Aero half belt. Advice needed

[sweetfights]

Totally agree. Heaviest hide imaginable and one solid back were THE thing when I started reading here. Times certainly have changed and I think for the better (visually anyway). I think Aero has quietly tweaked some design elements and it's made the jackets all the better. My 2012 j106 had useless gussets, no yoke and a massive back piece. That size 44" jacket was twice as restrictive than my 40" BL!
Also of note and as witnessed with your Himel, the higher armhole placement actually increases mobility, rather than decreases it. Arms can move independently of the jackets body. There's no drag on the body of the jacket when moving your arms. Bleeding edge armor effect if you will.

I too like the higher half belt and rear yoke
I am even playing with the idea of a front yoke with no chest pocket

 

[ton312]

I too like the higher half belt and rear yoke
I am even playing with the idea of a front yoke with no chest pocket

Oh man. That would be awesome!

 

[Edward]

As usual there are some real inconsistencies in jacket measurements.
I am trying to get the best range for fit. In searching Aero and Thurston the measures are all over the place.

Unless memory is failing me, Thurston's stock jackets are all ordered at a standard 1" longer than Aero's stock patterns.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I remember that when the ELMC Californian came out, people complained about the belt being too high and wanting it to be more like your old Bootlegger. They also didn't like the multi piece back, it was seen as inferior.
Funny how things change!

Ha ha funny you should mention that because I was definitely in that camp at the time, there are probably posts here somewhere of me criticising the jacket for those very reasons....now I’m obsessing over which size to buy and am bugging poor Charles at HPA (who has a 40) and Gary at Eastman (who has a 42) re measurements of specific jackets before I pull the trigger on one.

Never say never!

 

[sweetfights]

Ha ha funny you should mention that because I was definitely in that camp at the time, there are probably posts here somewhere of me criticising the jacket for those very reasons....now I’m obsessing over which size to buy and am bugging poor Charles at HPA (who has a 40) and Gary at Eastman (who has a 42) re measurements of specific jackets before I pull the trigger on one.

Never say never!

Keep us posted on the size variations and measures. I am currently obsessing too.

 

[Corky Corcovado]

I love the 50's Half Belt. I chose this as my close fitting summer jacket and sized down. I have at least a 40 in. Chest and this is a size 36 labeled jacket. It is a little tight in the chest but looks stunning (I think). I still want a 38 and I'm waiting for Guppy to lower the price on his!

 

[Guppy]

View attachment 113689
I love the 50's Half Belt. I chose this as my close fitting summer jacket and sized down. I have at least a 40 in. Chest and this is a size 36 labeled jacket. It is a little tight in the chest but looks stunning (I think). I still want a 38 and I'm waiting for Guppy to lower the price on his!

Ha! Well it's a great jacket. I think a 38 would probably suit you, too. I might be able to come down a little, send me a private message and let me know what you think is fair, and I will see if we can't work something out.

 

[sweetfights]

I've got this shot of the 30's HB. 50's HB had a full action back, sadly don't have a pic. Here's the 30's. Shoulder gussets and a single yolk. That back config is my jam apparently.
View attachment 113492

Ton
I love the placement of your half belt here. Would you happen to have any photos with tape measure of how long the jacket was and where the belt measured at??? I want to replicate, approximately, your half belt position.

 

[sweetfights]

Very good questions here Sweetfights, and I agree with what has already been posted above. I briefly had a '50's HB which I did not find fit me all that well. However I still have and love this Steerhide 30's HB which came out of Thurston Brothers. It has been a fit jacket for a year before I bought it (so free break-in) and is lined with simple black cotton drill. It's one of the heavier Steerhide Aero's I've owned. I purchased the 4-pocket Cafe Racer first (which fits very similar to your LW Easy Ryder that I purchased from you and really enjoy). Both of those are very snug fitting. For the 30's HB I wanted a little more room to allow for thicker shirts, or a sweatshirt underneath. Mission accomplished there. This is a Daily driver of a jacket for me, it sees a lot of use.

Here's the dimensions:
Size 44 as per tag
Shoulders: 19.5"
Pit to Pit: 23.5"
Waist: 21"
Sleeve Straight Down: 25.5"
Sleeve Around: 26.5"
Torso length: 23"
Back length: 26"
Apx dip from side to center of front bottom: 1.25"

Fit photos:
View attachment 113484 View attachment 113485 View attachment 113486

how many inches from the bottom on the jacket is your half belt??

 

[sweetfights]

It's funny b/c my first BL had the HB placed lower. The 30's HB and recent BL did in fact move the belt up higher. I prefer the higher belt. It allows for a neater looking fit overall. Check it:
Cordo 2015:
View attachment 113540
Brown 2017:
View attachment 113541
Another thing, at least in my opinion, the yolk and gussets help shape the shoulders and upper back. Aero has improved the design of their gussets as well. I noticed right away when I received the brown BL. They function so much better than my 2012 j-106.

The gussets definitely make the shoulders and back look better. And I could not agree more on the higher sitting belt.
Ton, can you please show a photo with tape measure of your brown BL. I would like to see exactly where your half belt sits in proportion to the jacket length.

 

[ton312]

The gussets definitely make the shoulders and back look better. And I could not agree more on the higher sitting belt.
Ton, can you please show a photo with tape measure of your brown BL. I would like to see exactly where your half belt sits in proportion to the jacket length.

Will do man.

Total length is bang on 27".

 

[sweetfights]

Will do man.
View attachment 113788
Total length is bang on 27".

Thanks Ton!

 

[sweetfights]

27" back:

26" back:

25" back:

As you can see, the shortest one is actually the one that fits best in this case, just because the proportions of the whole jacket work best on my frame.

How tall are you?

 

[Carlos840]

How tall are you?

6'2" 188cm

 

[sweetfights]

6'2" 188cm

Thank you -- Would you say you have a long torso for your height?
I am 5 '9" but have a long torso

 

[Cooperson]

Don’t know if this helps or not but here’s a look at the back of my size 40” 30’s Premier half belt.

 

[sweetfights]

View attachment 113964 Don’t know if this helps or not but here’s a look at the back of my size 40” 30’s Premier half belt.

Thank you. I do like the double yoke and pleated belt. I wonder how the double yoke would look with shoulder gussets???
May I ask your chest measure and height? How long is the back?

 

[sweetfights]

Is the premier what the 30's half belt is by default??

 

[handymike]

No- different collar shape and different measurements.

 

[sweetfights]

No- different collar shape and different measurements.

Thanks!