for a "vintage" look & is the most water repellent. Cowhide will look new forever & is quite heavy but practically bullet proof. Lambskin is the lightest & will also distress quickly, but can also tear easily.

Birddog