Advice needed on new Aero Cafe Racer jacket

[Rich22]

Thus far both of my Vicenza Sheenes have aged evenly with no dark patches or anything like that. I ordered both Sheenes "without kidney panels" and that's all I can tell you. Order the seal Vicenza and never look back. Tell Holly Fanch said hello.

That's good The 'internal' kidney panel is the rectangle of leather on the inside, at the bottom of the lining. I'll borrow the pic that @Bullitt just posted in his thread to show you what I'm on about. Unless you specify no external and internal kidney panels, they'll leave the one inside, typically.

 

[Rich22]

That is a pretty large internal pocket I must say... and i like it.

 

[Fanch]

That's good The 'internal' kidney panel is the rectangle of leather on the inside, at the bottom of the lining. I'll borrow the pic that @Bullitt just posted in his thread to show you what I'm on about. Unless you specify no external and internal kidney panels, they'll leave the one inside, typically.

Both of my Sheenes have the inside leather panels.

 

[Rich22]

Both of my Sheenes have the inside leather panels.

It creates quite a distinct uncreased area on the reverse of where they are. I think I like the look, gives the backs of jackets with an internal kidney panel a unique appearance.

 

[Fanch]

It creates quite a distinct uncreased area on the reverse of where they are. I think I like the look, gives the backs of jackets with an internal kidney panel a unique appearance.

The inside leather panel also helps protect the lining. Some opt for a corduroy strip at the bottom of the lining which IMO is unnecessary with cotton drill body shell lining. In any case I like the overall effect of the inside leather lining but see no reason for full kidney panel unless the jacket is used for riding.

 

[Rich22]

I think I've narrowed down the specs for the jacket now, but still a few things I might tweak.

• Aero Cafe Racer jacket, in size 46", which tapers to waist of a 44" jacket. 27.5" back, 25.5" sleeves.
• High top yoke, curved without V.
• No shoulder gussets.
• No external kidney panel, retain internal panel
• Lightweight tartan lining in body
• Sateen lining in sleeves
• 4 pocket design, with hand warmers lowered a couple of inches. Zips on all 4. Moleskin lined.
• Seal Vicenza HH leather
• Lighter coloured stitching for contrast, exact shade tbc.
• Sleeve zips Board Racer style on front
• Main zipper male/female sides reversed to European norm. Should fasten close to hem to avoid Board Racer style flaring/fishtail.
• Brass hardware. Diamond pulls on pockets.
• Single vertical internal pocket, no fastening.
• Corduroy lined hem and cuffs, if they agree to this. (fingers crossed. Call me odd but I like cord, think it would help around the hem, and make the wrists more comfortable and protect the sateen from watch tearing.)

I didn't find the zips to be scratchy, so I won't remove those from the hand warmers. The hand warmers on the jacket were too high to be of use to me, so they'll lower a bit.

The cotton drill lining I found a bit utilitarian, and the tartan looks better, and I like wool as liner. The sateen for the sleeves is hard waring but smoother.

I'm thinking Seal Vicenza, but will wait to see all the samples before 100% confirming.

I think I'll stick with the three panel sleeves, as opposed to two panel construction. It's a close call, though.

I'd like a main zipper to be of a slightly larger gauge. It's smaller than my existing jackets, with quite a puny male pin and teeth that are about 20% smaller. I'll discuss this with Aero, see if they have any alternatives. I don't want major change, though.

The (fragile) diamond pulls look most attractive to me, and so does the brass colour. It's a bit bright/shiny, while the antique seem overly dull. I'd choose bright over dull. Ideally I'd like piping/welts around the sleeve zippers to somewhat disguise the brightness of the brass, as some other manufactures do, but I'll also have to discuss this with them.

Holly is on the case for Aero, and I'm they'll do a great job

 

[Rich22]

I'll ask for piping like this around the sleeve zip, I think it looks far better. Picture was borrowed from @SpeedRcrX

Here's the standard Board Racer style from zipper Aero do:

Edit: I should say I actually really rather like the look of the above pic, the Dark Seal and (I assume) vintage brass zipper, work very very well... If Aero don't desire to do the piping this is the look I'll go for

 

[Edward]

All sounds good. FWIW re zips.... I've had chorme, shiny brass, and antique brass from Aero on different jackets. I'm still pleased with all, though these days I swould definitely choose the shiny brass over the antiqued brass, the former just seeming more 'natural', somehow, plus it will age in a 'real' way - on overly-close inspection, there's something slightly artificial looking about the antiqued one. Shiny brass looks great with any colour leather, while chrome looks superb with black bike jackets. These dyas, I'm keen on the shiny brass in almost any Aero leather!

 

[Fanch]

• Corduroy lined hem and cuffs, if they agree to this. (fingers crossed. Call me odd but I like cord, think it would help around the hem, and make the wrists more comfortable and protect the sateen from watch tearing.

I doubt that lining the sleeve cuffs with corduroy would be a good idea even if Aero were to agree to do so which I doubt they will as all of that material would doubtless bunch up underneath the zipper, particularly when zipped. Ask Holly whether cotton drill is more durable than sateen; if so, I would seriously consider lining the sleeves with cotton drill. Probably not a bad idea to line the bottom hem with corduroy if you go with a lightweight wool tartan lining. I realize I am in the minority with a preference for cotton drill lining throughout but will say the olive cotton drill is rich in color, luxurious and durable. As I recall one of the moderators @Feraud said "it would be boring if we all liked the same things."

 

[ton312]

I doubt that lining the sleeve cuffs would be a good idea even if Aero were to agree to do so which I doubt they will. Ask Holly whether cotton drill is more durable than sateen; if so, I would seriously consider lining the sleeves with cotton drill. Probably not a bad idea to line the bottom hem with corduroy if you go with a lightweight wool tartan lining. I realize I am in the minority with a preference for cotton drill lining throughout but will say the olive cotton drill is rich in color, luxurious and durable. As I recall one of the moderators @Feraud said "things would be boring if we all liked the same things."

I'm with you Fanch. The cotton Drill is a great, superbly strong liner. My latest order is the first to have something else in the body but I'm keeping it in the sleeves. It's tough as nails.

 

[ton312]

I'll ask for piping like this around the sleeve zip, I think it looks far better. Picture was borrowed from @SpeedRcrX
View attachment 86296

Here's the standard Board Racer style from zipper Aero do:

Edit: I should say I actually really rather like the look of the above pic, the Dark Seal and (I assume) vintage brass zipper, work very very well... If Aero don't desire to do the piping this is the look I'll go for

That top of sleeve zipper treatment on speed's jacket is so well done it should be framed and hung in a museum. its mouth watering-ly perfect. Sounds like you've got a really nice jacket cooked up!

 

[SpeedRcrX]

That top of sleeve zipper treatment on speed's jacket is so well done it should be framed and hung in a museum. its mouth watering-ly perfect. Sounds like you've got a really nice jacket cooked up!

Yup, I couldn't be happier with this jacket, you see quality even in the smallest details. For me it's what set it appart from other brands.

 

[Monitor]

I don't think Aero will do the sleeve zipper piping. I've asked for this already and they declined. . .

 

[Rich22]

I don't think Aero will do the sleeve zipper piping. I've asked for this already and they declined. . .

That's a shame to hear. Was there a reason? It's an original feature of period jackets they are reproducing after all.

 

[Rich22]

I doubt that lining the sleeve cuffs with corduroy would be a good idea even if Aero were to agree to do so which I doubt they will as all of that material would doubtless bunch up underneath the zipper, particularly when zipped. Ask Holly whether cotton drill is more durable than sateen; if so, I would seriously consider lining the sleeves with cotton drill. Probably not a bad idea to line the bottom hem with corduroy if you go with a lightweight wool tartan lining. I realize I am in the minority with a preference for cotton drill lining throughout but will say the olive cotton drill is rich in color, luxurious and durable. As I recall one of the moderators @Feraud said "it would be boring if we all liked the same things."

Aero said sateen is still very durable, and not to worry that it won't last well. Whether it's every bit as durable as drill I don't know, but apparently it's a great choice for anything but the heaviest leathers. The corduroy strip would only be 2 inches or so, so shouldn't cause bunching problems- I've seen it on another cafe racer jacket that I wish I could find a picture of now.

 

[Monitor]

That's a shame to hear. Was there a reason? It's an original feature of period jackets they are reproducing after all.

No clue. Some things they won't do. Which is okay, I guess. Not many makers used to do this, though. Those that did dropped it very quickly.

 

[Rich22]

The photo below is of an original Buco J-100, and it's how I'd like to see the back of my jacket look:

Clean, minimal. The advantage the aero jacket will have will be the taper towards the bottom, thanks to the side panels. The extra panel to the sleeves seems stylistic and I can take it or leave it. I like here that the shoulder seam stays just about on top of the shoulder rather than sloping off the edge, as can happen.

 

[Rich22]

No clue. Some things they won't do. Which is okay, I guess. Not many makers used to do this, though. Those that did dropped it very quickly.

Agreed, always up to them. There's usually a reason for everything, though, and I'm ever curious.

A few vintage Buco's sported it, like the one you linked to a few pages back. Here's another nice example:

 

[Rich22]

Here's quite a cool jacket, an 'Aero Buco Cafe Racer': https://www.thurston-bros.com/products/aero-cafe-racer-size-36-navy-blue-vicenza-horsehide

That's a heck of a taper. I approve. I'd curve the yoke a bit though, don't like them dead straight.

It says it is nickel hardware, but unless lighting is playing tricks, that looks a tad too gold. I wonder if it'd look daft using antiqued zips on the cuffs and regular brass elsewhere? The zipper in post #147 is antique finished, right?

 

[ton312]

Here's quite a cool jacket, an 'Aero Buco Cafe Racer': https://www.thurston-bros.com/products/aero-cafe-racer-size-36-navy-blue-vicenza-horsehide

View attachment 86332
That's a heck of a taper. I approve. I'd curve the yoke a bit though, don't like them dead straight.

View attachment 86333
It says it is nickel hardware, but unless lighting is playing tricks, that looks a tad too gold. I wonder if it'd look daft using antiqued zips on the cuffs and regular brass elsewhere? The zipper in post #147 is antique finished, right?

I had a mixture of regular shiny and antique brass on my bootlegger 1.0. Main zip and handwarmers/ sleeves were shiny, chest pocket was antique. I liked it. My j 106 has mixed nickel and brass and I like that too.