A-1 Jacket / A1 Flying Jacket - The ultimate Golden Era flying accessory!

[Harris]

Oipolloi.com has a current sale on ELC A-1 jackets (size 42 and 44). 20% off.

http://www.oipolloi.com/eastman-leather-clothing-us-a1-leather-jacket--time-worn-capeskin-brown#

The promo code is NEARLYFREE. May only apply to previously discounted items. Worth a look.

Joel, thank you for the link. I just found this board, and the jacket is now sold out in the smaller sizes.

But I am now thinking about buying it a full price. As I haven't owned any leather bomber before, I was wondering if you guys know how this Eastman A-1 fits and could give me a sizing hint. The look I want to go for is definitely very fitted, or "snug" as on the picture on the bottom, as opposed to the bulgy fit on the other picture.
Should I size down for this ELC A-1? My usual size in (casual) Jackets is 40 (39" chest), and I'm 6.1 at 160lbs (quite a slender built). To have a really snug fit, is sizing down to 38 recommended?

I don't live anywhere near a store where I could try on the jacket myself, so I'll have to shop online, and any help will be highly appreciated.

If this jacket isn't really suitable for a fitted, fashionable look, please let me know and I'll stop bothering you ;-)

Harris

What it shouldn't fit like

What I want it to fit like

 

[Dr H]

Hi Harris
The ELC A-1 is comparatively trim fitting, but it tends to fit with size. If you're a 40" in a 'normal' jacket then a 40" should be fine in the ELC A-1 - I wouldn't go down a size. If you find it's not trim enough then a little hot water treatment will pull it in (in any areas that you feel are slack).
Given your height, the question is really whether to go for the normal length or the long and I'd suggest that you e-mail Eastman directly (http://www.eastmanleather.com/) for advice.
Don't worry, it's an ideal jacket for a fitted, fashionable look - more so than the A-2.
Cheers
Ian

 

[Sir Jacket]

Not sure what I think of the "time-worn" idea. I think I think it's cheating.

SJ

 

[Dr H]

It doesn't need the 'Time Worn' effect - the capeskin wears in quickly with use.

 

[Sir Jacket]

That's what I thought. ELC doesn't send A-1s without it.

SJ

 

[Dr H]

I didn't realise that was the case - I thought that Eastman could supply both if you order direct from them - the timeworn effect is an option rather than the norm.

The basic version is shown here:
http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_info.php?products_id=162

The 0.50 Cal (which I don't like at all) is shown here:
http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_info.php?products_id=244

They also supply both forms commercially to other suppliers (see below YMC)

http://www.youmustcreate.com/produc...hers/ymc-x-eastman-leathers-a1-bomber-jacket/
http://www.youmustcreate.com/produc...c-x-eastman-leathers-a1-bomber-jacket-washed/

 

[Sir Jacket]

Oh right. I didn't see that. Hm, I don't like the goatskin, either. I believe I've seen the timeworn at YMC in Brick Lane.

SJ

 

[John Lever]

That's what I thought. ELC doesn't send A-1s without it.

SJ

No it's in the Original Makers section-
http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_info.php?products_id=162

 

[feltfan]

Interesting. That jacket appears to have snaps all the way up, not buttons.
Like a letterman...

Very nice.

And Flashman, here's a good zippered A-1 style jacket, worn by a man...

http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/NGrooters/clementsmcmullen6.jpg


Found oun Vintage Leather Jackets. Can't wait to get mine!
Clint

 

[Harris]

Oh right. I didn't see that. Hm, I don't like the goatskin, either. I believe I've seen the timeworn at YMC in Brick Lane.
SJ

Hey guys, thank you for all the input! And to answer Sir Jacket, yes, the jacket I am considering to purchase is actually the YMC one. As you have seen it in person, could you give me some more info? Would you say this is a "fashion-y" leather jacket? On their website, YMC describes it as very light and suitable for summer, would you say that's correct? I think I would rather like a softer, lighter leather that doesn't balloon out too much so this might be just right for me. Also, the color on the Eastman product page John Lever linked to is so much lighter than on the pictures from Oi Polloi or YMC. As you've seen the actual color, would you say the picture below is accurately showing the color or is the jacket that much lighter in color as on the Eastman picture?

As for sizing, I am still very unsure. I have contacted YMC with my measurements and they just shot me a one line e-mail back saying "Size 40 is roomy so it's fine for you", and further inquiries for exact measurements weren't answered. I suppose this YMC jacket is the same model as the one Oi Polloi had on offer. On the Oi Polloi site, they have the actual measurements for the different sizes, which are:

Size 40
Pit to Pit: 20.25
Back: 24.25
Arms: 20.5
Shoulders: 16.5

Size: 42
Pit to Pit: 22.5
Back: 26.25
Arms: 20.5
Shoulders: 18.0

Size 40 is very short in the body, and has very narrow shoulders at only 16.5 inches. My shoulder size is more like 17.5 - 18 - would too narrow shoulders be a problem for a leather bomber? And size 42 is very roomy in the chest at 22.5 inches, while the other measurements look fine. But then again, who knows if the YMC sizing is actually the same as the Oi Polloi one...sigh.
It seems that size 40 in this jacket usually translates to Small, and 42 to Medium. I've never owned a "Small" jacket, and with other brands, 40 is definitely "Medium"...which is my usual size.

I think I'm simply operating with too many unknown variables here. The problem is that I currently live in Japan and if I get the size wrong it will be a very costly mistake. That's why I'm bothering you guys for more info.

Harris

Seal brown capeskin time-worn from Mr Mudd and Mr Gold

 

[Dr H]

I contacted Gary Eastman about the colour last year. The YMC jackets do differ from each other in colour (in the two links that I posted) and the colour is darker than the 'house' ELC A-1.
The leather is soft and supple, but substantial and does not balloon. It is a very useful summer jacket unless the temperature really rises it's practically useful for longer in the year than heavier hides, even in higher humidity such as Japan.
Cheers
Ian

 

[Dr H]

Additionally, it works best if the shoulders fit well and squarely as it is trimmer in the shoulders than the A-2. It also works better with a slightly longer torso. So, if you fall between measurements, I'd go for a slightly roomier chest than tighter shoulders and a shorter jacket.
Good luck! A good choice.

 

[Harris]

Additionally, it works best if the shoulders fit well and squarely as it is trimmer in the shoulders than the A-2. It also works better with a slightly longer torso. So, if you fall between measurements, I'd go for a slightly roomier chest than tighter shoulders and a shorter jacket.
Good luck! A good choice.

Hi Ian, thank you for the info - you are probably right, I should be able to wear at least a light sweater under it to make it more useful, and I see the model's shoulders on the YMC website also don't fill the jacket.
The jacket has all the features that I wanted - darker color, lighter, soft leather, and the fitted look. I have inquired to YMC once again about measurements, because after all I can't be sure if their size 40 is the same as Oi Polloi's size 40 or if they did some conversion on their own to match their other clothing. Also, the one line e-mail I got back from them said "Size 40 is roomy and fine for you", which would point to their sizes having been converted.

As for Japan, the humidity is in fact mind-boggling over here. I will probably not be able to wear this jacket at all from May to October, when humans are basically turning from solid to liquid in Japan ;-) Hopefully I can go back in June and July to catch some Euro 2012 action without having to get up in the middle of the night ;-)

 

[Dr H]

You're welcome Harris.
I tend to have just enough room to wear a thin sleeveless vest/tank top underneath if it turns cooler, but no more than that as it looks best as a trim, fitted jacket. The image in my avatar is a good guide for the ideal fit, I feel.
You're right to check, but as Eastman supplied both Oi Polloi and YMC I imagine that they'll simply go by the tagged label on the liner.
The darker hide looks good to my eye - even the lighter stock colour will darken a little with wear, particularly on the high points where it's abraided.
I'm somewhat biased, being an enthusiast for the pattern and having bought/sold on 5 over the years (and with another now on order with Good Wear), but it's my 'go to' jacket for work and leisure for most of the year.
I agree re. the humidity - I wore a wartime goatskin Perry 23377 A-2 to Japan several years ago in June (and doggedly wore it as I'd packed it) thinking that the thinner hide would be fine for some of the time, but it was a struggle... :-(

 

[Harris]

I tend to have just enough room to wear a thin sleeveless vest/tank top underneath if it turns cooler, but no more than that as it looks best as a trim, fitted jacket. The image in my avatar is a good guide for the ideal fit, I feel.

Yes - that's the fit I'm trying to achieve. You are right, the jacket is not exceptionally short. I just did some measuring, and at 24.25 length (Oi Polloi's 40), the woolen cuff would cover my belt and end up above the pockets of my jeans (mid rise). I think that's too short and makes it a bit uncomfortable to wear as I see myself constantly trying to pull it down when moving about. Maybe I should go for 42 after all, even though that chest width of 22.25 just seems too big. Anyway, I will report back when I get the measurements from YMC.

 

[Sir Jacket]

Harris, I can't remember that clearly, I'm afraid, but I will be back around there in the next few days and will have another look. The Oi Polloi version does look pretty nice, after all. My advice: don't even consider buying the jacket until the maker has entirely satisfied all your inquiries re size. The jacket should be perfect but getting size right isn't easy. Don't forget, you can get these custom-made. SJ

 

[Harris]

Harris, I can't remember that clearly, I'm afraid, but I will be back around there in the next few days and will have another look.

That sounds great.
You are right about not buying before getting the needed info. I'm a bit disappointed by their lack of communication.
Now, I don't know what size you are, but when you're there, could you possibly try on the sizes they have there, or even get measurements for M and L? My confusion is really that their size Small is given as "40 inches", and is supposedly "roomy" as they told me, but I have no info about the length. That would be awesome.

Harris

 

[Dr H]

Harris
Don't forget that ELC offer a 40 long (which Oi Polloi/YMC may carry), which would address the torso length without compromising the chest width.
Just a thought...
Cheers
Ian

 

[Harris]

Harris
Don't forget that ELC offer a 40 long (which Oi Polloi/YMC may carry), which would address the torso length without compromising the chest width.
Just a thought...
Cheers
Ian

I just got back the measurements from YMC, and unfortunately the Small size is sold out (although their online shop shows "in stock").

Anyway, the 42 (Medium) size seems quite roomy, but very short according to these measurements.

Shoulder to shoulder: 18 inches
Pit to Pit: 22.5 inches
Body length incl. cuff: 23.5 inches
Arm: 20.5 inches

My best fitting jackets all have around 18 inch shoulders, but only 21 inches pit to pit. Do you guys reckon that 22.5 pit to pit will be really bulky for me, thereby making a fitted look impossible? It seems like a length of 23.5 inches is already quite short, so sizing down to Small would have been impossible anyway.

The fit on this guy doesn't look too bad. The shoulders are actually hanging a little, and the length looks fine as well. Maybe I'll just take the plunge and try 42.

 

[Dr H]

I've had an ELC A-1 in a 42 in the past (bought through FL) and it wasn't blousy at all, simply that I wear a 44, which is more comfortable for me.
I think that you'll be fine with those dimensions.