Advice request; First Thurston Bros custom Aero

[blobsterroll]

EDIT: When you say ‘modern street look/drape’, do you mean midweight like Vicenza rather than heavyweight like CXL? Again, you don’t need to choose. Jerky and Kelpie are midweight with thinner black topcoats like CXL.

I meant that more modern/street leather jackets are made with lamb skin and has a certain drape not like the thick fqhh and to me Japanese hides are thin enough (at least my double helix) and not as thick as the fqhh as everyone on this thread is mentioning.

Stiff will make the jacket look different like say, attached (guy with the hat) vs the guy in the helmet (found in HOG magazine)

 

[Aloysius]

Again, Japanese leathers range considerably. In any case, many of the thin skins you’re talking about come from Europe even when used by Japanese makers.

As for the two example photos, frankly they tell me more about jacket pattern than anything.

 

[blobsterroll]

Again, Japanese leathers range considerably. In any case, many of the thin skins you’re talking about come from Europe even when used by Japanese makers.

As for the two example photos, frankly they tell me more about jacket pattern than anything.

I see what you're saying now. I was trying to see the comparison between Japanese hides (shinki and nitta, which I like) in terms of aging to FQHH CXL and how they maybe similar. If the FQHH is 1.3mm it might be good to go tbh. Even if it will turn all brown, eventually.

 

[blobsterroll]

Overthinking Day 4: When you did your fit jacket did you try and layer it?

I have found that most jackets (granted all I ever had was off the rack) does have enough room in it already for a standard thickness hoodie without having to size up, although it will be snug fit. I want to be able to wear a thin hoodie underneath without it looking "off" or swimming in it when worn with just a t-shirt.

Thanks again, all.

 

[El Marro]

Overthinking Day 4: When you did your fit jacket did you try and layer it?

I have found that most jackets (granted all I ever had was off the rack) does have enough room in it already for a standard thickness hoodie without having to size up, although it will be snug fit. I want to be able to wear a thin hoodie underneath without it looking "off" or swimming in it when worn with just a t-shirt.

Thanks again, all.

I would absolutely recommend you try on the jacket with a hoodie if you want to wear it that way sometimes, as you said most jackets that fit well have enough room to allow for a thin hoodie anyway. I would caution against trying to build in room for layering though, as that will result in a jacket that is loose when worn with a t-shirt only.

 

[AerGuitar]

Overthinking Day 4: When you did your fit jacket did you try and layer it?

I have found that most jackets (granted all I ever had was off the rack) does have enough room in it already for a standard thickness hoodie without having to size up, although it will be snug fit. I want to be able to wear a thin hoodie underneath without it looking "off" or swimming in it when worn with just a t-shirt.

Thanks again, all.

Definitely try it on with the hoodie you have in mind, but also keep in mind that a HH jacket isn’t likely going to “stretch” to fit a layer later on, if the jacket is already too snug. This was my mistake when buying my first Aero. Carrie insisted that I needed to size up, but I was basing my limited experience on a naked cowhide jacket that I used for riding. It started snug, and after a season of riding, felt like it stretched in the chest and shoulders 2 sizes. I was sure that the Vic would do the same to some degree, but it didn’t stretch, no matter how hard I tried. Now, that I am sized right in the same style Vic jacket, I absolutely love it. Of course, I love my CXL and Badalassi too, but I have a soft spot for blackened Vicenza. Like a few others have said, I’ve only had one batch of blackened brown(out of 4)that did the “teacore” thing very quickly.

 

[blobsterroll]

So I just got the fit jacket in Blackened Brown Vicenza and.... I was not too hyped about it. I mean no offense to those who likes aero leathers but the jacket itself had a "Wilson's Leathers" vibe about it.

The hide was thin (like I dont think it can keep me warm) compared to the Nitta Tannery's, even the samples! The zippers and buttons were meh. The stitching was even more meh and downright not that good. The "high armholes" seems low to me. The only positive thing is it has generous shoulders. It does not scream quality, compared to the Nitta its dull. Even my Schott felt more bulletproof.

My quest for the perfect jacket continues, I dont know if I can get a full refund on this, otherwise I might go another direction as it couldve been just the Ridley model that didnt suit me. I dont think its worth the price and the wait. If they offer Shinki's or Nitta hides then I might just hold off for that.

I will pull down my Classified post for the Double Helix. I think its better from what I am looking for and my money will be better invested in getting it tailored. Just sharing to those considering getting a custom aero.

 

[Marc mndt]

So I just got the fit jacket in Blackened Brown Vicenza and.... I was not too hyped about it. I mean no offense to those who likes aero leathers but the jacket itself had a "Wilson's Leathers" vibe about it.

The hide was thin (like I dont think it can keep me warm) compared to the Nitta Tannery's, even the samples! The zippers and buttons were meh. The stitching was even more meh and downright not that good. The "high armholes" seems low to me. The only positive thing is it has generous shoulders. It does not scream quality, compared to the Nitta its dull. Even my Schott felt more bulletproof.

My quest for the perfect jacket continues, I dont know if I can get a full refund on this, otherwise I might go another direction as it couldve been just the Ridley model that didnt suit me. I dont think its worth the price and the wait. If they offer Shinki's or Nitta hides then I might just hold off for that.

I will pull down my Classified post for the Double Helix. I think its better from what I am looking for and my money will be better invested in getting it tailored. Just sharing to those considering getting a custom aero.

What did you expect? You bought a mid range jacket, not something high end. The Aero is half the price of Double Helix. Less than perfect is to be expected. £800 doesn't buy you a Shinki or Nitta leather jacket. Aero does stock Badalassi, if it's a premium leather you want.

 

[blobsterroll]

What did you expect? You bought a mid range jacket, not something high end. The Aero is half the price of Double Helix. Less than perfect is to be expected. £800 doesn't buy you a Shinki or Nitta leather jacket. Aero does stock Badalassi, if it's a premium leather you want.

I dont know if its just the exchange rate, but a Double Helix is $1200 if you buy from them directly. Thurston Bros Aero is like $1300. Just putting it out there.

Should have done my research. Did not know that Aero was "mid-range" I think that's Schott. So what will be the extreme high end, then?

 

[Marc mndt]

but a Double Helix is $1200 if you buy from them directly.

That's a great deal tbh. If you buy a DH from one of their European stockists you're paying a lot more.

Did not know that Aero was "mid-range" I think that's Schott. So what will be the extreme high end, then?

Freewheelers, Lost Worlds, Rainbow Country, Himel, Thedi, Field Leathers (if he gets the pattern right)

 

[blobsterroll]

That's a great deal tbh. If you buy a DH from one of their European stockists you're paying a lot more.

Freewheelers, Lost Worlds, Rainbow Country, Himel, Thedi, Field Leathers (if he gets the pattern right)

Ok I will be the guinea pig. Ever heard of this thing called "iadeleather", same instagram handle. So they make custom jackets, supposedly from Japan... dont know which tannery yet.

 

[Marc mndt]

iadeleather

The uninspired Lewis leathers copycat?

Their jackets are elongated. To serve the Japanese market I think.

 

[Aloysius]

So I just got the fit jacket in Blackened Brown Vicenza and.... I was not too hyped about it. I mean no offense to those who likes aero leathers but the jacket itself had a "Wilson's Leathers" vibe about it.

Lol what.

And we told you repeatedly Vicenza wasn't the hide you were looking for. You refused to listen.

The hide was thin (like I dont think it can keep me warm) compared to the Nitta Tannery's, even the samples! The zippers and buttons were meh. The stitching was even more meh and downright not that good. The "high armholes" seems low to me. The only positive thing is it has generous shoulders. It does not scream quality, compared to the Nitta its dull. Even my Schott felt more bulletproof.

It's not thin at all. It's a midweight hide, with some substance to it. That said, no hide except a fur is going to keep you warm at all, so if that's what you're expecting you're buying the wrong type of fabric. It's the lining that will determine warmth.

I frankly don't believe you about the stitching, considering Julie stitches every Ridley and she's as good as if not better than much more expensive makers I own, as stitching goes. If the stitching is faulty, post it, because that would be highly irregular and should get Carrie's attention too.

Low armholes and generous shoulders? Did you ask for two sizes up or something? I'm genuinely curious because my TTS Ridley felt a size small in both areas (and bear in mind I am used to and prefer high shoulders from bespoke suits), so I went up one size and it fits perfectly in the shoulders.

Yeah of course your Schott will feel more bulletproof; it is a substantially stiffer chrome-tanned and top-coated hide.

My quest for the perfect jacket continues, I dont know if I can get a full refund on this, otherwise I might go another direction as it couldve been just the Ridley model that didnt suit me. I dont think its worth the price and the wait. If they offer Shinki's or Nitta hides then I might just hold off for that.

From reading your posts (not just this one) I still have no idea what you were expecting. Fast-ageing looks-80-years-old-in-80-days Japanese leather with more robust construction? Maybe?

I will pull down my Classified post for the Double Helix. I think its better from what I am looking for and my money will be better invested in getting it tailored. Just sharing to those considering getting a custom aero.

I'm not an Aero fanboy and this server at many points has veered in that direction but I think you were looking for something very different from what you ordered.

 

[blobsterroll]

The uninspired Lewis leathers copycat?

Their jackets are elongated. To serve the Japanese market I think.

Thats the one. Its customizable, maybe thats the move! Yeah I was wondering that too. I could ask for them to NOT elongate it as much... (wonder why they do that?) leather seems nice.

BTW as much praise as we give Japanese leathers, it sucks that those people that tan those hides are actually discriminated against in Japanese society. Probably why Japan dont advertise those nice leathers overtly as other things. But thats another topic, I suppose. I learned that from researching leathers lol

 

[Aloysius]

The uninspired Lewis leathers copycat?

Their jackets are elongated. To serve the Japanese market I think.

View attachment 442489 View attachment 442490

Wow, this is genuinely awful. A mash-up of the usual Japanese LL knockoffs by Addict with the LL/Perfecto hybrid that SLP puts out.

 

[Aloysius]

Thats the one. Its customizable, maybe thats the move! Yeah I was wondering that too. I could ask for them to NOT elongate it as much... (wonder why they do that?) leather seems nice.

BTW as much praise as we give Japanese leathers, it sucks that those people that tan those hides are actually discriminated against in Japanese society. Probably why Japan dont advertise those nice leathers overtly as other things. But thats another topic, I suppose. I learned that from researching leathers lol

What exactly do you like about these jackets/this company, other than the fact that they're based in Japan? If you give us specifics, we can work with that.

If you want an objectively superior version of what we're looking at here, it's a Lewis Leathers Lightning (either version). Their veg-tanned cowhide is the type of hide you seem to want, too.

 

[blobsterroll]

Lol what.

And we told you repeatedly Vicenza wasn't the hide you were looking for. You refused to listen.

Dude, I dont choose the leather jacket that they send for fitting.

It's not thin at all. It's a midweight hide, with some substance to it. That said, no hide except a fur is going to keep you warm at all, so if that's what you're expecting you're buying the wrong type of fabric. It's the lining that will determine warmth.

Some hides are more substantial than others, even the "thicc FQHH" seems thin.

I frankly don't believe you about the stitching, considering Julie stitches every Ridley and she's as good as if not better than much more expensive makers I own, as stitching goes. If the stitching is faulty, post it, because that would be highly irregular and should get Carrie's attention too.

I didnt say it was faulty, it was nothing to write home about. You've seen what clean stitching looks like. I must admit it could be that this jacket is seasoned for being tried on and off.

Low armholes and generous shoulders? Did you ask for two sizes up or something? I'm genuinely curious because my TTS Ridley felt a size small in both areas (and bear in mind I am used to and prefer high shoulders from bespoke suits), so I went up one size and it fits perfectly in the shoulders.

See attached, A LOOOT of material at the belly area. This is a Size 40. EDIT: Also generous shoulders as far as room for delts. Both the Schott and the DH are restrictive on the delts.

Yeah of course your Schott will feel more bulletproof; it is a substantially stiffer chrome-tanned and top-coated hide.

Ok.

From reading your posts (not just this one) I still have no idea what you were expecting. Fast-ageing looks-80-years-old-in-80-days Japanese leather with more robust construction? Maybe?

I'm not an Aero fanboy and this server at many points has veered in that direction but I think you were looking for something very different from what you ordered.

Def more robust construction. I am really expecting a jacket that will justify a $1,300 price tag and 16 week wait.

 

[blobsterroll]

What exactly do you like about these jackets/this company, other than the fact that they're based in Japan? If you give us specifics, we can work with that.

Ok for one, its custom fitted ("fit is king") and I can direct what I want on it, epaulets, hardware, hardware color etc., and from what I have seen regarding Japanese horsehide it seems to be what I am looking for as far as feel and aging. (will it really look 80 years old in 80 days though? that might be not cool)

If you want an objectively superior version of what we're looking at here, it's a Lewis Leathers Lightning (either version). Their veg-tanned cowhide is the type of hide you seem to want, too.

Ok I will look into that too.

Hope I am not offending anyone, these are just my opinion/experience on this topic.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Why not just get a Lewis Leather's jacket directly? They make great products, you can customize them, and thier prices are not that bad overall.

 

[Aloysius]

Some hides are more substantial than others, even the "thicc FQHH" seems thin.

What are you basing this on? CXL is about the thickest wearable hide. You will certainly find nothing as thick from a Japanese tannery. If you'd like something even more substantial than CXL, I would think your only option is Lost Worlds, which is genuinely fantastic though their leather is not fast-ageing or brown core.

See attached, A LOOOT of material at the belly area. This is a Size 40.

It's a slim-straight jacket, which is why it goes straight down and can be cinched by the belt. I was thinking on this earlier, actually; you might be pleased with a more sharply v-shaped jacket that is small at the waist, like the 50s cuts.

The slim-straight jackets (whether this or the Board Racer, which is on the same pattern) intentionally don't really taper at all. For instance, a size 40 Perfecto and size 42 Ridley have basically the same chest and waist measurements– however, the Perfecto has a chest that sharply tapers down, whereas the Ridley immediately tapers under the armpit then is straight through the trunk. The two end up looking completely different on the same person.

I think the Indian Ranger that Aero offers is one of the best versions of that offered by any maker. If you get that with Jerky or Kelpie horsehide, you'd have a look like you want, I think. Bear in mind that its taper is extremely sharp.

Ok for one, its custom fitted ("fit is king") and I can direct what I want from it, and from what I have seen regarding Japanese horsehide it seems to be what I am looking for as far as feel and aging. (will it really look 80 years old in 80 days though? that might be not cool)

Custom fit can be terrible if the pattern is bad and/or the company doesn't know how to fit someone (which, honestly, most don't.) For every Thedi and Johnson jacket (both of which are amazing), there's a an expensive disaster from a company with a million options but no sense of patterning.

If you like this look, just get a Lewis. They will let you customize anyway, and the veg cow is exactly the leather look you seem to be after.

Many of them are designed to fast-age like that, yes.