Aero custom order help: First buy, CR

[Jin431]

he's going to source the copper for me, going to be a surprise.

I'll double check with him, but all my jackets and even the 5 star I built from scratch, are only 1 maybe 1.5 inches (total measurement, not just one side) bigger on waist (like belly button area lets say) against my actual body measurement. And the bottom hem or hip I guess, is 1 inch tops, again, full circle measurement.

If you went 5 inches over your body measurement and it's that snug, I'm wondering what's causing that. How off do you think the shoulders are? That might create a narrowing effect if you were way off, but I don't think .25 inch or so is going to make that much difference. How baggy is it in the back because the front looks very snug. Sorry, not trying to harp or anything, just curious.

Shoulders are 0.5" off, it needs that extra length on both side so it is more relaxed and drapes better. The look is perfect but it's more about the feel for me here, if it's just about the shoulder fit.

No man I'm happy to share and hope it will help you decide better. The back isn't baggy at all. I think it's just the cut of the pattern since there is no half belt to stiffen up the lower back.

Here is the back photo, you can't really tell but the side view pictures kinda shows it.

 

[Jin431]

I basically told Greg I want 18 shoulder 22 ptp 19.5 bottom hem. Simply based on experience. But that's pretty tight considering my chest measures 43'.
Depending on the style of the jacket, I choose ptp between 22' and 23'. 22' will only allow for a t-shirt. 23' allows for a sweater. I personally think the cr style should be worn skin tight, exactly like @Jin431 wears his. This is how I wear mine. View attachment 281855 View attachment 281856

My FL jacket has the exact same shoulder and p2p as the above cr but the bottom hem is more narrow.
View attachment 281857

I want to be able to wear my next FL jacket with a sweater so I'm going to ask for 18.5 shoulder 22.5 p2p.

The Thedi I bought (and sold) this week had a 19' shoulder 23' p2p 21' bottom hem. Which was too wide for my taste. I'm wearing it with a thick sweater. View attachment 281858

So I basically know my wiggle room which is between the cr and the Thedi.

How about your actual waist measurement compared to that black cafe racer? Looks like @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead wants that same fit too.

Cafe racers look cooler that way when it's just a little tight/uncomfortable.
Better take pictures before a good meal hehe

Agree on the measurements, it's just about knowing what works for you (lots of trial and error for me).

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I basically told Greg I want 18 shoulder 22 ptp 19.5 bottom hem. Simply based on experience. But that's pretty tight considering my chest measures 43'.
Depending on the style of the jacket, I choose ptp between 22' and 23'. 22' will only allow for a t-shirt. 23' allows for a sweater. I personally think the cr style should be worn skin tight, exactly like @Jin431 wears his. This is how I wear mine. View attachment 281855 View attachment 281856

My FL jacket has the exact same shoulder and p2p as the above cr but the bottom hem is more narrow.
View attachment 281857

I want to be able to wear my next FL jacket with a sweater so I'm going to ask for 18.5 shoulder 22.5 p2p.

The Thedi I bought (and sold) this week had a 19' shoulder 23' p2p 21' bottom hem. Which was too wide for my taste. I'm wearing it with a thick sweater. View attachment 281858

So I basically know my wiggle room which is between the cr and the Thedi.

perfect. yes, agree with everything you said. If you're taking your body measurements with a tshirt on, obviously not as thick as leather will be, so you need to figure another .25 for that. And then I think adding 1 to 1.5 inches to total circle measurement (not just one side) depending on what you want to wear underneath is snug to safe.

 

[Marc mndt]

How about your actual waist measurement compared to that black cafe racer? Looks like

I'm not sure that will be helpful since this one pocket Harley Davidson sportster has a huge flair which is unusual for a cr.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

How about your actual waist measurement compared to that black cafe racer? Looks like @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead wants that same fit too.

Cafe racers look cooler that way when it's just a little tight/uncomfortable.
Better take pictures before a good meal hehe

Agree on the measurements, it's just about knowing what works for you (lots of trial and error for me).

LOL. That's what I told Greg. I want to be able to eat a plate of pasta every once in a while.

Now I see the extra width from the side shot. It's amazing his pattern though, it looks so snug from front. Yeah, I think the shoulders are giving you the impression it's snugger than what it really is. Makes sense since there's more mass (not to mention movement, so you'll feel more constricted) on the top half.

I bet you could shave 2 or 3 inches (so 1ish inch each side) in the torso especially if you compensated with the shoulders. If you have one of those binder clips, on the back of the jacket, like little lower than your pits, pinch 1.5 inches (so that's actually 3 because it's 1.5 on each side) and then clip on the binder clip. And do it at the very bottom of the jacket, maybe an inch this time. Then try the jacket on. It'll blow your mind the difference. That's how I figured out my 141 was badly sized. For a while I thought it was too small and wasn't allowing the biswing back to settle, but it was the opposite. It was too big and the elastic wasn't even creating tension to suck everything in.

 

[Jin431]

perfect. yes, agree with everything you said. If you're taking your body measurements with a tshirt on, obviously not as thick as leather will be, so you need to figure another .25 for that. And then I think adding 1 to 1.5 inches to total circle measurement (not just one side) depending on what you want to wear underneath is snug to safe.

So 1.5-2" on top off actual body measurements for a slim fit jacket. That will be so nice to wear

I'm not sure that will be helpful since this one pocket Harley Davidson sportster has a huge flair which is unusual for a cr.

Thanks for sharing man. I'm getting my FL fit jacket based off your black custom next week

 

[Jin431]

LOL. That's what I told Greg. I want to be able to eat a plate of pasta every once in a while.

Now I see the extra width from the side shot. It's amazing his pattern though, it looks so snug from front. Yeah, I think the shoulders are giving you the impression it's snugger than what it really is. Makes sense since there's more mass (not to mention movement, so you'll feel more constricted) on the top half.

I bet you could shave 2 or 3 inches (so 1ish inch each side) in the torso especially if you compensated with the shoulders. If you have one of those binder clips, on the back of the jacket, like little lower than your pits, pinch 1.5 inches (so that's actually 3 because it's 1.5 on each side) and then clip on the binder clip. And do it at the very bottom of the jacket, maybe an inch this time. Then try the jacket on. It'll blow your mind the difference. That's how I figured out my 141 was badly sized. For a while I thought it was too small and wasn't allowing the biswing back to settle, but it was the opposite. It was too big and the elastic wasn't even creating tension to suck everything in.

Yes, the pattern works wonders for sure. It looks tight but I can zip up the jacket all the way up and button the snap with no problems at all. Agree with the shoulder asssessment but it's my fault giving out a denim jacket measurement without accounting for the leather material in use.

No cigar on the binder clip trick on the torso as it's really snug already. I can pinch a little at the bottom hem so maybe for my next order I'll go for 18.25" instead.

 

[Marc mndt]

So 1.5-2" on top off actual body measurements for a slim fit jacket. That will be so nice to wear



Thanks for sharing man. I'm getting my FL fit jacket based off your black custom next week

Same design? Thats cool! That is going to look great on you!

 

[Jin431]

Same design? Thats cool! That is going to look great on you!

Thanks man for paving the way. Mostly, exactly the same front design with nickel hardware but a different back design based on this guy. Not sure if I want a back yoke yet or not.

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks man for paving the way. Mostly, exactly the same front design with nickel hardware but a different back design based on this guy. Not sure if I want a back yoke yet or not.

View attachment 281863

I think it's great that Greg allows us to combine the different design elements we like into one jacket. But that's just the start. It's crucial to get the proportions / dimensions right because if you don't you'll end up with a mix and match jacket which looks incoherent. That's where Greg's expertise comes in. He has a very good eye for proportions.

 

[Pandemic]

I’m just throwing a bunch of measurements and photos of me in different jackets at Greg and asking him to make it as slim as possible while still allowing some movement.

I think maybe next year I will be back for a CR order - @Jin431 ’s jacket looks absolutely perfect to my eye.

 

[Jin431]

I think it's great that Greg allows us to combine the different design elements we like into one jacket. But that's just the start. It's crucial to get the proportions / dimensions right because if you don't you'll end up with a mix and match jacket which looks incoherent. That's where Greg's expertise comes in. He has a very good eye for proportions.

So true, very lucky that guy is so patient and skilled we can request things like this from him.

I’m just throwing a bunch of measurements and photos of me in different jackets at Greg and asking him to make it as slim as possible while still allowing some movement.

I think maybe next year I will be back for a CR order - @Jin431 ’s jacket looks absolutely perfect to my eye.

Yes, throwing measurements and having him make it to spec is wonderful. Most makers won't entertain us for that.

I'm sure you'll be back after the first order lol you'll be very happy with the fit and construction of your jacket plus the leather is world class too. Thanks man

 

[Pandemic]

I started by sending Greg my guesses at what I needed but I soon realised that I’m better off giving him a lot of precise measurements of me and my jackets and then describing the fit that I want - better than me trying to tell him the chest and waist measurements that will work for me.

 

[MrProper]

Maybe request a fit jacket? Or maybe let's ask @MrProper and @Marc mndt what they did with their torso measurements.

I like my jackets to be tight or well-fitting, so the jacket measurements are close to my body measurements, depending on the material thickness and desired space.
Most of the jackets have half body circumference plus 1.5" to 1.75".
So with a chest size of 43.3" in the relaxed state, this results in a jacket p2p of 23.2" to 23.5" and at 34.25" hip I have 19.3" to 20" jacket waistband. For the natural waist I usually take the same measurement as the jacket waistband. Body measurements naked.

 

[Marc mndt]

Body measurements naked.

Just like this guy? I think he might have mixed up cm's and inches.

 

[MrProper]

lol

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

He's got a lot more lifting to do to MrProperly fit into that jacket. No days off!!!!!

 

[MrProper]

Better?

 

[Jin431]

I like my jackets to be tight or well-fitting, so the jacket measurements are close to my body measurements, depending on the material thickness and desired space.
Most of the jackets have half body circumference plus 1.5" to 1.75".
So with a chest size of 43.3" in the relaxed state, this results in a jacket p2p of 23.2" to 23.5" and at 34.25" hip I have 19.3" to 20" jacket waistband. For the natural waist I usually take the same measurement as the jacket waistband. Body measurements naked.

THanks for that, now I know how to give measurements for a better fit.

Better?
View attachment 281962

Next 5 star project lol