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Advice needed on new Aero Cafe Racer jacket

Edgar Laurel

One of the Regulars
Messages
289
Location
Porto, Portugal
For sure. You are headed down the right track, with your notes and observations on the fit. As Fanch pointed out, if you are after immediate drape, the lighter horse or goat is the better way to go. If you love the CXL (and boy do I) then drape won't happen quickly and you won't get a whole Hell of a lot for a long, long time. For me that's part of the appeal. I like that CXL holds its shape despite being worn, twisted and bent. I think the hide lends itself to certain patterns and not as much to others. I had this CXL horse CR, sz 42" and it was an absolute straight jacket. It looked great (if I didn't move) the forearms were at max capacity.
View attachment 85915
I couldn't zip this jacket past my sternum. Taking it off took a partnerless square dance. But it looked good standing dead still. TBH I think the CR pattern is best suited to lighter, more flexible hides. It's a tight fit design and heavy leather and tight fits are two great tastes that taste terrible together. My favorites have always been vintage, "thinnish", flexible hides for a CR. Not to say it can't be done in CXL, but it certainly takes that extra little bit of detail in the numbers, here, there and everywhere.
Well It looks right from here. I'm surprised you could zip it halfway.
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
Well It looks right from here. I'm surprised you could zip it halfway.
Yeah. I know man. It photo'd well. Photos don't always tell the truth though. I really wanted that one to work but I hated it. Pissed me off everytime I put it on. It's why I think you really need to know the whole story with CXL. All the #'s count. With a lighter, more flexible hide...it would've been a keeper.
 

Edgar Laurel

One of the Regulars
Messages
289
Location
Porto, Portugal
Rich, go for it a 1/2 size bigger, it will make for a much versatile jacket that you can use for milder or colder weather. Also It would benefit with an extra 1' in length. You should work this around and if you sent the pictures to Holly I'm sure they will reach similar conclusions. But with this you're getting close to the perfect fit. I think you won't go wrong.
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
What would you pick as your absolute favourite? I'm hoping I don't have to chop and change!!
Well. Absolute fav:
IMG_5936.JPG

Aero J106. 12 lb monster jacket. But that might change in November/December. Just have to see how the next Aero turns out. I will say I've injected a bunch of experience into the next one. Just the stuff I've learned I like the most. We'll see. At any rate. This j 106 goes to the grave on my back!
 

Edgar Laurel

One of the Regulars
Messages
289
Location
Porto, Portugal
Yeah. I know man. It photo'd well. Photos don't always tell the truth though. I really wanted that one to work but I hated it. Pissed me off everytime I put it on. It's why I think you really need to know the whole story with CXL. All the #'s count. With a lighter, more flexible hide...it would've been a keeper.

It's a rule for all materials and textiles that are denser or thicker. Compensate with a few inches plus. The jacket looks amazing but you could see from that picture that it was tight. CR's have to be trim It's the only way they look good. But not restrictive. Nor too short. Jackets that fall too short annoy me....a lot. I have a blue biker jacket in nice American Bison leather that a friend of mine from Boston found when I took some time to pay her a visit and I bought it. Size 38 all the right stuff....but at 24' it is kind of short. I kept it because it was a used one of a kind jacket. But I wished it was a 40' just for the extra length...even if it had a bit more room. And yeah..a little bit more room is way better than a little less.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I will say the fit of my two Sheenes resulted from the collaborative efforts of a friend who allowed me to use his Sheene as a fit jacket and then fine tuning with the able assistance from the brother/sister combo, Holly and Denny Calder. Denny is the one who recommended adding an additional 1.5" to the circumference of the waist of this CR pattern.

2015-06-20 15.30.48 HDR.jpg 2015-06-20 15.29.20.jpg

Below is the final result:

2015-08-18 14.51.12.jpg 2015-08-18 14.51.23.jpg

As you can see the second Sheene doesn't have shoulder gussets.
 

Edgar Laurel

One of the Regulars
Messages
289
Location
Porto, Portugal
Well. Absolute fav: View attachment 85927
Aero J106. 12 lb monster jacket. But that might change in November/December. Just have to see how the next Aero turns out. I will say I've injected a bunch of experience into the next one. Just the stuff I've learned I like the most. We'll see. At any rate. This j 106 goes to the grave on my back!

Oh my....my eyes are rolling...with joy!
 

Woodyear

Familiar Face
Messages
94
I will say the fit of my two Sheenes resulted from the collaborative efforts of a friend who allowed me to use his Sheene as a fit jacket and then fine tuning with the able assistance from the brother/sister combo, Holly and Denny Calder. Denny is the one who recommended adding an additional 1.5" to the circumference of the waist of this CR pattern.

View attachment 85928 View attachment 85929

Below is the final result:

View attachment 85930 View attachment 85931

As you can see the second Sheene doesn't have shoulder gussets.


Fanch what leather is that first fit jacket there made of? Looks like well broken Fqhh but that drape seems pretty implausible.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
Fanch what leather is that first fit jacket there made of? Looks like well broken Fqhh but that drape seems pretty implausible.
Both jackets are russet Vicenza but the top one was already broken in with nice grain and patina whereas the second one was brand new when the picture was taken.
 

Rich22

Practically Family
Messages
595
Location
G.B.
Looks like you kept the internal kidney panel... how are you liking the way it looks on the outside, with the reduced creasing? I think I'll keep the clean back like yours, but maintain the internal kidney panel. I MUCH prefer the look of the back of your jacket to the look of my fit jacket. Much less fussy
 

Rich22

Practically Family
Messages
595
Location
G.B.
Thanks but to my eye seal Vicenza has the richest color of all of the Vicenzas followed by black. I love the way Vicenza looks, feels and drapes.
How are you finding it ages, with wear? Does it develop darker patches as some vegetable tanned leathers do? As opposed to the lighter patches the CXL seems to get. Oh, and I love the colour of the seal Vicenza too
 

Rich22

Practically Family
Messages
595
Location
G.B.
I got a reply from Holly this evening, following the pics I emailed to her. She thought that the fit looked good, but if I found it restrictive in arms and chest then perhaps moving to a 46" that tapers down to the opening of a 44" might be in order. Especially if I wanted to layer up what so ever, and I'm keen to be able to wear a thin jumper/sweater under the jacket, or just a shirt over a t shirt. Adding extra length no problem. She recommended the mid-weight leathers like the Vicenza to me, if the weight of the steerhide put me off. Lowering the hand warmers a tad along with lengthening is no problem. However they don't do leather lined cuffs for some reason. Boo. Could have made them impractically stiff I guess?
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
How are you finding it ages, with wear? Does it develop darker patches as some vegetable tanned leathers do? As opposed to the lighter patches the CXL seems to get. Oh, and I love the colour of the seal Vicenza too
Thus far both of my Vicenza Sheenes have aged evenly with no dark patches or anything like that. I ordered both Sheenes "without kidney panels" and that's all I can tell you. Order the seal Vicenza and never look back. Tell Holly Fanch said hello. :)
 

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