5* 1950’s All Weather Half belt repro seal brown goat

[Claybertrand]

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Is this measuring tool measuring thickness??? I'm curious about the thickness of the HH....... especially in comparison to the Seal Goat. Also, which of the Goat hides are the "Premium Goat"????? I assume the thickest one---perhaps the Seal.

You've opened Pandora's Box now brother!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for organizing this and getting some good common questions answered. A lot easier for Shawn if we can get answers here instead of pelting him with 50 emails asking the same things I would think.

 

[RILO]

At 1.5mm I sure hope so

 

[RILO]

But I just ask him let’s see

 

[Seb Lucas]

Is this measuring tool measuring thickness??? I'm curious about the thickness of the HH....... especially in comparison to the Seal Goat. Also, which of the Goat hides are the "Premium Goat"????? I assume the thickest one---perhaps the Seal.

You've opened Pandora's Box now brother!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for organizing this and getting some good common questions answered. A lot easier for Shawn if we can get answers here instead of pelting him with 50 emails asking the same things I would think.

Most goat I have seen outside of this maker is 2.5oz. What matters more than the thickness, is the quality of the hide which is often a result of the treatment/tanning process. The Five Star goat hide i have (2 jackets) had was around 3oz thick and too spongy and lifeless for my taste. Thickness and quality will vary from batch to batch.

 

[Claybertrand]

Most goat I have seen outside of this maker is 2.5oz. What matters more than the thickness, is the quality of the hide which is often a result of the treatment/tanning process. The Five Star goat hide i have (2 jackets) had was around 3oz thick and too spongy and lifeless for my taste. Thickness and quality will vary from batch to batch.

Did you get the Premium Goat that Ton got on his All Weather???? It appears to be decent hide.

 

[ton312]

I’d agree with seb about it being spongy but I really like it! It won’t patina or fade or wear. I suspect it will always look new in terms of the color. I’m really dying to see how the red russet goat I have incoming compared. Update tomorrow. Hopefully!

 

[Claybertrand]

At 1.5mm I sure hope so
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I realize that thickness is not the end all be all of hide quality or even any kind of accurate indicator of it. Still it is interesting to me that the Buffalo is much closer in thickness to the apparently non premium Goat than to the Cow.

 

[Claybertrand]

View attachment 279551 View attachment 279552 View attachment 279553 Here are a couple pictures of the final distressed sleeves . They went through many trials until I would tell Shawn this is it - so this is it . But they truly wouldn’t Stop experimenting with distress till I was satisfied. Super service there

I like how this turned out --- at least -- from the pics. Your cuffs are great. Did you come up with the details on the inner cuffs?? Is that suede on the inner cuff?? I am interested in getting vintage style button cuffs similar to what you had done here. Can you report on the quality of the buttons and button hole stitching??? Does the assembly feel sturdy???

 

[RILO]

I realize that thickness is not the end all be all of hide quality or even any kind of accurate indicator of it. Still it is interesting to me that the Buffalo is much closer in thickness to the apparently non premium Goat than to the Cow.

Here is a link that perhaps can broaden the horizons. https://jacksonwayne.com/pages/how-is-leather-thickness-measured-by-weight-in-ounces

 

[Seb Lucas]

Did you get the Premium Goat that Ton got on his All Weather???? It appears to be decent hide.

Yes I did.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I’d agree with seb about it being spongy but I really like it! It won’t patina or fade or wear. I suspect it will always look new in terms of the color. I’m really dying to see how the red russet goat I have incoming compared. Update tomorrow. Hopefully!

Interesting, my black hide faded in the few weeks I had it and the brown jacket top coat was coming off in places leaving a cream base.

 

[RILO]

Interesting, my black hide faded in the few weeks I had it and the brown jacket top coat was coming off in places leaving a cream base.

Interesting the Sapphire Renovateur clines the pigment and Obenauf’s enhanced it...

 

[ton312]

Interesting, my black hide faded in the few weeks I had it and the brown jacket top coat was coming off in places leaving a cream base.

That’s interesting indeed. The seal brown doesn’t feel like it’ll lose any color from the topcoat. If I didn’t know better I would assume it’s dyed straight through. That’s all I have to go on as of today. The next jacket is quite different in terms of color. I’m still not sure what the color actually is. I have dozens of photos from Shawn and none of them look to be the same hide.

 

[CBI]

great pics of the samples - i'm sure pretty helpful for people considering a 5-Star. My fave is a russet cowhide of what you have shown in photos

 

[RILO]

great pics of the samples - i'm sure pretty helpful for people considering a 5-Star. My fave is a russet cowhide of what you have shown in photos

@CBI I thank you!!

 

[Seb Lucas]

That’s interesting indeed. The seal brown doesn’t feel like it’ll lose any color from the topcoat. If I didn’t know better I would assume it’s dyed straight through. That’s all I have to go on as of today. The next jacket is quite different in terms of color. I’m still not sure what the color actually is. I have dozens of photos from Shawn and none of them look to be the same hide.

I wonder if the answer to this may be that Shawn has several small family businesses that supply him with goat. Each one a little different.

 

[RILO]

I wonder if the answer to this may be that Shawn has several small family businesses that supply him with goat. Each one a little different.

You are not far from the truth, it’s the way it works.

 

[Bahabp100]

The animals bought and sacrificed for Eid are bread for beauty and size, which ends up meaning that the hides are of a greater size and quality, both of which are desirable for leather production.
“The quality of the sacrificial hides is much better than the hides purchased in routine days. For example, the size of a goat’s hide purchased all year round is 4 to 4.5 square feet, while the size of a sacrificial goat’s hide ranges from 8 to 12 square feet” Afzal Hussain explains. “Similarly, in the case of cow hide, the size of the hide purchased in routine days is 25 to 27 square feet, while the size of the sacrificial animal ranges from 40 to 50 square feet.” https://profit.pakistantoday.com.pk...leather-industry-braces-itself-for-the-worst/

 

[Bahabp100]

I like how this turned out --- at least -- from the pics. Your cuffs are great. Did you come up with the details on the inner cuffs?? Is that suede on the inner cuff?? I am interested in getting vintage style button cuffs similar to what you had done here. Can you report on the quality of the buttons and button hole stitching??? Does the assembly feel sturdy???

yes that is my personal golden suede concept - inside the cuffs and collar AND pockets. I always liked the idea of contrasting flip cuffs on shirts and I thought I would give it a try here, cause I was looking at a golden suede trucker and the suede looked nice so why not try it on a custom jacket. The pockets on my Schott 257s B-3 are made out of suede so, why not try it here? Corduroy was possibility as well. I didn’t ask him about tartan or blanket lining, but I’m guessing he has some. The buttons, They are his premium horn bottom. I’ll let you know when they arrive but in my leather trucker the button holes were serviceable but I did replace the buttons. See 5* trucker replacement buttons thread. The leather and linings and threads, trims, notions and findings, (I used to be a Garmento myself in the NYC 90s - mainly a button and buckle guy in a subsidiary of a larger belt company)
Are only limited by your imagination. I feel that Shawn seems up for the challenge, “I love the challenging tasks and the creative people like you, If I didn’t bother working with you, I wouldn’t get a chance to boost my level of service.” 11/11/20
His level of service, which is Second to NONE!!!!

 

[Will Zach]

Most goat I have seen outside of this maker is 2.5oz. What matters more than the thickness, is the quality of the hide which is often a result of the treatment/tanning process. The Five Star goat hide i have (2 jackets) had was around 3oz thick and too spongy and lifeless for my taste. Thickness and quality will vary from batch to batch.

I spent $25 and ordered ALL available leather samples from Shawn, including premium goat. All were spongy. Shearling was very light and flimsy. I will not be ordering from 5*.