Advice needed for first top-tier G-1 leather jacket purchase

[npthaiduong]

Hello gentlemen,

I was doing some research on G-1 leather jackets and came across this forum. I’ve read through many threads and found the vast knowledge of G-1 (and A-2) leather jackets from our members to be tremendously insightful. I am a naval HR officer in the Navy Reserve, so I won’t be issued a standard flight leather jacket, as I am not part of the naval aviation community. However, I adore the G-1 and A-2 leather jackets and wear them regularly for my civilian job. I already own an A-2 jacket from Cockpit USA, and now I’m looking for a warmer jacket for the winter in Minnesota. The G-1 seems like the ideal choice.

I’ve narrowed my options down to three: Eastman, Good Wear, and Rainbow Country.

- Good Wear is made in the USA and is considered the top option by many. However, the wait time is more than a year, and the price is around $2,000 (if choosing a vintage zipper).
- Eastman is very close in quality to Good Wear but is made in the UK. The price is significantly lower at roughly $1,600, and the wait time is around six weeks.
- Rainbow Country is regarded as one of the top three leather jacket makers in Japan. Their G-1 jackets are priced at $1,600, with a new release coming this December.

I’m currently leaning toward Rainbow Country, but I’d love to hear your thoughts on which option I should pursue for this exciting purchase.

Thank you!

 

[Aloysius]

I would not consider Rainbow Country for this at all, not just because of the price. They make some good stuff for sure, but the G-1 and its siblings are widely available and frankly luxe-ing them up would take away from much of what makes them great.

The only Japanese maker I would be happy to get a G-1 (or adjacent) jacket from is Buzz Rickson's, which places a lot of emphasis on making them wear like the originals. (The G-1 family of jackets has what is probably the best pattern in the history of leather jackets, so fashion-ing it up will compromise that.)

I would caution against getting a G-1 as a "warmer jacket for the winter" because warmth wise it's no different to the A-2; in other words, it's a leather windbreaker.

You're missing one big option from your list, and that is Dave Sheeley (Maverickson on this forum); like John Chapman of Good Wear, he is a one man flight jacket machine, except his specialty is G-1 (and its predecessor jackets), based on extensive knowledge and experience with originals. He even has some of the original machinery.

Contact him on the forum, because there's no need to go through eBay and have them take their cut.

Another option is Aero. I don't own one of theirs but I do own a WWII original that was refurbished by them and they did incredible work.

 

[handymike]

If you are open to previously owned jackets, you could look over at the Vintage Leather Jackets forum. They know a LOT about flight jackets.
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/forums/buy-sell.19/

Here's a beauty in 42:
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...er-flight-jacket-1968-size-42-mint-f-s.34621/

 

[El Marro]

Out of the three you mentioned I would choose the Eastman as I know for a fact they make a great G-1. I own the ELMC horsehide G-1 and it is a great jacket, very comparable to the originals I own in therms of cut and quality. The only complaint I have about the jacket is the knits, they began peeling almost immediately, and one of the wrist knits Tore after moderate wear. As annoying as that is, I am still very happy with the jacket and I will just have them replaced at some point in the future.
I agree with @Aloysius thst the G-1 is not a winter jacket, especially not for Minnesota winters. Yes, it has a Mouton for a collar, but the lining is rayon, which, if anything makes it cooler rather than warmer. And since this is a jacket that can (and should) be worn trim I don’t think it is worth sizing up so that you can layer a heavy sweater underneath it.

 

[cbez]

Rainbow Country or other japanese makers, especially used, will give you great value for the money. Is your priority a stitch for stitch repro from goats traced genetically to the same stock, or just the best jacket you can get?

I disagree with the idea that they are 'fashioned up' or 'luxed up' and somehow compromising the quality. Their military patterns are pretty loyal to the original designs.

The used market in japan is a little weaker for military stuff right now (rider/civilian themes are more trendy) and can be had for a great price.

 

[Aloysius]

Not all Japanese companies take a fashion/luxe approach but RC definitely does, modern RMC definitely does.

There's a reason the Eastman ones are perennial bestsellers over there.

 

[cbez]

Please elaborate on what fashion/luxe faults you see in this jacket then.

In what ways is an eastman built better? They also make 'fashion' decisions like making ahistorical horsehide models, etc.

El Marro just said his eastman ribs were disintegrating immediately.

 

[npthaiduong]

I would not consider Rainbow Country for this at all, not just because of the price. They make some good stuff for sure, but the G-1 and its siblings are widely available and frankly luxe-ing them up would take away from much of what makes them great.

The only Japanese maker I would be happy to get a G-1 (or adjacent) jacket from is Buzz Rickson's, which places a lot of emphasis on making them wear like the originals. (The G-1 family of jackets has what is probably the best pattern in the history of leather jackets, so fashion-ing it up will compromise that.)

I would caution against getting a G-1 as a "warmer jacket for the winter" because warmth wise it's no different to the A-2; in other words, it's a leather windbreaker.

You're missing one big option from your list, and that is Dave Sheeley (Maverickson on this forum); like John Chapman of Good Wear, he is a one man flight jacket machine, except his specialty is G-1 (and its predecessor jackets), based on extensive knowledge and experience with originals. He even has some of the original machinery.

Contact him on the forum, because there's no need to go through eBay and have them take their cut.

Another option is Aero. I don't own one of theirs but I do own a WWII original that was refurbished by them and they did incredible work.

Do you think I should go for the N-1 deck jacket if I need a warmer heritage jacket? I already got an A-2 deck jacket from Iron Heart.

 

[npthaiduong]

Rainbow Country or other japanese makers, especially used, will give you great value for the money. Is your priority a stitch for stitch repro from goats traced genetically to the same stock, or just the best jacket you can get?

I disagree with the idea that they are 'fashioned up' or 'luxed up' and somehow compromising the quality. Their military patterns are pretty loyal to the original designs.

The used market in japan is a little weaker for military stuff right now (rider/civilian themes are more trendy) and can be had for a great price.

View attachment 644460 View attachment 644461

Because I love Japanese craftsmanship in general, I just want to own an authentic, high quality, and well crafted leather jacket from the land. I will have an annual training in Yokosuka next year, so I may just use my liberty to visit the local stores over there.

 

[Jasonissm]

I would not consider Rainbow Country for this at all, not just because of the price. They make some good stuff for sure, but the G-1 and its siblings are widely available and frankly luxe-ing them up would take away from much of what makes them great.

The only Japanese maker I would be happy to get a G-1 (or adjacent) jacket from is Buzz Rickson's, which places a lot of emphasis on making them wear like the originals. (The G-1 family of jackets has what is probably the best pattern in the history of leather jackets, so fashion-ing it up will compromise that.)

I would caution against getting a G-1 as a "warmer jacket for the winter" because warmth wise it's no different to the A-2; in other words, it's a leather windbreaker.

You're missing one big option from your list, and that is Dave Sheeley (Maverickson on this forum); like John Chapman of Good Wear, he is a one man flight jacket machine, except his specialty is G-1 (and its predecessor jackets), based on extensive knowledge and experience with originals. He even has some of the original machinery.

Contact him on the forum, because there's no need to go through eBay and have them take their cut.

Another option is Aero. I don't own one of theirs but I do own a WWII original that was refurbished by them and they did incredible work.

Agreed on the warmth, it feels basically the exact same as an A-2 with the only difference being the mouton collar that you can pop and button for extra warmth. The lining is traditionally rayon I believe, either way, not an insulated quilted or woolen lining so it does not provide much warmth although you can layer with it and it still looks good. Not ideal if it gets really cold in your climate and you want a true winter only jacket.

I was surprised because when I got mine for some reason I saw the mouton and it registered as "winter jacket" in my head, but wearing it was a different experience.

 

[Bennarion]

If you don't care about the historical cut of the jacket. N1 from IH is the best that can be. In the G1 jacket, the mouton collar will warm only the neck

 

[Bennarion]

Rainbow Country or other japanese makers, especially used, will give you great value for the money. Is your priority a stitch for stitch repro from goats traced genetically to the same stock, or just the best jacket you can get?

I disagree with the idea that they are 'fashioned up' or 'luxed up' and somehow compromising the quality. Their military patterns are pretty loyal to the original designs.

The used market in japan is a little weaker for military stuff right now (rider/civilian themes are more trendy) and can be had for a great price.

View attachment 644460 View attachment 644461

I like these jackets. Good reproduction

 

[Aloysius]

Do you think I should go for the N-1 deck jacket if I need a warmer heritage jacket? I already got an A-2 deck jacket from Iron Heart.

Because I love Japanese craftsmanship in general, I just want to own an authentic, high quality, and well crafted leather jacket from the land. I will have an annual training in Yokosuka next year, so I may just use my liberty to visit the local stores over there.

If you don't want to go full fur jacket (which are not very versatile so I get that) I think an N-1 would be great. When it comes to Japanese companies, I like the special N-1s Buzz Rickson's made for HPA in New Jersey in blue and khaki.

 

[Peacoat]

If you don't want to go full fur jacket (which are not very versatile so I get that) I think an N-1 would be great. When it comes to Japanese companies, I like the special N-1s Buzz Rickson's made for HPA in New Jersey in blue and khaki.

Or originals in very good condition can be found. That's what I have. One of my best friends was in the Navy, and when his N-1 shrank from being from being exposed to closet air for too long, he gave it to me. Not nearly as nice looking as the G-1, but it is a warm jacket.

I have several G-1 jackets, and one fits just a bit loose–a current issue.. Paired with a sweater when it gets cold (below 40°), it is a warm jacket. But if you are looking for just a jacket to keep you warm, especially way up in the frozen northland, as others have said, the G-1 is not the jacket for you.

 

[Tom71]

I love my Eastman. Runs rather small, though. They have a size advisor on their website that I found helpful.
I do use my G1 (it’s an M422a, actually) as a winter jacket without issue. It’s not insulated, but layering does the trick for me.

I would consider The Real McCoys as well. I only have an A2 from them, but that one is tops.

 

[npthaiduong]

If you don't want to go full fur jacket (which are not very versatile so I get that) I think an N-1 would be great. When it comes to Japanese companies, I like the special N-1s Buzz Rickson's made for HPA in New Jersey in blue and khaki.

They look wonderful. Unfortunately, they are out of my size (36)

 

[El Marro]

I have two IH N-1’s and I love them. where I live they are warm enough or even the coldest night and they are very well made.

 

[npthaiduong]

I have two IH N-1’s and I love them. where I live they are warm enough or even the coldest night and they are very well made.

I have the IH A2 deck jacket and love it. All of my selvedge denim and khaki are from IH too

 

[cbez]

They look wonderful. Unfortunately, they are out of my size (36)

at that size you are a perfect candidate for second hand Japanese market

 

[theeprimitivesound]

I live in Alberta Canada, it gets a little chilly here over the long winters, N1 deck jacket is the only choice to keep you warm in the winter months.