I got to really like the HWM design, but I'm worried about the sweep of the jacket. I have slim-athletic build and apparently the Roadster is more fitted?
The design is not "fitted" at all, but is loose and boxier.
Many size down 2 sizes and add length to the body and sleeves to get a "snugger fit". If you want fitted, give the 30's highwayman a try.
The Roadster has a 1 size neater fit than the heritage Highwayman .. overall a 42" Roadster is approximate to a 40" Highwayman (I have no idea re. the 59 highwayman or the Sheen or the 30's Highwayman ... I don't have any of those !) ... all I can state is that compared to a 40" Highwayman the 42" roadster has slightly narrower armholes and sleeves ( about 1-11/2" at the top, less taper, more straight and less boxy design), a 2" narrower waist and 1" narrower shoulders ( sleeve length is identical as I had both shortened to 25" and storm cuffs removed) and back length 1" shorter on the Roadster.
I don't have pics for the 40" Highwayman ... but I'm sure I've posted some before
I think I also posted measurements off of a 44" Roadster vs a 42" Highwayman ( both of which I sold a few months ago). Ideally you'd need to try them .... fit is such a subjective thing. Speak to the manufacturer and get ACTUAL measurements as even the same model jacket can vary depend on construction .. it might only be 1/2" or perhaps 1" .. but that can count for a lot when we all wear our jackets differently.
Highwayman :
Pro's - Heritage, Boxy Design .. it's an Aero and a Highwayman!
Cons - Price, Delivery ( unless you go through Insurrection or can get an off the shelf item ), customisation, not too trim
Roadster
Pros - Price, Delivery, Customisation, Slightly Trimmer Design
Cons - Heritage - It's not an Aero but it's as close as you will get , not as Boxy,
I have discounted resale ( I have bought many Highwayman jackets for less than £200 and sold Highwayman jackets for less than £200 ( Ken Calder bought my wifes for £165 ... I think I paid £125 for it and £25 for a reline ... I think we both won). I have sold 2 Roadsters ( a Black CXL Steer one and Brown "Warhawk" one) for £250 + and bought BRAND NEW ( Oilpull sterer - the one in the picture) for £300 so you pays yer money and takes yer choice.
I have also discounted leather choice ... Aero has CXL FQHH / AL has "Warhawk" which is the same tannage as CXL without hand glazing. Colours available are similar. Aero has an edge with Veg Tanned hides IMHO, Alexanders has an edge with exotics ( Mongolian Horse etc.) .... both have really nice goat, really nice suede ... both you need to speak to directly to get access to hides not on the website drop down menus.
I have also discounted design features - American cuff, shallow V Yoke, Collar, waist level cinch straps etc. as all are identical between the jackets.
IMHO ... and without bias .....
If you want a cheaper price and fast delivery with customisation - go Roadster
If you want Heritage, CXL FQHH or Veg Tanned Hide - go Highwayman
with the Highwayman and Thurston you get fit jackets also and exceptional service on the same continent ( which is a huge bonus if you're from the USA)
If you are in the USA - Go Thurston
Either way ... you'll get a great jacket
P.S. The pictured jacket - 42" Roadster - was straight out of the box ... recieved for Xmas and is oilpull steer.
If you have seen my other threads with pics you will see I'm relatively slim at 5"10" and 80kg, to get the boxy cut of the roadster to fit my shoulders (not "big" but I do regularly train with weights and am thicker through the shoulders and chest than I look) meant there was simply too much excess / loose fabric around the midsection, it just looked terrible. It flat out just didn't look as good as a pattern designed for a slimmer guy.
It wasn't that I had the wrong size either, I tried both 40 (too small) and 42 (fit the shoulders well) but sold it fairly quickly as it just didn't suit my body both were too big in the mid section.
Its a great classic jacket for guys with a little more girth shall we say, if you're slim I really urge you to go for a jacket designed for a slimmer guy.
If you are adamant you want one, do yourself a favour and go the insurrection route so you get a fit jacket.
I have a size 42 Aero highwayman in FQHH dark brown for sale on ebay. Alas, too big. The learning curve....
I'm looking for a 42 half belt, or a 38 or 40 highwayman if anyone knows of one out there.
@Sockeye, I would private message you but you don't have that privilege yet. I have a 30s half belt in seal goatskin that I was planning on selling in the near future. It has a tweed lining and contrast stitching, and has only been outside once. It's a great looking jacket and I would let it go at a hot price to someone on the board. If you are interested we can take the conversation offline and not muddy up this thread.
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