Aero Horsehide Samples

[samo]

Hey Dan, what do You think about the scratch - abrasion resistance of the new Vincenza vs Horween FQHH?

 

[Azog]

After you've done all your other tests it would be interesting to do water tests on the Vincenza seeing as it is vegetable tanned. Measuring the sample before and after. Photos helpful too.

 

[dan_t]

Hey Dan, what do You think about the scratch - abrasion resistance of the new Vincenza vs Horween FQHH?

Interesting question.
Note, I grabbed the sample and intentionally dragged it along the brickwork to damage the top layer.
In my opinion, the colour layer on the FQHH seems to be thicker & more durable.
As mentioned though, this was intentional & they are ALL very sturdy pieces of horse. They're not likely to suffer from normal wear.

 

[Sloan1874]

It's a heavily oiled leather (CXL is an example) that will lighten in color when bent, because the oils and color will actually "flow" within the leather. Thus, when the leather is bent, the pressure at the bend point pushes the oils and color away. Conversely, when you have a scratch or smudge on the leather, it can "self heal" by simply rubbing the area, heating it up with friction and allowing some oils to flow back into the damaged area.

Nicely put!

 

[Damo]

it is the oils the fqhh isn't a pull up leather I am assuming

Thanks, now on to find out what a pull up leather is.

 

[Damo]

It's a heavily oiled leather (CXL is an example) that will lighten in color when bent, because the oils and color will actually "flow" within the leather. Thus, when the leather is bent, the pressure at the bend point pushes the oils and color away. Conversely, when you have a scratch or smudge on the leather, it can "self heal" by simply rubbing the area, heating it up with friction and allowing some oils to flow back into the damaged area.

Thanks for teaching me something new. So it sounds like a pull up leather is a good thing? Or does it come down to personal preference or intended purpose of jacket?

So there is pull up leather, are the other types chrome tanned and veg tanned?

 

[rocketeer]

Thanks for teaching me something new. So it sounds like a pull up leather is a good thing? Or does it come down to personal preference or intended purpose of jacket?

So there is pull up leather, are the other types chrome tanned and veg tanned?

I thought it was called 'Oil Pull'
Personally I would pick the colour and weight that you like, get it made and wear it, otherwise you may end up paranoid you have the wrong jacket when in fact it is perfect.
I have a few Aero jackets, some steer some Front quarter horse. My latest Teamster is Aero standard brown Front Quarter,(looks like a horse chestnut) but as to CXL? Chrome or veg I have no idea.
What I do know is Aero make fantastic leather jackets and I am probably the most blatant shill for Aero you will ever meet though I dont like every style.

My ordering criteria:

Pick style.
Pick leather.
Pick colour.
Order jacket.
Receive jacket
Try on.
Enjoy

John

 

[pawineguy]

Thanks for teaching me something new. So it sounds like a pull up leather is a good thing? Or does it come down to personal preference or intended purpose of jacket?

So there is pull up leather, are the other types chrome tanned and veg tanned?

Personal preference. Some people like the color variation that comes with pull-up and others don't. They are usually chrome tanned or combination tanned, but it's an extra step of hot-stuffing or otherwise impregnating the leather with oil and wax, usually at the same time as the color is added. (aniline)

 

[pawineguy]

I thought it was called 'Oil Pull'
Personally I would pick the colour and weight that you like, get it made and wear it, otherwise you may end up paranoid you have the wrong jacket when in fact it is perfect.
I have a few Aero jackets, some steer some Front quarter horse. My latest Teamster is Aero standard brown Front Quarter,(looks like a horse chestnut) but as to CXL? Chrome or veg I have no idea.
What I do know is Aero make fantastic leather jackets and I am probably the most blatant shill for Aero you will ever meet though I dont like every style.

My ordering criteria:

Pick style.
Pick leather.
Pick colour.
Order jacket.
Receive jacket
Try on.
Enjoy

John

Oil pull is synonymous with pull-up. Pull-up is the term that is used by Horween for CXL, which is the most well-known pull-up leather. It's combination tanned, meaning chrome tanned first, then vegetable tanned.

 

[Superfluous]

It's combination tanned, meaning chrome tanned first, then vegetable tanned.

My vague understanding derived from anecdotal hearsay -- and I certainly could be mistaken -- is that a combination tanned leather generally does not employ the same lengthy veg tanning process as straight veg tanning. In other words, the veg tanning component of the combination tan is an abbreviated veg tanning. Again, I am not an authority on this and my hearsay sources could be erroneous.

 

[Edward]

The tumbled cordovan in my bootlegger is definitely slightly thinner than the regular FQHH in my other jackets, it could be just a difference in batch but I was under the impression that the tumbled does come out slightly thinner and lighter and not "just" tumbled and was one of the reasons I chose it.

Ah, course... I keep forgetting that the tumbled isn't exactly the same as the 'vintaged'... may be different a bit, given different processing. Of course, the nature of leather as an organic material does mean it can change from batch to batch as you say.

I thought it was called 'Oil Pull'
Personally I would pick the colour and weight that you like, get it made and wear it, otherwise you may end up paranoid you have the wrong jacket when in fact it is perfect.
I have a few Aero jackets, some steer some Front quarter horse. My latest Teamster is Aero standard brown Front Quarter,(looks like a horse chestnut) but as to CXL? Chrome or veg I have no idea.
What I do know is Aero make fantastic leather jackets and I am probably the most blatant shill for Aero you will ever meet though I dont like every style.

My ordering criteria:

Pick style.
Pick leather.
Pick colour.
Order jacket.
Receive jacket
Try on.
Enjoy

John

Shill? I thought the correct term nowadays was "fanboy". [huh]

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Shill? I thought the correct term nowadays was "fanboy". [huh]

Actually I think a 'FanBoy' must personally reveal and publically admit his specific allegiance before he can be rightfully called a shill....

 

[pawineguy]

My vague understanding derived from anecdotal hearsay -- and I certainly could be mistaken -- is that a combination tanned leather generally does not employ the same lengthy veg tanning process as straight veg tanning. In other words, the veg tanning component of the combination tan is an abbreviated veg tanning. Again, I am not an authority on this and my hearsay sources could be erroneous.

That's correct, since it's already been tanned, the idea is to just impart some of those characteristics of a veg tanned leather in addition to the durability of the chrome tanning.

 

[Sockeye]

Fastest way to "vintage" my new steerhide jacket was to fall on my arse on the ice yesterday!

 

[Mark]

That's correct, since it's already been tanned, the idea is to just impart some of those characteristics of a veg tanned leather in addition to the durability of the chrome tanning.

I am sure I read that veg tanned leather does not take any longer to tan/process than chrome tanned leather. Reason veg tanned leather is a bit more pricey/desirable is because it is a more complex and skilled craft.

 

[pawineguy]

I am sure I read that veg tanned leather does not take any longer to tan/process than chrome tanned leather. Reason veg tanned leather is a bit more pricey/desirable is because it is a more complex and skilled craft.

Doesn't sound correct. Chrome tanning can be completed in less than a day (just the tanning portion of the process), while veg tanning takes weeks to complete. I totally agree that a pure vegetable tanning is more complex than pure chromium salts, but each tanner has their own unique formulas and processes. For instance, which plant tannins to use for their vegetable tanning, which oils and waxes to apply after the tanning, etc... Each form of tanning, or combination of the two, yields its own set of characteristics, some positive, and some negative.

 

[Superfluous]

^ Thats my understanding. In fact, some veg tanning takes months to complete.

 

[handymike]

Shinki takes 6 months to vegi tan their hides

 

[dan_t]

Ah, I love this place.Discussions have a way of veering off on a tangent sometimes. Although I guess technically speaking discussing various tanning methods is all ralated to the original topic

I'm curious though if my experience with these samples echo's others when it comes to the Tumbled vs normal FQHH in Brown.

If you have a look at the images taken in direct sunlight, you will see that the Cordovan samples vary little in colour between the tumbled / normal samples, where as with the Brown, the Tumbled is significantly lighter than the normal sample. In fact, I would say that the tumbling process has lightened it so much that it is comparable to the russet in the Vicenza.

Any input?

 

[pawineguy]

Ah, I love this place.Discussions have a way of veering off on a tangent sometimes. Although I guess technically speaking discussing various tanning methods is all ralated to the original topic

I'm curious though if my experience with these samples echo's others when it comes to the Tumbled vs normal FQHH in Brown.

If you have a look at the images taken in direct sunlight, you will see that the Cordovan samples vary little in colour between the tumbled / normal samples, where as with the Brown, the Tumbled is significantly lighter than the normal sample. In fact, I would say that the tumbling process has lightened it so much that it is comparable to the russet in the Vicenza.

Any input?

That IS consistent with my experience.