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Advice needed - Akubra Federation IV

andrew_AU

A-List Customer
Messages
330
Location
Australia
I got my Moonstone Federation IV back from the milliner today. Thanks for all the suggestions. As many of you said, it looks great with a grey suit.

I think the slighy darker grey bound brim gives it a vintage, more formal look.

CA3D89ED-7AC2-4737-83E8-D0870609E6E9_zpsdhwiuuha.jpg


07A209EF-6A97-4ADC-833F-1CC7DC047004_zpszlvobvjc.jpg


94710DD7-DFDF-4CED-921E-45C2FDB48609_zpsy4dahixl.jpg
 

The Fedorable

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Califonria
Hey everyone! Been a while since I last showed my face around here. Figured if I needed questions answered, I'd come here.


So for the last four years (since 2014) I have worn exclusively an Akubra Federation IV standard. Fantastic hat. I love wearing it everywhere I go. Hiking? Fed IV. Rain? Fed IV. Hot Southern California summers? Fed IV. Amusement park, Fed IV. Etc etc, you get the picture. It's been smashed, crushed, bashed and to this day I still don't let up on it. It is my only hat that I wear.

What really drew me to the hat was the reputation of Akubra and that this was the best factory option for the price of getting a hat with similar characteristics of the Indiana Jones LC/CS hat. Tall, boxy, straight sided crown with a nice wide brim. However I've recently noticed that my hat has a slight taper now. I don't know how long it has been this taper has been around. Nothing really has changed other than that. Same center crease, same side dents and high tight pinch ala LC/CS but with an unintended Raiders turn. Now it has a taper like TOD.

What was once my hybrid of Raiders/LC/CS hat now is a hybrid of all 4 movies. Has anyone else seen tapering in their AF4 hats? I've read threads of guys who had theirs for a decade and their photos show no signs of tapering. Of course, this is the imperial one. I'm considering getting the Fed 4 Deluxe since the Heritage quality offering is the closest to beaver you can get with rabbit felt and is said to be less prone to distorting and tapering.
 

Just A Hat Rack

Practically Family
Messages
619
Location
Buckeye Nation
Hey everyone! Been a while since I last showed my face around here. Figured if I needed questions answered, I'd come here.


So for the last four years (since 2014) I have worn exclusively an Akubra Federation IV standard. Fantastic hat. I love wearing it everywhere I go. Hiking? Fed IV. Rain? Fed IV. Hot Southern California summers? Fed IV. Amusement park, Fed IV. Etc etc, you get the picture. It's been smashed, crushed, bashed and to this day I still don't let up on it. It is my only hat that I wear.

What really drew me to the hat was the reputation of Akubra and that this was the best factory option for the price of getting a hat with similar characteristics of the Indiana Jones LC/CS hat. Tall, boxy, straight sided crown with a nice wide brim. However I've recently noticed that my hat has a slight taper now. I don't know how long it has been this taper has been around. Nothing really has changed other than that. Same center crease, same side dents and high tight pinch ala LC/CS but with an unintended Raiders turn. Now it has a taper like TOD.

What was once my hybrid of Raiders/LC/CS hat now is a hybrid of all 4 movies. Has anyone else seen tapering in their AF4 hats? I've read threads of guys who had theirs for a decade and their photos show no signs of tapering. Of course, this is the imperial one. I'm considering getting the Fed 4 Deluxe since the Heritage quality offering is the closest to beaver you can get with rabbit felt and is said to be less prone to distorting and tapering.
I have an Akubra Lightning Ridge which is made from the Heritage quality felt. I've only had this hat for a short period of time, and have nothing else in the way of felt to compare it to. The felt is nice and of good quality. That being said, I've always thought that there were better quality felts out there seeing as the Heritage was made from rabbit. Not to take anything away from Akubras because they make quality hats that withstand the elements. They are a great hat to own, especially at the price. Many more expensive and higher quality felts can't take the beating an Akubra can. I wasn't aware that the Fed IV came in different qualities other than the Imperial, but I guess I'm not surprised by it either. I guess I will have to do some deeper digging into it because the Fed IV is very high on my list of being the next purchase. Good luck!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
It's hard to speak specifically to what may have happened to your hat, especially with no pictures.

But several thoughts come to mind. First and most obvious, consider a reblock. Check out this short video with Graham from Optimo...sure, some of it is trying to sell you on their hats, but the point here is that even a high quality felt will need a little TLC, especially if you have but one hat for daily wear.

Felt does have a tendency to tighten up slightly over time, especially with exposure to the elements and if it is "smashed, crushed, [and] bashed." Hence you will sometimes hear folks talk about "dead" felt. Akubras are durable, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they will show no signs of wear.

This part is more speculative, but Akubra has notably changed the source of their raw materials, importing more fur because the quality of domestic sources had been in decline. So it might be the case that even the venerable Akubra has dipped in quality. That article is also from 2014.
 

The Fedorable

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Califonria
It's hard to speak specifically to what may have happened to your hat, especially with no pictures.

But several thoughts come to mind. First and most obvious, consider a reblock. Check out this short video with Graham from Optimo...sure, some of it is trying to sell you on their hats, but the point here is that even a high quality felt will need a little TLC, especially if you have but one hat for daily wear.

Felt does have a tendency to tighten up slightly over time, especially with exposure to the elements and if it is "smashed, crushed, [and] bashed." Hence you will sometimes hear folks talk about "dead" felt. Akubras are durable, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they will show no signs of wear.

This part is more speculative, but Akubra has notably changed the source of their raw materials, importing more fur because the quality of domestic sources had been in decline. So it might be the case that even the venerable Akubra has dipped in quality. That article is also from 2014.


A reblock? I wonder if Akubra does reblocking. I emailed them yesterday asking about it and I'm still waiting on it. As far as pictures go, I'll try to get a few up soon.

Any other suggestions for reblocking my hat? Only other one I can think of is John Penman. Though I don't know what I should be keeping in mind since it's getting reblocked by someone who isn't the original manufacturer.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
A reblock? I wonder if Akubra does reblocking. I emailed them yesterday asking about it and I'm still waiting on it. As far as pictures go, I'll try to get a few up soon.

Any other suggestions for reblocking my hat? Only other one I can think of is John Penman. Though I don't know what I should be keeping in mind since it's getting reblocked by someone who isn't the original manufacturer.

in SoCal your closest options would be Baron Hats or Wellema Hats. Gunner Foxx is in your region too, but I don't know if he does reblock work. Otherwise, Art Fawcett or Northwest Hats.
 

The Fedorable

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Califonria
in SoCal your closest options would be Baron Hats or Wellema Hats. Gunner Foxx is in your region too, but I don't know if he does reblock work. Otherwise, Art Fawcett or Northwest Hats.

Sounds about right, though I they sound like they are roughly 3 hours away from me. I live in Norther Santa Barbara County, just south of Nipomo.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Hey everyone! Been a while since I last showed my face around here. Figured if I needed questions answered, I'd come here.


So for the last four years (since 2014) I have worn exclusively an Akubra Federation IV standard. Fantastic hat. I love wearing it everywhere I go. Hiking? Fed IV. Rain? Fed IV. Hot Southern California summers? Fed IV. Amusement park, Fed IV. Etc etc, you get the picture. It's been smashed, crushed, bashed and to this day I still don't let up on it. It is my only hat that I wear.

What really drew me to the hat was the reputation of Akubra and that this was the best factory option for the price of getting a hat with similar characteristics of the Indiana Jones LC/CS hat. Tall, boxy, straight sided crown with a nice wide brim. However I've recently noticed that my hat has a slight taper now. I don't know how long it has been this taper has been around. Nothing really has changed other than that. Same center crease, same side dents and high tight pinch ala LC/CS but with an unintended Raiders turn. Now it has a taper like TOD.

What was once my hybrid of Raiders/LC/CS hat now is a hybrid of all 4 movies. Has anyone else seen tapering in their AF4 hats? I've read threads of guys who had theirs for a decade and their photos show no signs of tapering. Of course, this is the imperial one. I'm considering getting the Fed 4 Deluxe since the Heritage quality offering is the closest to beaver you can get with rabbit felt and is said to be less prone to distorting and tapering.

My brown Fed IV has been a go-to since 2009. Like many others here, it's been through the mill.

A few years ago I also noticed some taper. My solution was initially a spray down and reshaping. Wasn't entirely happy win it.

Eventually I decided to steam a diamond crease into it to widen the crown. Then I lowered the front pinch to 4 1/4", the rear to 4", and added some severe side pinch creases which effectively gave the top of the hat that mushroom look so desired by Raiders fans who covet the Streets of Cairo look.

Then I did the same mods to my Carbon Gray and Tawny Fawn Fed IVs, as well as my brown Adventurebilt Henry, and my brand new-to-me gray hand made Adventurebilt.

The Henry could use a reblock, but for now it's fine.

I'm going to make a casting of one of my straight sided blocks, especially for the Henry. I want the block a certain height for this particular application. I'll try the reblock myself before eventually sending it off to John Penman. haha
 

Willybob

A-List Customer
Messages
372
I have a few Akubras. I find that Heritage felt will shrink about the same as Imperial under most wet weather conditions. If you experience taper from shrinkage, the only option is to re stretch the shrunk felt. The best method involves removal of the sweat and ribbon. If you're not up to this, a hatter is you best option. I use a plastic Hatshaper. See pics
 

The Fedorable

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Califonria
My brown Fed IV has been a go-to since 2009. Like many others here, it's been through the mill.

A few years ago I also noticed some taper. My solution was initially a spray down and reshaping. Wasn't entirely happy win it.

Eventually I decided to steam a diamond crease into it to widen the crown. Then I lowered the front pinch to 4 1/4", the rear to 4", and added some severe side pinch creases which effectively gave the top of the hat that mushroom look so desired by Raiders fans who covet the Streets of Cairo look.

Then I did the same mods to my Carbon Gray and Tawny Fawn Fed IVs, as well as my brown Adventurebilt Henry, and my brand new-to-me gray hand made Adventurebilt.

The Henry could use a reblock, but for now it's fine.

I'm going to make a casting of one of my straight sided blocks, especially for the Henry. I want the block a certain height for this particular application. I'll try the reblock myself before eventually sending it off to John Penman. haha

That is something I have considered doing, but I've grown to love the center dent with this hat. Wouldn't have it any other way, honestly. I have a C-Crown wool felt hat that is nice, but I didn't like the crease as much as I do with center creases.
 

The Fedorable

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Califonria
http://www.hatshapers.com/

http://www.hatshapers.com/Product Pages/Straight_Sided_Dome.htm

just make sure you flip the sweatband down or you will get a ridge around the hat where the sweatband ends.
Alternatively you can use a round tube/bowl/something. My kids have a Lincoln logs tube that is the same diameter as my head so I stretch my hats over that.


Johnny


Thing is, the hat was ordered as a 58. It fit me fine 4 years ago. Always had an issue with it sliding off my head when looking down for a couple of years. Now I measure my head after 4 years because I am looking at ordering from Thomas of Advintage (and eventually from Penman) only to find that I'm 23in pulled snug or 23.5in with a bit of give (but still feeling snug) So that's 58.5 and about 60 centimeters. Oof.

Where do I go from here in regards to the hat block size or stretcher size to stretch out the hat?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
Thing is, the hat was ordered as a 58. It fit me fine 4 years ago. Always had an issue with it sliding off my head when looking down for a couple of years. Now I measure my head after 4 years because I am looking at ordering from Thomas of Advintage (and eventually from Penman) only to find that I'm 23in pulled snug or 23.5in with a bit of give (but still feeling snug) So that's 58.5 and about 60 centimeters. Oof.

Where do I go from here in regards to the hat block size or stretcher size to stretch out the hat?

If you're not going to remove the sweatband, get a block or shaper that is one size below. If you are going to remove the sweatband, go the next size up.

Going by Akubra's sizing chart, they say their 58 is equivalent to a US 7 1/4. So you are looking for a 7 1/8 block if you're not going to remove the sweat, 7 3/8 if you are.
 

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