Aero Cafe Racer question re: gussets

[sweetfights]

Does the Aero Cafe racer use elastics for the shoulder gussets or is that only for the full action back design??

 

[Monitor]

Does the Aero Cafe racer use elastics for the shoulder gussets or is that only for the full action back design??

They do. The elastic band is used both in jackets with the full action back and the shoulder gussets.

 

[ton312]

I think the full action back is more functional. The gussets look cool but are fairly shallow. In my experience the FAB (new acronym!) provides greater freedom of movement by far.

 

[Fanch]

My black Vicenza Sheene has shoulder gussets only whereas my russet Vicenza Sheene has a plain back. Honestly said, I am unable to discern any difference in freedom of movement between the two jackets. Also I carefully examined my black Vicenza Sheene for an elastic band and could find no evidence of its presence. Based on my experience I would have to agreee with Tony's assessment that a full action back is way more functional than mere shoulder gussets.

 

[Monitor]

In my observation, shoulder gussets must extend all the way to the side/underarm seam of the jacket in order to be truly functional. Like on the Beck 666, Fidelity or an early Schott CR. When you outstretch your arms, most stress/pulling happens at the very bottom of the shoulder gusset so making it reach under your arms insures that there's always enough material to be pulled out of the fold.

Nowadays, many jackets are made with shoulder gussets ending at the beginning of the side panel which is where the most stress on the seam occurs. Here's an example...

With shoulder gussets done this way, when you reach for something, you're actually pulling on the seams where the gusset ends (connects to the side panel), instead of on the folded material.
It still allows for some comfort but not nearly as much as you would've gotten if the gussets were extending under your arms, over to the side panels.

But on the Beck for example, since the gussets are actually going all the way under your arms, you have just as much reach as you would have with a FAB.

 

[sweetfights]

Great info gentlemen. Thank you.
I conclude that the Aero shoulder gussets are less functional and more aesthetic.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Ye, the shoulder gussets which only extend over the backpanel are fairly ineffective and more of a design element than a functional one, from my personal experience. The Vanson CHP has shoulder gussets that go all the way around down below the sleeve, as on the Beck above and these are way more effective. So I'd go for that or a FAB if I wanted more mobility.

 

[Woodyear]

In my observation, shoulder gussets must extend all the way to the side/underarm seam of the jacket in order to be truly functional. Like on the Beck 666, Fidelity or an early Schott CR. When you outstretch your arms, most stress/pulling happens at the very bottom of the shoulder gusset so making it reach under your arms insures that there's always enough material to be pulled out of the fold.

Nowadays, many jackets are made with shoulder gussets ending at the beginning of the side panel which is where the most stress on the seam occurs. Here's an example...

With shoulder gussets done this way, when you reach for something, you're actually pulling on the seams, instead of the folded material. Since there is none left.
It still allows for a greater range of movement but not as much as you would've gotten if the gussets were extending under your arms, over to the side panels.

But on the Beck for example, since the gusset is actually going all the way under your arms, you have just as much reach as you would have with a FAB.

I tend to agree with this, as I have a jacket like you've mentioned with shoulder gussets which go all the way to the side seam. It must be noted however that this configuration is impossible with any jacket that has a side panel. The gusset can only ever extend to the first seam it meets, as once the opposing panels are sewn into the side seam, they are now effectively one and any gusset extending beyond that point would be just as useless as having none at all. If you look at the picture and try to visualize a side seam and a gusset what I'm trying to say will hopefully make a tiny bit more sense.

Basically if you want gussets get a board racer, not a cafe racer as the board racer has no side panels.

 

[Monitor]

Yeah, exactly.

That's why jackets with the upper back panel or a yoke that cuts shoulder gussets in half (don't know how to explain but see the photo below) are equally effective as jackets with full shoulder gussets. It's only the bottom part that matters but only if it goes around, below the sleeve.
The upper part is actually pretty irrelevant. It does allow for a bit more comfort in the shoulders but as far as the reach & movement goes, it won't make much difference.

 

[Monitor]

I tend to agree with this, as I have a jacket like you've mentioned with shoulder gussets which go all the way to the side seam. It must be noted however that this configuration is impossible with any jacket that has a side panel. The gusset can only ever extend to the first seam it meets, as once the opposing panels are sewn into the side seam, they are now effectively one and any gusset extending beyond that point would be just as useless as having none at all. If you look at the picture and try to visualize a side seam and a gusset what I'm trying to say will hopefully make a tiny bit more sense.

Basically if you want gussets get a board racer, not a cafe racer as the board racer has no side panels.

Well... Yes and no. It's a bit more complicated to make, I'd imagine, but the proper shoulder gussets are actually perfectly doable on a jacket with side panels. Like on the brilliantly made Beau Breed CR...

 

[Fanch]

Monitor your technical grasp of how all this works is amazing!

 

[Monitor]

Monitor your technical grasp of how all this works is amazing!

Yes, I have truly not wasted my life.

 

[Monitor]

Oh, by the by! Aero can do true shoulder gussets! I've seen TB post a photo of a Board Racer, which doesn't have side panels, with full shoulder gussets. Beck style. I'd buy that for a dollar.

 

[Woodyear]

Well... Yes and no. It requires more a bit work, I'd imagine, but the proper shoulder gussets are actually perfectly doable on a jacket with side panels. Like on the brilliantly made Beau Breed CR...

Well played sir.

 

[Fanch]

Yes, I have truly not wasted my life.

On the other hand a case can be made we are all wasting our lives on the Lounge ...

 

[BobJ]

Yes, I have truly not wasted my life.

Your expertise and brilliance, in this obscure back alley of human knowledge, has had more effect on my life than Stephen Hawking's theories on black holes.

And I thoroughly enjoyed his "A Brief History of Time" - even wrote to him. But, unlike you, he never responded to me.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I'd buy that for a dollar.

This made me laugh, I love the random pop culture references we get here although I would have sworn when I first read it, it was from The Running Man....but of course it was from RoboCop!

 

[Monitor]

Your expertise and brilliance, in this obscure back alley of human knowledge, has had more effect on my life than Stephen Hawking's theories on black holes.

And I thoroughly enjoyed his "A Brief History of Time" - even wrote to him. But, unlike you, he never responded to me.

lol that's... Well, jackets are a bit more practical than black holes. Haha, I guess it's an interesting read. I've only glanced at his work as I'm constantly too stupid to understand that stuff even though it interests me. It takes me then months to figure it out and that's pissing me off. Just a week ago, I finally figured out why you can't go faster than light.

 

[BobJ]

Just a week ago, I finally figured out why you can't go faster than light

Yeah, your head gets too long and heavy!

 

[ton312]

Post up pics of that Cal CR monitor! That's how they should be done!