Advice request; First Thurston Bros custom Aero

[El Marro]

Also fourteen!?! I feel bad for having 1 and 1 on the way! (the Aero I am trying to build)

Actually it’s at least 15, I remembered one that I had forgotten after writing that post. And when you get up to these numbers you no longer feel bad about how many jackets you have, you feel bad about not having enough space to store them nor time to wear all of them.

 

[blobsterroll]

Schott PER70

Schotts will turn blue/grey.

Also that is HH, Himeji, I believe

 

[blobsterroll]

I think black CXL is a good choice. Perhaps the tumbled variant for superior comfort while maintaining serious heft. Black CXL will fade to brown slowly. If I were to order another CXL jacket, despite the myriad of attractive colors offered, I would absolutely go with black.

See I have read in some threads in this forum that the CXL wears out faster.

 

[ton312]

See I have read in some threads in this forum that the CXL wears out faster.

I don’t think so. My black CXL jackets have stayed black with only the zipper piping showing any real browns from use. But a dull brown undertone can most definitely be seen. It’s definitely a long haul. Just picked up a blk/brown vic Herc and it feels remarkably similar. A long haul (which is good imo).

 

[blobsterroll]

I don’t think so. My black CXL jackets have stayed black with only the zipper piping showing any real browns from use. But a dull brown undertone can most definitely be seen. It’s definitely a long haul. Just picked up a blk/brown vic Herc and it feels remarkably similar. A long haul (which is good imo).

Ok cool, thank you. I am just unsure on how blackened brown looks. In some pics it looks black (which I like) while sometimes it just looks very dark brown. I think Ms. Carrie will send me a sample of all the hides and lining fabrics soon.

 

[ton312]

Ok cool, thank you. I am just unsure on how blackened brown looks. In some pics it looks black (which I like) while sometimes it just looks very dark brown. I think Ms. Carrie will send me a sample of all the hides and lining fabrics soon.

I’ve had three blk/brown vic jackets pass through. They all looked completely black to me. The top coat on either hide will be very slow to fade, which I think is a good thing. Fast fade “teacore” always looks a bit fake/processed to me (though not always). The CXL overdye that JL has is a fast fade, but it’s also brown (coffee bean) and not black. Anyway, good luck with the pursuit. I don’t think you can go wrong but from your posts I think straight up black CXL is what you’ll be most pleased with.

 

[Aloysius]

Schotts will turn blue/grey.

Also that is HH, Himeji, I believe

I said Schott PER70, which is a model made from a pigment finished brown core leather exactly like you want. It’s a really beautiful and substantial hide.

The photo you posted seems to be one of the distressed FCLs.

Ok cool, thank you. I am just unsure on how blackened brown looks. In some pics it looks black (which I like) while sometimes it just looks very dark brown. I think Ms. Carrie will send me a sample of all the hides and lining fabrics soon.

Blackened Brown Vicenza just looks black. However it is not going to chip off and age as you want it to. Rather, the top protective layer is extremely solid and helps keep the water off even though it’s veg tanned.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Here's my thoughts having handled Ridley, Aero CXL and blackened brown vic.

Ridley, amazing jacket. I think Aero absolutely nailed this pattern. Super comfy, doesn't have the usual neck lines, etc.

I've owned the Ridley in both natural CXL and blackened vic. The CXL was beast. It was too much for me. Jacket was comfortable but heavy, and it had to be a little bit bigger to accommodate the usual CXL rigidness when it's not fully warmed up. I've also owned/own CXL Aero racer and Sheene. Bottom line, if you go with CXL you either need to size up or you need the shoulder gussets. There's pros and cons to gussets. Personally, I don't ride so I don't need the extra reach and all that. I find the extra stuff in the back, gussets, action back, whatever detract from the look. But that's a personal preference, there's no right or wrong. Color evolution, "teacore", etc. is unreal on all the CXLs I've had.

My black vic Ridley is effortless to wear. No gussets, feels like I'm wearing a windbreaker. Drapes the body so nice. This thing has been worn super hard and I'm barely seeing some brown pop on certain contact points. I doubt it'll get the widespread teacore on the sleeve creases, etc. without some extra manipulation. Mr Proper's batch is completely different than mine. His has a warm glow to it. Mine is deep deep black. Except for a few chips here and there, I'd be none the wiser that there was brown underneath.

I think the jerky and tumbled cxl could be a good compromise and middle ground. I don't think Aero offers, but the other one if you want to still be in CXL land is Lux. That is very thin coat and pops instantly, but it's a more wide range teacore, not just crease specific. That's going to be your dilemma. If you want "spot" teacore in just high friction points, then you need a thicker top coat and that means a slower process to get there. If it's a thinner top coat, then the teacore is going to be all over and essentially your black jacket is going to turn brown over time.

If you want my advice, go with the Vic (no gussets, no epaulettes) and just accept it's going to take a while to get where you want it. It's a nice leather for that "street" look, sometimes dressing up that you mentioned. Badalassi could be interesting too, but I don't think they have a teacore.

 

[MrProper]

Blackened Brown Vicenza just looks black.

Mine is black with brown undertones. More like strong black coffee. In low light, it's just black.

 

[blobsterroll]

Here's my thoughts having handled Ridley, Aero CXL and blackened brown vic.

Ridley, amazing jacket. I think Aero absolutely nailed this pattern. Super comfy, doesn't have the usual neck lines, etc.

I've owned the Ridley in both natural CXL and blackened vic. The CXL was beast. It was too much for me. Jacket was comfortable but heavy, and it had to be a little bit bigger to accommodate the usual CXL rigidness when it's not fully warmed up. I've also owned/own CXL Aero racer and Sheene. Bottom line, if you go with CXL you either need to size up or you need the shoulder gussets. There's pros and cons to gussets. Personally, I don't ride so I don't need the extra reach and all that. I find the extra stuff in the back, gussets, action back, whatever detract from the look. But that's a personal preference, there's no right or wrong. Color evolution, "teacore", etc. is unreal on all the CXLs I've had.

My black vic Ridley is effortless to wear. No gussets, feels like I'm wearing a windbreaker. Drapes the body so nice. This thing has been worn super hard and I'm barely seeing some brown pop on certain contact points. I doubt it'll get the widespread teacore on the sleeve creases, etc. without some extra manipulation. Mr Proper's batch is completely different than mine. His has a warm glow to it. Mine is deep deep black. Except for a few chips here and there, I'd be none the wiser that there was brown underneath.

I think the jerky and tumbled cxl could be a good compromise and middle ground. I don't think Aero offers, but the other one if you want to still be in CXL land is Lux. That is very thin coat and pops instantly, but it's a more wide range teacore, not just crease specific. That's going to be your dilemma. If you want "spot" teacore in just high friction points, then you need a thicker top coat and that means a slower process to get there. If it's a thinner top coat, then the teacore is going to be all over and essentially your black jacket is going to turn brown over time.

If you want my advice, go with the Vic (no gussets, no epaulettes) and just accept it's going to take a while to get where you want it. It's a nice leather for that "street" look, sometimes dressing up that you mentioned. Badalassi could be interesting too, but I don't think they have a teacore.

Alright cool, it appears I am going with the Blackened Brown Vicenza. It wouldnt hurt that it will be black for a while and will be brown WAAAAY later.

And thanks everyone as well... Now on to the length.

With a street look, I believe the length needs to be a certain way. I am thinking 25 inches up front and 24 inches on the back... Is that possible with Thurston Bros? Or is it sized straight through?

 

[MrProper]

Alright cool, it appears I am going with the Blackened Brown Vicenza. It wouldnt hurt that it will be black for a while and will be brown WAAAAY later.

And thanks everyone as well... Now on to the length.

With a street look, I believe the length needs to be a certain way. I am thinking 25 inches up front and 24 inches on the back... Is that possible with Thurston Bros? Or is it sized straight through?

Mine has a front drop of about 1 inch. With less length, it will be less. As far as I know, you can't customize it.

 

[blobsterroll]

Overthinking Day 3; any suggestions on the lining? I thought the Schot 618HH's quilted Nylon to be adequate for German winters. Maybe layer with a hoodie. But it was not special or something to write home about. I am also considering that the Schott did have a thick/heavy hide so that may have made it warm.

Any of the Aero lining that will be close or just a touch less warm? Mainly worried about layering issues if the lining is too much, also the drape.

 

[handymike]

Aero has a beautiful irridescent burgundy/green quited lining.

 

[AeroFan_07]

So I'm late to this party.

However the conversation on leathers is ongoing and becomes sort of like the "Ford Mustang Verses Chevy Camaro" comparison. (using a USA example here) It is a very personal thing that simply comes down to your preferances.

I personally like a jacket to be a bit of a workout especially at first so I can break it in the way I would like it to be.
While not offered on Indian Ranger's anymore, I ordered through Carrie a CXL FQHH IR about 2 years back, and it's devleoped quite nicely now. It is "thinner" CXL FQHH than some, but has tons of teacore & grain that have developed.

Searching back to see it's evolution, I realize now I need to update some photos. There are several in the What Jacket are You Wearing Today thread.

You can get a feel for it here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/h-d-cycle-king-jacket-vs-aero-indian-ranger.104404/

I have owned a couple Vicenza jackets too by Aero, one had excellent grain and some teacore effect, one was super-smooth, both were pretty easy to wear but I did not care as much for them overall. They just didn't have much character or smell and they never seemed to "mold" to you specifically. They also cost more to order out of Aero or through Carrie than the FQHH.

Just to complicate matters, I like the CX Steerhide the best of all thier leathers that I have tried. It softens up noticabley as it warms up on you. The graining and break-in makes it an amazing leather to just simply wear. It is often a little thicker than the Horse hide and has a different, (more pleasent) odor to it in my mind. I have had Steerhide on three Aero's and miss them all (I only have the Indian Ranger left these days).

Linings - I like the Sateen for slip-on/slip-off comfort, however for all around durability, Cotton Drill is a great choice.

 

[handymike]

I advise against cotton drill in the sleeves of a slim fitting Aero jacket. It gave me a rash in 2 separate jackets. Sateen is a winner IMO.

 

[blobsterroll]

Team, the way you all described how the Blackened Brown Vic patinas, the attached is what I am picturing. Close?

 

[handymike]

Aero's hides won't look like Fine Creek's, but the CXL will get close- eventually
Premier Highwayman:

https://imgur.com/5Q8itIA

Seven:

https://imgur.com/THU69rh

This 2016 batch was great for that.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Team, the way you all described how the Blackened Brown Vic patinas, the attached is what I am picturing. Close?

nope. That's CXL type fading.

Here's my blackened brown vic. I'm the 4th owner. has been worn hard. Maybe like in 2-3 years, you'll see some brown peaking on the arm creases.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb3KGomv3aQ/

here's my brown CXL aero, less than 2 years wear, maybe 100 wears all in, mostly indoors. It's brown but you'll get the idea.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgcdEg-Jk2x/

 

[blobsterroll]

Ah so it appears that I'm torn between a modern street look/drape vs "good" aging. Japanese hides, based on the two I've seen seem to be Lighter/thinner but has that aging

Let's see if the blackened Vic will be good. My fit jacket will be made of that. My fear is that it will be very pebble-y and will feel like lamb or a couch but that does not seem so.

 

[Aloysius]

With a street look, I believe the length needs to be a certain way. I am thinking 25 inches up front and 24 inches on the back... Is that possible with Thurston Bros? Or is it sized straight through?

Definitely. Mine is straight 26 inches all around and I hate that aspect of the jacket. I would actually get it modified
My favorite cross-zip is 24 inches in the back, 25.5 inches in the front.

Team, the way you all described how the Blackened Brown Vic patinas, the attached is what I am picturing. Close?

Absolutely not. And I have never seen a real life Fine Creek as distressed as their marketing photos, which is why those photos have become something of a running joke here.

The closest you will get to something like this is the ultra fast-ageing leather Freewheelers uses on some models.

Ah so it appears that I'm torn between a modern street look/drape vs "good" aging. Japanese hides, based on the two I've seen seem to be Lighter/thinner but has that aging

Let's see if the blackened Vic will be good. My fit jacket will be made of that. My fear is that it will be very pebble-y and will feel like lamb or a couch but that does not seem so.

This is inaccurate. Japanese hides come in all types, many of which aren’t pigment finished at all. The FCL marketing photos don’t reflect the out of the box properties of any leather.

Vicenza is very nice, it’s not at all pebbly, and it’s quite substantial. However, with the exception of MrProper’s jacket, I have never seen a batch of it that has a chocolate brown tone. Even so, it’s not going to strip down much at all, let alone look like a brown jacket all over the way the FCL ads do. The Vicenza topcoat is very solid, and not made for ageing.

I would suggest you consider the Jerky and Kelpie hides, which are the closest thing in the catalogue to what you are after.

EDIT: When you say ‘modern street look/drape’, do you mean midweight like Vicenza rather than heavyweight like CXL? Again, you don’t need to choose. Jerky and Kelpie are midweight with thinner black topcoats like CXL.